Thanks. <60psi at zero mph with brake applied in drive with some throttle. Engine and transmission oil and coolant not at full operating temperatures.
Bearing and cylinders lubrication is a non-issue with stock setup for everday use. 5kMi service interval is beneficial for clean oil.
Normal engine oil pressure goes up from idle ~10 Psi minimal pressure up to ~ 60Psi relief with two significant bumps. Unfortunately the engine is setup without oil pressure sensing.
Meaning the pressure numbers do not matter, the bumps do.
The ECU management of camshaft positioning was shown to get corrupted by 2 events:
pump solenoid switching
piston jet opening
These uncontrolled pressure bumps are significant because they result in the hydraulic cam positioning messing up the A/F mixture map.
This cause spongy throttle reponse matched by poor tranny shifts.
The goal of limiting oil pressure is to reduces oil frictions.
The results are in that order:
limited pistons spray cooling
pistons heat accumulation
dirty stuck rings
crankcase blow-by contaminants
unbalanced contribution timings
lean misfires weakness
> The flip side... MOD-X:
It may be beneficial to keep piston rings sealed with effective pistons cooling.
The ECU is able to manage fuel injection precisely with smooth predictable engines easily matched by excellent tranny shifts.
more output power + more gas savings = more efficient drivetrain & less smog.
@CaliBenzDriver Mobil 1 Supercar 5W-50 is not MB 229.5 approved and only claims to meet or exceed API SP. Is that what you are using? Even Mobil 1 FS European 5W-50 is only MB 229.3 approved and claims meeting or exceeding API SP.
Isn’t that kinda the same as what Triax is claiming? The following is from Mobil’s website for the Supercar formula.
I’m not trying to pick a fight or anything. I’m just don’t want to throw it out without evaluating the claims in comparison with more familiar oils.
@CaliBenzDriver Mobil 1 Supercar 5W-50 is not MB 229.5 approved and only claims to meet or exceed API SP. Is that what you are using? Even Mobil 1 FS European 5W-50 is only MB 229.3 approved and claims meeting or exceeding API SP.
Isn’t that kinda the same as what Triax is claiming? The following is from Mobil’s website for the Supercar formula.
I’m not trying to pick a fight or anything. I’m just don’t want to throw it out without evaluating the claims in comparison with more familiar oils.
No worries... nothing is simple API Rated SP
It is rated by the American Petroleum Institute as SP compliant.
I trust Exxon-Mobil No1 world oil company this is not a fake approval.
No worries... nothing is simple API Rated SP
It is rated by the American Petroleum Institute as SP compliant.
I trust Exxon-Mobil No1 world oil company this is not a fake approval.
this is correct, if it’s an approved SP oil it literally says SP right on the bottle. The confusion comes from the fact that SP was not invented when 229.5 was. If you were to go to the bevo oil chart you would see they list mobil one 540, and if you are aware all of those bottles now say SP on them if they are new stock.
Using a better more modern oil than what was recommended is the way… 229.5 has been proven to increase sludge, low speed preignition, and blow-by and a host of other problems. Why would anybody even think to care about that approval from Mercedes anymore? Motor oil geek has beat this subject to death…don’t use old tech oils, use new tech and NO additives. If you’ve not seen the cleanup I did to my rings, you should check out that thread.( not Cali, for others)
Now that you brought this up, I am finding interesting things about the big name oils. This one is for Valvoline European Full Synthetic 0W-40...
Notice that it does not say MB 229.5 approved, but rather “Recommended for”.
For 0W-40 grade.
Great: now you can see through the marketing differences between "LICENSED by" vs. "RECOMMENDED for"...
Approval is especially important with ALUMINIUM cyl. bores - It may be best to use "MB Approved" lubricants to ensure full MB experience.
API-SP lubricants are the more modern version of the API-SN. They are based on lighter additives chemistries that can burn up cleaner with less deposits.
Blending all selected components with a stock oil is a challenging science, tribologist LakeSpeedJr talks about. Everything must stay in the mix.
> Best Of SN/SP Formulas....
Mobil1 supercar 5W-50 feature the clean formula from its "API-SP Approval" with a healthy level of proven ZDDP.
It quiets the HPFP right away!
I think SP formula package may be a little too light if zinc is able to further helps frictions... granted we don't care for non-API rated "ZDDP racing oil" in everyday applications.
this is correct, if it’s an approved SP oil it literally says SP right on the bottle. The confusion comes from the fact that SP was not invented when 229.5 was. If you were to go to the bevo oil chart you would see they list mobil one 540, and if you are aware all of those bottles now say SP on them if they are new stock.
Using a better more modern oil than what was recommended is the way… 229.5 has been proven to increase sludge, low speed preignition, and blow-by and a host of other problems.
Why would anybody even think to care about that approval from Mercedes anymore?
Motor oil geek has beat this subject to death…don’t use old tech oils, use new tech and NO additives. If you’ve not seen the cleanup I did to my rings, you should check out that thread ( not Cali, for others).
You have managed to turn around from CERATEC contamination.
You found out your engine was heavily contaminated with white ceramics deposits.
A quick bore-scope revealed your pistons crowns were oily from seriously dangerously stuck rings.
That was evidence of ceratec not helping drafty cylinders.
We recall evidence that bore SCORING is caused by heavy combustion deposits being grabbed by the pistons top then rolled down.
That's one more reason to CARE ABOUT CLEAN SEALED RINGS besides losses, misfires & timings.
Sure thing. You (whomever, Sometimes I write "you" but really mean to generalize) will see I evolved my thought on additives, specifically ceratec. The goal was to remove deposits from stuck rings and proceed with better "plain" oil.
After switching to Motul 8100 Power 5W50 API SP in mid-December, I took several trips across Germany, some of which even reached speeds over 280 km/h (as measured by GPS). Now that 5,000 km have passed, here’s a photo of what the oil looks like right now:
I have to say, I'm more than surprised and at the same time pleased with how the oil looks. It didn't even use 150 ml since oil change. This is the first time I've been using 5W50 exclusively. But I'm very happy to see the results.
I have been using that now for 15k miles (3 oil changes). Other than some consumption due to a faulty PCV on one particular trip, oil consumption is almost zero!
After switching to Motul 8100 Power 5W50 API SP in mid-December, I took several trips across Germany, some of which even reached speeds over 280 km/h (as measured by GPS). Now that 5,000 km have passed, here’s a photo of what the oil looks like right now:
I have to say, I'm more than surprised and at the same time pleased with how the oil looks. It didn't even use 150 ml since oil change. This is the first time I've been using 5W50 exclusively. But I'm very happy to see the results.
I've been tried last summer Power too but 5w40, on my type of driving its color was brighter than any other oil that im using/used and on first 3k km i see its already darker, so i think to take another Power next month when im about to change oil again
P.S. im not sure but i think with Power oil car was feeling a bit different like its more responsive, not sure if was placebo haha
Good looking oil with minimal losses is a lot of positive results...
Without intake vaporized oil... your clean intake valves will not get jacketed with oil carbon.
Without drafty rings losses the pistons crowns are not building up carbon ***** for bore scoring.
Now the most essential you are getting is the effective piston cooling that cleans rings towards equal contributions.
That's what enables the predictable CKP timings the GDI ECU thrives on.
When you witness zero vibrations under load at 3000.R, that's your victory checker flag!
The first time... it is really surprising to have an engine pull and feel like it's not even running... vibrations are gone!!
> MOD-X step by step journey :
Setup effectively cools pistons **
Heat stops vaporizing 5W-50 PAO oil
Piston rings clean up
Cylinders contributions balances
ECU matches engine timings
TCU matches ECU throttle
Light chassis flys.
Yours soon: precise powerful throttle from ALL cylinders fueled by lag-free maps.
We can wonder why OEM's want to disregard what limiting piston squirters does to drafty hot-pistons rings ??
** W40 has limited effectiveness with these hot GDI setups regardless of MOD-1 spraying.
I've purchased 24x Qts of my favorite 5W-50 stored for future oil changes or until bombs stop disrupting oil supply-chain.
> Recently Lake Jr. the "oil geek" sayed:
- "W50 increases oil consuption...."
To the contrary: thinner oil of course disappears.
Here W50 PAO is reported to minimize oil losses specifically through RINGS + PCV.
Viscosity limiting oil losses was known even before 1940's - Enjoy it.
My pump solenoid integrity was fine when I disabled it in search of relief from extreme heat.
I doubt the M177 Hot-V setup features effective cooling if it triggers solenoid thermal protection.
This is keeping up with latest CPS "oil in harness" that used to be $10k then got upgraded to $26k.
The engine harness are really becoming worthy service items.
> HEAT used as enemy...
Extreme heat is not set in stone!
Gaining effective heat control is a welcome freebie in the experimental MOD-X journey.
Can't get that with MOD-1 part-time effectiveness.... nor even full time spraying.
High heat is a balance of accumulation. ECU is involved at creating more frictions and not removing enough with predictive mapping.
The ECU increasingly get in the mood with precise timings that reduce clunky frictions. High stock heat receeds little by little (not by spray cooling alone) until the new normal heat level (Fan:Off) makes it obvious stock was abnormal.
> WIN-WIN: POWER + COOLING...
The good news is you'll first get strong output throttle before heat control slowly improves.
This new found power won't be legacy stock type with high-heat:
It will be more power + less frictions from self-tuned GDI timings courtesy of Bosch stock ECU.
High friction heat is clearly about inefficiencies losses (ie. more gas for less power).This are specifically marginal forces placed upon pistons and conrods by unstable ECU timings.
> Listen up for clunkiness under load vs. more quiet.
-- It's easy to pick up: higher load more noisy rotating assembly (not pinging).
-- W50 can be as clunky as W40... it's timings!
-- That's why it is best to have balanced predictable contributions timings before high loads.
-- Let the ECU adapt to sealed engine predictable timings!
So I saw that video and call BS. At least for an m157. When I had my oil solenoid harness replaced at the dealer under warranty last year it was in the $3000 range…. I like that channels videos for their information but their pricing is nowhere near what I’ve experienced in real life.
So I saw that video and call BS. At least for an m157.
When I had my oil solenoid harness replaced at the dealer under warranty last year it was in the $3000 range….
I like that channels videos for their information but their pricing is nowhere near what I’ve experienced in real life.
sure sounds like gravy with $10k padding
The $21,000 price difference explains why technicians don't profit from warranty claims - Repeat jobs afterwards are better business...
Warranty have strict claim guidelines for coverage and book time. Outside that framework different set of open rules are used...
Replacing the failed solenoid harness is hardly a fix.
The same stock heat stays unaltered ready to repeat the same harness failure.
Same thing with... leaking Cam. Position Sensors:
new sensors + engine harness
Same repeat issue later.
Same thing with.... dirty intake valves:
walnut blasting stems, no cylinders cleaning.
Same repeat issue later.
DIY'ers can use experimental options to disable repeats.
> Extreme engine HEAT is the root of many struggles... actually every issues above !
-- Heat does not need to stay uncontrolled for DIY'ers.
-- Master Tasos is going high-tech to regulate a radiator bypass valve...
-- I found that precise cylinders timings help my Fan stay Off.
The better engine runs, the less heat is wasted. The laggy setup is the actual source of heat.
"Tune the lag to loose the heat" with all associated dramas.
just had oil analysis come back and with my limited knowledge things seem to look good. this was a 4000mi oil change and AMSOIL Signature 5w50. Previous to that was LiquiMoly Leichtelauf 5w40 + Ceratec which was changed at 2000mi right before the ECU tune. I stuck with AMSOIL 5w50 this round as well. Solenoid has been disconnected for 6000mi now and the oil sample saw one track day at Thunder Hill west and monthly spirited drives in the backroads here.
just had oil analysis come back and with my limited knowledge things seem to look good. this was a 4000mi oil change and AMSOIL Signature 5w50. Previous to that was LiquiMoly Leichtelauf 5w40 + Ceratec which was changed at 2000mi right before the ECU tune. I stuck with AMSOIL 5w50 this round as well. Solenoid has been disconnected for 6000mi now and the oil sample saw one track day at Thunder Hill west and monthly spirited drives in the backroads here.
The UOA shows you understand the value of best PAO oil choices on short schedules:
The fuel dilution is none!
The viscosity is effective in range.
The oil components are not degraded
This appears to be an SP formula
The bearings metals are traces
LM white ceramic is the opposite of what helps regain clean pistons grooves. What's there is there... just give it mileage: you are early on a great track.
Enjoy your engine self-tuning MILESTONES:
balanced cylinders contributions
pressure sensitive throttle
Rpm matched snappy shifts
lower uncontrolled heat soaks
Cooled sealed rings drive the ECU with predictable timings. Precise A/F mixtures combustions disable laggy throttle to enable best ECU-TCU driveability.
Everything improves slowly through the ECU maps... watch your milstones materialize little by little.
We know engine timings are essential to the GDI ECU for predictable engine performance.
This is important because only precise timings yield strong combustions maps. You can not skip over else NO improvement - Everything ECU is based on engine timings.
Anything else is de-rated by a lean penalty... power output gets reduced all the way to laggy trims, then misfires hunt with new injectors + coils to fix poor timings.
Let us review the factors that directly affects reliable cylinders timings:
unbalanced cylinders pressure
unsealed drafty pistons
unreliable ignition sparks
unstable chassis voltage!
unreliable intake cam position
weak chain tensioners slop
limited VVT actuation pressure
disrupted cam position by surges
unadapted & corrupted maps
unstable oil viscosity
Oil pump volume switching
Squirters pressure drop
...
> YET SIMPLE ...
Translate the list above as opportunities for improvements.
The easy shortcut to most factors is MOD-X:5W-50 PAO.
Worned out bores are unable to all seal evenly.
Random timings limit some of the performance to basics.
> THE BOTTOM LINE...
If your chassis is not heavy and you don't have throttle lagg and tranny shifts seamlessly: your powertrain is running well.
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