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2012 E63 AMG with 135k miles.
This morning I took my sons to school, dropped them off, heading to the store to pick up some stuff, and I noticed there are white smoke behind me. I just though may be it’s a cold day. Come to a stop and see the white smoke pouring out the engine bay, at the same time the check coolant message pop up. Pulled the car into the parking lot, turn off the engine, pop the hood, and coolant splatters at the back of the engine on the driver side. The exhaust tips are dry, coolant covered the undercarriage. Tow the car home.
The coolant reservoir is bone dry, the engine was still warming up at 180 degree. Oil level normal, smelled and looked normal too. So my question is, could it be the intercooler failure? Anyone here experienced an intercooler failure on the flatform?
Its 40 degrees outside and I’m not ready to tear into the car yet. We’ll find out in couple days.
Last edited by Forrest Gump 9; 12-03-2018 at 11:47 AM.
'03 E55, Range Rover Sport Supercharged, Ducati 748R
At the back of the engine is probably your heater hose, or to be more precise, the plastic coupling that the hose connects to. Simple fix just a pain to get to. Why MB thinks it’s ok to use plastic coolant parts is one of the dumbest things I’ve come across so far.
I agree, sound like hose connection in back. Damn plastic crap, As Chiromikey said. Good luck and hope it is an easy fix for ya. Pull all the air boxes off, so you can see the source.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
You both nailed it on the head, the plastic coupling in the back of the driver side head. I really don’t know how to get to it except removing the intercooler.
Well, believe it or not, the ten bolts (5 on each side) are all you need to get the ic/intake manifold off. Just a little persuasion with the rubber mallet and the whole thing will come loose. It’ll take a little more persuasion to get them out but it doable and I did it. There are also two air hoses in the back lower intake manifold needed to disconnect, squeeze the sides and pull off. And here’s the culprit
here’s how it supposed to be
and here’s how I found it, wonder where all the coolant went
here’s a little bonus I found when I remove the intake manifold
That’s the product of the mighty direct injection. I run seafoam thru the intake once a year, I guess time to step it up to once every three months.
Last edited by Forrest Gump 9; 12-04-2018 at 11:53 PM.
The part number is A2782000831. And it call the shut off valve. So far I can only find it in foreign catalog. I’ll call up my trusty part guy tomorrow and find out. When I get it in I’ll make sure I’ll slather a generous lay of JB weld around when it snapped off.
the interesting thing about the valve is it looks like there’s a place to plug in. But it’s not plugged in my car. And when I actually looked into the plug, there’s no metal contacts. May be it’s just a dummy plug?
I am also curious about more feedback on having walnut blasting (carbon cleaning) done on these cars. I had my car hydrocarbon cleaned but didnt necessarily notice a massive difference. My car has about half the miles yours does though.
The part number is A2782000831. And it call the shut off valve. So far I can only find it in foreign catalog. I’ll call up my trusty part guy tomorrow and find out. When I get it in I’ll make sure I’ll slather a generous lay of JB weld around when it snapped off.
the interesting thing about the valve is it looks like there’s a place to plug in. But it’s not plugged in my car. And when I actually looked into the plug, there’s no metal contacts. May be it’s just a dummy plug?
i need the same part. Where did you get your replacement?
Mercedes is telling me they changed the part to 278-200-21-51 but it doesn’t look right.
i need the same part. Where did you get your replacement?
Mercedes is telling me they changed the part to 278-200-21-51 but it doesn’t look right.
Did you ever find the part? I am being told it has to come from Germany and will take 2-3 weeks. There are none in the states, and only one available in Germany. Thanks!
At the back of the engine is probably your heater hose, or to be more precise, the plastic coupling that the hose connects to. Simple fix just a pain to get to. Why MB thinks it’s ok to use plastic coolant parts is one of the dumbest things I’ve come across so far.
Hi chiromikey, sorry for such a late question on this thread but I too need to replace the rear plastic coupling for the heater core hose (after I just replaced the turbo coolant tubes at the front of the engine) ... - My question is, do I need to remove the intake manifold / intercooler as Forest Gump 9 did or can I access it by removing the Vacuum Pump instead? Or is the intake manifold removal easier than the vac pump anyways? (2012 E63 with 186,000 miles / 300,000 Km)
Thanks,
Josh
They told me the same thing as well as installing a harness dust cap. Apparently they deleted the electrical solenoid that the original part had. Mine is in the local indie shop having this replaced this week. The only thing I am not sure about is if the electrical delete will throw a code. Awaiting feedback from the indie shop.
Got home the other night to a low coolant alert on the dash, I thought no big deal, even though it has never happened before
Topped it up and could hear the water coming out on the floor. found the issue of the rear heater connector but I am unable to find what should be in the top of the thing
Last edited by enjoy_the_ride; 08-22-2021 at 12:06 AM.
Reason: image - with details
They told me the same thing as well as installing a harness dust cap. Apparently they deleted the electrical solenoid that the original part had. Mine is in the local indie shop having this replaced this week. The only thing I am not sure about is if the electrical delete will throw a code. Awaiting feedback from the indie shop.
Hello!
I have a similar problem. I need to replace old part, with a new one (updated one) w/o the electrical solenoid. Any update if you get a fault code after installing it?
I have a similar problem. I need to replace old part, with a new one (updated one) w/o the electrical solenoid. Any update if you get a fault code after installing it?
I’m going through the coolant line replacement and replaced the water pump as well. I got the new factory pump on and found that the idler puller bolt hole is not threaded. Do I need to tap the hole or are the bolts self tapping? If so, do I just thread the bolt for the idler pulley in to the aluminum boss on the pump? I’m surprised it isn’t already tapped and wonder why it is left unthreaded.
14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
Originally Posted by Code7rpd
I’m going through the coolant line replacement and replaced the water pump as well. I got the new factory pump on and found that the idler puller bolt hole is not threaded. Do I need to tap the hole or are the bolts self tapping? If so, do I just thread the bolt for the idler pulley in to the aluminum boss on the pump? I’m surprised it isn’t already tapped and wonder why it is left unthreaded.
I noticed that on mine as well during the replacement. I ran a tap through mine while it was off.
Help me with the part number of this coolant line, please. I haven´t the sticker with the part number.
I have a 2016 GLE 63 s Stage II+, I found some coolant leaks in my engine and I buy all coolant lines to replace them, but I can´t find this other, attached the Code7rpd photo, I apprecciate the help.
The part number for the hose is A2782031217. You should also order the plastic connector it
slides on to - part 0099972972. As for the hose - I have a spare one as I bought 2 by mistake. If you are in the lower 48, I’m happy to send it to you at no charge. It’s brand new and I can’t recall where I ordered it, so it is just collecting dust as I won’t be returning it. Photo of the hose is attached.
12-03-2018, 11:39 AM
HELP!!!! with the part number of this coolant ine
