W212 AMG Discuss the W212 AMG's such as the E63

Help spark plug indexing

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Old Jan 29, 2025 | 09:49 PM
  #126  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
EVERYTHING IS ABOUT DETAILS

Originally Posted by zk2004mb
Have you checked the angle of openings when you install MB plugs at 23nm? I'm asking because when I took off the OEM plugs, only 2/8 plugs are within that 45' spec. The rest are all off.
what does this lead you to understand about the "MB indexing topic"... precision crafted machines ??
​​​​
Why does MB insist on not building robust ignition systems??

How many old-fashion details are used against basic performance..??



Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 29, 2025 at 09:56 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2025 | 12:58 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
what does this lead you to understand about the "MB indexing topic"... precision crafted machines ??
​​​​
Why does MB insist on not building robust ignition systems??

How many old-fashion details are used against basic performance..??

I mean... If MB post a bulletin to warn you of the necessity of plug indexing, one can at least expect the plug installed in the factory to be indexed properly.
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Old Feb 21, 2025 | 07:19 PM
  #128  
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I am about to gap my plugs and I read this on the gapping tool’s instructions
  • Adjustment Tips: For normal physical phenomena, some spark plugs electrode will spring back when adjust the gap. You are suggested to use 0.028in feeler gauge size if your desired gap is 0.03in, smaller scale than the target gap is recommended

is this common knowledge or do I stick with gap as marked?
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Old Feb 21, 2025 | 07:55 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by dspecialistb
I am about to gap my plugs and I read this on the gapping tool’s instructions
  • Adjustment Tips: For normal physical phenomena, some spark plugs electrode will spring back when adjust the gap. You are suggested to use 0.028in feeler gauge size if your desired gap is 0.03in, smaller scale than the target gap is recommended

is this common knowledge or do I stick with gap as marked?
Yes you can use one size smaller and when it springs back, you make sure to measure with the proper gauge that it relaxed to the right spec.
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Old Feb 21, 2025 | 07:58 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by zk2004mb
I mean... If MB post a bulletin to warn you of the necessity of plug indexing, one can at least expect the plug installed in the factory to be indexed properly.
Bulletin are often because they realize the factory may not have done something right and when going back in to make sure they are done right. It would follow that they saw issues in engines during a warranty period and this indexing helps ensure the best even atomization. Its obviously a bad design if the tolerances are that tight but the manufacturers of the plugs cant meet spec.
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Old Feb 21, 2025 | 08:31 PM
  #131  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
RELIABLE IGNITION SPARKS

I think the key is to realize which way the gap goes and what do we want and what we should do.

Gap doesn't spring back open right away, it takes countless heat cycles for steel to exert its shape memory.

What we want is a consistent spark rather than a long spark once a while.

So what you want is to under gap a hair knowing in 10kMi your plugs gap will have slightly widen into spec instead of out of spec already.

Make sure you do not drop any plug to the floor while gapping. If a plug falls down, don't use it! Work on your plugs over a table prior to installing.
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 01:39 PM
  #132  
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thank you all for the tips, I successfully swapped out plugs, ignition coils and boots. I have never pulled so hard to remove the coils in my life; the job took way longer than expected.
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 03:57 PM
  #133  
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
tough boots

Originally Posted by dspecialistb
thank you all for the tips, I successfully swapped out plugs, ignition coils and boots. I have never pulled so hard to remove the coils in my life; the job took way longer than expected.
there's a trick... unplug the boots from the coils first then it's easy to remove else it is pulling a high vacuum and quite difficult.

You won't have to revisit for another 50kMi or so. Hopefully the coils and boots will get the benefit of normal engine heat level.

Having a trusted ignition is a solid base for engine performance.


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 3, 2025 at 04:26 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 04:28 PM
  #134  
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From: Rocklin, CA
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Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
there's a trick... unplug the boots from the coils first then it's easy to remove else it is pulling a high vacuum and quite difficult.

You won't have to revisit for another 50kMi or so. Hopefully the coils and boots will get the benefit of normal engine heat level.
Learn something new everyday! In relation to this thread, I used the NGK one step colder plugs at .024" and started to mark where they landed up in relation to the injector out of curiousity but then forgot to keep up with it. All the plugs were torqued to 23NM however.
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 05:38 PM
  #135  
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Hopefully you used a bit of dielectric grease or silicone to prevent the hard pulling in the future. In the worry of breaking the wires of the coils, they are replaceable if need be. Glad you got it all done and now know how to save that install money going forward.
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Old Mar 4, 2025 | 01:39 PM
  #136  
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From: Rocklin, CA
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Originally Posted by Baltistyle
Hopefully you used a bit of dielectric grease or silicone to prevent the hard pulling in the future. In the worry of breaking the wires of the coils, they are replaceable if need be. Glad you got it all done and now know how to save that install money going forward.
Yes! there was a tiny bit of some sort of grease from the factory on the new boots, but I added a little dielectric grease out of habit. Surprisingly, I only broke 1 out of 8 of the original boots.
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Old Mar 5, 2025 | 01:35 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by dspecialistb
Yes! there was a tiny bit of some sort of grease from the factory on the new boots, but I added a little dielectric grease out of habit. Surprisingly, I only broke 1 out of 8 of the original boots.
Another couple tips for the future…coil boots are much easier to pull out when warm. If situation allows, do work as engine cooling down (not while piping hot of course). Also, I take a scrap piece of insulated wire (think speaker cable or similar) and shape into a 10” long loop. You can hook that around the point on back of coil boot to pull with
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Old Mar 6, 2025 | 03:08 PM
  #138  
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From: Rocklin, CA
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Originally Posted by Jaybird123
Another couple tips for the future…coil boots are much easier to pull out when warm. If situation allows, do work as engine cooling down (not while piping hot of course). Also, I take a scrap piece of insulated wire (think speaker cable or similar) and shape into a 10” long loop. You can hook that around the point on back of coil boot to pull with
I did notice the side that I worked on when the engine was cooling was a tad easier than the other side that was completely cold. I ended up using the spark plug pliers that I used for the wires on my W126, because I was intending to replace the boots regardless, but I will definitely keep that in mind for next round! so far the car is running smoothly with the one-step colder plugs and no lights or p codes related to misfires. Do misfires with these engines always turn on the CEL or produce codes or can they take place without being heard or felt?
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Old Mar 6, 2025 | 08:00 PM
  #139  
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multiple shades of grey

Combustion "misfires" have many causes from lean mixtures, to bad sparks and poor timings.

-- Small lean misfire are laggy weaknesses
-- Heavy ones are complete stumbles with injector off.
-- And every strength in between!

"No fault code" is still ****-poor performance.

You best be far away from the misfire territories.

>> HERE IS HOW TO GET THERE:

-- Step No 1: ALL reliable ignition components.

-- Then you get good TIMINGS (MOD-4)

-- Then ECU rewards you with good MIXTURES

-- Then you have strong CONTRIBUTIONS.

= Great Mercedes ownership: nice & easy!


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 6, 2025 at 08:07 PM.
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