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Yes sir. My 18 GLS 63 has 66,000 miles and has had 5W 40 throughout its life so far. Today I did the oil change with OW 40 and decided to unplug the solenoid to see if I get a CEL and it immediately did. I’m able to clear it, but it goes current again after two key cycles. I’m totally convinced to proceed with this mod, but I don’t want this annoying light on my dash.
Ok are there any links or instructions or part numbers to make sure I’m getting the right stuff?
also where do I go to learn more about mod 1,2 and all that? I’m finding it very difficult to navigate through this website.
Ok are there any links or instructions or part numbers to make sure I’m getting the right stuff?
also where do I go to learn more about mod 1,2 and all that? I’m finding it very difficult to navigate through this website.
Here is the part for the dummy control valve, no doubt there are cheaper after market options
Ok are there any links or instructions or part numbers to make sure I’m getting the right stuff?
also where do I go to learn more about mod 1,2 and all that? I’m finding it very difficult to navigate through this website.
This is self-help thread. Everything is readyly available.
A while ago website Mgt decided to disable EDITS... I can no longer edit summarizes.
Kev has a opening summary in OP.
You can experiment oiling improvements within your comfort zone. There are limits, pros & cons acording to options you select.
MOD-4 > The MOST CHANGES: 5w-50
The most this will do is help clean stuck rings to seal drafty cylinders.
This will let the ECU dial each cylinder contribution for a vibration-free pressure sensitive throttle.
MOD-1 > The LEAST CHANGES: 0W-40.
It's near stock pressure with lower oil viscosity. Heads run quieter and likely cooler too.
MOD-2 > Middle of the road: 5W-40.
This can get good results for about 2500.Mi before viscosity derates towards stock conditions with VVT surges.
> In A Nutshell:
The no-brainer step is using the "MB Approved" Motul 5w-40 SP or equivalent favorite oil.
Run that for 4000Mi twice to start cleaning carbon away from your pistons rings. Don't let it burn: when it does drafty rings are building up carbon: shaky timings!
Read this thread to understand limits and preserve high-powered engines. This MOD is experimental.
NOTE: You may damage your con.rod bearings by redlining unbalanced cylinders stock or MOD. For WOT it's best to understand limitations or get balanced to vibratation free before terminal damage waste bores.
Meanings don't load MOD4 and waste your sift bearings with WOT.
Stock MOD-0 reduced power is safer.
Beware what combination you're experimenting with...
Gradual cleaning is better than wreckless outcome. Let your engine shape up before stressing power from few cylinders.
Thin film lube is a downward spiral.
Safer is better.
> MOD-4: 5W-50 Report :
Fair color of Motul 5w-50 SP M276-NA
4,600.Mi
That's a working combination of oil and viscosity.
Practically cleaning and cooling... not burning given an average mix course of City/Hwy around 2,000.Rpm.
I have not heard the regular high pitch hissing after engine stop (Fan:Off) - I think GDI rail / pump are no longer getting heatsoaked.
I have no concern against excellent Motul 5w50... Next is Amsoil's 5w50 sig. experimentation
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 5, 2025 at 02:29 AM.
Here is the part for the dummy control valve, no doubt there are cheaper after market options...
Will let Cali explain the various mods on this thread.
I can vouch for moving to 5W-50 from 0W-40.
@jcarsnz You may have a good case for upgrading directly from 0/5w-40 to 5w-50 SP.
I can hardly believe what MOT.5W-50 can do !!
-- What has been your experience after MOD-1?
-- What about your upgrade from stock oil ?
-- How is your throttle responding now ?
-- How is your tranny driving like nowadays ?
-- How about level of : torque /power /heat ?
-- Do you get "start without crank" ?
SUPER CLEAN OLD MOT.5w-50 SP ESTER
I can't believe how clean this oil stayed at 4600.Mi. despite what it's been through already. I've never had an oil like that.
It has lost a bit of viscosity but still has enough to operate squirters effectively without burning at normal 2k.Rpm.
The engine thermal mgt is gradually normalizing itself nicely. Coolant heat can still trigger the fan but uncontrolled heatsoaks are radically gone!
Engine runs cool after 15mn or 2hours: circulated heat is now regulated under control. Traffic jams don't overheat when you start with controlled heat level. Response stays solid, does not get lumpy!
Coolant minimal consumption has stopped
Oil consumption stopped (less half quart at 5k!)
Cool struts are not bouncy
It's a far cry from stock setup surged VVT and guaranteed to chew lock-pins...no rattling necessary.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 5, 2025 at 03:21 AM.
This is self-help thread. Everything is readyly available.
A while ago website Mgt decided to disable EDITS... I can no longer edit summarizes.
Kev has a opening summary in OP.
You can experiment oiling improvements within your comfort zone. There are limits, pros & cons acording to options you select.
MOD-4 > The MOST CHANGES: 5w-50
The most this will do is help clean stuck rings to seal drafty cylinders.
This will let the ECU dial each cylinder contribution for a vibration-free pressure sensitive throttle.
MOD-1 > The LEAST CHANGES: 0W-40.
It's near stock pressure with lower oil viscosity. Heads run quieter and likely cooler too.
MOD-2 > Middle of the road: 5W-40.
This can get good results for about 2500.Mi before viscosity derates towards stock conditions with VVT surges.
> In A Nutshell:
The no-brainer step is using the "MB Approved" Motul 5w-40 SP or equivalent favorite oil.
Run that for 4000Mi twice to start cleaning carbon away from your pistons rings. Don't let it burn: when it does drafty rings are building up carbon: shaky timings!
Read this thread to understand limits and preserve high-powered engines. This MOD is experimental.
NOTE: You may damage your con.rod bearings by redlining unbalanced cylinders stock or MOD. For WOT it's best to understand limitations or get balanced to vibratation free before terminal damage waste bores.
Meanings don't load MOD4 and waste your sift bearings with WOT.
Stock MOD-0 reduced power is safer.
Beware what combination you're experimenting with...
Gradual cleaning is better than wreckless outcome. Let your engine shape up before stressing power from few cylinders.
Thin film lube is a downward spiral.
Safer is better.
> MOD-4: 5W-50 Report :
Fair color of Motul 5w-50 SP M276-NA
4,600.Mi
That's a working combination of oil and viscosity.
Practically cleaning and cooling... not burning given an average mix course of City/Hwy around 2,000.Rpm.
I have not heard the regular high pitch hissing after engine stop (Fan:Off) - I think GDI rail / pump are no longer getting heatsoaked.
I have no concern against excellent Motul 5w50... Next is Amsoil's 5w50 sig. experimentation
I got an idea : )
Maybe create a new post and then reference the old post with a link to it stating what is being added and how it relates to that post.
That way, if somebody did scroll through and have already read the previous post (original post you made before you edited) as new post appear, they won't miss new valuable information from you.
As chances are, some forum members won't be scrolling back days to weeks to your old post and check for edits to see if there is new information.
The forum also doesn't notify them a post they previously has read has been edited with new information. It also does not notify them how many times the post was edited and what information was deleted or added. Only the author of that post can view that information by pressing the last edited hyperlink on the bottom of the post.
In my case, the edit button also rarely works. I just confirmed it works for me when editing this post this AM, however I fully expect it to stop working again shortly, I am not sure why it keeps happening, maybe it is my browser maybe it is my device or maybe it has to do with the new forum implementations.
In that case, unless they haven't read that post ever before, there is a risk that if you edit an old post, they will miss that information forever.
Last edited by W205C43PFL; Apr 5, 2025 at 08:25 AM.
Quick summary of my current stance on viscosity: unplug and if interested in experimenting with thicker oil, just switch to a 5W-50 and observe any changes. I selected Motul 5W-50 SP - Amsoil may be even better but the Motul is still leagues better than the typical 229.5 0/5W-40 that we all run.
I've been driving my car daily because my poor S550 is on the donut spare still. So I have more observations from running the 5W-50. Mainly the engine is more solid and responsive at lower RPMs. For example off the line it does have that nice "firm" feel where you just squeeze the throttle and it responds. With the 5W-40 (even unplugged) it would get kind of lethargic with fully warmed up oil. That seems to be gone now. Another example is I was driving in my neighborhood in 3rd gear at around 2000 rpm and just sort of snapped the throttle open a bit and it responded instantly with no hesitation or surging (it used to do that sometimes, too). It really seems to like the 5W-50 and I recommend it.
Quick summary of my current stance on viscosity: unplug and if interested in experimenting with thicker oil, just switch to a 5W-50 and observe any changes. I selected Motul 5W-50 SP - Amsoil may be even better but the Motul is still leagues better than the typical 229.5 0/5W-40 that we all run.
I've been driving my car daily because my poor S550 is on the donut spare still. So I have more observations from running the 5W-50. Mainly the engine is more solid and responsive at lower RPMs. For example off the line it does have that nice "firm" feel where you just squeeze the throttle and it responds. With the 5W-40 (even unplugged) it would get kind of lethargic with fully warmed up oil. That seems to be gone now. Another example is I was driving in my neighborhood in 3rd gear at around 2000 rpm and just sort of snapped the throttle open a bit and it responded instantly with no hesitation or surging (it used to do that sometimes, too). It really seems to like the 5W-50 and I recommend it.
Yes sir. My 18 GLS 63 has 66,000 miles and has had 5W 40 throughout its life so far. Today I did the oil change with OW 40 and decided to unplug the solenoid to see if I get a CEL and it immediately did. I’m able to clear it, but it goes current again after two key cycles. I’m totally convinced to proceed with this mod, but I don’t want this annoying light on my dash.
2018 GLS 63 is using M177 engine right ? Not M157.
If indeed M177, best to look for its introduction technical manual and have a read on how the engine oil pump works. Attached.
I read it at a glance, it seems it is very much like M157 its operating profile.
Best to use EPC and get its P/N and compare to M157, see if they are both 100% the same.
2018 GLS 63 is using M177 engine right ? Not M157.
If indeed M177, best to look for its introduction technical manual and have a read on how the engine oil pump works. Attached.
I read it at a glance, it seems it is very much like M157 its operating profile.
Best to use EPC and get its P/N and compare to M157, see if they are both 100% the same.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
