When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have stock sport exhaust in my e63s edition 1, but it is a little too quiet for my liking even at sport plus and valve turned on and I wanted a bit more sound. I wonder if any one of you had replaced your stock performance exhaust to after market exhaust? If so, can you share your experience and which one you had gone for?
Have you thought about the RENNtech exhaust valve module? My brother has it on his car and it makes a huge difference. RENNtech has said even in Sport Plus the valves don’t open 100%. It’s nice to have the car in comfort if you want and still have an aggressive sound. Comes with a nice quality remote to switch between modes.
Did your brother have stock regular exhaust or sport exhaust where he can manually turn on the valve by the button?
Originally Posted by Hiflyin20
Have you thought about the RENNtech exhaust valve module? My brother has it on his car and it makes a huge difference. RENNtech has said even in Sport Plus the valves don’t open 100%. It’s nice to have the car in comfort if you want and still have an aggressive sound. Comes with a nice quality remote to switch between modes.
He has the valved sport exhaust. The problem is even with that and sport plus the valves don’t open up all the way and then when they open to they’re max it’s only at higher RPM bands. With the module you can open them 100% and leave them. It sounds great to me and with a button push you can go back to stock control. They have a sound video on the website. I went to the shop and they do unbelievable work. The products are pricey but well engineered and they stand by them. I would do it but my car is a lease.
E 63S Wagon Renntech, E55 Renntech, SL65, SL 55 030, ML, bunch of old ones--they come, they go...
I have...
the Akropovich. Stupid expensive, Beautifully built and I love the sound. Sport is not too loud and normal, makes a nice hum.....
Did I mention it was stupidly expensive? Quite a piece tho.....
He has the valved sport exhaust. The problem is even with that and sport plus the valves don’t open up all the way and then when they open to they’re max it’s only at higher RPM bands. With the module you can open them 100% and leave them. It sounds great to me and with a button push you can go back to stock control. They have a sound video on the website. I went to the shop and they do unbelievable work. The products are pricey but well engineered and they stand by them. I would do it but my car is a lease.
i could be wrong but i heard that you *want* the valves closed from low speed because it makes 0-60 time faster. something about backpressure... like you *lose* performance by having valves open all of the time from a stop
I have the Akrapovic Exhaust as well, it is expensive, it its light as a feather , and really an art piece that no one will ever see lol. But the sound with Keller-performance high flow cat Downpipes and then Renntech EMV is amazing. Akrapovic uses a X pipe instead of the H pipe in the stock exhaust so it does slightly change the sound, but unfortunately I have a rattle in my X pipe when its in comfort mode. That being said I do love the sound, with out the downpipes its a tad quieter at lower speeds but when you are in S+ its amazing. As for the the valves closed for back pressure, I really do not know. I have mine set to open all the time and I really haven't felt any loss. Wish I had more input regarding that. There`s only a few companies that I can think of that offer a exhaust; Akrapovic $$$$$, Meisterschaft $$$$, AWE $$$, **Armytrix I really do not know about so I cannot say.
it says they only fit C63 on both other sites and the vendor website. can you confirm they work for w213 e63s?
I have it and few others so I can confirm it works perfectly. Renntech is the US dealer for ASR so the price they charge is ridiculous. I got mine from a European vendor for half the Renntech price. If you look at the RENNtech one it is a ASR module with a sticker.
I wondered if it would be worth it since my car is already loud but I love it. Great having valves open all the time. I also can confirm it doesn’t impact performance. 2.73 0-60 so if anything it might help.
I have it and few others so I can confirm it works perfectly. Renntech is the US dealer for ASR so the price they charge is ridiculous. I got mine from a European vendor for half the Renntech price. If you look at the RENNtech one it is a ASR module with a sticker.
I wondered if it would be worth it since my car is already loud but I love it. Great having valves open all the time. I also can confirm it doesn’t impact performance. 2.73 0-60 so if anything it might help.
much appreciated. already ordered and received. these guys put a lollipop in the box... lol
when you do the install, is there any special trick?
like
turn the car off with the flaps open then get the key out of range?
For EVM install another member wrote this, I used his guide it was pretty simple. Make sure flaps are in the closed position and turn car off. “There are two access doors on the rearward right side of the trunk. The rubber plug is behind the one behind the right rear tail light. You do not need to take apart any of the trunk lining. Just open the compartment door and the plug is towards the bottom. You will need to push the plug out, rather than pull it out towards the trunk compartment because of the way it is installed. Basically, the thicker portion of the flange is on the outside which makes it easier to push the plug out. I let it fall down between the body and bumper skin and retrieved it next to the heat shield by the muffler. Cut an "X" in the center to route the wires though. I then put the plug back in from inside the trunk (the plug now is installed from the other direction). Then you route the wires (short one to the right muffler and long one to the left muffler (zip tie wires away from the heat shield and from sharp edges). The exhaust valve plugs have a white/gray tab that needs to be pulled back to release the connector. I used a small flat head to slide it back to unlock the connector.” Attached is a picture of how my wires are running though the plug. You can also just zip tie the box against the plastic bracket to it doesn’t flop all over.
Sorry that was an awful picture I took, the plastic plug that you will be passing the wires through is where you will cut the X. I tired to magnify the picture a little. Basically the box will be mounted in the trunk and it’s just the wires running to the two valves.
I recently installed the ASR module and I was able to slide the connector through the rubber grommet without cutting it. Take off the tape on the backside of the grommet so you can slide the grommet back and forth, stick a screwdriver through the hole and stretch sideways, then slide the connector for the box through the grommet (starting from the outside of the grommet. Took me 2 min, be careful to not rip the grommet when you are pulling, it's pretty thick so that should be tough.
It does make a nice improvement to daily driving noise without the need for a heavy foot. I just ordered cat-less downpipes, so I may be getting rid of mine depending on how loud it is. PM me if you have interest.
I recently installed the ASR module and I was able to slide the connector through the rubber grommet without cutting it. Take off the tape on the backside of the grommet so you can slide the grommet back and forth, stick a screwdriver through the hole and stretch sideways, then slide the connector for the box through the grommet (starting from the outside of the grommet. Took me 2 min, be careful to not rip the grommet when you are pulling, it's pretty thick so that should be tough.
It does make a nice improvement to daily driving noise without the need for a heavy foot. I just ordered cat-less downpipes, so I may be getting rid of mine depending on how loud it is. PM me if you have interest.
can you tell me exactly what your install process is like? meaning
what local business near me google and what do i ask them? exhaust shop and “cut into my stock exhaust to install these downpipes without dropping the tranny”?
i am very nervous to take this car for catless downpipe install to an exhaust shop that has never seen this m177 setup before
I'll post up when I am finished. Waiting on an O2 Sensor Socket to continue. Should have it today and will make the cut after.
honestly, is it confirmed that you 100% need to cut into the stock pipes without dropping the tranny? i feel like i never got a straight answer on that
what are you estimating labor wise? i think i asked before and the answer was 5 hours?
are you gonna be doing the install yourself? impressive if so
Yes, doing it myself. I suspect it will take a total of 5-6 hours. I am taking my time though and I don't have a lift, so I am laying down under the car. You have to cut the pipes, 100%.
Yes, doing it myself. I suspect it will take a total of 5-6 hours. I am taking my time though and I don't have a lift, so I am laying down under the car. You have to cut the pipes, 100%.
what state are you in and what tools do you need? if your install goes well maybe you’re taking a trip to south florida soon
Socket wrench, breaker bar, sockets, socket extensions
Sawzall with 12" metal cutting blades
Instructions:
Remove the engine cover, battery cover and disconnect the battery.
Lift the ECU out of the mounts, it just pops out easily to move to the side for access to #3.
Remove upper heat shield over the turbos (6 bolts) on the outside.
Remove front skid plate (8 bolts) and mid skid plate (6 bolts) under the car.
Using an O2 sensor Socket, remove the top 4 O2 sensors and set aside.
Remove 4 downpipe mount bolts in the middle of the turbos that face towards the back of the car.
Remove 2 bolts holding the bracket underneath the downpipe mounts.
Remove 4 bolts with long socket extension holding the main bracket on top of the transmission.
Under the car, remove the bolts for the lower mounts.
Remove the clamps on the downpipes connecting to the turbos and remove the clamps on downpipes under the car.
Break the downpipes free and drop them as low as they can go out of the bottom of the car.
Using a sawzall with a 12" metal blade, cut the pipes in front of the rear cat. You will have to move the downpipes around a bit to get an angle to get the blade up. Trial and error finding the right angle.
After cut, pull the bottom portions out from under the car and the top portions from the top. Remove the passenger side downpipe from the top first. The driver's downpipe takes a bit of a strange angle and a little force to pull out.
All done!
Overall, if I were to do it straight, I think removal took me about 4-5 hours. That being said, I didn't have much guidance and I was doing it all with a jack in the garage. It would be much easier on a lift.
Socket wrench, breaker bar, sockets, socket extensions
Sawzall with 12" metal cutting blades
Instructions:
Remove the engine cover, battery cover and disconnect the battery.
Lift the ECU out of the mounts, it just pops out easily to move to the side for access to #3.
Remove upper heat shield over the turbos (6 bolts) on the outside.
Remove front skid plate (8 bolts) and mid skid plate (6 bolts) under the car.
Using an O2 sensor Socket, remove the top 4 O2 sensors and set aside.
Remove 4 downpipe mount bolts in the middle of the turbos that face towards the back of the car.
Remove 2 bolts holding the bracket underneath the downpipe mounts.
Remove 4 bolts with long socket extension holding the main bracket on top of the transmission.
Under the car, remove the bolts for the lower mounts.
Remove the clamps on the downpipes connecting to the turbos and remove the clamps on downpipes under the car.
Break the downpipes free and drop them as low as they can go out of the bottom of the car.
Using a sawzall with a 12" metal blade, cut the pipes in front of the rear cat. You will have to move the downpipes around a bit to get an angle to get the blade up. Trial and error finding the right angle.
After cut, pull the bottom portions out from under the car and the top portions from the top. Remove the passenger side downpipe from the top first. The driver's downpipe takes a bit of a strange angle and a little force to pull out.
All done!
Overall, if I were to do it straight, I think removal took me about 4-5 hours. That being said, I didn't have much guidance and I was doing it all with a jack in the garage. It would be much easier on a lift.
very nice writeup. should be stickied. what are the install instructions like?
I recently installed the ASR module and I was able to slide the connector through the rubber grommet without cutting it. Take off the tape on the backside of the grommet so you can slide the grommet back and forth, stick a screwdriver through the hole and stretch sideways, then slide the connector for the box through the grommet (starting from the outside of the grommet. Took me 2 min, be careful to not rip the grommet when you are pulling, it's pretty thick so that should be tough.
It does make a nice improvement to daily driving noise without the need for a heavy foot. I just ordered cat-less downpipes, so I may be getting rid of mine depending on how loud it is. PM me if you have interest.
i think we crossed wires. you are discussing ASR module. i was looking for AWE Tuning Electronic Valve Simulator install guide
i think we crossed wires. you are discussing ASR module. i was looking for AWE Tuning Electronic Valve Simulator install guide
Oh, got it. Pull the truck liner out, push the connector back through the grommet, route the cables down to the exhaust, unplug the cables, plug new ones in. Easy peasy. Took me 45 min.
06-04-2020, 01:25 AM
, and really an art piece that no one will ever see lol. But the sound with Keller-performance high flow cat Downpipes and then Renntech EMV is amazing. Akrapovic uses a X pipe instead of the H pipe in the stock exhaust so it does slightly change the sound, but unfortunately I have a rattle in my X pipe when its in comfort mode. That being said I do love the sound, with out the downpipes its a tad quieter at lower speeds but when you are in S+ its amazing. As for the the valves closed for back pressure, I really do not know. I have mine set to open all the time and I really haven't felt any loss. Wish I had more input regarding that. There`s only a few companies that I can think of that offer a exhaust; Akrapovic $$$$$, Meisterschaft $$$$, AWE $$$, **Armytrix I really do not know about so I cannot say.
