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I normally drive the beater in the rain, but I happened to take the 63 yesterday and it was pouring.
I was curious about traction issues, so I did a draggy and busted out my 2nd best 0-60 (3.3 vs 3.26)
It would appear pouring rain and saturated asphalt has no affect on traction.
I'm impressed... Especially considering all my previous cars which struggle to get traction on dry pavement. Cts-v, z06, E55 etc)
I normally drive the beater in the rain, but I happened to take the 63 yesterday and it was pouring.
I was curious about traction issues, so I did a draggy and busted out my 2nd best 0-60 (3.3 vs 3.26)
It would appear pouring rain and saturated asphalt has no affect on traction.
I'm impressed... Especially considering all my previous cars which struggle to get traction on dry pavement. Cts-v, z06, E55 etc)
(Stock tune)
@kennyd pretty damn impressive considering many can’t hit those times on dry pavement!
hey what tires you running? All seasons my guess? Or thought you were a MP4S tire guy but I could be wrong
AWD obviously. I'm 2wd The lower that DA # the better the car runs, on avg. So I always note that #. My guess is lower in the rain? I never checked in the rain because I can't hook when it's dry, so why bother in the rain.
I don't believe anyone uses that 1ft #. It's cheating imo, but not only that there is another rather error in your favor already: Dragy cannot detect the launch, so it detects once it eventually sees movement. So you go a couple feet, or more, before it notices. Add one 1ft and it's only worse. From my experiments the error, on avg, was at least .3 sec quicker than reality, but up to .5 sec. Obviously much worse if I add the 1ft. It also varies each time so it's useless when comparing one launch to another, like wet vs dry, unless you did a bunch of runs and took an avg.
I compare to the cars wheel sensors, which are also delayed a bit because they can't read instantly either, but probably 100x better than than gps. I also adjust out the error so 60 is really 60. Then I compare that to each Dragy time.
My best Dragy time was 3.88, or 3.64 1ft. Per the wheel sensors that run was 4.34. I recall after that run and thought; "Fk, wasted run, try again." Then I looked at Dragy and, wth? Not the worst error it has given me, but it was the lowest #.
My best per the wheel sensors is 4.00, and Dragy read 3.97 on that run. So it can be pretty close, but that's a rare exception. Normal is .3, but again, totally unpredictable.
I contacted Dragy and they said the next version will have an accelerometer, which is how you detect the launch. So they're aware of the problem, but sold it all these years as if it was fine. For distance, like 1/4 mile, it's much better but there's still some error. I will not give them any more of my $ for this new model because imo the original was false advertising. Imo the new one should be given for free to existing customers, but Dragy don't exist to give you good data, it exists to make $, and they already have mine.
It isn't my only problem with it, but they simply won't respond to my emails, which is another reason not to give them more $.
AWD obviously. I'm 2wd The lower that DA # the better the car runs, on avg. So I always note that #. My guess is lower in the rain? I never checked in the rain because I can't hook when it's dry, so why bother in the rain.
I don't believe anyone uses that 1ft #. It's cheating imo, but not only that there is another rather error in your favor already: Dragy cannot detect the launch, so it detects once it eventually sees movement. So you go a couple feet, or more, before it notices. Add one 1ft and it's only worse. From my experiments the error, on avg, was at least .3 sec quicker than reality, but up to .5 sec. Obviously much worse if I add the 1ft. It also varies each time so it's useless when comparing one launch to another, like wet vs dry, unless you did a bunch of runs and took an avg.
I compare to the cars wheel sensors, which are also delayed a bit because they can't read instantly either, but probably 100x better than than gps. I also adjust out the error so 60 is really 60. Then I compare that to each Dragy time.
My best Dragy time was 3.88, or 3.64 1ft. Per the wheel sensors that run was 4.34. I recall after that run and thought; "Fk, wasted run, try again." Then I looked at Dragy and, wth? Not the worst error it has given me, but it was the lowest #.
My best per the wheel sensors is 4.00, and Dragy read 3.97 on that run. So it can be pretty close, but that's a rare exception. Normal is .3, but again, totally unpredictable.
I contacted Dragy and they said the next version will have an accelerometer, which is how you detect the launch. So they're aware of the problem, but sold it all these years as if it was fine. For distance, like 1/4 mile, it's much better but there's still some error. I will not give them any more of my $ for this new model because imo the original was false advertising. Imo the new one should be given for free to existing customers, but Dragy don't exist to give you good data, it exists to make $, and they already have mine.
It isn't my only problem with it, but they simply won't respond to my emails, which is another reason not to give them more $.
i've used my Dragy at several official drag strips and its usually incredibly accurate and nearly dead on with the results the track / paper slip shows and maybe .01 or less off and 1 mph. One of my past runs at Great Lakes Dragway my paper slip showed 10.78 and trap mph of 128 and the dragy was 10.77 at 129mph. Not exact or perfect but amazingly close and I'm talking without the 1 foot roll out which I am not a fan of but some use.
Try it 0-60 and see what happens. This was the main reason I bought mine, and it was a fail.
They told me they use an algorithm to correct the 1/4 mile error, but clearly it doesn't work on 0-60. I'd imagine it needs both speed and distance for the algorithm to work?
I only got the one reply from them, which was the algorithm thing and the next version will have the accelerometer to fix the 0-60 problem. They also claimed they sent my request to tech support, for my other questions, but that was many months ago.
Basically I got blown off. I can picture it on their end: Oh crap, a customer who figured out we have a problem. The fix; block email.
That's interesting, according to tirerack those tires not approved on this car, I was told that there's a weight rating issue or similar, and so I had to get the Michelin pilot super sport. any concerns about that ?
Most tires have a good enough rating, but maybe with his launch the weight transfer is 4000 of his 4100 lbs are on the back and he just blew past it
What did tirerack say those were rated at? Seems to me most are at least 1500lbs, so minus the near-wheelies, seems plenty to me.
I don't mind pushing tire limits, but that made me think of a story that stretches the word "exceed":
At work, long ago, we were grossly overloading a trailer, regularly, and were now going to add even more weight. The total tire load rating was just under 4k and we were putting 10k on 'em :o
They looked like riding mower tires, short n fat, but still just sketchy little things on what couldn't have been more than a 10" wheel? Split wheel if I recall correctly, with inner tubes.
The engineers said it was ok because we didn't exceed ~15mph and the trip was only ~1mile. I reminded them "you know there are speed bumps on the route, right?" No comment. I asked if they wanted to get under it while we loaded it. Also no comment as they ignored me and walked away.
Crazier was the trailer itself, because if you lose a tire, no biggie, but one look at the trailer and you'd say, Mmmm, maybe it's good for ~2Klbs, but even then I wouldn't personally do it. It was a makeshift lookin thing made of aluminum U-channel, no bracing, no bolts (welded), no reinforcements. The frame was bent from use and listing worse when loaded. No idea how it survived. I've made, and abused, more than a few trailers so I'd know.
On top of all that, one time, a guy hauled said load and forgot to tie it down. When done he got out and went to remove the straps, oops.... I can still recall the look on his face. Oh, and the load cost >$6mil and not replaceable, which kinda makes it worth a lot more and you should be extra careful with it? How much could a real trailer and tires cost?
That's interesting, according to tirerack those tires not approved on this car, I was told that there's a weight rating issue or similar, and so I had to get the Michelin pilot super sport. any concerns about that ?
You do realize the oe tires was either a Michelin or Continental? And Mercedes still recommended the Michelins as their oe replacement (as well as tire rack?)
What’s the best way to launch these cars? I’m ashamed to say i had mines for 2 yrs and never launched it 🫣
Easiest way is just race start.
Fastest is hold the brake hard, mash the gas all the way.. rpms will rise, let off at no sooner than 2000 rpm and no later then 2,500rpm (other wise the launch will be rejected)
Easiest way is just race start.
Fastest is hold the brake hard, mash the gas all the way.. rpms will rise, let off at no sooner than 2000 rpm and no later then 2,500rpm (other wise the launch will be rejected)
I have heard over and again just holding the brakes in S+ may be faster...and no button games...
Stick with launch control unless you want to destroy your transmission or are drag racing for equivalent cost to replace it. I’ve never heard of anybody, snapping their transmission or output shaft with Race Start start, but many have done it with the brake boost. If you break boost it around 2000 RPM you’ll always get a better launch but again it comes with a consequence of wearing down your output shaft.
If you have a TCU tune, you are told not to use Race Start because it will blow something up. You are told to use brake boost to start. (Eurocharged instructions.)
If you have a TCU tune, you are told not to use Race Start because it will blow something up. You are told to use brake boost to start. (Eurocharged instructions.)
1st time hearing this. And E/C are the ones that flashed my TCU.
If you have a TCU tune, you are told not to use Race Start because it will blow something up. You are told to use brake boost to start. (Eurocharged instructions.)
ecatx, did my edok tcu tune, told me I could race start but said best launch would be with brake boost
I seen plenty of dead output shafts with over 100+ launches brake boosting after tcu tunes ... nobody was using race start
I wonder how many broken shafts were 2WD? Or is it just an AWD thing? I'm 2WD and wondering if I should be a little or a lot concerned? I worry more about wheel hop breaking it. Apparently very few people have wheel hop with IRS, and how/why it happens I don't know, but I'm one of them.
If I brake boost I barely get any boost, like 2 psi, and the wheels break free. Maybe I just have way more power than a 63
No point anyway because that's guaranteed wheel spin, and often hop, so to avoid that I need to keep MAP low, like 8psi. Still undecided if power braking is better than not at all. Either way I do it it may or may not launch well, and either way may or may not lose traction. Very frustrating...
No race start for me, maybe it's an AMG only thing?
ok. I’m not trying to be THE authority on this, so I would recommend firing off an email to EC if you have concerns.
No, no. I was just saying that this is the 1st I'd heard that.
Originally Posted by PeterUbers
ecatx, did my edok tcu tune, told me I could race start but said best launch would be with brake boost
Yeah that's what Adam relayed. He said he recommended brake boosting over Race Start because it was quicker. He even took me out to show me the difference and the best way to brake boost after the TCU tune was done. lol
No, no. I was just saying that this is the 1st I'd heard that.
Yeah that's what Adam relayed. He said he recommended brake boosting over Race Start because it was quicker. He even took me out to show me the difference and the best way to brake boost after the TCU tune was done. lol
Adam literally told me same and took me to side streets as well to demonstrate... it was the first time in ownership I saw all four wheels peel out on launch ... was a great feeling (as I'm like "please don't break please don't break")
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The lower that DA # the better the car runs, on avg. So I always note that #. My guess is lower in the rain? I never checked in the rain because I can't hook when it's dry, so why bother in the rain.
