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Good thing about this shaft is that for launching they have a load/sling effect improving 60 ft times . The relationship from the trans to the tires are dramatically increased. Shift speed is supposedly increased, so up shifts and downshifts should be improved, less stress on the output shaft since there no harsh shocks in the driveline like a steel shaft. There no longer a need for the rubber flex disc as the carbon in nature sucks up any vibration. They are also precision balanced. I was able to install the 3.75 shaft utilizing as much space as possible in the tunnel but allowing a half inch of space between the shaft and the heat shields. At first I was willing to remove some for the extra room but decided to fill in the rear differential bushings and leave everything in the tunnel stock. That way I can test how much movement in the engines and trans I can get away with before I touch anything. The 3.25 version is capable of withstanding over 2k hp and over 1500 tq and has much more clearance. Please note, from countless articles, customer feedback on other platforms such as dodge, jeep, bmw, extreme drag cars and some Amgs I was able to gather what these carbon fiver shafts improve. Some felt a slight improvement, while others while some said it was an absolute game changer. So I can't say for sure how good this will be for our platform. I will give everyone the same honest feed back like I always try my best to do.
The other points made far exceed the mechanical results
👍👍👍I respect other peoples opinion , I never let what others think effect what I like.
👍And plan to hand this down
👍👍👍So it’s the family’s show/race car they take turns coming to the events and helping me out .
👍👍my son made me this for Father's Day:
👍I will give everyone the same honest feed back like I always try my best to do.
Congratulations on, well everything about this and THANK YOU for sharing. That's a huge time commitment as well
The other points made far exceed the mechanical results
👍👍👍I respect other peoples opinion , I never let what others think effect what I like.
👍And plan to hand this down
👍👍👍So it’s the family’s show/race car they take turns coming to the events and helping me out .
👍👍my son made me this for Father's Day:
👍I will give everyone the same honest feed back like I always try my best to do.
Congratulations on, well everything about this and THANK YOU for sharing. That's a huge time commitment as well
For the less mechanically inclined of us (me), can you have a brief description of what these parts are in the last two posts? (I understand the CCB rotors.) What is that intake? Is that a completely different design for air intake? And is the other thing an oil catch can? I could be completely wrong on everything. Thanks in advance.... love watching this build, and I would love to grab some of the parts I do understand for my own car (like the carbon fiber drive shaft!!!).
No problem. So yes that is a short ram intake. And those are oil catch cans. These intakes allow the turbo to stay with in its efficiency zone easier. The stock inlet pipes are restricting. These allow much more flow, better waste gate duty cycle. This also effects back pressure, the reason why is the turbo needs to spin much more to over come the pressure drops , when this happens more back pressure is added to an already restricted turbo Exhuast manifold. So by allowing the turbo unrestricted incoming air it helps the overall system . No matter how small it may be it's still the byproduct of a turbo that's spinning slower to achieve the same boost pressure becoming more efficient. In a couole
months I have developed a new and improved high flow intake for the m157
I figured for those who love the data and detail I'd give you a comparison of the rotors . Here I'm comparing disc thickness, hat thickness, thickness in the mounting points and of course weight differences. This is in no way saying one is better then the other, I am in no way stating this. These are all great products.
Left oem carbon rotor 400mm 16 lbs , center A2D_performance carbon ceramic rotor 360mm 13.8 lbs , right 2 pice light weight iron rotor 360mm 25 lbs A2D_performance direct replacement Oem carbon A2d_performance Oem carbon ceramic 400mm
I wanted to post these that I was supposed to do a few weeks back . So I'm going to attempt to catch up so that all the details of this build are available to those who are interested
Amazing. Very interested in the catch can set up... also wondering if a stock car would need/benefit from them. Keep them pics coming!
for stock cars with tunes and even without it's an issue. Oil deposits on the top of the valves building up caked on top , along with oil deposits inside the intake. A while
back I mentioned this to some and they insisted it wasn't really an issue to worry about, a while later was paying for the valves to be cleaned. As it was enough to raise concerns. I'm glad I went with my instincts and moved fowArd with finding out how to successfully add catch cans to the m157 correctly by learning exactly how the system functions and when and at what load. I see the reason why no one has attempted not renntech or weistec. This would have been a no brainer money maker. It's an affordable uograde. Improvements in octane rating , improved intake temps, cleaner combustion . Granted it's small improvements but atleast you dramatically reduce valve deposits which is a major plus .
for stock cars with tunes and even without it's an issue. Oil deposits on the top of the valves building up caked on top , along with oil deposits inside the intake. A while
back I mentioned this to some and they insisted it wasn't really an issue to worry about, a while later was paying for the valves to be cleaned. As it was enough to raise concerns. I'm glad I went with my instincts and moved fowArd with finding out how to successfully add catch cans to the m157 correctly by learning exactly how the system functions and when and at what load. I see the reason why no one has attempted not renntech or weistec. This would have been a no brainer money maker. It's an affordable uograde. Improvements in octane rating , improved intake temps, cleaner combustion . Granted it's small improvements but atleast you dramatically reduce valve deposits which is a major plus .
Maybe you can market/start selling this as a kit! I am interested!
I managed to drop the transmission cooler down exposing now half of the radiator. Where as before it's only a couple of fins in the path of incoming cold air while most of the radiator is actually tucked away behind the reinforcement not getting any exposure. Our trans fluid temps get hot very fast after 2
hard runs especially when we are break boosting. I noticed that being tuned and having more hp increases how much faster and hotter the trans temp becomes. Also Noticed that not only does it sit higher in temps, but even with it open giving the cooler constant flow it does not cool down fast enough. So I've done a couple of other tweaks to the thermostat.
Finally was able to install the bumper for the final time. I'm definitely happy with how the vent complements the rear and side. I wanted to keep the vent factory OEM looking and not go to big. Just enough to know it's there and it's different . Makes the rear look a bit wider which I love. This isn't for everyone I get that. I personally have been wanting to do this for years.
perfect!!! No complaints at all. If you compliment them with a front strut bar and a rear subframe bar it dramatically improves handling, response and tq steer.
How does the car electronics react to not having the OE shocks? Which version coilovers did you go with? This is a topic I have been researching on since I bought my car and I haven't been able to find any solid answers (The one thing I can say I hate about this car IS the rear air suspension). The only thing I ever found was a video on YouTube from a company in Taiwan that sells a kit for the W212... but they don't have any info on what to do with the electronics (since I am positive there will be error codes).
How does the car electronics react to not having the OE shocks? Which version coilovers did you go with? This is a topic I have been researching on since I bought my car and I haven't been able to find any solid answers (The one thing I can say I hate about this car IS the rear air suspension). The only thing I ever found was a video on YouTube from a company in Taiwan that sells a kit for the W212... but they don't have any info on what to do with the electronics (since I am positive there will be error codes).
How does the car electronics react to not having the OE shocks? Which version coilovers did you go with? This is a topic I have been researching on since I bought my car and I haven't been able to find any solid answers (The one thing I can say I hate about this car IS the rear air suspension). The only thing I ever found was a video on YouTube from a company in Taiwan that sells a kit for the W212... but they don't have any info on what to do with the electronics (since I am positive there will be error codes).
actually I still currently retain my stock damper setup. And the rears are still bags . I do however have a rear coil spring conversion that I will install, but I wanted to get real world data. Once dialed in and I get a round about consistent 60 ft and quarter I will then swap the rears out for coil springs. The damper control should still work for sport and sport plus because I will keep the factory dampers . But I know once I set it for comfort and the rears do not lift I will most likely throw a rear suspension code indicating something is wrong with the rear bags . But once I cross that bridge I will definitely update everyone. But I will say. The factory rear bags I hated ALOT! But with the kw HAS up front and the rears lowered 2" front lowered 2.25" coupled with front upper strut bar and rear lower subframe bar with suspension mode in sport or sport plus and even in comfortable , but I'll give my exact impression based off sport plus. The car handles and feels so much better I am almost willing to forget the idea of adding coils . The only reason I will even add coils in the rear is because I love data and improvements so I have to atleast see if it will indeed make a difference. It's a no brainer the coils will always handle better as far as taking turns and handling. But my point will be to see if it allows more grip and bite on all 4 tires now that I have limited slip diffs upfront and in the rear
actually I still currently retain my stock damper setup. And the rears are still bags . I do however have a rear coil spring conversion that I will install, but I wanted to get real world data. Once dialed in and I get a round about consistent 60 ft and quarter I will then swap the rears out for coil springs. The damper control should still work for sport and sport plus because I will keep the factory dampers . But I know once I set it for comfort and the rears do not lift I will most likely throw a rear suspension code indicating something is wrong with the rear bags . But once I cross that bridge I will definitely update everyone. But I will say. The factory rear bags I hated ALOT! But with the kw HAS up front and the rears lowered 2" front lowered 2.25" coupled with front upper strut bar and rear lower subframe bar with suspension mode in sport or sport plus and even in comfortable , but I'll give my exact impression based off sport plus. The car handles and feels so much better I am almost willing to forget the idea of adding coils . The only reason I will even add coils in the rear is because I love data and improvements so I have to atleast see if it will indeed make a difference. It's a no brainer the coils will always handle better as far as taking turns and handling. But my point will be to see if it allows more grip and bite on all 4 tires now that I have limited slip diffs upfront and in the rear
Got ya. I was thinking you went full blown V1/2 or 3 KW coilovers.
I'd love to see some sort of a way to delete the air suspension in these cars as they did in the E55s.
02-04-2023, 10:06 PM
