Turbo coolant pipes bite the dust
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 733
Likes: 64
From: USA
09E350, 07E63, 13CLS63
Sorry to revive this thread from the dead but what are these 3 coolant pipes called? Know the part numbers for them?
I have a 2012 S550 with 125k miles and GREEN circled hose is leaking. I figured I should replace them all.
I read here to replace the water pump as well since I'll be getting this thing replaced. Is it necessary to also replace the thermostat too then?
Thank you!
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 27
Likes: 10
From: Pennsylvania
13 S550 4MATIC, 14 S63
Hey my M157 just began leaking from the green one too... actually more like pissing lol! Glad it decided to go sitting in the driveway when I turned it on rather than at work or something. Started pulling stuff off tonight. Should be fun
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
S550
They are turbo coolant lines. See the attached part info on M157. Did you replace those lines? I am in the middle of removing the oil filter housing and the green and orange lines are on the way and block access to a crew behind those. I already removed the 2 bolts which hold the lines but they are not flex enough to put away so I can reach the oil filter housing screw. How did you remove those lines?
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
S550
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
2013 E550 - AMP+MPP packages
When I had 1 of the line done 4 years ago, the local shop charged me about 1200 CAD (roughly 950$usd). The turbo coolant hose snapped while doing basic work and part of the taper plastic stayed stuck inside the engine. I didn't get the other done at that time since I thought it was pretty high cost for the work.
Few months later as I changed the belt, I barely touched the other line and it cracked. Decided to do it myself. It was, honestly, a damn pain to do for some diy without deep knowledge of MB mecanic. Getting to remove everything you need to access it is laborious. I recall having a hard time unscrewing/tightening back the clamp on the turbo intake, passenger side. Had to cut a (8mm?) socket shorter for it to get in place, and couldn't use a ratchet on it because even my smallest 1/4 drive was too large to fit. Ended up using visegrip to lower the socket in that small space, fit it in and then do 1/30th of a turn, unlock the visegrip, move them, lock them back, turn 1/30th of a turn, etc. Felt like an eternity and surely took 3hr only for that part 🤣🤣🤣
Overall, if memory doesn't play tricks on me, it took me almost 2 full days! I did change the turbo oil intercooler as it was leaking as well (think that's the name of the part recessed im the motor, under the thermostat).
Not a job I'd recommend unless you got patience and some knowledge. It was over my skills/tools and barely got it done, even with MB azra.
Few months later as I changed the belt, I barely touched the other line and it cracked. Decided to do it myself. It was, honestly, a damn pain to do for some diy without deep knowledge of MB mecanic. Getting to remove everything you need to access it is laborious. I recall having a hard time unscrewing/tightening back the clamp on the turbo intake, passenger side. Had to cut a (8mm?) socket shorter for it to get in place, and couldn't use a ratchet on it because even my smallest 1/4 drive was too large to fit. Ended up using visegrip to lower the socket in that small space, fit it in and then do 1/30th of a turn, unlock the visegrip, move them, lock them back, turn 1/30th of a turn, etc. Felt like an eternity and surely took 3hr only for that part 🤣🤣🤣
Overall, if memory doesn't play tricks on me, it took me almost 2 full days! I did change the turbo oil intercooler as it was leaking as well (think that's the name of the part recessed im the motor, under the thermostat).
Not a job I'd recommend unless you got patience and some knowledge. It was over my skills/tools and barely got it done, even with MB azra.
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 733
Likes: 64
From: USA
09E350, 07E63, 13CLS63
It's difficult but doable. Be patient, it's time consuming. If you have an alternative drive, it will give you more time to get it done. 5k for this job is way too much. I'm not techie at all but I managed to get the job done myself. Ask this forum if you need help. That's what I did.
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Super Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 681
Likes: 405
From: FL
2012 E550 sedan 2019 E63 Wagon
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 73
Likes: 26
From: Las Vegas
'14 E63S, '00 E430, '07 C230
I just recently had mine done at the beginning of August, right as the car hit 80k miles the hose started leaking profusely so I took it in.
During my PPI last year, they noticed that there was dried coolant around one of the lines and warned me about it, since it wasn't actively leaking, I just kept an eye on it and it held up for an additional 10k miles.
I had my work done at the dealership here in Vegas and was only charged $1700 with labor for all the lines to be replaced.
Earlier this year, I had my rear heater hose done for roughly $500 by a local Mercedes specialist.
During my PPI last year, they noticed that there was dried coolant around one of the lines and warned me about it, since it wasn't actively leaking, I just kept an eye on it and it held up for an additional 10k miles.
I had my work done at the dealership here in Vegas and was only charged $1700 with labor for all the lines to be replaced.
Earlier this year, I had my rear heater hose done for roughly $500 by a local Mercedes specialist.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 35
Likes: 10
2015 E63s S212
In the attached PDF, there are lots of substitution part numbers for these. Are there any data about the substitution part numbers as to when they were implemented and if they help prevent the problems associated with these coolant pipes in later model years? I have a 2015 E63s and wondering if they, too, are plagued with the same problem.
Last edited by mweber88; Sep 5, 2022 at 12:04 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 22
Likes: 4
R231 / C207/ x166/ W213
Hey,
Working on the driver side coolant lines, shallow 8 mm ujoint socket or a shallow joint e10 ujoint socket will loosen all the little hard to get fasteners, At the turbo you need ot apply some force, they are simply not going to pop out easy. Large pry bar did the top one , lower one needed something kind of wedged behind it (screw driver) and the aforementioned prybar. I was fixing a cam magnet sensor and the oil filter housing needed to come off, this is when these fittings broke. clearly not design to last but car is 10 years old and has113 k (C207). Tomorrow i will be "threading" the new lines in ,should be exciting. If these were steel or aluminum they would probably be lifetime items with an occasional oring change.
Any one has a good suggestion for the threading of the new lines? it is supertight!
Working on the driver side coolant lines, shallow 8 mm ujoint socket or a shallow joint e10 ujoint socket will loosen all the little hard to get fasteners, At the turbo you need ot apply some force, they are simply not going to pop out easy. Large pry bar did the top one , lower one needed something kind of wedged behind it (screw driver) and the aforementioned prybar. I was fixing a cam magnet sensor and the oil filter housing needed to come off, this is when these fittings broke. clearly not design to last but car is 10 years old and has113 k (C207). Tomorrow i will be "threading" the new lines in ,should be exciting. If these were steel or aluminum they would probably be lifetime items with an occasional oring change.
Any one has a good suggestion for the threading of the new lines? it is supertight!
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 733
Likes: 64
From: USA
09E350, 07E63, 13CLS63
Hey,
Working on the driver side coolant lines, shallow 8 mm ujoint socket or a shallow joint e10 ujoint socket will loosen all the little hard to get fasteners, At the turbo you need ot apply some force, they are simply not going to pop out easy. Large pry bar did the top one , lower one needed something kind of wedged behind it (screw driver) and the aforementioned prybar. I was fixing a cam magnet sensor and the oil filter housing needed to come off, this is when these fittings broke. clearly not design to last but car is 10 years old and has113 k (C207). Tomorrow i will be "threading" the new lines in ,should be exciting. If these were steel or aluminum they would probably be lifetime items with an occasional oring change.
Any one has a good suggestion for the threading of the new lines? it is supertight!
Working on the driver side coolant lines, shallow 8 mm ujoint socket or a shallow joint e10 ujoint socket will loosen all the little hard to get fasteners, At the turbo you need ot apply some force, they are simply not going to pop out easy. Large pry bar did the top one , lower one needed something kind of wedged behind it (screw driver) and the aforementioned prybar. I was fixing a cam magnet sensor and the oil filter housing needed to come off, this is when these fittings broke. clearly not design to last but car is 10 years old and has113 k (C207). Tomorrow i will be "threading" the new lines in ,should be exciting. If these were steel or aluminum they would probably be lifetime items with an occasional oring change.
Any one has a good suggestion for the threading of the new lines? it is supertight!
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 22
Likes: 4
R231 / C207/ x166/ W213
Sounds like you got everything out smoothly. Lots of us had the turbo lines broken while replacing the magnet sensors. It's a nightmare for me but felt really good after it's done. Take pictures so you can remember where things are, some little thing you may forget. To insert the turbo lines, do it from the front, below all other line, you will need the prybar to enforce the 2 lines into the turbo. Good luck.
the pry bar tip. I would not call the removal smooth lol
