W205 C43 - Front end camber for track performance
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 474
Likes: 36
From: Central Ohio
2017 C43, 1966 230SL, 2006 Jeep Rubicon
W205 C43 - Front end camber for track performance
Hi. My C43 is AWD. I do HPDE events a few times per year and I'm looking for increased front end negative camber.
Kmac sells lower control arm bushings that increase negative camber by a few degrees. The stock MB bushings are accentric and can add a half of a degree.
Question: If the upper control arm and ball joint stays stationary, and the drive shaft stays stationary, then how can a bushing push the control arm (and thereby the lower part of the steering knuckle) outward?
In my mind, an analogy would be if one person was holding the top of a broom handle with one hand, the middle with the other hand, and someone else tried to push out on the bottom of the handle. There's no fulcrum or pivot point for adjustment.
Maybe I'm thinking of it all wrong? How does this all work?
Kmac sells lower control arm bushings that increase negative camber by a few degrees. The stock MB bushings are accentric and can add a half of a degree.
Question: If the upper control arm and ball joint stays stationary, and the drive shaft stays stationary, then how can a bushing push the control arm (and thereby the lower part of the steering knuckle) outward?
In my mind, an analogy would be if one person was holding the top of a broom handle with one hand, the middle with the other hand, and someone else tried to push out on the bottom of the handle. There's no fulcrum or pivot point for adjustment.
Maybe I'm thinking of it all wrong? How does this all work?
Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 149
Likes: 8
From: Redmond, WA
718 BGTS, ‘20 C63 Coupe
I would also like to know more about the KMac bushings. Here’s what a race shop owner near me had to say:
”I just have installed and aligned on two cars and not only to the teeth basically damage the subframe but they wear out pretty much immediately.
Also they were fairly easy to adjust but with a little movement the alignment seems to change.
Two of my customers insisted on using them but I probably wouldn’t do it again.
Is there a better option for that platform?
I do mostly Audi/Porsche so I don’t know what’s available for Benz.”
”I just have installed and aligned on two cars and not only to the teeth basically damage the subframe but they wear out pretty much immediately.
Also they were fairly easy to adjust but with a little movement the alignment seems to change.
Two of my customers insisted on using them but I probably wouldn’t do it again.
Is there a better option for that platform?
I do mostly Audi/Porsche so I don’t know what’s available for Benz.”
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 474
Likes: 36
From: Central Ohio
2017 C43, 1966 230SL, 2006 Jeep Rubicon
I'd rather this thread stay on topic of suspension geometry & design instead of a debate about the quality of specific products. HOW the product is SUPPOSED to modify the suspension alignment is my question. Not does it do the job well.
If there were no drive shaft in the middle, there would only be upper and lower components, and moving the lower arms out makes sense. How is it accomplished with a drive shaft in the middle of everything??? I guess the same question could be asked about upper control arms with adjustable ball joints.
Thanks
If there were no drive shaft in the middle, there would only be upper and lower components, and moving the lower arms out makes sense. How is it accomplished with a drive shaft in the middle of everything??? I guess the same question could be asked about upper control arms with adjustable ball joints.
Thanks
Last edited by GermanCarShow; Aug 1, 2025 at 06:22 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 784
Likes: 249
From: USA
With a driveshaft in the mix, aftermarket arms use offset bushings, adjustable heims, or redesigned mounting points to push the lower arm outward without interfering. Same idea for upper arms adjustable ball joints or pivots change angles while clearing obstacles. The geometry changes, but the parts are designed to work around the driveshaft.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 474
Likes: 36
From: Central Ohio
2017 C43, 1966 230SL, 2006 Jeep Rubicon
I still don't get it. If there are 3 connections to the steering knuckle (proper term?), and the top one is fixed (upper control arm) and the middle one is fixed (drive shaft), then how can aftermarket LCA bushings, or even MB stock accentric LCA bushings, move the bottom of the knuckle out for increased negative camber?
I've been talking to myself a lot in this other thread, trying to figure this out. Only that debatable vendor replied, no forum members.
But, I have posted some pics and videos in that thread that might help. If you see that, maybe you'll understand why I'm so confused??
https://mbworld.org/forums/c450-c43-amg/914819-accentric-control-arm-bolts-get-slight-more-camber.html
I've been talking to myself a lot in this other thread, trying to figure this out. Only that debatable vendor replied, no forum members.
But, I have posted some pics and videos in that thread that might help. If you see that, maybe you'll understand why I'm so confused??https://mbworld.org/forums/c450-c43-amg/914819-accentric-control-arm-bolts-get-slight-more-camber.html
Last edited by GermanCarShow; Aug 1, 2025 at 11:16 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 3,243
Likes: 933
From: New Orleans Area
2015 E400 Sedan
Axle shafts should have SLIP joint so it can move in and out as the suspension cycles up and down.
Normally it is at end in the differential... Ths plines are long and their is room inside for it to slide in and out as needed for suspension to go up and down.
With that in mind it has room for an alignment.
Same thing in rear
Normally it is at end in the differential... Ths plines are long and their is room inside for it to slide in and out as needed for suspension to go up and down.
With that in mind it has room for an alignment.
Same thing in rear
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 474
Likes: 36
From: Central Ohio
2017 C43, 1966 230SL, 2006 Jeep Rubicon
@ygmn Hi. I'm familiar with slip yoke from drive shaft modifications with Jeep lifts, I had no idea there was one inside the boots where the drive shafts connect to the wheels/steering knuckles. That answers everything!! Thanks.
Last edited by GermanCarShow; Aug 3, 2025 at 06:15 PM.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 474
Likes: 36
From: Central Ohio
2017 C43, 1966 230SL, 2006 Jeep Rubicon
Below are videos I made last month. It was the first time I got under my car to look specifically at suspension, so you'll notice I'm figuring things out in real-time which makes for not a good video - sorry. But, since you guys resolved my drive shaft dilemma for me, I thought you might be able to explain this.
- The first, longer control arm mounts towards the front of the subframe attaches to the middle of the steering knuckle.
- The second, shorter control arm, where the accentric bushing goes, attaches to the rear of the steering knuckle.
- The tie rod attaches to the front of the steering knuckle.
If I push out the short control arm only, that will put tension on the other two steering knuckle connections. If the tie rod is also adjusted, that puts tension on the central steering knuckle connection. Don't I need an accentric bushing for both control arms?
- The first, longer control arm mounts towards the front of the subframe attaches to the middle of the steering knuckle.
- The second, shorter control arm, where the accentric bushing goes, attaches to the rear of the steering knuckle.
- The tie rod attaches to the front of the steering knuckle.
If I push out the short control arm only, that will put tension on the other two steering knuckle connections. If the tie rod is also adjusted, that puts tension on the central steering knuckle connection. Don't I need an accentric bushing for both control arms?
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
C43
I would also like to know more about the KMac bushings. Here’s what a race shop owner near me had to say:
”I just have installed and aligned on two cars and not only to the teeth basically damage the subframe but they wear out pretty much immediately.
Also they were fairly easy to adjust but with a little movement the alignment seems to change.
Two of my customers insisted on using them but I probably wouldn’t do it again.
Is there a better option for that platform?
I do mostly Audi/Porsche so I don’t know what’s available for Benz.”
”I just have installed and aligned on two cars and not only to the teeth basically damage the subframe but they wear out pretty much immediately.
Also they were fairly easy to adjust but with a little movement the alignment seems to change.
Two of my customers insisted on using them but I probably wouldn’t do it again.
Is there a better option for that platform?
I do mostly Audi/Porsche so I don’t know what’s available for Benz.”
