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PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by kevm14
Mine is just ziptied and dangling since last year. Car shouldn't see salt (on purpose) under my ownership so that's something. I believe (but not positive) that it wouldn't try to ground switch the solenoid until it sees the proper resistance range but that is just a guess. Anyway, it would take a real miracle to somehow short a pin from my plug, which is ziptied away from stuff, to ground. I'm not worried about it.
Yes : ) That certainly is something, too bad I live in the great white north though, given it is a live connection I definitely want to protect it. I guess I won't ground it but use electrical tape and just wrap around it.
Double duty. One MALE you can use to cover/plug the connector near the pulley, the other FEMALE one you use to protect the current connector in discussion.
Now that we know it is Coding A Sealstar 1.2, it is easy.
You can buy from FCPEuro, this one https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...des-2711500156
So the oil solenoid Y130, its connector is the same as CAM MAGNET.
You only need to cut those wires and place sealant, so no wicking of corrosion into the connector.
Double duty. One MALE you can use to cover/plug the connector near the pulley, the other FEMALE one you use to protect the current connector in discussion.
Now that we know it is Coding A Sealstar 1.2, it is easy.
You can buy from FCPEuro, this one https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...des-2711500156
So the oil solenoid Y130, its connector is the same as CAM MAGNET.
You only need to cut those wires and place sealant, so no wicking of corrosion into the connector.
What I call as female is called MALE by Hirscmann, because I use the plastic body gender, while Hirschmann uses the copper terminal gender
Thank you~!
I wonder if there are other harness/connectors that uses this same coding A? I called my local dealership for 2711500156 and they said they don't have it in stock and they can't order it anytime soon, for some reason.
Sadly, I have no luck finding one from amazon that is fulfilled by amazon, there are some that is the right one but it is coming from across the world. no luck on ebay either, JettaRed's link agree is the best solution but like he said, a slow boat : (
Yes, I understand I am wasting money if buying from the dealership but it has been raining super hard lately here and I am suddenly worried about water damaging it (it never crossed my mind that I forgot to seal it a few weeks ago, my bad), I zip tied the connector pretty low (mistake 2) compared to other forum members.
I am in Canada so FCPEuro won't ship here or I can use a forwarding service but that will take a few weeks, alternatives like ECS Tuning will take 2-5 weeks estimated it says.
I wonder if there are other harness/connectors that uses this same coding A? I called my local dealership for 2711500156 and they said they don't have it in stock and they can't order it anytime soon, for some reason.
Sadly, I have no luck finding one from amazon that is fulfilled by amazon, there are some that is the right one but it is coming from across the world. no luck on ebay either, JettaRed's link agree is the best solution but like he said, a slow boat : (
Yes, I understand I am wasting money if buying from the dealership but it has been raining super hard lately here and I am suddenly worried about water damaging it (it never crossed my mind that I forgot to seal it a few weeks ago, my bad), I zip tied the connector pretty low (mistake 2) compared to other forum members.
I am in Canada so FCPEuro won't ship here or I can use a forwarding service but that will take a few weeks, alternatives like ECS Tuning will take 2-5 weeks estimated it says.
alternatively, just plug your solenoid back in until you get this piggyback harness. It's the safest measure if you have a concern for water
Ah, says arrive in one week, that is perfect, thank you!
I appreciate the suggestion but it took me 3 weeks to get that connector off that thing will never be going back on for the life of the car most likely : )
no worries, I am grounding myself in the meantime for making such a terrible mistake of not sealing it after unplugging.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
You only need to cut those wires and place sealant, so no wicking of corrosion into the connector.
Sorry for the terrible questions, I just want to make sure and don't want to mess things up. What kind of sealant is recommended to be used and where should the sealant go and the amount? Much appreciated!
Just packaged up my oil for Blackstone. Changed the oil yesterday. A shade over 5,000 miles on Molygen 5W-40 (I did have to add 1L during). About 104k on car.
I didn't drive it very far because during this service I realized the insides of my rear tires are beyond spent (whoops). But I did drive it a bit and it feels like the unplugging mod is doing more for me. It's back to that responsive throttle off the line. We'll see what Blackstone says. I will post.
Geez, that took a full month, but I come bearing gifts. I dunno, maybe this is normal. I guess I expected it way faster. Anyway, this seems like a great report. That said, I am still convinced my cam phasers need more oil pressure to work properly when warmed up. The way the car responds and drives when the oil is cooler is something I really need when hot. It almost doesn't feel turbocharged when the oil is cooler, like 120F.
Sorry for the terrible questions, I just want to make sure and don't want to mess things up. What kind of sealant is recommended to be used and where should the sealant go and the amount? Much appreciated!
Cover the end of the connector where the wires are ( wires cut off maximum ), 5-8mm thick and all around, should be good enough.
The adhesion of these two options are good to plastic surface and not to the silicone plug of the wire.
Make sure if if on the MALE connector ( engine block side near pulley), its locking mechanism does not get glued, so you can remove the connector any time.
I know I read it because you said it was a sort of relief.
I could not make sense of viscosity @100 numbers.
Am not familiar with that. Perhaps @Rickman30 can help us decifer the art of oil sampling.
I can see the CALCIUM is extremely high... isn't what ages into old fashioned sludge ??
Ref: 5kMo L-MOLY oil analysis, right?
I am glad you positively identified stable oil temp/viscosity is what your ECU really respond well to. This means your engine proves to be in shape for this progress to materialize. It's the Bosch injection handing out gaz with more granularity.
Realize that the ECU is rebuilding the entire bottom map to match the "new sealed smooth engine" - Expect TCU to start expending gear 1-2-3 towards what this engine has never done.
Part of that is the Lambda cleaning. COLD OIL STOPS BURNING THROUGH. So much headaches canceled
Miracle grade: my 60kMi engine has now quit drinking it's non-vaporized oil:
The clean wet piston rings are wiping well unscored cylinders.
Having better viscosity the oil film on camshafts and crankshaft bearings is more consistent/ effective. Less efforts, less heat.
Better ring seal less burning hot blow-by
I still need to plug my loose solenoid wide open to the winds. I am gona test a relay coil spliced in my pigtail when I get to it. Still have to maintain my rear brakes and exchange wrong serpentine 6K2215 from FCP AZ !!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 06-07-2024 at 06:21 AM.
The viscosity is good at 12.31 @100C for a used oil
cSt and mm2/S is the same unit
The high calcium 2,996 in red seems this is not SP rated oil.
Lake Speed Jr discussed this on prevention of Low Speed Pre-Ignition oil formula in our GDI engine, hence the API SP rated was introduced.
He is discussing Mobil1 O40W old formula with high calcium
The high calcium 2,996 in red seems this is not SP rated oil.
Lake Speed Jr discussed this on prevention of Low Speed Pre-Ignition oil formula in our GDI engine, hence the API SP rated was introduced.
Yes. That Motul 8100 5W-50 I have my eye on is SP. I don't know if I can wait another 5k miles to try it, either. When I make the switch I could extract an oil sample early (like 500 or 1000 miles) just to make sure nothing bad is beginning to occur. Lake Speed Jr mentioned that when you switch oils there can be temporary increased wear metals until you do the second oil change on the new oil so I could potentially be generating 27 quarts of oil coming up here....that's a lot.
Cover the end of the connector where the wires are ( wires cut off maximum ), 5-8mm thick and all around, should be good enough.
The adhesion of these two options are good to plastic surface and not to the silicone plug of the wire.
Make sure if if on the MALE connector ( engine block side near pulley), its locking mechanism does not get glued, so you can remove the connector any time.
Thanks again for your patience for my absurd questions!
Sealed engines not burning any oil don't get to burn any pre-igniting calcium nor coat intake valves
The SP grade is spec'ed for stock dry-lubed engines with stuck rings that burn 1 or more quarts per 5kMi.
Allegedly your engine is now dynamically sealed.
My engine hastotally quit ingesting its own oil once I got it temp controlled.
Beside our MOD-2.1 oil temp remains around coolant temp: 200F. It's no longer vaporized into smoke above 450F.
All good!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 06-07-2024 at 04:02 PM.
@juanmor40 can you please tell Master Surya what you told me about MOTUL 5W40 - He is still running 0W40 and could use your perspective about removing high heat from tropical Florida.
Help him cross the bridge from 0w40 to 5w40.
You're the whole reason I found the link between viscosity and cooling. I did not expect my engine heat to drop when I switched 4500Mi ago.
Without extreme heat he will have fewer issues with all the distressed plastics and seals. That is positive peace.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 06-10-2024 at 08:15 PM.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
A few posts back, there was discussion about how quickly our engines got to operating temps (i.e., 176°F). Here's my observation on my M276.825 3.0 L bi-turbo:
Ambient temp: 77°F
Oil temp at startup: 83°F
Time to operating temp: 7 minutes
Distance driven to operating temp: 4 miles
Driving style: normal (avg. 35 mph)
Transmission mode: Economy
I noticed this a couple of times. My numbers are not very granular, so the time could be anywhere from 7 minutes to 7 minutes 59 seconds, and distance could be anywhere from 4 miles to 4 miles 5279 feet (you get the picture).
A few posts back, there was discussion about how quickly our engines got to operating temps (i.e., 176°F). Here's my observation on my M276.825 3.0 L bi-turbo:
Ambient temp: 77°F
Oil temp at startup: 83°F
Time to operating temp: 7 minutes
Distance driven to operating temp: 4 miles
Driving style: normal (avg. 35 mph)
Transmission mode: Economy
I noticed this a couple of times. My numbers are not very granular, so the time could be anywhere from 7 minutes to 7 minutes 59 seconds, and distance could be anywhere from 4 miles to 4 miles 5279 feet (you get the picture).
JR, this looks like your engine gets up to operating temp, would you say quicker, same or slower ?
Also directly related to that is what oil type, how old oil and approx. age of thermostat.
How is your compa4ative driving experience as far as engine accelerator response: worse - equal -better ?
I recently dumped in a 100ml tainture at 4500Mi for summer - It still directly screwed up exact timings before improving them + temps, my ultimate purpose.
++++ EXPERIMENT OUTCOME...
Couple things I can confirm
-- Where viscosity is concerned you can't go far with a dry-lubing oil.
-- Now the small prints:
"Dry-lubing direct consequence is extremely high stored heat".
-- 1500Mi old oil can behing to loose viscosity according to heat abuse.
-- Normal heat is easy to manage. No chaos necessary to de-tune normal performance.
It seems MB 229.5 oil spec is updating itself to SP grade oil.
Today's data : 11 june 2024
I am using Motul product line as an example, as Cali and Juan has good result with it.
None of the approved oil is available in Indonesia or even Singapore.
Here is the interesting bit.
MB TODAY ( 11th June 2024 oil list ) DID NOT approve Motul X-Cess 5W40 if gen-1, but approved if the Gen-2 version. OW40 I am discussing, not 0W30.
Gen-1 SN rated only.
Above : Motul would not put MB299.5 if they were not approved by MB for this Gen-1 oil in the past.
So sometime ago MB must have updated their oil list which meant their oil standard too.
Thus we best use MB Oil List as a safer bet than any oil brand datasheet, simply because MB Oil List is often updated.
Case to note the Mobil 1 0W40 was only SP rated for my market this 2024, previously in 2023 its version was SN..for my market.
Gen-2
Since I am on turbocharged engine, SP rated is the only one I will go for now that it is available.
I fear LSPI which if turbocharged I am more at risk.
Its kinda sad that car manufacturer does not admit LSPI openly and that GDI engine needs tougher oil test, but they are the one pushing API and the European equivalent ACEA to
set a tougher oil test standard, the SP ( if API ) and GF-6A if ACEA
ACEA is European Automobile Manufacturers' Association (ACEA)
So they knew what is going on with them GDI and more so turbocharged GDI.... more so small displacement ones.... need better oil.
The International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC)
Since 2020 they introduced the standard and it too like 3 years to start to take off it seems for SP and GF-6A
I never really paid attention to the warmup time before AND without the AMG Menu Mod by @BenzNinja I wouldn't be able to observe the oil temp.
Oil is Pennzoil Euro Platinum 5W-40. My last oil change was April 12, about 1000 miles ago. My thermostat is original, 10 years old.
Throttle response is hard to determine because (1) I disconnected the solenoid last November and (2) I have four drive modes to choose from: E, S, A, and M. I can say that E mode is definitely smoother when shifting, almost imperceptible.
06-06-2024, 07:53 AM
