It's not "weak solder joints"
it's the absence of missing solder joints
All it needs is.... the missing solder joints.

The pressed pins oxidize and connection become unreliable with unstable voltage thresholds: PURE CHAOS!

Great write up linked. Easy enough, 10 minutes sounds good.

Its a lot easier to fix built-in failures than :

1. Locate part numbers
2. Order available new/used stock
3. Code parts to chassis
4. Test parts for fitment

​​​​​​Hours!!!

not to mention the potential of getting something defective, more headaches, more hair pulled.

very true!

I like KISS. It's the opposite of nonsense "could not reproduce... come again!" idiots game.

When you want a job done right, we do it ourselves.

I just had this happen to Me. No shift from park. I pulled the shifter. Separated the top and bottom of the module as far as I could without removing the shifter handle. Sprayed contact cleaner between the two and on the wiring plug. Put it back together and it shifts now. Did I fix it or did I get lucky?

Any luck is good!
Connect your scanner to see what is not happening.

Getting out of - Park - into - Drive - is not trivial Remote Module networking is involved.

What am I looking for on a scan? I have xentry and a icarsoft scanner.

So here's the stored codes in Xentry. Direct select interface malfunction
Direct select lever malfunction
No CAN message received from Direct select interface
Gear range "P" malfunction.
LIN BUS 1 malfunction.
Of course the car worked fine again today up and down the driveway.
I can't decide if I should order the shifter and have it on hand or wait for the car to strand Me.It's about a 15 minute job to swap the module. No idea hard hard it is to remove the shifter handle.

Now you are the crossroads where you can decide your course... you have done the troubleshooting to see exactly that the LIN shifter interface is acting up.

Deal with this before it quits on your way somewhere!

Either take 5mn to resolder the loose solderless pins
or replace new shifter module (no coding necessary) with the same technology.

Then do a post-mortem investigation to see the innard simplicity. I bet this is caused by 4x missing solder joint on PCB LIN connector - Let us see!

My soldering skills are not good. I'll have to find the soldering fix thread and read it over. I need the car tomorrow so hopefully I get 4 more shifts out of it.

Ok, then replace new/used shifter module and practice soldering on your used original one to be ready in case of repeats.

I did notice that the "P R N D" letters are much brighter after the shot of contact cleaner.

that is textbook evidence of how poor connections drop voltage.

When marginal voltage is present to power a module, the available networking voltage is unstable. This causes stuttering repeats COMS to consume available bandwidth.

These solderless pins opportunities are built onto essential circuit boards (door modules: DCU's, KeylessG, rain sensor, EIS, AAC, SCM, ISM, ESP, ...) to help modules experience marginal operations.

Without electronic soldering skills... you can simply use a SCANNER to survey failing modules plus a CTEK smart-CHARGER to preserve your batteries drained by sleepless CAN-B modules.

Understand that Engine/tranny operation thrive on proper data networking.
REBOOT helps bring sanity back into CGW operation.

My '14 had this issue when I picked it up. It'd only manifest when I left the car parked at an incline. Took it in to dealership...and, whatddaya know?... "Could not reproduce" and even though it still had warranty "We can not just throw parts at the car w/o knowing if it's really defective". I later took the car to a speed shop to get the KW HAS installed and spoke to that guy about the issue. He told me that it was likely the electric motor (shifter) just wasn't strong enough to get the car out of PARK when one would allow all the weight of the vehicle rest on the trans. Recommended that if the problem ever popped up again... to have someone push the car just enough to relief pressure off the trans and shift it out of PARK. Sorta made sense to me. The problem caught me by surprise once... I opened the driver's side door, with me left leg on the ground and my back up against the B pillar, I rocked the car back a smidge. Got back in the car and it worked. Not saying this should be the remedy for this issue, but worth a shot when you are caught by surprise. I made a point of making sure I put the car in NEUTRAL, engaging the E-Brake and then putting it in PARK... (when parking the car) and the issue never came up again.
Additionally, that one time the issue "caught me by surprise" was AFTER I got a new AUX battery.

My issue happened on a flat surface. There is so much play in the trans when parking on even a small incline, I've started using the parking brake all the time. I hate that 1 inch roll when letting off the brake in park. But this is the first non- manual trans car I've ever owned.