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2012 Mercedes benz c63 amg coupe 2011 bmw 335xi coupe
Rotors possibly wearing faster than they should.
Hi guys, so my entire rotors and brake pads were changed about 12k miles ago, now there’s grooves when you run your finger. I’ve never had this happen to a car so fast. Pads are still aboht 70% in the front and 50 in the rear. Is this just how these wear? Sorry for the possible dumb question, just my c63 didn’t have grooves even after 20k of hard driving .
Hi guys, so my entire rotors and brake pads were changed about 12k miles ago, now there’s grooves when you run your finger. I’ve never had this happen to a car so fast. Pads are still aboht 70% in the front and 50 in the rear. Is this just how these wear? Sorry for the possible dumb question, just my c63 didn’t have grooves even after 20k of hard driving .
Not sure about the exact milestones however I have a hunch at why they wear fast. I was messing with my front pads and noticed that the pistons don't retract as much as pretty much any other car I've ever worked on. You literally cannot remove the pads until you force them apart with a tool. Any other car the pistons have maybe pulled back to a millimeter or so.
I'm assuming this may have been intentional, so that you get instant feedback when you touch the brake pedal. However it almost always leaves the pads touching the rotors at all times which would cause excessive wear. (As well as a crazy brake dust we all experience)
The brake dust is so bad, after one drive there dirty.
I'm currently testing the EBC redstuff pads vs the stock since a lot of people recommend them here.
I should have some results soon. I am filming it, so i will post here and to my yt channel when done.
Not sure about the exact milestones however I have a hunch at why they wear fast. I was messing with my front pads and noticed that the pistons don't retract as much as pretty much any other car I've ever worked on. You literally cannot remove the pads until you force them apart with a tool. Any other car the pistons have maybe pulled back to a millimeter or so.
I'm assuming this may have been intentional, so that you get instant feedback when you touch the brake pedal. However it almost always leaves the pads touching the rotors at all times which would cause excessive wear. (As well as a crazy brake dust we all experience)
Oh man I observed the same. When I removed my wheels, I noticed that the pads and the rotors are very very close. Seem they are always touching each other. I couldn’t verify though (maybe next time I can use a piece of paper to see if I can insert).
Most pads you just removed the retaining clips and the pads just fall out, but with the e63, literally had to pry the pads away with the spreader. Any this is on a 11k mile car, its not like they are frozen lol
I'm currently testing the EBC redstuff pads vs the stock since a lot of people recommend them here. I should have some results soon. I am filming it, so i will post here and to my yt channel when done.
I am interested to compare notes too. Switched over to EBC Redstuff a few months ago, new Brembo rotors. The initial impression is very good, but the break-in produced visible dust and occasional click in front when changing to/from R. Expect dust to reduce.
I am interested to compare notes too. Switched over to EBC Redstuff a few months ago, new Brembo rotors. The initial impression is very good, but the break-in produced visible dust and occasional click in front when changing to/from R. Expect dust to reduce.
The video I'm doing is a bit unconventional, but it takes out the variables. I put the Red stuff pads only on one side. That way i can just drive for a few days, start with clean wheels and compare. However, the problem im running into is the insane "bedding in" process.
Every single pad ive ever installed you can bed them in after a dozen of so hard stops. The EBC has a complex 1000 mile brake in process. So stupid.
As far as I can tell, EBC Bedding-in Process is no different to most other brands. They talk how to achieve the near ideal pads-to-rotor alignment, contact patch, and compound transfer. They even talk about the Pro Cut Lathe, a differentiator and additional revenue stream for their partner shops. All of that is applicable to other brands, even the portable lathe. I see no unique steps I could be doing if I used the OEM parts. The issue is the degree when enough is enough, and bedding-in can be declared completed.
Agreed. This reference-only mileage should have been made clearer. The whole point of bedding-in is to achieve decent amount of braking performance potential. Other things working as expected, this performance is predicated on (a) parts alignment, (b) contact patch, and (c) compound transfer on to the rotors. Once these 3 related parameters reach adequate levels, the bedding-in process is considered complete. EBC tells us this can be done when the "blue-ish band" covers the full width of the rotor... in about 200 miles using the conventional method. On average in USA, it is 6 days of driving. (Admittedly, in the current conditions it may take a bit longer.) The rest about 1000 or 2000 miles is a distraction seemingly to drive the lathe service. The blue-ish band at full width is how we are supposed to know.
Anecdotally, when I installed my Brembo/EBC Redstuff set, I did the warm-up, a bit of driving, multiple power braking from 60 to 10 mph on Day 1. Returned home to examine the brakes. The rotors did not achieve a consistent patch until I drove additional days and repeated the process a few times. I took the front caliper off and examined the pads. Although the rotors had shown the consistent reference band, the pads did not fully grind to a perfect rectangular contact patch. I could still see red paint in the middle and corners of the pad. Even then my brakes worked subjectively great. I suspect as the pads continue to break-in, their performance keeps gradually rising (larger contact patch).
I had all 4 corners replaced rotors and pads after 50,000kms so not as bad because I don’t drive too hard. But I won’t be surprised needing them to change if you always drive hard and break hard on a over 4000lb beast.
I am interested to compare notes too. Switched over to EBC Redstuff a few months ago, new Brembo rotors. The initial impression is very good, but the break-in produced visible dust and occasional click in front when changing to/from R. Expect dust to reduce.
Max - i've had the same set up of EBC reds pads and new brembo rotors... my MB master tech friend installed them and did the bedding process the same way as with the OEM pads and everything has been fine on my car.
I also get that clicking sound in the fronts whenever you go from reverse to drive or vice versa. i contacted EBC about that and they stated that was considered totally normal and I've never had any issues with stopping power (only the sound).
I definitely have noticed much lower brake dust with the EBC reds... its not 100% gone but compnared to the OEM pads its absolutely much better and much much less brake dust to clean up.
Appreciate everyone's sharing experience. So far, I am happy with the new set of Brembos/EBC Reds. I think it is a decent street combo. No issue with the click sound; I do not hear it anymore lately. On this issue... the pads shall float in the caliper. The OEM pads have tighter tolerances + the mylar cover that wraps over the ends of the pad. EBC Redstuff pads float a bit more on-pins/in-caliper, and we may occasionally hear it when switching direction.
Looks pretty normal to me. I've been using EBC yellows for 2 years now and I have no complaints. The brake dust is however just about the same as before with OEM. I seem to think that the yellows bite a bit better.
I'm at 54k miles, still on the first set of rotors. I measured the thickness of the rotors when I changed to the yellows and I was .5mm thinner. Meaning original of 36mm, down to 35.5mm.
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