When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
There was a commenter on Kenney's video of the mod saying he was a MB tech. He stated that on a lot of cars this code is now updated to throw a CEL. So he may have a newer car and has had MB update his firmware knowingly or unknowingly, because if they're anything like BMW/BMW Motorrad, they will update your firmware anytime you take it into the dealership for service without notifying you.
That, or indeed he does have an issue or maybe his solenoid was indeed stuck in the position we don't want it in and it somehow caused some other incident. No idea unless he gets a code reader or XENTRY on it.
I saw that comment too. He said he has mostly seen it on 4 cylinder models and hybrids. Do we know if the S63 is a pre facelift M157 model or post facelift M177?
Per my BlueDriver software, the oil control circuit does not come up as a CEL code to check against. Right now, I do have active codes for the CEL - an intermittent coil issue on cylinder 5 that happened Saturday (open circuit - need to replace the coil it’s looking like).
The oil circuit code only shows up if do a deeper scan of the system.
Does anyone have tech documents like for the m274 that discusses what the tech is recommended to do on the w212 amg if the shadow code pops up for solenoid malfunction?
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
XENTRY does include trouble-shooting procedures. But it's many steps and actions, not something to easily print out. Sometimes the troubleshooting steps actually require activating certain functions and modules as part of the testing procedures. That's why, in addition to a portable Mercedes-specific scan tool, everyone should have a copy of XENTRY/DAS, even if they don't actually connect to their car. The simulation mode lets you walk through scanning and troubleshooting. Ideally, you do want a reliable copy and a quality C4 multiplexer.
XENTRY does include trouble-shooting procedures. But it's many steps and actions, not something to easily print out. Sometimes the troubleshooting steps actually require activating certain functions and modules as part of the testing procedures. That's why, in addition to a portable Mercedes-specific scan tool, everyone should have a copy of XENTRY/DAS, even if they don't actually connect to their car. The simulation mode lets you walk through scanning and troubleshooting. Ideally, you do want a reliable copy and a quality C4 multiplexer.
and without printing it - like the m274 - does it say to ignore the shadow code?
Last edited by PeterUbers; Dec 26, 2023 at 08:05 PM.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Here are screen shots of the procedure for P06DA00. There is no mention of ignoring the code in these procedures. The document above is XENTRY TIPS, which is a different module that I don't have access to.
Here are the screen shots. There is no mention here about ignoring the code, but in the XENTRY Tips, which I don't have access to.
No, you have to do it from the bottom. Just did it on mine and was really hard to do. Use a phone camera and put it up next to the power steering motor on the passenger side of the motor where you can see the side of the crank pulley and behind the IC. Use a hooked tool to grab the little silver clip, pull it out then push in and use the tool to pull the clip out. Very little room and hard to do and don’t even think about putting the sensor back in afterwards lol. But I got it and noticed a huge difference, engine warmed up way quicker and stabilized at 200-210 way better than before where it would go between 180-220.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Ginco
No, you have to do it from the bottom. Just did it on mine and was really hard to do. Use a phone camera and put it up next to the power steering motor on the passenger side of the motor where you can see the side of the crank pulley and behind the IC. Use a hooked tool to grab the little silver clip, pull it out then push in and use the tool to pull the clip out. Very little room and hard to do and don’t even think about putting the sensor back in afterwards lol. But I got it and noticed a huge difference, engine warmed up way quicker and stabilized at 200-210 way better than before where it would go between 180-220.
Sometimes having a V6 in that big engine bay has its advantages...
I was able to access the connector from above on both my cars (M276 engines).
Does anyone know the thread pitch for a external sensor? I am currently running a banks data monster and I can attach a external oil pressure sensor to the gauge to read out info
Check directly with@S-Prihadi , he did it for the seminal experiments that lead to this mod. I think he has similar setup
Here are screen shots of the procedure for P06DA00. There is no mention of ignoring the code in these procedures. The document above is XENTRY TIPS, which is a different module that I don't have access to.
Here are the screen shots. There is no mention here about ignoring the code, but in the XENTRY Tips, which I don't have access to.
Check directly with@S-Prihadi , he did it for the seminal experiments that lead to this mod. I think he has similar setup
So from what I gathered, a external sensor is a 1/8npt,and our thread pitch on the housing is m12x1.5, so will just need a adaptor to make it work
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Mojo20032004
So from what I gathered, a external sensor is a 1/8npt,and our thread pitch on the housing is m12x1.5, so will just need a adaptor to make it work
Sometimes having a V6 in that big engine bay has its advantages...
I was able to access the connector from above on both my cars (M276 engines).
I have an M276 C400 lol. Same as the C43. It was impossible to access from above and could barely get it from below. Could barely see it even with the phone camera.
No, you have to do it from the bottom. Just did it on mine and was really hard to do. Use a phone camera and put it up next to the power steering motor on the passenger side of the motor where you can see the side of the crank pulley and behind the IC. Use a hooked tool to grab the little silver clip, pull it out then push in and use the tool to pull the clip out. Very little room and hard to do and don’t even think about putting the sensor back in afterwards lol. But I got it and noticed a huge difference, engine warmed up way quicker and stabilized at 200-210 way better than before where it would go between 180-220.
Some info for you guys to chat over
I attached the WIS oil pressure instructions that also have the M157, 276, 278 oil pressures.
also attached here is the 222 and 217 M157 parts, that show the electronic pressure sensor
and the adapter with bolt that fits onto the oil filter housing. Highlighted them below, and added the P/N.
Also pressure sensor cross references in certain motors for M157, 276 and 278.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
The interesting part of that procedure is the oil pressure values at each RPM stage; essentially idle (600 RPM) up to 2500 RPM and then at 3500 RPM. Looking at those measurement points, one would think oil pressure increases linearly. But from @S-Prihadi test measurements, the pressure is limited to 2 bar under 3500 RPMs and jumps to 4 bar at 3500 RPMs. Staying at or under 2 bar all the way to 3500 RPMs is where the damage is occurring. I think my RPMs are only around 2000 RPMs at 70mph when cruising on the highway.
And this is the scary part:
Last edited by JettaRed; Dec 27, 2023 at 11:37 AM.
FYI 2 bar is 28 psi, 1.7 bar is 23.8 psi. I note that from the table above all the engine series have the same specs for pressure and rpm. That is interesting as that tells us it is being controlled from a table or routine that switches it at 3500 to high pressure. What is unknown is the calculation behind it. We still dont know what the cold start pressure is or should be.
We REALLY need actual oil pressure data from all series of engines AT cold start and idle, Plus Hot idle and start and finally drive mode when warmed up 1500-2500 then 3000 to 5000 rpm.
I predict we will find: cold start and idle = 4 bar for a timed interval..say 20 seconds then switches to 1.7- 2 bar. Warm idle and start 1.7-2 bar. Warm drive 1500 -2500 = 1.7-2 bar 3500 -5000 4 bar at all times
Un plugged is still unknown but I predict 4 bar at all times thus the ECU delivers optimum settings for timing, VVT, fueling and transmission settings. YMMV
Those with a tuned ECu might be able to see if the solenoid activates to the lower oil pressure setting by following the oil pressure maybe
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
