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Re-Posting this here to see if anyone has any history.
I have searched everywhere on here but can't find anyone who has installed a JBL BassPro Hub (or something similar). By my measurements it should fit pretty well around the spare tire (wagon owner here).
Anyone have any experience? I might become the guinea pig if no one has.
Well, went ahead and went for it and installed the JBL BassHub Pro into the back of my 2016 E63s Estate. So far I have been really impressed with the sound/bass out of the unit. I thought the stock woofer (H&K) never really was enough for my liking and this added just the right amount (running the gain at about 35% so there is much more available if I want it).
Below are some notes for those interested.
Purchased the unit, trim removal tools, Crutchfield install kit (8g wire), speaker wire
The unit fits into the spare tire very well, but, the tool kit obviously loses its home (working on my plan for that now)
Ran the power cable through the hole that the stock woofer cables come in. From there, underneath the rear seats to the right side (passenger) side of the car. Took all the trim off to run along the factory wiring harness in the MB protective pass-through. There is a perfect hole in the firewall in the passenger footwell area. Took the battery out to fish the wire through and it was there.
Used the grommet from the firewall, put a hole in it and have a nice safe spot for the power wire to run
Hooked the negative side up to the secondary battery (super easy since its right next to it)
It does take time to run the power wire. Be patient taking off the trim. Take your time on the trim at the base of the B-Pillar
I tapped into the subwoofer signals inside the trunk right at the H&K sub. I currently have the H&K sub disconnected
Let me know if you have any questions. Overall really happy with the install and how it sounds. If you want more bass from the H&K, this is a great way to not lose space and get quality sound. Harness Install Final Install Power / Fuse Firewall Pass Through Firewall Grommet
Last edited by bbretzman; Jan 28, 2020 at 11:36 AM.
Good idea. I mounted an 8" powered Bazooka, 400 W Amp inside. Left the stock sub connected.
Your wiring job is a bit on the amateur side. The wires across the rim may be in danger sooner or later.
Enjoy your sound.
Good idea. I mounted an 8" powered Bazooka, 400 W Amp inside. Left the stock sub connected.
Your wiring job is a bit on the amateur side. The wires across the rim may be in danger sooner or later.
Enjoy your sound.
Yes, I have a larger protection sleeve coming tomorrow for the entire harness to protect it. I didn't have anything available at my house to capture all the wires. Just didn't make it yet in time for the photos.
But thanks for the nice comments..........
Last edited by bbretzman; Jan 28, 2020 at 02:12 PM.
Maybe a dumb question - but why not connect the power to the Aux battery in the rear of the trunk? Lot shorter connection and that positive wire is pretty hefty as well?
This was quite a popular thread when I wrote it up about 4 years ago. I originally installed this setup in my 2011 and then transplanted it to my 2015. Still blowing windows out and performs awesome. Has all the easy conveniences of being removed when space is needed. Pretty much can assure that not many sound systems sound better than this in a car. Trust me that I know a LOT about audio quality.
I strongly suggest that others look at this option as well. It has been great. I'm sure the OP's setup is good too. Just pointing to other solutions.
This was quite a popular thread when I wrote it up about 4 years ago. I originally installed this setup in my 2011 and then transplanted it to my 2015. Still blowing windows out and performs awesome. Has all the easy conveniences of being removed when space is needed. Pretty much can assure that not many sound systems sound better than this in a car. Trust me that I know a LOT about audio quality.
I strongly suggest that others look at this option as well. It has been great. I'm sure the OP's setup is good too. Just pointing to other solutions.
Cheers
Vrodman,
Yup - well aware of your setup and it is very, very nice. There is absolutely no question that yours will sound better, tighter and louder than anything you can do "build-in" (spare tire, bazooka etc).
Problem is for us lowly wagon owners it has a tendency to be the times when you least expect it that you need the extra space... And then you have a big box to move around...
I originally thought of a quick connect solution for a bazooka or enclosure (like yours), but then more and more leaning towards a (sub optimal) solution of a spare tire subwoofer, removing the HK box and store the tools etc there. Full use of load floor, while having much better sound than stock. May be the happy medium I end up at. We'll see. Very slow moving project.
Maybe a dumb question - but why not connect the power to the Aux battery in the rear of the trunk? Lot shorter connection and that positive wire is pretty hefty as well?
Yes - I think this could be possible, certainly has a big enough wire going back to the AUX battery for this. Only thing I wasn't sure about was how the circuits worked with regards to the AUX battery. The small battery isn't really powerful enough to run that woofer all the time and wasn't sure how the whole system worked to keep it charged up...so just went the known/work way. I imagine it would work though - I was just playing it safe.
Yup - well aware of your setup and it is very, very nice. There is absolutely no question that yours will sound better, tighter and louder than anything you can do "build-in" (spare tire, bazooka etc).
Problem is for us lowly wagon owners it has a tendency to be the times when you least expect it that you need the extra space... And then you have a big box to move around...
I originally thought of a quick connect solution for a bazooka or enclosure (like yours), but then more and more leaning towards a (sub optimal) solution of a spare tire subwoofer, removing the HK box and store the tools etc there. Full use of load floor, while having much better sound than stock. May be the happy medium I end up at. We'll see. Very slow moving project.
I think I will take out the factory sub next and get some sort of contained, non-vibration sorted solution for the spare tire tools as well. Will let you know what I come up with.
I think I will take out the factory sub next and get some sort of contained, non-vibration sorted solution for the spare tire tools as well. Will let you know what I come up with.
One thing to think about is that the HK sub has a connector in the rear that has four wires in it - they may be the rear surround speaker level OUTputs?
One thing to think about is that the HK sub has a connector in the rear that has four wires in it - they may be the rear surround speaker level OUTputs?
I think it is more likely a dual vice coil sub. I tapped into 2 of the 4 to drive my Infinity Bass Link (high level input).
It depends on which year you have. My 2011 had a single 6" flat sub in the rear deck. My 2015 has 2 - 6"flat subs. The pin-outs were a bit different as a result. But I doubt it was dual vcoils in a wimpy little 6" sub (now my 12" Image Dynamics sub has dual coils). I had the pin-outs completely understood with the actual MB schematic for the 2011. When I transplanted my system my installer told me they were different but he figured it out. It worked great and I failed to ask him exactly what he tapped into. My bad boys. I am now too darn stiff, big, and old to crawl in the trunk and investigate. Ugh. Any installer will figure it out once you point them to that connector under there.
Looked in WIS, seems like this is the right diagram:
Code 810 is the Logic 7 stereo (checked my build sheet).
N40/9 is the "rear bass speaker amplifier"
H4/29 is "Woofer", so looks like a dual coil unit after all!
H4/55 is "Right rear surround speaker" (and H4/54 is the left one)
Here is the (I think?) interesting part. The N40/9 has the following inputs:
pin 8: on (from main amp)
pin 9: shield
pin 2: in- (from main amp)
pin 3: in+ (from main amp)
pin 11: 30 (12V continuous)
pin 12: GND
pin 10: 1+
pin 7: 1-
pin 1: 2+
pin 4: 2-
I wonder if the "on" is the turn on signal for the amplifier? Pin 8, black wire?
And I wonder if pins 2 and 3 are low level input signals? Maybe we can use them as an RCA plug? White is the center pin, brown is the circle. It's a mono signal in?
But then why have the dual voice coil woofer?
Looked in WIS, seems like this is the right diagram:
Code 810 is the Logic 7 stereo (checked my build sheet).
N40/9 is the "rear bass speaker amplifier"
H4/29 is "Woofer", so looks like a dual coil unit after all!
H4/55 is "Right rear surround speaker" (and H4/54 is the left one)
Here is the (I think?) interesting part. The N40/9 has the following inputs:
pin 8: on (from main amp)
pin 9: shield
pin 2: in- (from main amp)
pin 3: in+ (from main amp)
pin 11: 30 (12V continuous)
pin 12: GND
pin 10: 1+
pin 7: 1-
pin 1: 2+
pin 4: 2-
I wonder if the "on" is the turn on signal for the amplifier? Pin 1, black wire?
And I wonder if pins 2 and 3 are low level input signals? Maybe we can use them as an RCA plug? White is the center pin, brown is the circle. It's a mono signal in?
But then why have the dual voice coil woofer?
Yes. The black wire is the amp remote turn on/off
Dual vcoils are typically designed in so that they can be wired for different impedance. For example my monster Image Dynamics has 2 vcoils that are 4 ohms each. You can wire them in parallel or series depending on your amp. Of course in series you get an 8 ohm driver and in parallel you get a 2 ohm driver which is how mine is wired. My Alpine amp is actually solid down to 1 ohm! A fricken welder! Lol
Yes. The black wire is the amp remote turn on/off
Dual vcoils are typically designed in so that they can be wired for different impedance. For example my monster Image Dynamics has 2 vcoils that are 4 ohms each. You can wire them in parallel or series depending on your amp. Of course in series you get an 8 ohm driver and in parallel you get a 2 ohm driver which is how mine is wired. My Alpine amp is actually solid down to 1 ohm! A fricken welder! Lol
Does this help at all?
Maybe - but why do it in this scenario where the have full control over both amplifier AND woofer?
Some more info - with pictures. Removed the subwoofer from the car and the box is passive, the actual amplifier is in rear side compartment.
Picture of the box - only the 4 speaker connections.
Next I removed the actual woofer from the box - dual coil alright! And the box is all empty plastic.
Found the amplifier in the car - see green circle
Lastly - A look at the connector. Funky 3x4 looking one and the colors and pins agree with the schematic above.
So there is low level signal in (mono) etc. all there.
Pins are orgnaized liek this:
1 4 7 10
2 5 8 11
3 6 9 12
And again to wires; pin 8: on (from main amp) pin 9: shield pin 2: in- (from main amp) pin 3: in+ (from main amp) pin 11: 30 (12V continuous) pin 12: GND pin 10: 1+ pin 7: 1- pin 1: 2+ pin 4: 2-
Well, now I know where and how to connect both a line or speaker level subwoofer.
I installed one about a month ago, 2014 E550. A lot better than the stock HK sub, but the frequency roll off I’m not digging. I tapped into the pinout for the stock sub input that was 5+V. Might have to go with a LC2 or such to deal with the roll off. I wired to the aux battery in trunk.
I installed one about a month ago, 2014 E550. A lot better than the stock HK sub, but the frequency roll off I’m not digging. I tapped into the pinout for the stock sub input that was 5+V. Might have to go with a LC2 or such to deal with the roll off. I wired to the aux battery in trunk.
Could you clarify if you don't mind -- type of music, volume level..and does this sub have an adjustable crossover?
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