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Just wait till you get this sorted out... in our current cool "boost weather" with the mods you have currently ... you're mid to high ten's car ... it'll seem ridiculously fast when this is all dialed in
i wish we had a soft CEL... something pastel orange and more pleasant .. indicating these other issues which need to be addressed right away but don't warrant stopping the car, pimp mode, or a tow.
Fortunately however these ECUs are relatively smart and have a way of pulling back timing etc. etc. to try to protect the engine a bit, hence your restricted data points you identified when you were doing the logging. Once you get a misfire however, this engine doesn't seem to like that and can be significantly problematic
Last edited by PeterUbers; 10-18-2022 at 07:11 PM.
The pump in that car must be CWA100.2 like Robert said. I haven't heard that any CWA100 have gone bad. Have anyone else? If I remember correct that pump did stop working when trying to rewire it to run 100%. Are you really sure that there are not any fuse problems etc. Before order and change a new pump?
I also did believe that my new CWA100 was bad, when I upgrade my Bosch 010 to it. Some lovely fellow enthusiast in whats up group did help me out then. I just needed to find the right fuse and it worked nice.
The pump in that car must be CWA100.2 like Robert said. I haven't heard that any CWA100 have gone bad. Have anyone else? If I remember correct that pump did stop working when trying to rewire it to run 100%. Are you really sure that there are not any fuse problems etc. Before order and change a new pump?
I also did believe that my new CWA100 was bad, when I upgrade my Bosch 010 to it. Some lovely fellow enthusiast in whats up group did help me out then. I just needed to find the right fuse and it worked nice.
This is a fear of mine
Before I tried the "always on" mod car was seeing 50-58C IAT and after mod the next day I was seeing 100C. So my fear is I blew the pump myself, will replace it, and still be slow with the new pump. LOL. I just don't know enough at this point about logging and this platform. What are other people's IAT's that are running high 10s? How different from ambient?
From dealer service work:
"Connect Star and Charger, perform quick test. Found Fault Code P023B00 actuation of coolant pump of charge air cooler has a short to ground. (this is from the always on mod IMHO which I removed before taking in to service) Raise Vehicle, inspect pump. Found connector stuck within pump. Found some corrosion and burn marking within connector. Check 12V and ground, found 12V not available. Check fuse, found fuse burnt. Renew fuse found pump shorted causing fuse to burn. Recommend replacement of pump and fuse."
I really hope the IC pump is the main problem, otherwise I will still be chasing only 87% throttle and very low boost PSI and power.
This is a fear of mine
Before I tried the "always on" mod car was seeing 50-58C IAT and after mod the next day I was seeing 100C. So my fear is I blew the pump myself, will replace it, and still be slow with the new pump. LOL. I just don't know enough at this point about logging and this platform. What are other people's IAT's that are running high 10s? How different from ambient?
From dealer service work:
"Connect Star and Charger, perform quick test. Found Fault Code P023B00 actuation of coolant pump of charge air cooler has a short to ground. (this is from the always on mod IMHO which I removed before taking in to service) Raise Vehicle, inspect pump. Found connector stuck within pump. Found some corrosion and burn marking within connector. Check 12V and ground, found 12V not available. Check fuse, found fuse burnt. Renew fuse found pump shorted causing fuse to burn. Recommend replacement of pump and fuse."
I really hope the IC pump is the main problem, otherwise I will still be chasing only 87% throttle and very low boost PSI and power.
~87% throttle is normal max. It's the percentage of the total voltage range where the throttle reaches full open.
@I.T. Guy I did found one 0kp/h - 202kp/h ( 0mp/h-125mp/h) HPtuners log. Ambient temperature 21C, 34C IAT when starting the pull and end of the pull IAT was 44C. So 10C rise during the pull. And that pull was done with my old Bosch 010 pump with pump mod. I haven't log now with my current CWA100.2 pump. But I have made new personal Dragy record and run 60-130mp/h 7,59s after pump swap. So maybe the pump swap did help me out there and of course the pump mod also.
Thank you cancelling seemed easy enough.
How do we all know its the same?
So is there no improvement over stock? How does Renntech claim such an improvement?
If that's the case, can't I just let the dealer install theirs?
A friend locally has the Renntech pump on his 14 E63, he bought it that way, and it is the same pump as what comes stock on the 14-16 E63...albeit with Renntech branding.
Renntech's claim is based upon replacing the older Bosch 010 IC pump that came stock pre-2014.
Hopefully there isnt a wiring issue that's causing a short to ground after the always-on mod was removed.
You can let the dealer install their pump, but didnt you say it would take a while to come from Germany?
A friend locally has the Renntech pump on his 14 E63, he bought it that way, and it is the same pump as what comes stock on the 14-16 E63...albeit with Renntech branding.
Renntech's claim is based upon replacing the older Bosch 010 IC pump that came stock pre-2014.
Hopefully there isnt a wiring issue that's causing a short to ground after the always-on mod was removed.
You can let the dealer install their pump, but didnt you say it would take a while to come from Germany?
Yes in Canada the dealer said 2-3 weeks out for the pump. I asked if they would install a better aftermarket pump if I sourced it and they said "Yes for sure let us know when you get it we will book you in". I <heart> my dealer
Dealer pump was just under $900, FCP Euro pump was $570, and the RENNTech pump was $1350. I let the RENNtech order stand and it's on it's way. They were really nice and going to cancel it no problem. When they asked why I I wanted to cancel I told them I found the Pierburg 0005000486 and they said "Oh that's the OEM replacement - ours flows 3.5x more and ours comes with the harness". So, if anyone knows how to test the flow of the pump when it gets here let me know! It will be interesting to see what other markings are on it (if any) besides RENNtech and what the pump actually looks like and flows.
Yes in Canada the dealer said 2-3 weeks out for the pump. I asked if they would install a better aftermarket pump if I sourced it and they said "Yes for sure let us know when you get it we will book you in". I <heart> my dealer
Dealer pump was just under $900, FCP Euro pump was $570, and the RENNTech pump was $1350. I let the RENNtech order stand and it's on it's way. They were really nice and going to cancel it no problem. When they asked why I I wanted to cancel I told them I found the Pierburg 0005000486 and they said "Oh that's the OEM replacement - ours flows 3.5x more and ours comes with the harness". So, if anyone knows how to test the flow of the pump when it gets here let me know! It will be interesting to see what other markings are on it (if any) besides RENNtech and what the pump actually looks like and flows.
The CWA100 or CWA100-2 is a performance enhanced version of the CWA50.
The dimensions and the weight is nearly the same.
This closes the gap between the CWA50 and the CWA200.
Suitable for instance for intercooling in combustion engine vehicles and cooling of various systems in electrical vehicles.
Specifications:
Name: "Pierburg CWA100-2"
Operation voltage: 8-16 volts
Weight: approx. 1.0 kg
Current consumption: 8.5A max. / (approx. 0.2mA in standby mode)
the Renntech pump and what you have now on your car are the same cwa100.2, they are talking about the older bosch pump which has less flow,
you can found it new Pierberg branded for less then 300 euro from Germany, but before check your fuses and harness pins.
Car waiting on a pump still since Renntech took that one back. They were super nice and helpful even with the return, so I have to give them some kudos as they seem like a great company to deal with. Thank you all for the info on it being the same pump.
I got tired of waiting for my dealer appointment and made an appointment with ECC Tuned for next week.
Man I can't wait to feel how the car drives all sorted with the stage 2. I'm rushing to get it done now before snow flies and tires change so I can do some Dragy.
Crossing my fingers....
I got tired of waiting for my dealer appointment and made an appointment with ECC Tuned for next week.
Man I can't wait to feel how the car drives all sorted with the stage 2. I'm rushing to get it done now before snow flies and tires change so I can do some Dragy.
Crossing my fingers....
Going s2 with a broken pump is a disaster waiting to happen. More power means more heat!
ECC is going to do the pump, the PLM heat exchanger, and then sort out whatever else might be wrong then dyno it. My ECU and TCU are from ECC via Jose at Boosted Benz anyhow so why not go to the source to find out what's up.
I'm a slow learner. I should have just called ECC on the way home from the track.