2011 E63 (6.3L) Random Misfire, cylinders 5-8 (now throwing parts at it)
#1
2011 E63 (6.3L) Random Misfire, cylinders 5-8 (now throwing parts at it)
Plenty of thread searching over the last week has resulted in changing all plugs, coils, primary o2 sensors.Giving this narrative so that when I figure it out, I can post the answer for future member searches.
Car is a 2011 E63, bone stock, 65k miles.
Drove home, parked it, came back the next morning and it started fine. Was waiting my standard 10 seconds for it to "warm" before I put it in reverse, and just as I was about to reach for the gear selector I felt it drop a cylinder. Check engine light came on, then started flashing. I took it down the driveway to see if it would cure itself, it got worse. Limped it back up the driveway, turned it off, then tried again. No change.
Car had a 1/4 tank, I went and got gas for it and put in 4 gallons, no change.
I let the car sit for a day, came back and no change. I let the car idle for a while with me playing with the throttle, it idles very badly and stinks of fuel out of the exhaust. If I put it in reverse, the car will barely drive and will either buck so badly it'll eventually conk out, or it'll just get bad enough to create a knock.
Got my basic scanner which resulted in: P0300,P0301, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308
Started searching the threads over the next few days. Resulted in me changing all plugs, all coils, both primary o2 sensors. All plugs were in great shape, with the exception of Cylinder 5, which was still soaking wet with fuel even though the car hadn't been started in 3 days. Cylinder also had burnt oil flakes on top of the piston, but nothing too bad. Rest of the cylinders looked good.
No change with new parts, except no more Cylinder 1 misfire, just P0300, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308, all SAME bank/side
This is when I started trying to make the misfire switch to the other side of the engine:
-I swapped MAF sensors from side to side = no change
-I swapped Exhaust Camshaft sensors from side to side (no change), only ones I could interchange as the other two are side specific
-I used a heat gun before and after CATS to check temperatures, temp was cooler after cats, which is strange, but tough to gauge due to severity of misfire
I am waiting on the delivery of my Intake Cam Sensor for L side (cylinders 5-8), with hopes this is it
Update: no compression in cylinder 5, with cylinders 6,7,8 not having great compression either.
Originally thought it was a bent valve, but leakdown showed air getting pushed out the oil filler cap... Suspecting ring or cylinder wall wear... no idea why or how
Car is a 2011 E63, bone stock, 65k miles.
Drove home, parked it, came back the next morning and it started fine. Was waiting my standard 10 seconds for it to "warm" before I put it in reverse, and just as I was about to reach for the gear selector I felt it drop a cylinder. Check engine light came on, then started flashing. I took it down the driveway to see if it would cure itself, it got worse. Limped it back up the driveway, turned it off, then tried again. No change.
Car had a 1/4 tank, I went and got gas for it and put in 4 gallons, no change.
I let the car sit for a day, came back and no change. I let the car idle for a while with me playing with the throttle, it idles very badly and stinks of fuel out of the exhaust. If I put it in reverse, the car will barely drive and will either buck so badly it'll eventually conk out, or it'll just get bad enough to create a knock.
Got my basic scanner which resulted in: P0300,P0301, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308
Started searching the threads over the next few days. Resulted in me changing all plugs, all coils, both primary o2 sensors. All plugs were in great shape, with the exception of Cylinder 5, which was still soaking wet with fuel even though the car hadn't been started in 3 days. Cylinder also had burnt oil flakes on top of the piston, but nothing too bad. Rest of the cylinders looked good.
No change with new parts, except no more Cylinder 1 misfire, just P0300, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308, all SAME bank/side
This is when I started trying to make the misfire switch to the other side of the engine:
-I swapped MAF sensors from side to side = no change
-I swapped Exhaust Camshaft sensors from side to side (no change), only ones I could interchange as the other two are side specific
-I used a heat gun before and after CATS to check temperatures, temp was cooler after cats, which is strange, but tough to gauge due to severity of misfire
I am waiting on the delivery of my Intake Cam Sensor for L side (cylinders 5-8), with hopes this is it
Update: no compression in cylinder 5, with cylinders 6,7,8 not having great compression either.
Originally thought it was a bent valve, but leakdown showed air getting pushed out the oil filler cap... Suspecting ring or cylinder wall wear... no idea why or how
Last edited by joeekrub; 07-10-2019 at 08:38 PM.
The following users liked this post:
sheefo2k (07-11-2019)
#2
Out Of Control!!
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 11,873
Received 2,084 Likes
on
1,455 Posts
2014 E63S; AMS 100 octane ecu tune; edok tcu tune; BB intakes; dyno tuned
Wow, I'm just impressed at your skills, sorry I can't help? Is there an issue with the fuel rail on the bank of the cylinders misfiring?
Last edited by PeterUbers; 07-08-2019 at 12:34 AM.
#6
Getting to that point. But I’ve sent many cars to many “professionals” before; sometimes their computers tell them exactly what’s wrong, other times they chase it and then bill me for their chasing. Realistically the first 4 things they were going to do was everything I just did. Coils, plugs, o2’s, and filters needed to be done anyways, so figured I would do it instead of paying them an exorbitant amount for it (plugs specifically)..... and the car is an hour away from my dealer at the race team shop, so figured I would attempt to get lucky before getting it towed or trailering it there..... and because I enjoy wrenching up to a point.... hope that’s enough reason.
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
With full bank codes my first thought was a bad O2 sensor but since you checked that my second thought would be clogged or dislodged cat. That might explain the temp difference you measured as well.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Yeah i would try to avoid dealer if possible and if time allows. I enjoy finding/fixing issues myself. I would without a doubt have $10k+ in labor alone if i ever took my e63 to the dealer for the issues i've had.
Anyways. How many miles? Do you ever get any camshaft adjuster rattle? I've seen a video on YouTube of a m156 e63 that had a pretty nice misfire, he claimed he replaced one of the intake cam adjusters and it fixed it. Other than that car, i hadn't heard of that.
Long shot on this one, but... fuel injectors? They have been known (sort of rare) to hang and potentially hose a cylinder down. I'll be replacing mine when i get the chance for good measure, esp since i have 172,000 miles.
Checking the valvetrain can't hurt. Valve covers are easy to pop off
Anyways. How many miles? Do you ever get any camshaft adjuster rattle? I've seen a video on YouTube of a m156 e63 that had a pretty nice misfire, he claimed he replaced one of the intake cam adjusters and it fixed it. Other than that car, i hadn't heard of that.
Long shot on this one, but... fuel injectors? They have been known (sort of rare) to hang and potentially hose a cylinder down. I'll be replacing mine when i get the chance for good measure, esp since i have 172,000 miles.
Checking the valvetrain can't hurt. Valve covers are easy to pop off
The following users liked this post:
joeekrub (07-09-2019)
#9
Only 65k miles, so it’s fresh enough. Engine was surprisingly quiet in terms of noise. Much less than I expected it to be at this stage in its life.
I have an intake cam sensor on its way, just took awhile to get. If it’s not that, I’m putting money on a collapsed cat, but we’ll see. Only other thing I’ve seen would be if needing a flash update to the software to clear everything. Some random cases of the old values not getting replaced for whatever reason.
It’s going to an AMG specialty shop tomorrow or Thursday. So I’ll send an update if it’s an easy scan and fix or not. Last chances to get your guesses in
I have an intake cam sensor on its way, just took awhile to get. If it’s not that, I’m putting money on a collapsed cat, but we’ll see. Only other thing I’ve seen would be if needing a flash update to the software to clear everything. Some random cases of the old values not getting replaced for whatever reason.
It’s going to an AMG specialty shop tomorrow or Thursday. So I’ll send an update if it’s an easy scan and fix or not. Last chances to get your guesses in
#10
Well.........
no compression in cylinder 5, with cylinders 6,7,8 not having great compression either.
Originally thought it was a bent valve, but leakdown showed air getting pushed out the oil filler cap... Suspecting ring or cylinder wall wear.
which is weird due to the fact that if there is that much cylinder wear or ring damage, I would have expected to see some smoke from oil burning. But the car shows no signs of that.
No compression could be due from “cylinder wash” with so much fuel getting pumped into the cylinder, maybe leaky injector, root cause of that still undetermined, as well as what the actual issue with the engine is
no compression in cylinder 5, with cylinders 6,7,8 not having great compression either.
Originally thought it was a bent valve, but leakdown showed air getting pushed out the oil filler cap... Suspecting ring or cylinder wall wear.
which is weird due to the fact that if there is that much cylinder wear or ring damage, I would have expected to see some smoke from oil burning. But the car shows no signs of that.
No compression could be due from “cylinder wash” with so much fuel getting pumped into the cylinder, maybe leaky injector, root cause of that still undetermined, as well as what the actual issue with the engine is
Last edited by joeekrub; 07-10-2019 at 08:42 PM.
The following users liked this post:
sheefo2k (07-11-2019)
#11
Plenty of thread searching over the last week has resulted in changing all plugs, coils, primary o2 sensors.Giving this narrative so that when I figure it out, I can post the answer for future member searches.
Car is a 2011 E63, bone stock, 65k miles.
Drove home, parked it, came back the next morning and it started fine. Was waiting my standard 10 seconds for it to "warm" before I put it in reverse, and just as I was about to reach for the gear selector I felt it drop a cylinder. Check engine light came on, then started flashing. I took it down the driveway to see if it would cure itself, it got worse. Limped it back up the driveway, turned it off, then tried again. No change.
Car had a 1/4 tank, I went and got gas for it and put in 4 gallons, no change.
I let the car sit for a day, came back and no change. I let the car idle for a while with me playing with the throttle, it idles very badly and stinks of fuel out of the exhaust. If I put it in reverse, the car will barely drive and will either buck so badly it'll eventually conk out, or it'll just get bad enough to create a knock.
Got my basic scanner which resulted in: P0300,P0301, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308
Started searching the threads over the next few days. Resulted in me changing all plugs, all coils, both primary o2 sensors. All plugs were in great shape, with the exception of Cylinder 5, which was still soaking wet with fuel even though the car hadn't been started in 3 days. Cylinder also had burnt oil flakes on top of the piston, but nothing too bad. Rest of the cylinders looked good.
No change with new parts, except no more Cylinder 1 misfire, just P0300, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308, all SAME bank/side
This is when I started trying to make the misfire switch to the other side of the engine:
-I swapped MAF sensors from side to side = no change
-I swapped Exhaust Camshaft sensors from side to side (no change), only ones I could interchange as the other two are side specific
-I used a heat gun before and after CATS to check temperatures, temp was cooler after cats, which is strange, but tough to gauge due to severity of misfire
I am waiting on the delivery of my Intake Cam Sensor for L side (cylinders 5-8), with hopes this is it
Update: no compression in cylinder 5, with cylinders 6,7,8 not having great compression either.
Originally thought it was a bent valve, but leakdown showed air getting pushed out the oil filler cap... Suspecting ring or cylinder wall wear... no idea why or how
Car is a 2011 E63, bone stock, 65k miles.
Drove home, parked it, came back the next morning and it started fine. Was waiting my standard 10 seconds for it to "warm" before I put it in reverse, and just as I was about to reach for the gear selector I felt it drop a cylinder. Check engine light came on, then started flashing. I took it down the driveway to see if it would cure itself, it got worse. Limped it back up the driveway, turned it off, then tried again. No change.
Car had a 1/4 tank, I went and got gas for it and put in 4 gallons, no change.
I let the car sit for a day, came back and no change. I let the car idle for a while with me playing with the throttle, it idles very badly and stinks of fuel out of the exhaust. If I put it in reverse, the car will barely drive and will either buck so badly it'll eventually conk out, or it'll just get bad enough to create a knock.
Got my basic scanner which resulted in: P0300,P0301, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308
Started searching the threads over the next few days. Resulted in me changing all plugs, all coils, both primary o2 sensors. All plugs were in great shape, with the exception of Cylinder 5, which was still soaking wet with fuel even though the car hadn't been started in 3 days. Cylinder also had burnt oil flakes on top of the piston, but nothing too bad. Rest of the cylinders looked good.
No change with new parts, except no more Cylinder 1 misfire, just P0300, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308, all SAME bank/side
This is when I started trying to make the misfire switch to the other side of the engine:
-I swapped MAF sensors from side to side = no change
-I swapped Exhaust Camshaft sensors from side to side (no change), only ones I could interchange as the other two are side specific
-I used a heat gun before and after CATS to check temperatures, temp was cooler after cats, which is strange, but tough to gauge due to severity of misfire
I am waiting on the delivery of my Intake Cam Sensor for L side (cylinders 5-8), with hopes this is it
Update: no compression in cylinder 5, with cylinders 6,7,8 not having great compression either.
Originally thought it was a bent valve, but leakdown showed air getting pushed out the oil filler cap... Suspecting ring or cylinder wall wear... no idea why or how
Well.........
no compression in cylinder 5, with cylinders 6,7,8 not having great compression either.
Originally thought it was a bent valve, but leakdown showed air getting pushed out the oil filler cap... Suspecting ring or cylinder wall wear.
which is weird due to the fact that if there is that much cylinder wear or ring damage, I would have expected to see some smoke from oil burning. But the car shows no signs of that.
No compression could be due from “cylinder wash” with so much fuel getting pumped into the cylinder, maybe leaky injector, root cause of that still undetermined, as well as what the actual issue with the engine is
no compression in cylinder 5, with cylinders 6,7,8 not having great compression either.
Originally thought it was a bent valve, but leakdown showed air getting pushed out the oil filler cap... Suspecting ring or cylinder wall wear.
which is weird due to the fact that if there is that much cylinder wear or ring damage, I would have expected to see some smoke from oil burning. But the car shows no signs of that.
No compression could be due from “cylinder wash” with so much fuel getting pumped into the cylinder, maybe leaky injector, root cause of that still undetermined, as well as what the actual issue with the engine is
#13
#15
#18
Member
Weird, good to know. Thank you.
My 2009 SL63 was running fine and then started sputtering in stop and go traffic. Pulled to the side of the road, shut off, turned back on, perfectly fine and drove back home. I now know that was "limp mode".
Was fine for a few weeks. Took it out a week ago to drive for a work meeting, and started sputtering out of the neighborhood, especially at idle or stop signs. If I let it sit too long, would stall and shut off.
Drove home, parked, and started troubleshooting.
Pulled codes. Bank 2 (Driver) intake cam sensor.
Replaced.
Code moved to Bank 2 (Driver) exhaust cam sensor.
Replaced.
Code moved to general misfiring, Bank 2, Cylinders 5, 6, 7, 8.
Switched MAFs, nothing.
Bank 2 (Driver) Sensor 1 (upstream) o2 was reading 1.999 for Lambda.
Replaced, nothing.
Replaced Sensor 2 for kicks cause it did have a funny reading.
Nothing.
Fuel injectors are new in the car. Cleaned out the air intake and filters (K&N).
Nothing.
Spark plugs are new. Pulled one and looked fine.
I need to retrain my camshaft sensors but I can't with the CEL (check engine light) on.
Currently stuck.![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
I don't think it's mechanical, although I guess I could pull the cylinder cover and take a looksie. I've done 2 head bolt jobs on the M156 engines before, so I'm familiar with the internals.
Open to thoughts.
My 2009 SL63 was running fine and then started sputtering in stop and go traffic. Pulled to the side of the road, shut off, turned back on, perfectly fine and drove back home. I now know that was "limp mode".
Was fine for a few weeks. Took it out a week ago to drive for a work meeting, and started sputtering out of the neighborhood, especially at idle or stop signs. If I let it sit too long, would stall and shut off.
Drove home, parked, and started troubleshooting.
Pulled codes. Bank 2 (Driver) intake cam sensor.
Replaced.
Code moved to Bank 2 (Driver) exhaust cam sensor.
Replaced.
Code moved to general misfiring, Bank 2, Cylinders 5, 6, 7, 8.
Switched MAFs, nothing.
Bank 2 (Driver) Sensor 1 (upstream) o2 was reading 1.999 for Lambda.
Replaced, nothing.
Replaced Sensor 2 for kicks cause it did have a funny reading.
Nothing.
Fuel injectors are new in the car. Cleaned out the air intake and filters (K&N).
Nothing.
Spark plugs are new. Pulled one and looked fine.
I need to retrain my camshaft sensors but I can't with the CEL (check engine light) on.
Currently stuck.
![Frown](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
I don't think it's mechanical, although I guess I could pull the cylinder cover and take a looksie. I've done 2 head bolt jobs on the M156 engines before, so I'm familiar with the internals.
Open to thoughts.