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No they told me they had one I didn't bother going to see. They also had a loaded Blue Magno wagon but it was sold already. They are cranking out the cars in Mississauga seems they got all the good specs
You're a better man than I for certain. Driving a 210,000 CAD vehicle with the salt, sand, etc on winter roads, to me, is incredible. Add to the road conditions those 4-wheel crazies who drive recklessly in the frozen stuff and you have all of the ingredients of a disaster waiting to happen. Of course, you have CCB'S and they'll get destroyed by the sand and debris for certain. Good luck with the winter driving .
CCB's are made for the winter - they don't rust! I've experienced only great things with them even cold. They can squeak if not used hard for a while but nothing a few quick stops doesn't fix. As for the car, my 8yr 185,000 km E63 DD has no rust anywhere even underneath, suspension, frame, etc. it's perfect and I only started doing Krown year 6. I'm not a washing/detailing freak either, I usually just go through a car wash once or twice all winter when I can't tell what kind of car it is anymore.
Paints and coatings and protection and all that has come such a long way from the 90s and before. Those older metals primers and paints really sucked. Cars fall apart just trying to keep them clean
I'm running CCB rotors I got takeoffs they had low miles when I got them, along with brand new calipers from the dealer. I even used the takeoff pads they still have plenty left according to my most recent dealer service a couple weeks ago. We haven't taken the rotors apart to weigh them, because the wear dots still show plenty of life so no need to until they start showing a different pattern.
2024 AMG EQE SUV , 2021 E63S Wagon - gone, 2018 E63S Sedan - gone
Originally Posted by ocdbroker
Very impressive 115k miles. In my experience, pedal feel and cleanliness alone worth price of entry.
I have read recommendations about changing the pads on the CCB's at regular intervals even when they are not substantially worn. What is your experience of that advice?
I have read recommendations about changing the pads on the CCB's at regular intervals even when they are not substantially worn. What is your experience of that advice?
I don't believe it but won't put my money where my mouth is. I agree with the economics of changing at 50% wear "just in case" not because of mechanical proof or my own experience. I think it is unnecessary BUT the relative cost of pads vs. rotors is a huge spread so I'm going to follow what I think is a myth because it's too expensive to be wrong, and all the internet flame wars on the subject neither side has given any real measured proof. It's all spouting theories with the usual keyboard jockey name calling.
With all my km's and using original CCB rotors from 2012 and the used "thick pads" they come with, unknown year of pads, at my service in April 2023:
Front Pads measured 7mm light comes on 2-3mm
Rear Pads measured 7mm light comes on 2-3mm
Google tells me new pads are 12mm so I'm probably another year or more before being at the 50% wear change interval the "internet experts" tell me is required for longer life.
Coming from a mechanical engineering background changing pads at 50% doesn't make any sense to me unless a) the last 50% pad material is different then the first 50% b) the heat does different things to pads that are only 50% thick. I think more likely people forget, run to the sensor, keep going, and wreck their rotors that way.
I will follow the myth because a thousand bucks worth of pads is so much cheaper then $30k rotors if I'm wrong for something I don't yet understand.
IMHO a brake expert needs to chime in and debunk this old wives tale but I am not that expert so I will not be riding the pads all the way down to 2mm.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by I.T. Guy
CCB's are made for the winter - they don't rust! I've experienced only great things with them even cold. They can squeak if not used hard for a while but nothing a few quick stops doesn't fix. As for the car, my 8yr 185,000 km E63 DD has no rust anywhere even underneath, suspension, frame, etc. it's perfect and I only started doing Krown year 6. I'm not a washing/detailing freak either, I usually just go through a car wash once or twice all winter when I can't tell what kind of car it is anymore.
Paints and coatings and protection and all that has come such a long way from the 90s and before. Those older metals primers and paints really sucked. Cars fall apart just trying to keep them clean
Honestly, even the steel brakes squeak if not constantly do rapid deceleration to bed-in or to basically put pad material on the rotors, I wouldn't say squeaking being that big of a con on CCB because of that.
That got me curious, If go through car wash are you using automatic, if so touchless or soft cloth?
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by I.T. Guy
edited
Kilometers
I'm running CCB rotors I got takeoffs they had low miles when I got them, along with brand new calipers from the dealer. I even used the takeoff pads they still have plenty left according to my most recent dealer service a couple weeks ago. We haven't taken the rotors apart to weigh them, because the wear dots still show plenty of life so no need to until they start showing a different pattern.
CCB's rock. I will never go back.
That is very nice happy to hear about such positive experience of CCBs.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by I.T. Guy
I don't believe it but won't put my money where my mouth is. I agree with the economics of changing at 50% wear "just in case" not because of mechanical proof or my own experience. I think it is unnecessary BUT the relative cost of pads vs. rotors is a huge spread so I'm going to follow what I think is a myth because it's too expensive to be wrong, and all the internet flame wars on the subject neither side has given any real measured proof. It's all spouting theories with the usual keyboard jockey name calling.
With all my km's and using original CCB rotors from 2012 and the used "thick pads" they come with, unknown year of pads, at my service in April 2023:
Front Pads measured 7mm light comes on 2-3mm
Rear Pads measured 7mm light comes on 2-3mm
Google tells me new pads are 12mm so I'm probably another year or more before being at the 50% wear change interval the "internet experts" tell me is required for longer life.
Coming from a mechanical engineering background changing pads at 50% doesn't make any sense to me unless a) the last 50% pad material is different then the first 50% b) the heat does different things to pads that are only 50% thick. I think more likely people forget, run to the sensor, keep going, and wreck their rotors that way.
I will follow the myth because a thousand bucks worth of pads is so much cheaper then $30k rotors if I'm wrong for something I don't yet understand.
IMHO a brake expert needs to chime in and debunk this old wives tale but I am not that expert so I will not be riding the pads all the way down to 2mm.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by I.T. Guy
It’s done PPF and tints. Tomorrows the day!!
@I.T. Guy Very nice! Looking forward to hearing about your delivery and the smiles you have with new wagon!
Congrats again after going through all that back and forth with your order, from being told not getting wagons to Canada and getting persuaded to get an E 63 S Sedan then being told Canada are getting wagons then debating (deleting and adding and modifying) options and losing sleep because you think you might regret choosing an option to the utter disappointment of claims that Canada won't be getting an E 63 S Wagon for 2023. That is not all, to not being able to order with CCBs and risk missing out on final production timeframe to already ended production and no longer getting it to E 63 S Wagons showing up in Canada despite previous claims by MB or someone. Here is the good part... to a helpful forum member like bobblehead helping you spot the wagon of your dream to... wait for it. FINALLY! Taking delivery!
It was a bumpy ride for sure but you finally made it to your destination and that is such a wonderful thing, congrats again and enjoy in good health!
Long story - I wanted STEK because of it's hydro-whatever properties and had a full matte wrap lined up for the Magno car coming mid/end of June. Then you posted this car I bought it and I didn't want to wait until end of June for a PPF and that shop couldn't get me in early. I asked the dealer if they offer PPF they said "Yes we can have it done before delivery" and that clinched it. The dealer said they use XPEL bulk custom everything tucked. I really wasn't too beat up about which brand. The internets tell me STEK might be more clear/better film/pre treated with ceramic/hydro whatever but for me it was about the instant easy great service. The shop looked pro, so I'm super happy. I didn't dicker the dealer price either, I'm sure their cut made it a bit more money but they removed all hassle which is worth paying for.
the STEK dynoshield film was on my 911. It does have superior hydrophobic and clarity properties over the Xpel. But this STEK brand is getting very difficult to find nowadays due to some sort of distribution issue with the regional wholesale as I was told.
Long story - I wanted STEK because of it's hydro-whatever properties and had a full matte wrap lined up for the Magno car coming mid/end of June. Then you posted this car I bought it and I didn't want to wait until end of June for a PPF and that shop couldn't get me in early. I asked the dealer if they offer PPF they said "Yes we can have it done before delivery" and that clinched it. The dealer said they use XPEL bulk custom everything tucked. I really wasn't too beat up about which brand. The internets tell me STEK might be more clear/better film/pre treated with ceramic/hydro whatever but for me it was about the instant easy great service. The shop looked pro, so I'm super happy. I didn't dicker the dealer price either, I'm sure their cut made it a bit more money but they removed all hassle which is worth paying for.
Protecting your investment prior to taking delivery seems like the way to go, I think you did well.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by bobblehead
the STEK dynoshield film was on my 911. It does have superior hydrophobic and clarity properties over the Xpel. But this STEK brand is getting very difficult to find nowadays due to some sort of distribution issue with the regional wholesale as I was told.
05-29-2023, 10:36 AM
