The JBL unit does have an adjustable crossover and a phase selection switch, as well as gain adjustment. While it does fit the spare tire area, the plastic tray under the spare tire does not help sound quality. Music type is everything under the sun, literally. These DSP controlled factory audio systems suffer from bass frequency roll off when turned up to higher volumes, it’s specifically bad in the E series HK system. Sounds good at lower volume and then doesn’t keep up with mids/highs at mid volume levels and you (I in this case) can hear the bass and frequency rolloff built in trying to preserve the weak factory sub. An LC2 or similar higher end unit eliminates this. I’m no audio expert, but I’ve done a lot of them.

 

Hello , looking into installing this for my 2017 GLS 550 , any updates ? still sounds good ? any recommendations ? would you do anything if you do it over ?

Thank you

 

Yes! I love it still. For the lack of lows in the MB package - this fills them in perfect. I took my time with the install, ran the power lead from the front to back along the chassis harness. Really looked good. Only thing I haven't done was take out the old sub and put the spare tire tools in the old subs place. I highly recommend this product. People are right - it isn't for bass competitions. But it will rattle the car...it fills the sounds in great.

Not sure there is much I would do over. I did break a trim piece (bottom of the B-Pillar) trying to take it off...but bought a replacement and like new. Honestly, just take your time on your install. I have gone in and fixed some rattles that the sub has brought in around the car. Just get some good felt tape

I am super happy with the product. Let me know if you have any random questions.

 

Do you have a pic of the install? Is the 400W amp aftermarket as the bazooka's are usually100W RMS? Are you running in phase so the subs aren't cancelling each other?

Just looking for ideas and the JBL would keep the space inside the car clean as the OP did.

 

@bbretzman @Vrodman @FastWgn I really like the idea of this sub in the spare tire well. I wanted your opinions. I have a 2012 E63 with the auxiliary battery next to the spare. For ease of install, it sounds like that to power the amp, I could tap into the wire in the spare compartment. I believe I have read that there is a power cable from the main battery in the engine bay that is run to the aux battery location.

Much appreciated for your answers to my questions below!

**If that is the case, is the Black wire that I circled in both pictures this power wire from the main battery in the engine bay?

**If that black wire is a power wire that I can use for power, do I run the power cable to the amp from the black wire at its connection point that I illustrated in the 3rd photo?

**It seems that the brown wire that is connected to the negative terminal in the auxiliary battery is connected to ground from the left side to the right side of picture 4. Is that the ground that I should use for the amp?

**To tap into the high level speaker inputs in the N40/9 "rear bass speaker amplifier", should I tap into both the "+" and "-" at pins below? Or do I just need to tap into one set or the other?
pin 10: 1+
pin 7: 1-
pin 1: 2+
pin 4: 2-

**Since I would be tapping into the high level inputs referenced in the question before, I do not need to worry about connecting any type of "remote turn-on" wire/switch for the amp since the subwoofer unit has a way to determine when my stereo is on and will turn-on the amp through these high level input taps, correct?

Again, much appreciated for your insight and knowledge!

 

Maybe on the black cable - it's either the incoming charging current our the outgoing starter one. The black box is the regulator etc. I would definitely use a voltmeter to check.
The connection point *looks* like it's on the other side of the regulator box. I'd go for the incoming side instead. Again - voltmeter and 5 min will guide you right.
On the ground point- absolutely.
Most speaker level inputs do require both sides since there is a differential circuit that extracts the base signal (the base is 99+% in both channels).
You can either use the signal turn on or the remote turn on. Most people prefer to remote turn on since it's a guaranteed way to make it work.

Lastly - you may want to look into using the low level input (pin 2 & 3), I think they are low level, mono signal. Cleaner.

 

Sorry to ask a newbie question @FastWgn , with using a voltmeter...I have never used one. To determine if I can use the black cable to power the amp, am I looking for a constant 12.5 volts at the terminal end of the black cable at the regulator by the trunk auxiliary battery?

 

@FastWgn If I tap into "the low level input (pin 2 & 3)" as you suggest, do I have to purchase a speaker to rca step down, like an LCI or just convert the speaker level wires to RCAs which then I can plug into the Sub amp low level inputs?

 

Hmm, your question confuses me a bit.
The sub has speaker level and low level inputs. You use one of the two, not both.

 

@FastWgn Sorry for the delayed response. Every time I post, I guess my post does not post immediately because it requires a moderator to review before it is allowed to post. I wish it would post immediately so we can keep this discussion moving along. Any thoughts anyone on why I am flagged and cannot immediately post? It is 6-8 hours before this post goes live. I am posting right now on 1-3-2021 at 12:39pm-Pacific time zone.

Anyway, I attempted to describe below what I meant. If I tap into the single "the low level input (pin 2:brown & 3:white, yellow my car via pic)", do I splice each of these wires to create an RCA male plug that I can then plug into the JBLBass Pro harness?

If so with the splice, I have one wire for positive and one wire for negative coming from the car but to create an RCA male, doesn't the RCA wire on a positive have 2 wires for each the RCA + and RCA -. How do I make the splice of one wire into 2 to create the RCA male for both the RCA+ and RCA-

 

I attempted to diagram my question in the pic below.

"the low level input (pin 2 & 3)" are one wire each. But one RCA cable has 2 wires, if I am correct. Therefore, how do I splice in an RCA that has two wires for the one wire for the + from the car amp and then splice another RCA with two wires for the one wire for the - from the car amp. I am a real newbee at this, so sorry about the really basic question

 

Ignore my diagram above, see the diagram below

Regarding my last 2 posts, I don't understand how I connect the low level single "+" wire from the car and the low level single "-" wire from the car into the two RCA inputs on the JBL harness.

Why I'm confused is because 1 RCA requires a "+" and a "-" connection. Therefore, if there are 2 RCA on the JBL harness (a total of 4 wires), I am at a loss as to how I connect the low level wires from the car (2 wires) to the RCA wires (a total of 4 wires, a "+" and "-" )on each of the 2 RCA connectors.

Is it as simple as just splitting the "+" from the car into 2 "+" and the same with the "-" to create the 4 wires to create the 2 RCAs to then plug into the JBL harness?

 

OK - I see what you mean. Yes, my assumption is that the low level input to the amplifier is mono (one set of + and -). and you are correct = the RCA plug has + (tip) in the center and the - (ring).
So you would have to split the harness wires into two RCA plugs for JBL input.
Or you can use the speaker level ones.

 

@FastWgn Thanks for your insight and help! I have ordered everything I need. Now I just have to wait to receive, install and cross my fingers that this works!

Oh, I decided to run the power from the main battery in the engine bay. It is more a pain in the a!@. But I could not find any info that definitively said it was ok or safe to do so. And I just did not trust that black wire coming from the engine bay as to whether it is sending out or in the power. If anyone has good instructions on how to test that with a volt meter, please let me know. As I have said, I am a newbie at this.

Also I found a fuse in location 71 in the fuse box in the trunk that I will tap into for the remote turn on. That fuse location is associated with the "Vehicle interior socket, front Front cigarette lighter with ashtray illumination" according to the website below: https://fuse-box.info/mercedes-benz/...uses-and-relay

 

The test with a voltmeter is very simple. Have it attached to the wire, see what the value is while car is off (likely zero), and while engine is running (13.7-14.5V).
That will take 5 min, Running the power cable will take you MUCH more than that.
Two issues on the cigarette lighter connection. Frist - it may be that it's not switched, or most likely it's switched with a delay. means your JBL will be turned on even if car i turned off. And of course - even if the radio is off it will always be on once car is started. Not a biggie though.
But since you have a real amp on/off connector I'd use that one instead.
Lastly - there is power in the connector - pin 11. The JBL amps max draw is 30A, but i bet it draws much, much less during normal usage. You could maybe even just steam that power as well... But I would 100% go for the aux battery. Much easier and much greater wire to the main battery etc.

 

@FastWgn Thanks for the words of encouragement and tips for the battery power test. If it turns out the way you explained via the volt meter readings, I suppose I should be good to go to draw off of the black cable at the regulator box, right?

Also what should I expect the volt meter to read if the black cable is not the right cable or is not the right cable to draw from because it is sending power back to the starter instead of charging the auxiliary battery (i presume that is what the black cable is being run to the trunk).

Regarding Pin 11 and remote turn on.... pin 11 is described above as "30 (12V continuous)" but pin 8 is described as "on (from main amp)". Is it pin 11 where I should pull the remote on or pin 8?

 

Pin 8 is the remote turn on one. Use that one.
What I'm saying is that there IS power in pin 11 (12V)

 

@FastWgn You're the best! Thanks for the info. I will be back after the install is complete with a report.

 

I got my JBL Bass Pro today. Over the weekend, I readied my car for the install. I took my time, read a lot on this forum, and watched a lot of YouTube videos. I have never done this before and was intimidated by the German engineering that has gone into this car. It is quite astounding what the Germans accomplish in putting this car together. With my car wired last night and awaiting for my JBL Bass Pro to arrive today, I could not sleep last night, nervous as to whether I completely botched my install or be amazed that I pulled it off. Thanks to all on this forum and Thread, I successfully installed the Bass Pro. It sounds incredible! Can't believe I pulled it off. I used Positap Tap-It to tap into the + and - wiring going into the factory sub amp. I spliced 1 set of RCA cables 2 wires for + and two for the -. I also tapped into the black remote on. I ran power to the auxiliary battery in the trunk and used an existing ground in the trunk being used by other factory grounds. I pulled it off and the amount of bass you get does NOT leave you wanting. Thanks again to all. Below is a post of my dirty work to make sure it worked before I put it all back together again. Once I get it all put together again and clean, I will post the final result.

 

Congrats! Great for you - now enjoy it!

 

Here's the finished product...