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However, for those who think the dealer cant tell, this is false.
I scanned my car with Xentry quick test and sure enough, It knows! It throws a internal engine trouble code and even says its shorted to ground.
Just a heads up
Has anyone tried to install a switch inside the car to turn it on/off manually?
Not a bad idea, so far I have not seen any reason not to leave it connected all the time. However I did install a tiny inline fuse just in case I ever need to turn it off for any reason.
The problem is for those who are trying to hide this from the dealer, the code will still be stored unless you cleared out with a Mercedes diagnostic tool
Not a bad idea, so far I have not seen any reason not to leave it connected all the time. However I did install a tiny inline fuse just in case I ever need to turn it off for any reason.
The problem is for those who are trying to hide this from the dealer, the code will still be stored unless you cleared out with a Mercedes diagnostic tool
Most of us are out of warranty unfortunately or don't even have a 3rd party.
Since I saw a reply earlier saying they had it running for 2yrs straight, but Mercedes engineered it to kick on/off, I'm thinking a on/off switch would be alot more beneficial especially if going to the track and waiting in the pit area or before a highway pull.
Last edited by Mojo20032004; 04-09-2021 at 01:05 PM.
Has anyone tried to install a switch inside the car to turn it on/off manually?
Arguably, the "proper" way to control the IC pump is by a controller, which is driven by the IC coolant temperature and some logic. In locations where temps never drop much (below freezing), hardwiring the IC pump may be acceptable. Once you run into -20C ambient, and the always-on IC pump drops another -20C, you can dangerously approach coolant refreeze. A controller + manual switch is probably the best of both worlds: automatic intelligent temp and manual override during the runs. Mind you, when you are queuing, you may also want to force air across the IC HEs. This means turning on the main fan in addition to the IC pump. I know of one such controller that can do both - tinyCWA by Tecomotive.
Has anyone tried to install a switch inside the car to turn it on/off manually?
I had a shop install such a switch - with the switch one way it's full on, and the other has it back to stock functionality.
The thought was that if I'm driving around a lot in the city, I don't need the extra cool IATs, and I'll extend the life of the pump ... and when I go on the highway, then I'll switch it on so that if I want some quick acceleration runs, the IATs will stay low. My switch is hidden to the left above where the hood release & OBD2 ports are, but within fairly easy reach where I can get to it while driving. I haven't been driving much recently though (<5k last year), so I've just left the switch set to on.
I had a shop install such a switch - with the switch one way it's full on, and the other has it back to stock functionality.
The thought was that if I'm driving around a lot in the city, I don't need the extra cool IATs, and I'll extend the life of the pump ... and when I go on the highway, then I'll switch it on so that if I want some quick acceleration runs, the IATs will stay low. My switch is hidden to the left above where the hood release & OBD2 ports are, but within fairly easy reach where I can get to it while driving. I haven't been driving much recently though (<5k last year), so I've just left the switch set to on.
I do datalog. Which theory are you referring to? Extending the life of the pump without it being constantly on seems obvious. Driving in town, the pump turns on if IATs pass 45* C. I'm not chasing every tenth of a second in city driving.
I would guess starting and stopping is harder than staying on. cars often run hotter in city stop and go then highway cruising.
IATs in city driving get to over 45*C less than you'd imagine - it's not constantly turning on and off. That may be why the threshold is set that high vs. a lower setting that many of us would have liked ... the lower setting would have made the mod less needed, but I agree that more constant cycling likely wears it out quicker. There's no way to tell relative wear of the pump by datalogging though. You could tell how long the pump stayed on and how many times it turns on, but not the relative wear of that vs. the other. We'll likely see eventually when some of the always-on start having their pumps fail, but hopefully that's a long way off.
How did you pull our the yellow insulator to put the groud wire in?
I could just force it in beside the other wire the insulator hole just stretcher around it. I used solid copper wire so it was easy to push in once stripped, no soldering the end of stranded wire required.
Does this mod cause a P023B - Charge Air Cooler Coolant Pump Control Circuit Low
Or do I have other problems? As soon as i did this mod I got that code and don't want to assume it's "normal".
Does this mod cause a P023B - Charge Air Cooler Coolant Pump Control Circuit Low
Or do I have other problems? As soon as i did this mod I got that code and don't want to assume it's "normal".
It gives you a shadow code yes, not sure which one it is, but it's not going to throw a light on the dash
It gives you a shadow code yes, not sure which one it is, but it's not going to throw a light on the dash
Thank you
I did the mod and my Intake Temps went to 102C today, pre mod it was hitting 60C. I wonder what is going on. I just double checked I'm not color blind this is the wire right? I used a multimeter and tested the pins on the other side, to the end of the wire, it is connecting nicely. Stumped.
So what you just stick a wire to the yellow and hook it to the ground. That's it???
yep; just did mine
one thing I noticed was that when I turn off the car .. the IC pump is on and running and turns off and on about 3 times for a minute at a time as the car becomes electrically silent ... then it stays off permanently ...
Last edited by PeterUbers; 10-13-2022 at 12:22 PM.
one thing I noticed was that when I turn off the car .. the IC pump is on and running and turns off and on about 3 times for a minute at a time as the car becomes electrically silent ... then it stays off permanently ...
Peter hey curious if you logged any runs and showing your IAT data since the pump-on mod? Consistently lower?
I was gonna make a vid on this soon, I just don't have a great way to log the results
Maybe using a scan tool? I know my Asus scan tool can log and show iat Temps along with mph.
Maybe doing a log of let's say Drive normally and than flooring it? If results are true, a pump that's always flowing should have a lower starting iat temp vs one that's turned on by the ecu at a certain temp rating. So in theory if both climb during a pull, the one with the rewire should be lower as it started off at a lower temp to begin with
This mod absolutely helped me back when I did it . Normally the intercooler pump will activate once temps reach 113 degrees . But by then your already heat soaked. This was done for faster warm up and better emission but for us tuned guys and those that drive hard it's a big issue . When jumping the ground only, the pump is now onn allowing coolant to circulate at full capacity. This definitely makes a difference on how long it now takes for the coolant to heat up after . It also doesn't shut off when the temps drop down past 113 degrees . Where as soon as it did prior to mod, the pump would shut off basically keeping you from bringing the coolant temps for the intercooler as close to ambient as possible limiting you to the 113 degrees mark. . Now while your doing a cool down run you can get the temps down into double digits and the pump will remain on. . For those that do not have an S you have a Bosch 010 pump which is absolutely garbage compared to the S model pumps which are a CWA 50/100 depending on the serial numbers on the pump . But these pumps if you uograde from a Bosch are such a great addition.
04-08-2021, 08:20 PM
