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Just to clarify, you think the suspension when fully extended (lifted off ground) moves the wheel inward that much?
I was pretty sure it would fit because others are running same size and similar offset so it was strange to have zero clearance.... Can't even put the wheel on fully.
I called the tire shop and they said they will remount one tomorrow and lower it and check.
Yes it moves that much.
When I had the dealer put 305’s on my stock rims they told me it didn’t fit, it touched just like yours.
I took it home and tried - yes it touched the felt when jacked up but when my stubbornness kicked in thinking there’s no way everyone on mbworld was wrong I tightened the bolts lowered it on the ground, stuck my head under the car with a flashlight and it was fine!
When you say “wheel won’t fully go on” - don’t force it - but - if it’s just the felt wheel well that’ll give and you can cinch it up.
It’s probably touching at 3 o’clock on the passenger side and 9 o’clock on the drivers side. On the ground it’ll clear.
If the shock and rim touch and the wheel can’t be physically screwed on there is something else wrong. Measure the backspace then to make sure the wheel was made right.
Hang in there - I also experienced that initial sinking feeling. Have them try again and put the weight on the wheels
Yeah it's hitting the felt at the "high" point of the body underneath. There's one area that the felt liner won't push in at all. That's the point that's actually keeping the wheel from going on on all the way and rotating. The second area it hits is the shock cover boot. But the tire also hit the top metal bracket/support.
My wheels would not rotate either, from touching the felt, but they would at least sit flush on the hub by hand when pushed on.. They can’t get it flush by hand? I’d be hesitant to force it flush with the bolts. But if it was just “lightly” forced it’ll be ok. Like, can all 5 bolts be bottomed out by hand, no ratchet or impact? Just the socket and an extension, turning it like a screw driver? If all the bolts can be put in and wheel sits flush on hub it’ll be ok. Any more force start measuring to make sure 1) wheels are good 2) your car isn’t a freak 3) alignment issue?
Sending good vibes your way!!!
If it still is not working maybe get some 3mm quality hub centric spacers with longer bolts and enjoy life. Unless there is a bigger problem and the wheels are really ET60 by some manufacturing mistake.
Last edited by I.T. Guy; Oct 13, 2025 at 06:29 PM.
I'm actually encouraged by the possibility of the A arm swing arc and therefore having clearance under load.
As for install, the bolts went on all the way by hand, but the wheel is hard stopped on the body. The didn't really go past that as they were reluctant based on possible damage and honestly I didn't even think of the possible suspension movement because I'm used to big trucks, just figured this wasn't dropping enough for that to matter.
Gonna try again tomorrow. Shop agreed to check one wheel and lower to ground. So we'll see. I'm hopeful.
Nope - lowering to sit on ground (ride height) didn't help. Even sitting on the ground there is less than a millimeter between the tire and the body. Putting it on the ground did help one area but then it's just too close on a different area. I'd have to remove the liner AND I'm afraid it would rub while driving around during suspension movement.
I was able to fit a business card in the gap but not a credit card. Shop basically refusing to install them because of lack of sufficient clearance. I agreed. It's just too close. If it was 5-6mm I'd probably accept it.
I'm asking the mfr to remake with a 10.5 wide wheel and 50mm offset. Basically same outer surface placement but 0.5in clearance on inside edge.
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT (sold) 1993 Mazda RX7 (sold)
Originally Posted by BRGR TME
Nope - lowering to sit on ground (ride height) didn't help. Even sitting on the ground there is less than a millimeter between the tire and the body. Putting it on the ground did help one area but then it's just too close on a different area. I'd have to remove the liner AND I'm afraid it would rub while driving around during suspension movement.
I was able to fit a business card in the gap but not a credit card. Shop basically refusing to install them because of lack of sufficient clearance. I agreed. It's just too close. If it was 5-6mm I'd probably accept it.
I'm asking the mfr to remake with a 10.5 wide wheel and 50mm offset. Basically same outer surface placement but 0.5in clearance on inside edge.
Damn man, sorry to hear about this. I'm hoping for your sake the manufacturer can step up and do the right thing (?)
Admittedly, you have me a little concerned as I'm about to put on new wheels which are 20x11 ET 50.
i just don t see how its possible. I'm extremely uncomfortable runnign the tire just 1mm from the body panel and even with that, id have to remove the/trim the felt liner.
What offset did you get? what size tires? I even had the tire shop put the stock 295/30 on the new wheel and still didnt have much room.
I'm currently asking the wheel mfr to remake them in 10.5 with 50mm offset. if they do, im just gonna run stock tire sizes - tire shop currently has my 275/35 and 305/30 in storage waiting to hear from wheel guy
Last edited by BRGR TME; Oct 14, 2025 at 07:15 PM.
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT (sold) 1993 Mazda RX7 (sold)
Originally Posted by BRGR TME
i just don t see how its possible. I'm extremely uncomfortable runnign the tire just 1mm from the body panel and even with that, id have to remove the/trim the felt liner.
What offset did you get? what size tires? I even had the tire shop put the stock 295/30 on the new wheel and still didnt have much room.
I'm currently asking the wheel mfr to remake them in 10.5 with 50mm offset. if they do, im just gonna run stock tire sizes
I have 20x11 +50 offset. I too was told by BC Forged these would fit, so I’m really banking on that. I’m also going to be using stock tires sizes (295/30) until the treads on my DWS’s run out.
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT (sold) 1993 Mazda RX7 (sold)
Originally Posted by BRGR TME
I think with 50 you'll be ok. That will have 6+mm over what I have.
If you throw spacers on like @ I.T. Guy suggested, would you be dangerously close to contacting the fender, and if so, would adding a KMAC Camber kit resolve your issues? I certainly don't have the answer to those questions, but maybe an option should the manufacturer not help you out.
I went out to the garage and did a test fit of mine...
Looks like I have about .5" clearance from the shock cover boot. How in the world would a 305 tire fit in here without destroying that boot?
If you throw spacers on like @ I.T. Guy suggested, would you be dangerously close to contacting the fender, and if so, would adding a KMAC Camber kit resolve your issues? I certainly don't have the answer to those questions, but maybe an option should the manufacturer not help you out.
I went out to the garage and did a test fit of mine...
Looks like I have about .5" clearance from the shock cover boot. How in the world would a 305 tire fit in here without destroying that boot?
Mike
on compression, the wheel/tire will be up at the top, near the shock perch....that metakl bracket up at the top. i think youll be fine still, but mine is dangerously close and rubs on another part of the body, if looking at the driver side, sort of oin the 2 o clock position, theres a really high spot on the body, and it definitely rubs the fender liner on mine. it sgonnas just destory that felt.
so far the mfr is only offering to remake at cost and I pay full shipping and te re-ceramic the new wwheel, even though HE suggested 56mm offset after i repeatedly expressed concern. Im hoping he changes his tune because I really feel like he sort of pushed me to that offset but in the end i did agree. I would rather run 20x10.5 et50 in the rear and run stock tire sizes than have issues with rubbing etc. PLUS, i have a warranty that may preclude me from runnign that larger tires size? separate issue for now but definitely on my mind
I also priced some 5mm hubcedntric spacers but then im runnign spacers, which i dont want to do, and the outer face is ion a different location that planned. UGH
As for the boot, on the inside edge i dont think the tire sticks out as far as the face side because who cares if the inner edge gets scraped etc. But on mine its rubbing even with 295's
Last edited by BRGR TME; Oct 15, 2025 at 05:24 PM.
If you throw spacers on like @ I.T. Guy suggested, would you be dangerously close to contacting the fender, and if so, would adding a KMAC Camber kit resolve your issues? I certainly don't have the answer to those questions, but maybe an option should the manufacturer not help you out.
I went out to the garage and did a test fit of mine...
Looks like I have about .5" clearance from the shock cover boot. How in the world would a 305 tire fit in here without destroying that boot?
Mike
Tire and wheel will be up here near this area when sitting on the ground
I run 20x11 et52 with 305s in the rear and they don't rub at all. I haven't looked under the car while it's planted, but when I swap to my winters, there are no rub marks on the liner. That being said, if I were to order wheels again, I'd run et50 just because I'd like it a touch more flush.
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT (sold) 1993 Mazda RX7 (sold)
Originally Posted by AB550
I run 20x11 et52 with 305s in the rear and they don't rub at all. I haven't looked under the car while it's planted, but when I swap to my winters, there are no rub marks on the liner. That being said, if I were to order wheels again, I'd run et50 just because I'd like it a touch more flush.
Well it sounds like I should be good to go then. 👍🏻
Originally Posted by BRGR TME
Tire and wheel will be up here near this area when sitting on the ground
Thank you for clarifying with the arrows. Sometimes it's hard to envision this stuff when not being shown first-hand.
Without going into much detail as its not necessary yet, mfr has agreed to remake the rear wheels at their cost. We'll see. I specifically told them they need to remake for free, ship for free AND refund me the ceramic coating cost as that will have to be redone on the new wheels. At first they said no, but when i reminded them that I originally asked for 50mm offfset and it was their suggestion to change to 56 AND i specifically questioned the inside features and interference and after several (three) suggestions by them to change to 56, i agreed based on them telling there is nothing to worry about, they will not rub etc., they finally said yes, it was their mistake to suggest 56mm.
Besides all that, if they actually remake them and the powder coat matches AND I receive them, I have adjusted the rear sizing to 20x10.5 et50 so there is no chance of rubbing and I am going switch back to stock size tires. Front fits at 20x10 and stock tires will fit on the slightly wider wheels both front and rear. Hopefully the tire shop will cancel/refund/exchange the tires. So that's the next hurdle today.
so in the end, the front fits as is with the wider tires AND/or stock size tire. Rears dont fit.....20x10 et17 front and 20x11 et56 rear. Was planning to run 275/35 Front and 305/30 Rear. Now I am going to be at the following...
20x10 et17 with stock 265/35 front
20x10.5 et50 with stock 295/30 rear
Last edited by BRGR TME; Oct 16, 2025 at 01:00 PM.
@BRGR TME Sorry to hear the fitment issue and I'm kind of shocked. I would have bet money it would fit and was stoked for you and your new wheels.
This winter I was planning on sending out my rears to widen to 11" - then with a 15mm spacer they would have an ET of 52.
Now I'm kind of nervous! If they mess up a couple mm here/there it sounds like they won't fit!
Hmph.
Is the ET really 56? Math says Bead to Mounting Surface should be around 195mm and outside lip to mounting surface (assuming "standard" 1/2" lip) should be 207mm. Did they make the wheels right in the first place?
I'm blown away ET55 works with 315 but ET56 is a no-go with 305. I guess it is what it is!
Last edited by I.T. Guy; Oct 16, 2025 at 01:28 PM.
@BRGR TME Sorry to hear the fitment issue and I'm kind of shocked. I would have bet money it would fit and was stoked for you and your new wheels.
This winter I was planning on sending out my rears to widen to 11" - then with a 15mm spacer they would have an ET of 52.
Now I'm kind of nervous! If they mess up a couple mm here/there it sounds like they won't fit!
Hmph.
Is the ET really 56? Math says Bead to Mounting Surface should be around 195mm and outside lip to mounting surface (assuming "standard" 1/2" lip) should be 207mm. Did they make the wheels right in the first place?
I'm blown away ET55 works with 315 but ET56 is a no-go with 305. I guess it is what it is!
This is what I measured......it seems its actually 56mm, maybe even slightly less at 55.85, but like i said, even the stock tire is an issue
Last edited by BRGR TME; Oct 16, 2025 at 01:56 PM.
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT (sold) 1993 Mazda RX7 (sold)
New Wheels!
Sorry for the mediocre (and not so many) iPhone pics. Hope I can produce some better ones once I get her cleaned up and the ride height dialed in.
Curious to know what the collective thinks, but I happen to LOVE them!
BC Forged KL51s in Bright Graphite Grey - 20x10 ET +15 Front - 20x11 ET +50 Rear - OEM Tire sizes for the moment until I can run these DWSs out of tread.
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