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Those are the infamous turbo coolant lines. Be careful moving them. Depending on your mileage, they may be brittle. You will have to loosen the clamps to give you enough room to maneuver the oil filter housing out. Not sure if you will need to disconnect the bolt that holds it into the water pump. You may have enough wiggle room the slide the filter housing out.
One last bottom right screw of the oil housing left, the turbo coolant lines block its access. I removed the bolts and the clamp, but it still doesn't give me enough room to reach that last screw!
Found a video on how to remove the turbo coolant line on M278. Wow, I have to do all of these to get to the bottom bolts of the oil filter housing? Lots of effort! I might break a few things while doing this.
Not sure if you can just slightly move the line up enough to get the Torx socket under or over the line, but be careful with moving the line too much. Replacing the driver's side lines are difficult because there isn't much room to get a socket onto the bolt head for the lines that connect to the turbo.
Since you will have to remove the lines from the turbo and access is tight, I would recommend using a 1/4 e10 external Torx socket and get this flex handle 1/4 breaker bar as it has a narrow head and will fit - otherwise you will have to raise the engine off the engine mount or make a tool (another thread shows a forum member that made a tool with a nut welded to a socket. I did the same, but found the tool below to work fine):
The driver's side is a challenge, but the passenger side is much easier. I would recommend you replace them all since you have one that was brittle and broke - they will all be susceptible to breakage...
Now that I have to replace the lines, once they are removed, I have no problem to reach the bottom screws of the oil filter housing. The new challenge is how to replace these lines. Thank you very much for your kindly help!
So mine is getting ALL of this stuff done as well while it's in the shop. I have to be honest, this is really leaving a bad taste in my mouth about Mercedes. Just seems like a lot of corners were cut to try and keep build cost down, while the sale price continually goes up and we pay more for crap vs. the "engineering" we were sold. The worst part is, I'm replacing all of the failing parts with the identical piece, so it's just going to do it again. I'm really kind of over this car already. Here's the 5.5 out of the car btw, you can see all of the MULTIPLE places it's leaking, even the diff has a bad seal. It's gotten almost comical.
Now that I have to replace the lines, once they are removed, I have no problem to reach the bottom screws of the oil filter housing. The new challenge is how to replace these lines. Thank you very much for your kindly help!
My car has only 32k miles, the engine still looks nice and clean, all the hoses and plastic parts are still in pretty good shape. Things are broken because of me, not because of the age of the car. This proactive job, replacing the cam shaft sensors and solenoids while they are not leaking yet, does not worth the effort in my opinion. It's too late to realize this. Replacing the sensors is easy but replacing the solenoids is much more difficult than I thought. I should have left it alone and just keep an eye on the connector. I'm at the point of no return. Good thing I got lots of helps from other members here but I also need some physical help to get it done. I called a mechanic and he refused the job because everything were already removed and it's hard for him to put them back where they were. I told him I will help him with that but he refused.
Thank you so much, Joe. Do you have the parts info for the coolant lines? I know you already gave me one but that was not for my car.
My vin# WDDLJ7EB3DA079389
My car has only 32k miles, the engine still looks nice and clean, all the hoses and plastic parts are still in pretty good shape. Things are broken because of me, not because of the age of the car. This proactive job, replacing the cam shaft sensors and solenoids while they are not leaking yet, does not worth the effort in my opinion. It's too late to realize this. Replacing the sensors is easy but replacing the solenoids is much more difficult than I thought. I should have left it alone and just keep an eye on the connector. I'm at the point of no return. Good thing I got lots of helps from other members here but I also need some physical help to get it done. I called a mechanic and he refused the job because everything were already removed and it's hard for him to put them back where they were. I told him I will help him with that but he refused.
You say that, but I honestly think a lot of the issue is just bad design on Mercedes' part. Preventative maintenance at 32K shouldn't be leading to broken parts and pieces when trying to remove. It's like they were designed to be a "one time use" kind of thing which is just ridiculous. Parts should come off without breaking, period. I get it on a 30 year old car or something if something breaks, but when you can't even remove something with the proper tools, there's a manufacturer issue there. I would consider myself a "handy, DIY type of guy" but there is no way in hell I would try to tackle this stuff for this very reason. (There would be open end wrenches sticking halfway out of the drywall of my garage walls after the second piece broke)
Here's the main culprit to my oil leak problems, the oil pressure solenoid. Finally exposed and out of the car.
You say that, but I honestly think a lot of the issue is just bad design on Mercedes' part. Preventative maintenance at 32K shouldn't be leading to broken parts and pieces when trying to remove. It's like they were designed to be a "one time use" kind of thing which is just ridiculous. Parts should come off without breaking, period. I get it on a 30 year old car or something if something breaks, but when you can't even remove something with the proper tools, there's a manufacturer issue there. I would consider myself a "handy, DIY type of guy" but there is no way in hell I would try to tackle this stuff for this very reason. (There would be open end wrenches sticking halfway out of the drywall of my garage walls after the second piece broke)
Here's the main culprit to my oil leak problems, the oil pressure solenoid. Finally exposed and out of the car.
I hear you bro! We paid for German Engineer and what we got is Chinese Engineer! :-)
I hear you bro! We paid for German Engineer and what we got is Chinese Engineer! :-)
EX-FREAKING-ACTLY!!!!!!!!!!! 1000% Like I told my mechanic today- "yeah, parts on my Porsche broke too, but you could at least take stuff off to fix things without having to buy 70% new parts for everything you have to take off to fix the broken part!"
Since you will have to remove the lines from the turbo and access is tight, I would recommend using a 1/4 e10 external Torx socket and get this flex handle 1/4 breaker bar as it has a narrow head and will fit - otherwise you will have to raise the engine off the engine mount or make a tool (another thread shows a forum member that made a tool with a nut welded to a socket. I did the same, but found the tool below to work fine):
The driver's side is a challenge, but the passenger side is much easier. I would recommend you replace them all since you have one that was brittle and broke - they will all be susceptible to breakage...
This is the longest thinest ratcheting tool I found for diy. It fit as well on the driver side.
You say that, but I honestly think a lot of the issue is just bad design on Mercedes' part. Preventative maintenance at 32K shouldn't be leading to broken parts and pieces when trying to remove. It's like they were designed to be a "one time use" kind of thing which is just ridiculous. Parts should come off without breaking, period. I get it on a 30 year old car or something if something breaks, but when you can't even remove something with the proper tools, there's a manufacturer issue there. I would consider myself a "handy, DIY type of guy" but there is no way in hell I would try to tackle this stuff for this very reason. (There would be open end wrenches sticking halfway out of the drywall of my garage walls after the second piece broke)
Here's the main culprit to my oil leak problems, the oil pressure solenoid. Finally exposed and out of the car.
So you you are saying this is where even a higher amount of oil was leaking into the harness? Where, what height on the engine is this sensor. Will want to inspect that area in mine.
So you you are saying this is where even a higher amount of oil was leaking into the harness? Where, what height on the engine is this sensor. Will want to inspect that area in mine.
Thanks
yep. This is where most of my oil came from. My oil was all the way up into the ECU where the harness plugs in at the top.
Where is that sensor at? Can you post a pic more zoomed out showing the location?
Here is what the tech has sent me. It’s inside the oil pump housing as I understand it. The motor is completely out and has to be to change this solenoid.
You can actually see the amount of oil on the connector itself. It looks like it’s towards the front, down at the bottom of the motor behind the bottom pulley.
Thank you so much, Joe. Do you have the parts info for the coolant lines? I know you already gave me one but that was not for my car.
My vin# WDDLJ7EB3DA079389
I am looking at this parts information, there are 11 coolant lines, average $55 each. Do I need to replace them all? I need only 2 in the front. Still having trouble to remove these 2 lines from the turbo.
I am looking at this parts information, there are 11 coolant lines, average $55 each. Do I need to replace them all? I need only 2 in the front. Still having trouble to remove these 2 lines from the turbo.
If any need to be replaced, it seems as though you'd only replace as required.
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