what do you mean by your back and forth on the solenoid?

 

I had it unplugged and I believe in the theory, but then I had some warranty work to replace that solenoid harness because it was leaking from the engine. So the solenoid was plugged back in. I wanted to make sure all the warranty work was good before I unplugged it again, but I’ve only since done about 2000 miles, maybe. I’ll unplug in spring when I change the oil.

 

no need to experiment imo. The cleaners are designed to keep things clean over time but not to clean heavily. Unfortunately, YouTube presenters don’t follow the best scientific theory. I don’t look at their inability to clean as a failure so much as using the wrong product at the wrong time.. i’m the type of guy that would have no problem using something like restore and protect if it was made in a European viscosity and I had an issue I thought it could help. Similar to changing transmission fluid, it’s not the new fluid that kills the transmission, it was all of the lack of prior maintenance and an already dead transmission.

 

Liquimoly’s DI Jectron along with Redline Fuel System Cleaner. Di jectron every 1k mile and redline fuel cleaner every 2k mile over the span of 10-20K+ miles would or wouldn’t be helpful to this situation?

 

as long as you follow the directions on the can. Many bottles say not to add more than X amount of times per oil change or miles. Red line seems to be a company that says you can use it more frequently but two times per oil change is about my limit because you could have some oil dilution from using too many chemicals through the injectors. I always change the oil after a second treatment. Who knows how much will be needed for prevention but it’s something to investigate as we continue to drive this platform, with inspections along the way.

5/50 sp will be the biggest help, imho.

 

which brand of 5w50 have you used?

 

castrol because it’s local. I’d also consider Motul or new Mobil one. I’d do short oci, fwiw.

 

mobil supercar?

motul 8100 power?

 

> STEP BY STEP...
You have a real opportunity with these oil brands.
They each make both a W40 and W50 viscosities.

You can experiment blending like for like to make your own intermediate oil. That's the way I transitioned viscosity.

I would still start with 5kMi of Motul 5W-40 rather than directly Motul 5W-50 or "Supercar".

Do not rush the cleaning stages to only W50 dynamic seal. Best results require best seal and adapted controls.


> WORDS OF CAUTION ...
I believe there a risk involved by relying on artificial viscosity seal only for high output use.
Random cylinders compressions cause uneven crank rotation get poor GDI timings control. We are seeking the smooth opposite.

You best should rely on clean rings for solid seal, not quick viscous oil seal.

I believe the key to be safe is not to rush through upgrade steps. Engine has to cleanup and ECU/TCU adapt to it for great throttle response.

What's bad about W50 upgrade is rushing to it on a drafty engine, not the oil brand. My opinions may be wrong, it's your experimental journey, be safe with choices.

CLEARLY....
If you decide to jump to W50, your engine will ping like there's no tomorrow - Read the main thread...

 

yeah, anything from the “solenoid” thread is fine like Cali mentioned. I always ran Motul 5/40 prior, no issues at switch up.The only thing to avoid is high zinc if you have cats. Any sp rating will be better than what was available when the car was designed.

 

Hi Cali. I couldn't find any stuff in this thread about that you said "If you decide to jump to W50, your engine will ping like there's no tomorrow"

Cold you be kind and open and explain that more to me?

 

Yea I have no idea what he means by that . You can go right to 50w .

 

If your engine does not ping under load then what follows is no concern.

Pinging is what happens when ignition takes place too early before TDC. Piston is still traveling upward when early ignition starts pushing it downward.

Result is pistons go sideways in their cylinder bore and cause the pistons skirt to ping much like a church bell.
This is a very old problem... so V-engines are equiped with two ping sensors to help manage timing issue.

ECU efficiency dictate to ignite near TDC. Modern engines timings are never far from pinging...
Typically spark is around 10° before top dead center to have effective cylinder ignition near TDC. Meaning it takes about 10 degrees to fire up the cylinders. This offset is mapped to change based on Rpm, Temps Load,....

GDI engines use vastly different timings with direct injection.
The ECU injects multiple shots of fuel and fires a string of sparks during compressions to get effective ignition near TDC without ping.

This is a delicate balance exercise the ECU learns through its maps.
I find that switching viscosity significantly upsets these learned data.


> EXPERIMENT:
Before comiting a full 8Qts of fresh W50 target oil change
try boosting your old oil before its replacement.

Look at engine dipstick... the range between low and high is 1Qt.

Without overfilling crankcase, top off old oil with your favorite compatible oil to increase viscosity. Say half-quart of target W50...

Find a hill, open up throttle going up to load engine - What do hear: any skirts pinging?
Report findings over 500.Miles test drive then decide how to replace oil.


Driving up California 45° inclined roads varies engine loads a lot

> Pinging but not LSPI:
Here we are not dealing with destructive pre-ignition pinging LSPI caused by glowing-hot API-SN deposits from drafty rings.

Cleaner combustion chambers is what's always very welcomed to prevent bore-score, right?

 

Okey Cali now I know how you see why the swap to 5W-50 oils will cause pinging, thanks for explaining. I still have a bit hard time to believe that's true and cause problems to people who go straight to 5W-50 oil.

Thank you Cifdig for your comment. I have respect your point of views.

I have run 5W-40 Shell Helix Ultra API SP about few years. I will go next to either Motul 8100 x-cess Gen2 5w-40 API SP (that Motul have a lot versions like API SN etc) or Motul 8100 x-cess Gen2 5W-50 API SP. I don't feel comfortable to make my own oil blending, just use 5W-40 or 5W-50 API SP.

I have done all new lambdas, walnut blasting, flow tested and get cleaned all injectors etc. Car is tuned pretty heavily for M278, so Motul 5W-50 API SP might be the best choice for me.

 

I concur, that all makes sense: no pinging, no blending, upgrading viscosity now



Shell premium "Gas-To-Oil" transitioned SN to SP chemistry like Motul did. Market place still has both types...

Sounds like you're now ready after Shell Helix SP to upgrade to a Motul PAO 5W-50 API-SP to help your engine further cleanup cooled rings.

How can we gauge the status of rings seal cleaning?
Besides dyno, can we do better than measuring compressions at cranking Rpm... Anyone notice brake pedal vacuum booster improving with crankcase blow-by decreasing?

The outcome to this upgrade should be less intake valves and chambers build-up.

Enjoy your journey towards consistent superior performance.

> No rush discoveries..
# In my book nothing gets rushed to avoid surprises from unsetled ECU maps.
I started with slow-poke legacy timings until the day ECU enabled advanced GDI timings - I had no idea what I was missing since new!

I don't know exactly what you may find when ECU rewards you with pressure sensitive throttle lower than when your turbos starts boosting.

The combination of both will be....

The fuel map gets relearned as the engine improves its predictability. I'm positive you'll notice improvements from sealing blow-by losses.

 

Here is the oil what I have used. 5W-40 API SP Shell helix ultra.


Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 API SP


But yeah, I will try Motul 8100 power 5W-50 API SP next, after winter will someday be over and will get cls back to streets.

 

Giant European Shell oil makes some of the very best products. In the US our world giant is Exxon-Mobil.

Funny thing is PAO is really old tech from 1930 pre-WWII...

PAO extreme temp protection since last century

It's about time we use PAO lubricants now that our pistons engines are taken over by electric motors also 100Yr old tech!

 

More Cali nonsense. You are not going to hear pinging on a modern motor with a properly operating ECU and knock sensors. The electronics will hear it long before your ears do and kick the timing and boost back to compensate.

I haven't heard knock or pinging since the 80s, drivng 70s cars.

And even if somehow you did, adding a small amount of 50 weight is going to cure it ?


Yeah....no

 

@TripleDown Seriously, sometimes your man-crush on Cali is a tad disconcerting.

 

TD you always manage to mix up everything:

• magnet sensors/actuators
• W50 curing/causing pings

Bosch electronic controls help engines learn to limit pings under stable conditions. Nothing new besides GDI advanced timings.

Go ahead overload a hot engine uphill to realize how near pinging it's running.
- No ping: no headache... nice!
- Pings: throttle back until engine's ready.

The difference lays in how cylinders load is computed:
- MAP engines compute charge based on vacuum!
- MAF+MAP combo compute charge based on air mass + flow.
In other words as follow:

MAF vs. MAP vs. Combo: day & night.

M278/M157 ECU use both sensors in combination. The source doesn't matter as long as minimal pinging is controlled.

Fresh magnets don't ping.

 

You are the master chef of the word salad, I'll give you that. And Bonus Points for using every conceivable font color, size and style in every post.

Doesn't change the fact that you are way out over your skis most of the time when it comes to auto knowledge. Just because you want something to be true, doesn't mean that it is.

 

Perhaps you haven't realized there's a gap... you're a consumer that buys products & services.

I am not a salesman trying to address your needs. I purposely seldom write entry level anything.
MB SPECIALISTS are the best service PROS.

Trust your own opinion... my opinion has no value on your scale.

"Don't try this at home!"... you car deserve the best MB service.

 

They are far from you but I'd make the trip to ECCTuned in Toronto: https://www.ecctuned.com

 

Thanks for the info. I found a import place in Syracuse that did a good job

 

lol this is so true

I dont understand some forum posters who dont even own a M157 and or a w212 E63 chassis car, have the need to always be in the forum pushing their thoughts as fact. Its really annoying around here.