It's 5 coolant lines, and if I were in your situation, I'd replace 3 of them. I'll use reference numbers from the above pdf for simplicity. Lines 10, 20, and 250 are the plastic ones that break easily. Since they share clamps and a bolt on the turbo side, 10 and 20 should probably just be done at the same time if either is damaged. I'd also go ahead and replace 250 since it has to come off to replace 20. Be careful removing the aluminum line (200) from the back of 250, and you should be able to get away with just replacing the o-rings on it. For the rings, "027 997 0645" appears to be the part number that's actually readily available. I wish I had some tips on getting those lines out of the turbo, but I left them installed on my car since they're still fairly new.

For anyone else replacing the cam solenoids, it is possible to access the bolts for the filter housing without completely removing those two coolant lines. I disconnected them from the water pump and unbolted the two brackets, and was able to flex them enough to get a tool past them. I wouldn't say this is the best method because of how easily the lines are damaged, but it is possible. In my case, the previous owner replaced the coolant lines at around 55k miles, and the pump started leaking on me around 70k.

I discovered this dreaded oil leak in my car a couple months ago. There was quite a bit of oil in the cam sensor connectors and a small amount in the solenoid connectors. The rest of the top side of the harness was clean, but I haven't checked that sensor on the bottom of the engine. I replaced the cam sensors at the time, and just cleaned out the connectors on the solenoids. I just replaced the solenoids this week, and the connectors were all still clean.

Being curious about why these fail, I hacked apart one of the old sensors to see if I could figure anything out. I initially thought there were unnecessary holes in the sensor, but it all appears to be sealed. The only thing I've found so far is several large air bubbles in the plastic, which makes me think it was an injection molding problem.

 

How did you unbolt the second bracket near the turbo? From the top or under neath? Just loosing the bolt is enough or I have to completely remove the bracket? Some had to remove the AC compressor to reach this bracket.

Searching for 250 in the diagram, part # 157-200-00-51, it came up 157-200-01-51 but when I select this part, it says not fit for my car. I will have to remove it and bring it to the dealer.


This is the second bracket by the turbo that holds the 2 coolant lines.

 

I used a flex head ratcheting wrench on the top bolt of the bracket, 8mm 12 point. It was still a pain, not much room to swing the wrench.

That's the correct part number for the center line. I bought it from FCP Euro because of their lifetime replacement deal.

 

Guys, only 1 bolt on the turbo which holds both aluminum lines, correct? Any tips on how to remove them? I tried to pry off without lucks.

 

Yes one bolt and the top one comes off first. They are tough but just an oring.

 

You may have to use a big screw driver or pry tool to move the lines out from the turbo. They can get stuck. You will probably damage the old lines working them out but since you are replacing them, it isn’t a problem.

 

I just wanted to make sure not to break them and the broken pieces get stuck inside just like I did with the other plastic end. Thanks guys,

 

The lines are metal on the turbo side so they won’t break like plastic. They have two rubber o-rings on each line - that’s what seals them to the turbo.

 

It's not easy to insert the 2 newlines back to the turbo. Any tips? Should i insert from the front or turbo side? Thank you so much!!

 

I used an o-ring lubricant to make it easier and then used a pry bar to leverage them in. Definitely takes some effort.

 

I meant I can't put these lines back to where they are because of their shape. I had to straighten the lines when I removed them.

 

I put them in from the front on top and moved them down. It took some maneuvering to get them in correctly. I had to keep trying different ways and eventually got them in. The AC line gets in the way.

 

The project is taking too long. Started to put thing back together yesterday and i don't remember the location of this bracket. I searchfor part number A1571800240 but there is no description. Does anyone know what it is? Thank you.

 

driver side top of engine on block, standing off to hold I think the oil pipe.

 

In bottom of pic

 

Looks like the oils cooler line bracket to the right of the oil filter housing on top.

 

By the yellow lines at the bottom of the pic where it holds the 2 oil lines? Now I know where it was but still not 100% sure about the position and angle. Do have a clearer picture? My first time tackled a big project like this. Should have taken lots of pictures before removed anything. Much appreciate!

 

Finally, I got this project completed. I let the engine ran for 20 minutes until it reached operating temperature. Checked under the car and found no leak, no error on dashboard either. I have not put the bracket holding the oil lines back in yet, will search for a picture later, no big deal. I feel really good to get this done. Thank you everyone for helping me out, especially Code7rpd, and Joe, and many others like Baltistyle, Chassis, SilverE5588, log, JEC_E63S, ..... I really want to get a beer for every one :-) This forum rocks!!!

 

You're a better man than I am for sure!!! I wouldn't even begin to try to attempt this project! I'm quite handy, but I've never been an "engine guy". I stay away from engines and brakes! Everyone says brakes are simple, and they look pretty simple and straight forward, but if they ever fail..... hell, I want that burden on someone else!!!! Great job though, glad it all came together finally for you and it all works as it should. Mine is supposed to be ready today or tomorrow finally as well. I think this is week 3 it's been at the shop. I don't know if I'm more excited to get the car back or more scared to get the call it's ready and have to stroke that check. If you were local to GA, I'd definitely grab that beer with ya, chances are I'm going to need it to be hard liquor though... lol (and you may have to spot me.. 😂😂 )

 

when you pick up your car do you mind asking the tech or whomever if oil in harness can cause a p0420 code. That’s what my dealership is telling me but doesn’t sound right.

 

sorry, no picture ability as my car is in because of a deer….. that pic was in my phone. If you look in the area you will see two clamps around the pipes that will have holes and they may help you align the bracket. Also if you look down at the block while standing at driver front wheel, right at the corner you will see I think three empty holes and it aligns with two of them. They are on the edge, right behind the cam end cap.

 

Will do my friend! As I am sure you have seen online, I found this. Looks like the replaced the CC and it still wasn't the issue as you said, they mention O2 sensor next- then the rest is electrical.... which very well could be from oil in the ECU causing a short. But I will ask to confirm as well.

 

I still cannot figure out how to put this bracket back. I have tried many different angles and it still doesn't fit. If you have a moment, can I see what yours looks like? Thank you.

 

Car in the shop...and its kinda a hidden spot. First lay it in the car as int he pic. Turn it 90 degrees counter clockwise. the two metal capture tabs on the bracket line up with the two tube clamps on the oil cooler lines. This tabs need to be rotated so they are parallel with the front of the car/ engine. Screws go through the clamp into the bracket. The two open holes on the bracket in the bottom left will have screws go through them to attach to the corner of the engine. In the pic, the screws would enter that part of the bracket from right to left. They will enter the engine strait down. So think after you rotate 90 to the left, orient so the bracket screws go strait down. Also thats four screws and I honestly cannot remember off the top of my head if a last screw then goes into the side.

 

Finally! You gave me some good hints. The AC line blocks the view of the 2 ports at the corner of the engine so I didn't know where to attach the bracket to. Thank you so much Baltistyle!!