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I only made one lap at the track with the Stage 2 tune and the always on pump mod.
Check out the IAT of 102C ouch that's like 215F can that be real? It only made it up to 13 PSI too.
Result: 11.8 @ 118mph. Ooof. The silver lining? The announcer said "Look who brought a grocery getter to the track" then "Oh wait look that, that wagon is winning" and I beat a new Corvette Stingray. Heh.
Can anyone post a clean 1/4 mile run I can compare some numbers? I'm learning and don't know where spark etc. should be compared to mine. But, I'm guessing my problem right now is the heat. I'm not sure where to go from here except handing the keys over to a shop. Any ideas of stuff I can try? Sucky part is our season just ended, I probably won't get back to the track until the spring
Your car is heatsoaking so bad and pulling alot of timing to save itself. I would avoid getting on it until you figure out why this is happening
Your car is heatsoaking so bad and pulling alot of timing to save itself. I would avoid getting on it until you figure out why this is happening
Agree I was relieved "nothing happened" and stopped hosing on it. My thoughts are this has been here for a long time not just from recent mods. I just never logged or went to the track and never knew. I guess I need to find a shop. I doubt the dealer will be interested in solving this.
You said it yourself ... stock trapped 121... and after downpipes.. car immediately felt slower. There may be something there. bb wouldn't hurt anything to cause this
The timing pull can cause high IAT's, thus the thinking may be reversed. Your IC was working fine stock.
you just got new plugs? Colder and gapped and indexed properly?
Curious what you find is the issue
Last edited by PeterUbers; 10-09-2022 at 10:14 PM.
First thing I thought of is when I did the always on pump mod maybe I blew the coolant circ pump fuse today making the problem even worse. This link says it's fuse 46 or 87. I don't have a fuse 87 and 46 is good can anyone confirm if they have a fuse 87? https://fuse-box.info/mercedes-benz/...uses-and-relay
You said it yourself ... stock trapped 121... and after downpipes.. car immediately felt slower. There may be something there. bb wouldn't hurt anything to cause this
The timing pull can cause high IAT's, thus the thinking may be reversed. Your IC was working fine stock.
you just got new plugs? Colder and gapped and indexed properly?
Curious what you find is the issue
Stock new plugs done at dealer
The thing is I'm not 100% sure the IC was working fine stock because the last time I did a stock 1/4 mile run was in 2020. The problem could have crept in the last two years I would have not noticed daily driving with little bursts here and there. Now I'm replaying everything over in my head and second guessing everything about my butt dyno and the downpipes.
Stock new plugs done at dealer
The thing is I'm not 100% sure the IC was working fine stock because the last time I did a stock 1/4 mile run was in 2020. The problem could have crept in the last two years I would have not noticed daily driving with little bursts here and there. Now I'm replaying everything over in my head and second guessing everything about my butt dyno and the downpipes.
I bet it's simple. Finding it is not, for me.
You can put ur hand over the relay that controllers the pump after a drive and it will be vibrating if it is working. Can also turn it on with a scan tool to "bleed" the system after any repairs. I did this when I installed my plm intercooler
Hi. I did blow my fuse when I try to figure out wiring when upgrading my Bosch 010 to CWA100.2. The USA mighty bolt on adapter harness was wrong and I did make my own. Do you have fuse 70 in your rear fuse box? Sounds like your iC pump is not running at all. https://fuse-box.info/mercedes-benz/...uses-and-relay. I Know this is a CLS fuse diagram but its worth a try. I hope you can solve this.
Is your intercooler pump working, and overflow reservoir showing it as full?
At idle, with the always-on mod, you should be able to see the water/coolant bubbling in the overflow reservoir.
I unbolted the ground wire from the mod and cold started this morning while watching the open overflow and manually held the wire to ground on and off and could see no difference in the amount of bubbling in the reservoir. It is bubbling a little.
I’ll keep looking it’s not obvious to me if it’s running or not. I will need someone’s experience to help - I’ll be calling my dealer when they open tomorrow. I trust the tech there if I don’t find it myself by then.
It’s Thanksgiving here so not a lot of time today since I already got a pass for the track yesterday
Hi. I did blow my fuse when I try to figure out wiring when upgrading my Bosch 010 to CWA100.2. The USA mighty bolt on adapter harness was wrong and I did make my own. Do you have fuse 70 in your rear fuse box? Sounds like your iC pump is not running at all. https://fuse-box.info/mercedes-benz/...uses-and-relay. I Know this is a CLS fuse diagram but its worth a try. I hope you can solve this.
My diagram online shows it’s 46 or 87, I don’t have an 87 and my 46 is good I even tested with multimeter in case my eyes are broken.
Appointment booked for Monday along with my A service.
"Tell Us More - GUEST STATES THE INTAKE AIR TEMP IS OVER 100 CELEIS - CAR HAS NO TIME AND IS REALLY SHOW"
lol
C-E-L-S-I-U-S
T-I-M-I-N-G
S-L-O-W
Well dang I was too fast and already paid the Renntech tax, pump is on it's way. Dealer will throw the PLM cooler in at the same time. Man they are cool, letting me order aftermarket parts instead of their OEM.
Hopefully the Renntech kit comes with the right brackets by now...
Well dang I was too fast and already paid the Renntech tax, pump is on it's way. Dealer will throw the PLM cooler in at the same time. Man they are cool, letting me order aftermarket parts instead of their OEM.
Hopefully the Renntech kit comes with the right brackets by now...
I would cancel that order. It's a huge price difference between the 2 lol
FWIW< the Renntech pump is NOT an upgrade or higher flowing than the original 14-16 E63 pump, its the same thing. It is an upgrade to the previous Bosch 010 IC pump.
FWIW< the Renntech pump is NOT an upgrade or higher flowing than the original 14-16 E63 pump, its the same thing. It is an upgrade to the previous Bosch 010 IC pump.
Hmph
So do I need another harness/splicing/anything with that one?
Hmph
So do I need another harness/splicing/anything with that one?
No, it should be a direct bolt-on; the harness and brackets are needed because it was an upgrade to the Bosch 010, which is a different IC pump entirely.
The Renntech pump you listed is the same Pierburg pump i linked at FCP Euro.
You were running without a working intercooler pump all this time?
Yep. No idea for how long. Good thing I did some mods and logged. I might have never known had I never modded to go faster and ended up slower.
The DTC code P026A - Charge Air Cooler Efficiency Below Threshold (Pending) was in the DTC list but never ever set off a CEL light! Who knows how long it's been in the computer just hanging back. Wow. Could have been a big "whoops" one day.
What is everyone else's timing WOT doing a 1/4 run? Anyone care to share? In 4th gear it was only doing
3 degrees advance
Throttle only 87%
Boost is a lame 12.3 PSI
Anyone else have any log files to compare what it should be Stage 2?
Check out these temps at the end of the run. 102C Oof.
I'm going to log once a month now no matter what. Be safe out there!!!
No, it should be a direct bolt-on; the harness and brackets are needed because it was an upgrade to the Bosch 010, which is a different IC pump entirely.
The Renntech pump you listed is the same Pierburg pump i linked at FCP Euro.
Thank you cancelling seemed easy enough.
How do we all know its the same?
So is there no improvement over stock? How does Renntech claim such an improvement?
If that's the case, can't I just let the dealer install theirs?