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Does redline fuel additives or amsoil fuel additive help this in any sort of way?
Theory is it will keep valves cleaner, keep rings cleaner so no blowby(therefore cleaner valves), keep injectors clean so fuel is combusted and reduce fuel dilution in oil (which could increase blowby if dilute). Same theory with sp oil or top tier fuel. So, once the valves are cleaner, pea will help keep them clean.
Did you try any of the shops in Chicago? Not sure how far west pa you are, but that’s a pretty remote place to find something so specialized.
Chicago is 12 hours west of Me. I'm looking in the Philly area now.
the work you want done is substantial. Because of the platform. Unlike
other setups where you can just put a spray in the intake, rev to 3k and clean some out, you can’t do that with the m157. So you’re gonna have to pay for the labor of removing the intake, the time to clean the valves and if you wanna clean the piston tops then the injectors need to come out. Is it worth it? In my opinion absolutely.
the work you want done is substantial. Because of the platform. Unlike
other setups where you can just put a spray in the intake, rev to 3k and clean some out, you can’t do that with the m157. So you’re gonna have to pay for the labor of removing the intake, the time to clean the valves and if you wanna clean the piston tops then the injectors need to come out. Is it worth it? In my opinion absolutely.
Yeah, these platforms with direct injection pumps and rails running across the engine plus the intercooler setup is quite intimidating. I would diy, but was lucky the dealer worked with me during warranty which was ending, and an open checkbook.. A great experience in another post. If money is a factor, anyone can do this work with enough time if they have the proper tools and directions, it's just a lot of steps but not "hard" per se. It kinda touches all the systems.
This is a job best combined with replacing plastic items at the back of the engine, and sensors that are almost otherwise inaccessible. Maybe even pressure testing the intercooler while up in there. Removing intake and cleaning when my warranty paid was about 3200 for the intake and heater valve (like 50 dollars of total cost). and then one hour for the chemical cleaning, which took them more than an hour.
For the piston tops, I had some pretty good success with a berryman's soak and fogging with seafoam over a day. Car has to have a bit of an angle, which is why I fogged directly into the cylinder also..which I understand is not for everyone so do at your own risk. My pistons did not look as bad as the valves but were dirty. Pics of those were in a different thread on boroscoping. Super happy to have clean cylinders and valves for now, and hoping to prove the theory of preventive chemical maintenance over the next bunch of years.
the work you want done is substantial. Because of the platform. Unlike
other setups where you can just put a spray in the intake, rev to 3k and clean some out, you can’t do that with the m157. So you’re gonna have to pay for the labor of removing the intake, the time to clean the valves and if you wanna clean the piston tops then the injectors need to come out. Is it worth it? In my opinion absolutely.
Yeah I get it will be expensive but I don't have a walnut blaster nor have I ever used one. I'm at 73k so I think it's a good time. When I replaced plugs at 50k. the piston tops weren't bad. I really want to keep this car a long time if possible. Finding a shop has not been easy so far. I don't want to use MB if I don't have too.
Yeah, these platforms with direct injection pumps and rails running across the engine plus the intercooler setup is quite intimidating. I would diy, but was lucky the dealer worked with me during warranty which was ending, and an open checkbook.. A great experience in another post. If money is a factor, anyone can do this work with enough time if they have the proper tools and directions, it's just a lot of steps but not "hard" per se. It kinda touches all the systems.
This is a job best combined with replacing plastic items at the back of the engine, and sensors that are almost otherwise inaccessible. Maybe even pressure testing the intercooler while up in there. Removing intake and cleaning when my warranty paid was about 3200 for the intake and heater valve (like 50 dollars of total cost). and then one hour for the chemical cleaning, which took them more than an hour.
For the piston tops, I had some pretty good success with a berryman's soak and fogging with seafoam over a day. Car has to have a bit of an angle, which is why I fogged directly into the cylinder also..which I understand is not for everyone so do at your own risk. My pistons did not look as bad as the valves but were dirty. Pics of those were in a different thread on boroscoping. Super happy to have clean cylinders and valves for now, and hoping to prove the theory of preventive chemical maintenance over the next bunch of years.
Yeah I get it will be expensive but I don't have a walnut blaster nor have I ever used one. I'm at 73k so I think it's a good time. When I replaced plugs at 50k. the piston tops weren't bad. I really want to keep this car a long time if possible. Finding a shop has not been easy so far. I don't want to use MB if I don't have too.
where are you located? No man don’t use mb. This takes someone who has done this. Know how to turn the engine and when, this requires flushing the oil afterwards as well, because you want to run the engine enough to heat up then drain out, which helps remove excess oil that are stuck on the rings. This process is tedious, requires a super thin high quality bore scope that has telescoping, needing to have spray extensions that can reach where you need. It involves bringing fluid to tdc, letting it sit, scrubbing out what you can with a soft brush, then dropping the cylinder, removing the plug to vacuum out the sludge. You’re looking at around 3500 . Based on a 125hr rate. Thats 24hr of labor with everything including the intake removal, injectors , multiple cans
of chemicals, etc. that way atleast you have an idea what you may be charged as long as they stick to 125hr. A lot of places are asking $150 and even higher for AMGs.
Baltimore is about 4 hours. I dont think my dealer would offer this service, as I had asked them and they only did it because they were in there. Mercedes-MD and Agile Auto are highly rated shops though I have no direct experience.
So far the best response was " My technician said it's easier to replace the intake manifold" What?
you should’ve said well that sounds like a great answer, please remove my intake clean the valves while you are in there and then replace the intake that you took off. Sounds like they’re saying it’s an easy job….lol. And then if they give you any sort of sarcastic answer, you can just let them know that the valves are not in the intake so the guy might wanna learn how cars actually work, because it’s also easier to change a tire, but that’s not what you asked for. I know obviously you’re not gonna do that but just keep trying..
I found Agile Auto website. It's a possibility. A Syracuse shop wanted to research it and get back to Me. They do Audi work so it can't be that much different.
My guy - Mercedes certified Master Mechanic....$205/hr. But, he is cheaper than me by the hour ;-)
your 100% right . Some even 250hr. I charge $125 on this service for a few reasons . First is because how long it takes, and since it’s a tedious job charging 200hr just would make most take their chance in other ways. Also since the hourly rate is fair it allows us to tell them it’s gonna be about a week, and since we are fair they become fair with the time frame . This cannot be rushed,
your 100% right . Some even 250hr. I charge $125 on this service for a few reasons . First is because how long it takes, and since it’s a tedious job charging 200hr just would make most take their chance in other ways. Also since the hourly rate is fair it allows us to tell them it’s gonna be about a week, and since we are fair they become fair with the time frame . This cannot be rushed,
Maybe I need to figure a way to get the car to You.
Finally. Found a shop in Syracuse that will clean the valves. 3k$ +/-. I'll have them take before and after pics. Car goes in Tues the 20th. Syracuse about 2 hours north of Me so not a horrible drive.
Finally. Found a shop in Syracuse that will clean the valves. 3k$ +/-. I'll have them take before and after pics. Car goes in Tues the 20th. Syracuse about 2 hours north of Me so not a horrible drive.
not just the valves. You need to do inside the cylinders each,, removing as much build up on the rings piston etc. make sure they are aware. Just the valves won’t resolve the carbon deposits at tdc
that is really not bad considering the turbo GDI territory 73kMi 👍
Lower mileage engines have been shown with much thicker buildup on the intake valve stems.
The valves buildup is 100% from non combusted vaporized oil.
What is the look of cylinder walls above pistons side where deposits can buildup?
Inside combustion chambers oil carbon is combusted... only SP/SN package heavies are left behind.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 21, 2026 at 04:59 PM.
If I could have found a walnut blaster to rent, I would have done it Myself. I feel good about overall. Now onto shocks, brakes and fluid, alignment issues and.........
If I could have found a walnut blaster to rent, I would have done it Myself. I feel good about overall. Now onto shocks, brakes and fluid, alignment issues and.........
if you have a compressor, you can make a cheapie for 100 bucks or buy one off Amazon for about 300. Your valves pretty much looked exactly like my valves at 72,000 miles… stock p30, no scoring, two wet rings, frequent oil changes with too much Ceratec. Cleaned it all up and now sp oil and no additives other than occasional pea should keep it clean…er, hoping rings are now free but wont check till spring.
