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HR knows their stuff! Their 15mm fits perfectly on the front and is stock factory smooth at all speeds. NO THEY STARTED VIBRATING KEEP READING
Keep in mind the ECS was smooth too but degraded after a week. The difference I see with the HR is no chamfer to wear out and start getting sloppy interfering with the wheel bore.
The HR fit is 100% flat and flush. EDIT NO THEY DO NOT KEEP READING
So far I don’t mind the extra 2.5mm sticking out vs. the 12.5mm. Looks good to me but I also like crazy stance cars with massive camber and screw on fenders .
Bonus is 15mm is no worse off for rubbing then the 12.5mm. I actually haven’t rubbed yet and probably won’t except the same extreme dips the 12.5mm rubbed on. I’ll not test that out yet lol.
Im going to give it time and if I still like the look and it’s still factory smooth I’m shaving the fenders and dropping it another 1/4”.
In these pics there’s no rear wheel spacers only front wheels. And please excuse the dirty car and tires! My driveway is under construction I drive thru mud every day.
No raising height. I think the dirt on the tires is creating an optical illusion. I still have 1/4” to 3/8” before being on KW HAS lowest setting though it’ll for sure rub too much.
I don’t know why shaving fenders doesn’t scare me. Apparently it’ll look factory. The guy I’ve been talking to might just be a really good sales guy?! https://m.facebook.com/ontariofenderroll/
I think it looks perfect with the 15mm up front! Can't wait to see it with the rear spacers on as well. Any idea how much camber you're currently running @I.T. Guy ?
After going through this entire thread a few times, I still like look of my 10 mm on the rear only I originally made in the video
10 mm in the rear seems to make an equal look front and rear
Once you go wider than 10 in the rear, then you have to widen the front to match
Now on my red car, it came with 295 from the previous owner. As a test I put on the 10 mm spacers and forced it lower, the tires definitely contacted the fenders.
You really have to take in what tires you're running anytime you're calculating your ideal offset. I do not use the tire calculators, since they use general numbers that don't take into account the variance between manufactures tires. For example with the Michelin 4s, the 295 is actually almost 3/4 of an inch wider than the 285. That means basically the tire sticks out an extra 10 mm per side on its own before spacers.
Anyway, having said all that. Have any of you found a front spacer that does not cause a vibration? I'm looking at some different wheels that may require a front spacer to achieve the correct offset and I was curious
@kenneyd It seems 7-8mm or below non hub centric spacers let the wheel still be hub centric as the spacer is narrow enough the wheel still (barely) locates on the stock hub. EDIT NOT TRUE KEEP READING POSTS
So far all spacers tested between 9mm and 12.5mm vibrate due to faulty design trying to go over the hub and provide a new wheel locating hub they fail.
The 15mm and thicker HR I posted work on front fit over the hub providing a good protrusion for the wheel to locate and do not vibrate. NOT TRUE THEY STARTED TO VIBRATE TOO KEEP READING
The more I stare at the 15’s the more I think they’ll rub with my stock wheels and 255 PS4 even with fender shaving. I’d love to pull the strut and see the actual travel arc all the way up and find the actual issues but too lazy.
10 or 12mm would be perfect but still unicorns. I’m contemplating milling 2mm of the wheel face to use the 15s but that’s getting crazy.
@kenneyd It seems 7-8mm or below non hub centric spacers let the wheel still be hub centric as the spacer is narrow enough the wheel still (barely) locates on the stock hub.
So far all spacers tested between 9mm and 12.5mm vibrate due to faulty design trying to go over the hub and provide a new wheel locating hub they fail.
The 15mm and thicker HR I posted work on front fit over the hub providing a good protrusion for the wheel to locate and do not vibrate.
The more I stare at the 15’s the more I think they’ll rub with my stock wheels and 255 PS4 even with fender shaving. I’d love to pull the strut and see the actual travel arc all the way up and find the actual issues but too lazy.
10 or 12mm would be perfect but still unicorns. I’m contemplating milling 2mm of the wheel face to use the 15s but that’s getting crazy.
Just FYI. I have personally ran 8mm LUGcentric spacers in the front and they DO vibrate >90mph. There is just 2mm of hub left for the wheel to "sit on" (Posted a pic of it somewhere in this thread). I have kept an eye on this thread and I am pretty sure that the only common size spacers that anyone has yet to try is the 5mm.
Just FYI. I have personally ran 8mm LUGcentric spacers in the front and they DO vibrate >90mph. There is just 2mm of hub left for the wheel to "sit on" (Posted a pic of it somewhere in this thread). I have kept an eye on this thread and I am pretty sure that the only common size spacers that anyone has yet to try is the 5mm.
Which ones don’t vibrate just the 3mm? Lmk I’ll edit my post
The Supreme wheel spacer looks like that but in black. Still had the annoying vibrations are 90mph
Originally Posted by I.T. Guy
Where's the ignore button?
Well I think you were right. I just had vibrations at 100mph on a short stretch of off-ramp
Seens like 90 is ok but the vibration moved up to 100mph. I may have been excited 90 was good and then blowing by 100 too fast. Will test more when safe there’s too much traffic right now.
Nuts.
I also got my tires nicely coated with driveway dirt and purposely hit the 35mph dip by my house that always makes it rub unless I do the lowlife chicane. Now I’m checking with a flashlight if shaving the mm off the fender where it’s touching will even fix it. It’s so hard to tell guessing the suspension travel arc.
I’m about $600 into this craziness!
What is it with spacers? People do it and never complain. Do they never cruise at speed?!
Will report back after a longer drive. Doesn’t look good.
"3: Its possible that the wheels didn't seat correctly on the hubs. Did you lower the car to the ground before torquing the wheels? I have had better luck torquing the lugs before putting substantial weight on the wheel (i.e. lowering the car more than was necessary to keep the wheel from turning)"
I have always believed this. I always torque before full weight of vehicle on the wheel.
"3: Its possible that the wheels didn't seat correctly on the hubs. Did you lower the car to the ground before torquing the wheels? I have had better luck torquing the lugs before putting substantial weight on the wheel (i.e. lowering the car more than was necessary to keep the wheel from turning)"
I have always believed this. I always torque before full weight of vehicle on the wheel.
I barely touch wheel to the ground just so it doesn’t spin. But, I only snug up before that. I’m going to clean re-mount now without touching ground at all. Then I’m going out and test it.
The HR are night and day vs. the other spacers but I did feel small vibrating at 100 today.
Here’s another good thread - new bushings solved his problem. They talk about the famous chamfer too:
If it's pre-existing, then why does the vibration goes away when you remove the spacers?
apparently the spacers amplify a pre existing condition that is undetectable prior to the spacers... was too subtle for you to detect it
The litmus test would be to get a whole bunch of brand new cars and put a whole series of different spacers on them and drive them at various speeds and see if vibrations occur, given that they were installed perfectly. I haven't seen that article yet please let me know if you see it and send me the link.
Last edited by PeterUbers; 10-02-2022 at 11:29 AM.
Ok I used a razor blade scraper to clean everything, measured and re torqued everything.
Right at 90mph 145kph a shimmy starts not bad like ECS but not smooth.
The only thing I can figure is even the HR aren’t deep enough - check out the part that has to go over the hub it is 1.2mm too shallow where the inside diameter gets narrow. However, I’m not seeing any interference marks and the spacer appears flush. See last two depth measurements. (It looks like I’m not holding it right that’s because I took the measurements precisely with two hands properly then balanced for the picture to give the view of what I was measuring.)
Final test I’m going to remove everything and -really- pay attention at 90mph on the same stretch of roads.
The dust cap is indeed 1-2mm too tall and the spacer recess of 13mm is not enough to accommodate the 14-15mm height. The spacers do not sit flush. Close but no cigar.
If anyone wants to grind off the lip on the dust cap…
Im throwing in the towel. No spacers no shaving fenders. I’ll just get 20” rims one day.
If anyone wants a ton of spacers and bolts pm me lol.
It’s been fun!
Anyone want to modify dust caps?! That caps ridge diameter if ground down would maybe solve it.
See the dust cap ridge hits the chamfer and doesn’t let the spacer sit completely flush. It feels like it’s ok because that 1-2mm difference is spread across the radius of the spacer and such a tiny amount. On very careful inspection it does wobble ever so slightly. I’m not even sure I can feel it but I can hear it when pressing the spacer side to side and that score mark on my marker line is very telling.
09-29-2022, 10:26 PM
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