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That shows what marginal oil pressure does: one roller got flattened the one next to it survived.
Why is that ?
I think that the dry front pump plunger got seized and increased pressure on its roller-follower.
That must have stressed the B1 intake VVT gear lock and chain. That part can positively be ignored with wait-see so long HPFP are fixed.
So 2x HPFP + Rollers.
Camshaft can be polished smooth.
(VVT/chain only optional unless Xentry shows chain stretched)
++++ Fuel imbalance:
Based on HPFP issue I would bet there were fuel pressure issues: imbalanced, unable to build up.
Now we have a physical explanation for that HPFP condition.
Wow, I haven’t noticed this. Should I contact my mechanic about this? Looks like it needs polishing.
Wow, I haven’t noticed this.
Should I contact my mechanic about this?
Looks like it needs polishing.
I am sure the technician who rebuilt the engine clearly so it as well. Camshaft looks salvageable with fine sanding/polishing. (if the cam has to get replaced then swap VVT gear with it for good measure).
-- Perhaps what was happening with HPFP is what ultimately stopped the engine.
-- Did a weaker rail pressure leaned out one bank of cylinders causing the overheated pistons to waste cylinders on one side only?
The issue on hand is both the HPFP + roller got wasted by unfavorably dry conditions. A text book example against the low oil pressure.
When these pumps are oil cooled and lubbed the rattlesnake is not as loud and definitely sound smoother (500Mi).
++++ SCAN RAIL PRESSURES:
Have a look at your ECU rail pressure... nearly in synch or apart from each other?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-07-2023 at 04:02 PM.
UPDATE: After the whole engine was completely assembled, shortly before oil was added and first start was about to happen, the mechanic realized that there is some dirt or residue inside the engine by looking through opened oil cap into the engine where the timing chain is. The whole engine was stripped down again down to the crankshaft and connecting rods fully exposed. He is saying that it is no problem and within couple of days he will put it all together again, which I find very hard to believe. More likely a month. He also said he is going to clean the whole engine again due to this residue being still present, which surprised him.
At this point, I am dead tired of this whole situation, of this car and this engine. I made the decision to get rid of the car very fast after it's done. I am just too sick of this BS and I am also done with Mercedes cars for good. If anyone is looking for a fully rebuilt 0 kilometers / miles driven solid Stage 2+ S63 Coupe (2015, 55k miles, Edition 1, full specs, CCB, Burm 3D, Swarovski, etc.), let me know. I can probably arrange to ship it to the US as well - not sure if EU spec can be driven in the US, but I am willing to pass the ownership of this piece of crap to someone else willing to live with it. The engine is completely new, Darton MID Sleeves, new pumps, new injectors, everything besides turbochargers is new. Just like in Tasos videos. Anyone interested PM me.
So, wouldn't he be cleaning every part before it being assembled? Unless there was some type of negligence, how can their be residue? Something doesn't seem to make sense?
UPDATE: After the whole engine was completely assembled, shortly before oil was added and first start was about to happen, the mechanic realized that there is some dirt or residue inside the engine by looking through opened oil cap into the engine where the timing chain is. The whole engine was stripped down again down to the crankshaft and connecting rods fully exposed. He is saying that it is no problem and within couple of days he will put it all together again, which I find very hard to believe. More likely a month. He also said he is going to clean the whole engine again due to this residue being still present, which surprised him.
At this point, I am dead tired of this whole situation, of this car and this engine. I made the decision to get rid of the car very fast after it's done. I am just too sick of this BS and I am also done with Mercedes cars for good. If anyone is looking for a fully rebuilt 0 kilometers / miles driven solid Stage 2+ S63 Coupe (2015, 55k miles, Edition 1, full specs, CCB, Burm 3D, Swarovski, etc.), let me know. I can probably arrange to ship it to the US as well - not sure if EU spec can be driven in the US, but I am willing to pass the ownership of this piece of crap to someone else willing to live with it. The engine is completely new, Darton MID Sleeves, new pumps, new injectors, everything besides turbochargers is new. Just like in Tasos videos. Anyone interested PM me.
drive it for a couple weeks and report back - maybe you'll change your mind. You seem like a good guy with lots of patience, more than me, and you may be pleasantly surprised once you're driving it again.$0.01
on the other hand I don't at all blame you for wanting to not even look in this car's direction ever again, and you deserve a way better experience. $0.01
just my $0.02
Last edited by PeterUbers; 12-22-2023 at 09:36 AM.
Yeah, the waiting time of 8 months quite ruined the experience. I am supposed to receive it in a week from now, we will see. I am selling it no matter what. What do you think about this video? I got it from Tasos.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by CZ 75
There’s a whole thread on indexing further down the front page of this forum. The consensus is that nobody so far(from all the posts I sifted through) has been able to properly index all 8 plugs in their M157. Secondly, there are many guys who are tuned that have attested that despite not being indexed properly, they have put on tens of thousands of worry free miles on their cars.
Some guys think that running hot plugs may lead to issues such as misfires. OP did mention it in his previous post. So who knows.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by I.T. Guy
I sat on this for 4 years in disbelief MB covered it. I did not want to jinx anything. Now that I'm selling the car and doing full disclosure to buyers I might as well post it here too.
@GMBALL our stories on how it happened and how we were driving are very similar...
I just did my oem Bosch plugs 2 nights ago, gapped at 0.022 and I was able to get all 8 to the 10 o clock position without any shaving of any washers or anything.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Mojo20032004
I just did my oem Bosch plugs 2 nights ago, gapped at 0.022 and I was able to get all 8 to the 10 o clock position without any shaving of any washers or anything.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Mojo20032004
Open end was facing 10, closed at 30 lol
I know it is hard to be that precise by looking, but 10 o'clock is greater than 45°. The indexing must be within 45° of the fuel injector, plus or minus. 10:30 to 1:30 is the range you want to index.
Today I went to see the progress, we are about one week away from the first start. I looked at my camshafts and both sides look a bit “scratched” or at least the surface is visibly different where there is friction vs where there is no friction. Mechanic says it’s normal and nothing I should worry about, as it does not influence anything related to its function.
If you look at the photos, would you say this is okay-ish or would you consider this as a problem?
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
I feel for you, @GMBALL ! What a nightmare! But what are your options?
If it was me, these lyrics would come to mind.
I'm just a poor boy, I need no sympathy Because I'm easy come, easy go, little high, little low Any way the wind blows doesn't really matter to me, to me
2004 E55 AMG, 2006 CLS63, 2004 ML55, 2014 E350 sport
Originally Posted by I.T. Guy
I just watched this video and it explains how the M157 bend rods. It's not the material, it's the design - from the piston all the way to the way clearances are on the rods:
Thats not the entire story. The rods on these m157 and 278 are actually bent from the factory a tiny amount the amount of failures out there shows us how bad this issue is and was and likely how bent the rod in that particular engine likely was. When you load them up especially when tuned (or even stock on the m157's) thats when you find out just how bent they are. And you bend them even more then you get destroyed cylinders.
Tasos himself has stated he has built engines for customers using used rods (the straightest ones he could find from like 5 engines) and those engines didnt have issues even tuned.
The 278 is less likely to bend rods because of the smaller bore and longer piston skirts. Seems most of the bore scoring on those is from worn injectors or oiling issues.
Actually stock engine I suspect the 2015 278 is the one to buy to boost up without opening it because of better bore liner material too. But the rods were still bent..... so theres still a chance you have issues.
All the m157/278 had the chance of bent rods throughout production.
Last edited by austingtir; 01-03-2024 at 08:53 PM.
Guys, do you think I should get ARP L19 head studs? They are almost 2k USD. I thought they were included in the price, but I was wrong. I am not really sure what benefits they bring besides less chance of leaking?
That's an easy answer: IF you plan on making more boost (and you do) and you don't want to take a chance that stock bolts may fail, allowing even the slightest amount of pressure outside the confines of the cylinders... THEN you want the upgraded head studs. Why would you save $2K only to have a potential failure zone, when you could rule out that potential simply by upgrading the hardware? If it was me who was doing what you're doing, I'd be like, "get them upgrades in that motor." Don't play. There's nothing quite like being overbuilt... it's the ultimate insurance policy in my mind.
12-07-2023, 02:46 AM
