I did my first oil change on my C350 so I wanted to post some pictures here. There are several good DIY W203 Oil threads here but nothing specific for the C350. Actually there is very little different from the C230 and C280, just little stuff. I am amazed how easy it is to change the oil on the M272 3.5L. It was the easiest, quickest DIY change I have ever done. Especially because I read about using an oil extractor here and got one online. These are great products and simple to use. Combined with the easy location of the oil filter, it is super simple. This is a no-brainer.

All you'll need is the oil extractor (I chose the Pela, Ebay for $59). You'll also need an oil filter. I picked the K&N. A 1/2" socket and oil filter cup-style wrench. And then some oil. I used 7 quarts of Mobil One 0-W40. It takes 10 to 15 minutes max and you don't even have to get under the car once. And the Pela has a nifty pour spout that makes it easy and clean to pour off the old oil into the used jugs. Viola!

[EDIT] Some additional information brought up from the thread below. The 3.5L motor's engine oil capacity is 8.5 quarts by the book and 8.0 quarts is what you should expect to get out (and replace) in an oil/filter change. K&N PN# used here is HP-7004. It comes with it's own replacement rubber "O" rings and instructions for proper installation which should be followed. Basically you twist it up until you cover (hide) 2 of the 3 small black lines on the cotton. It can be hard to twist on. Also, the Pela oil extractor I used is the 650 model. Capacity is about 6.9 quarts although it will hold 7 right to the top. You will have to pause and pour off a quart and then restart the suction to get 8 quarts out. I didn't do that, I just took out 7 and replaced 7 but you should go for all 8. It might take 10 minutes to suction out that much.

To start just pop off the front half of the plastic engine cover. The oil filter is located up front; it's the black circle on the right-center-front.


You should loosen the oil filter with the cup wrench before you start the extractor. That will let the filter drain completely and let the oil flow more freely.


Now pull out the dipstick (the yellow ring at the back) and push the larger oil extractor tube (red) down into the dipstick hole until it stops (hits the bottom). You'll know when it bottoms out.



Then pump the oil extractor handle a few times and stop pumping. The built up suction does the rest. You might have to pump it a few times as the suction decreases but don't force it.



Then twist out the old filter and twist on a new filter. Replace the three black rubber "O" rings as you go.



Then just pour the same amount that came out (I got 7 out and 7 in exactly) back in through the filler cap on the front left side. Use the good stuff. You are done.

 

Congrats. You'll now be added to the DIY sticky at the top! Great job.

Drex

 

Wow that looks easy. Good job.

 

Appreciate your sharing. I was just looking for some information about this, and this showed up in time. Well done!

BTW, where can we buy that three black rubber "O" rings? or it comes with the new oil filter u bought? Thanks!

 

what C350 engine call?

M### ??

 

Your Kompressor motor is a little different from what you see here but there are some great DIY threads that highlight the difference around. The "O" rings usually come with the oil filter replacement you buy. MANN and others. I went with the K&N PN#: HP-7004, bought it online from the K&N website, and it came with the new rubber "O" rings.Hmmm, not sure about this one. But what I have read is that the line of motors in the current C-Class is drawn from the basic M272 configuration. That's just Mercedes' way of designating the configuration. It was first introduced in '04 from the older M112 V6. It comes in 3 forms in the C-Class: E25 (2.5L NA in the C230), E30 (3.0L NA in the C280), and E35 (3.5L NA in the C350). It is also used in the CLK, E and SLK cars.

 

nice DIY

 

Great post Only thing is, you should have gotten 8.5 quarts out. Did you loosen the oil filter cap before extracting?

 

Ditto to the previous poster - you need to add the amount of oil the owners manual says. By only replacing what you sucked out you haven't replaced any oil consumed since the last oil change and what came out with the filter.

Otherwise a great post.

My complaint is my '05 C320 has no dipstick - GRRRR. My '07 E350 has a dipstick and my "Topsider" works great too.

Lou

 

M272.

 

Nice write-up.

The MB filter has circumferential lines that must be hidden, to ensure the filter is fully bottomed onto the housing. Does the K&N include those guide marks?

 

nice writeup!
is the procedure the same for C240/C320? cuz we don't have dipsticks...

 

Yes, the K&N HP-7004 has the same black marks/lines printed on the cotton filter. The little instruction piece of paper shows how to twist the new cotton filter on correctly. Their markings are three little lines and to correctly install it you have to twist it up until two of the three are covered.Agreed that I should have gotten more oil out. I have read elsewhere that you should expect to get about 8.0 quarts out of the 3.5L although it's capacity is 8.5. I did the change with the engine warm (not hot) and I did loosen the oil filter at the beginning to let it empty and flow more freely to the bottom of the oil pan. But I could only get out 7 quarts in the time I allotted. ADD is my excuse and I'm sticking with that. The oil extractor tube is pretty stiff and will not turn once it is down in the block. If I could (and I tried) I would have pushed it more to get it to a lower part of the oil pan. If I left it in there longer I would have gotten more (it was still coming in slowly when I stopped it, the Pela has a nifty little pressure release button to stop the suction) but I cut it off at 7 quarts because it had been sucking for a while and the extractor was filling right up to the top. This was just an "interim" change for me and at 20K I will tip off a quart midway and try to get that last quart out.

 

I got it, and thanks for your reply. I got one more question, where are we supposed to dispose the used oils? Thanks again

 

Thanks for confirming that the K&N includes the installation guide marks, like the MB fleece filter.


The debate on drain versus pump continues. It would be interesting if the benefits of one over the other would be satisfied by conducting a test.

 

Here or any Jiffy Lube.

 

As far as the oil change is concerned, I'm looking at the pics, and the dipstick tube is exactly where my tranny tube is...
hmmmmmmm. That would not be good.

Most places in the bay area, you can call the waste company and get jugs, and they'll pick it up curbside! Call you local waste company, ask for some jugs. They'll drop 'em off for you.
Here, they are 8 quarts, so thats mighty handy.
I use the drill powered pump, so it pumps directly to the recycle container.
No mess. No pouring from one to another container.

Otherwise, try Kragens. They'll take it at some stores.

 

Thanks for the tip, I was unaware of the ongoing debate. Would make a nice little test though! I was an "oil drain plug guy" for many years. But now that I am old and creaky I think I am a convert to extraction. I would bet that the drain plug method gets out the more (the most) used oil. Extraction is a lazy thing for me. And I'm not all fired up to achieve perfection, getting the majority out and replacing it is usually enough to make this old geezer happy. You'all youngsters are welcome to break out the ramps and crawl around under there. Me? I think I'll get sucked.

 

This is almost exactly where my tranny dipstick hole is.....
Hmmmmmm......

 

I think you can get most of it.
I sucked 1st, then let sit, did it again, and once more after pulling the filter.
I feel pretty certain I got most of it.
I was already low on oil at the time I changed it, so I only pulled about 5 quarts. And put 7 in. (M111) Total capacity is 7.5, so I feel confident I got most of it. Can't get a pan under my car anyway without jacking it up, and then it wouldn't be level, so this is the best way.

 

It may actually be a bit model dependent but what I've seen is that those who only accept draining, can get a quart of oil after siphoning. I'm siphoning the oil (so I accept if you claim me being biased) and I have tried draining after siphoning, and didn't get a drop.

Of course you have to allow the oil to fall to the dipstick area, it takes a while, not really longer than when draining though.

I see most of the multipurpose siphoning tools have a tube that goes down to the oil pan from the dipstick tube. My own device has a big tube that attaches to the top of the dipstick tube. Hot oil takes about 10 seconds to siphon, for the 95% of it, then I allow another minute or two for the last drops. If I then try a small tube that goes to the bottom of the oil pan, I don't get practically any more oil. The dipstick tube really is designed for siphoning.

I've mentioned it before but the official MB workshop information covers both methods, so MB considers both acceptable. I agree that the debate goes on but I don't see any reason for a debate really.

 

lol - his "bad streak" is one race that was an absolute mess because of rain..... i'm pretty certain he'll be back on the podium very soon

 

Oh man, putting engine oil in your tranny--and way overfilling it too--would be bad. Luckily I can use the same synthetic in my motorcycle's crank case, transmission and chain case!

 

Hi Drop-a-Daimler and C23O Sport Coup,

Thanks for all your information about oil disposal. It's very helpful, and I think I know what to do now.

 

Yup Kragens take it for free (i did a transmission fluid change on the wifes honda accord last week) they just ask you to pour it out into their big metal storage container yourself which I though was fair enough (in the UK i've been charged a few pounds for them to dispose of old oil).

Btw dont you have to remove the plastic engine cover that houses the air filters to get to the transmission dipstick hole?

I've got an 02 C240 and just a dipstick cover for the oil tube (no actual dipstick) but i'm guessing you dont necessarily need the dipstick as the level can be measured via the cluster, rite? Or is it best to get the dipstick?