CL 500 Suspension Problems
#1
CL 500 Suspension Problems
Hi, my 2002 CL 500 has a humming vibrating noise with spreads through out the chasis but I can feel it stronly through the floor. After a few months this has gotten worse and the ABC lights up and doesnt go off, my dealer says its the Suspension Valve located in the bottom of the suspension accumulator. Could someone please help me out with part number or any info on this. Thanks!
#2
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CL500 216
You have 2 valves under the front wheel arch cover, the one at the top is under the ball tank and is under pressure all the time. 420 in the link. The other one 530 is in the return line
it is the 420 that gives most problems.
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp...SGR=235&SGN=03
it is the 420 that gives most problems.
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp...SGR=235&SGN=03
#4
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E90 N54 & W251
Hi, my 2002 CL 500 has a humming vibrating noise with spreads through out the chasis but I can feel it stronly through the floor. After a few months this has gotten worse and the ABC lights up and doesnt go off, my dealer says its the Suspension Valve located in the bottom of the suspension accumulator. Could someone please help me out with part number or any info on this. Thanks!
Welcome to the board.
I'm a little still unclear as to what exactly your symptoms are and what your dealer recommended. Does your suspension drop unevenly (while running or after a few days)? Can you raise and lower the vehicle? Does everything work fine and you just have an ABC warning in your dash?
The only thing that closely describes "Suspension Valve located in the bottom of the suspension accumulator" is the pressure supply valve unit which is attached to the pulsation damper. The hydraulic fluid is pumped from the tandem pump (ABC & PS pump in one) to the pulsation damper and then by means of the pressure supply valve unit, the fluid is distrubuted to the front and rear axle valve blocks and then to their corresponding struts. Excess fluid from the pressure supply valve unit is returned to the reservoir after passing through an oil cooler and then the process starts all over again. The pulsation damper and pressure supply valve is located passenger side near the foot well and is accessible from under the vehicle after removing the rear engine cover. This is not your typical DIY task and I would not recommend you do this yourself if you're not familiar with the way ABC works. Any mistake you make will cost you even more money down the line.
Reference these diagrams to help you get a visual of what I'm talking about (items 52a, 52). Go to post 12:
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...rol-rodeo.html
Good luck
Last edited by ~CL500~; 11-22-2008 at 07:12 PM.
#5
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CL500 216
As CL500 above with his good write up,, this valve in question is under pressure from the weight of the car,, to change it the car must be lifted and all 4 wheels hanging down, it is not something to do yourself as you need STAR to get the air out of the system and again to bleed it the wheels must all be hanging down.
I do not recommend that you even try,, the valve in the return line came loose on my car, and there was no way to get the air out without doing the above..
Truthfully if the car stays up and you have no leaks, you have no panic. My ABC warning triggers sometimes and always has done. turning off and on always solves it for weeks on end. The other thing that can so it is a fault in either of the two front SAM units as all of the valves are wired to them
I do not recommend that you even try,, the valve in the return line came loose on my car, and there was no way to get the air out without doing the above..
Truthfully if the car stays up and you have no leaks, you have no panic. My ABC warning triggers sometimes and always has done. turning off and on always solves it for weeks on end. The other thing that can so it is a fault in either of the two front SAM units as all of the valves are wired to them
#7
Let me say that the humming noise has been there for at least 8 months but has gotten worse and worse. Ocassionaly I got the red ABC light, but my car still manages to lift and lower with the suspension. But the sound has gotten too bad to the point where it sounds BAD.
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#9
My 2001 CL-500 recently have ABC control failure shown on the LCD screen. I took it to the dealer. They found out following items need to be fixed:
1. Both Front Control arms need to be removed and new bushings need to be replaced.
2. Transmission support/mount need to replaced.
3. Two engine supports/mounts need to replaced.
4. Accumulator (suspension) need to be replaced.
5. Rear Main Seal (oil leak at rear of Engine)
6. Subframe been damaged need to replace a new one.
After seeing the ABC failure warning, I only drive around 20 miles to take this car to dealer. I bought this car 17 months ago and only drive 17000 miles. My total mileage is only 75419 miles. My extended warranty will cover item 1 thru 5, but will not the item 6 which will cost me more than $2500.
Anyone has the subframe damage for this model before?
1. Both Front Control arms need to be removed and new bushings need to be replaced.
2. Transmission support/mount need to replaced.
3. Two engine supports/mounts need to replaced.
4. Accumulator (suspension) need to be replaced.
5. Rear Main Seal (oil leak at rear of Engine)
6. Subframe been damaged need to replace a new one.
After seeing the ABC failure warning, I only drive around 20 miles to take this car to dealer. I bought this car 17 months ago and only drive 17000 miles. My total mileage is only 75419 miles. My extended warranty will cover item 1 thru 5, but will not the item 6 which will cost me more than $2500.
Anyone has the subframe damage for this model before?
#10
My 2001 CL-500 recently have ABC control failure shown on the LCD screen. I took it to the dealer. They found out following items need to be fixed:
1. Both Front Control arms need to be removed and new bushings need to be replaced.
2. Transmission support/mount need to replaced.
3. Two engine supports/mounts need to replaced.
4. Accumulator (suspension) need to be replaced.
5. Rear Main Seal (oil leak at rear of Engine)
6. Subframe been damaged need to replace a new one.
After seeing the ABC failure warning, I only drive around 20 miles to take this car to dealer. I bought this car 17 months ago and only drive 17000 miles. My total mileage is only 75419 miles. My extended warranty will cover item 1 thru 5, but will not the item 6 which will cost me more than $2500.
Anyone has the subframe damage for this model before?
1. Both Front Control arms need to be removed and new bushings need to be replaced.
2. Transmission support/mount need to replaced.
3. Two engine supports/mounts need to replaced.
4. Accumulator (suspension) need to be replaced.
5. Rear Main Seal (oil leak at rear of Engine)
6. Subframe been damaged need to replace a new one.
After seeing the ABC failure warning, I only drive around 20 miles to take this car to dealer. I bought this car 17 months ago and only drive 17000 miles. My total mileage is only 75419 miles. My extended warranty will cover item 1 thru 5, but will not the item 6 which will cost me more than $2500.
Anyone has the subframe damage for this model before?
#11
have you seen the subframe and what "damage" there is? Im betting its just scraped a little if the car went too low... have them show it to you.
if it drives fine, there are no cracks or bends, etc your subframe is probably fine and you will be fine just getting the warranty items fixed
if it drives fine, there are no cracks or bends, etc your subframe is probably fine and you will be fine just getting the warranty items fixed
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2002 CL500 W215
I think I have the same problem, I figured it was my catalytic going bad, I took it to the dealer and the said my engine mounts needed to be replaced, I did....and the humming/vibrate is still there. I would like some info from anybody with this problem like yourself so I can have some knowledge so I dont get another useless repair.
Thanks
Alex
Thanks
Alex
#13
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E90 N54 & W251
I think I have the same problem, I figured it was my catalytic going bad, I took it to the dealer and the said my engine mounts needed to be replaced, I did....and the humming/vibrate is still there. I would like some info from anybody with this problem like yourself so I can have some knowledge so I dont get another useless repair.
Thanks
Alex
Thanks
Alex
Have you checked the transmission mounts?
#14
I think I have the same problem, I figured it was my catalytic going bad, I took it to the dealer and the said my engine mounts needed to be replaced, I did....and the humming/vibrate is still there. I would like some info from anybody with this problem like yourself so I can have some knowledge so I dont get another useless repair.
Thanks
Alex
Thanks
Alex
If no contact and the 'humming' or 'droning' sound is present, then the Pulsation damper/accumulator must be replaced.
It also states that changing the PS pump will NOT solve the problem of 'humming' or 'droning' sound.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by Ifari; 10-29-2023 at 08:58 AM.
#15
Hi, my 2002 CL 500 has a humming vibrating noise with spreads through out the chasis but I can feel it stronly through the floor. After a few months this has gotten worse and the ABC lights up and doesnt go off, my dealer says its the Suspension Valve located in the bottom of the suspension accumulator. Could someone please help me out with part number or any info on this. Thanks!
I was having this same vibration as well but without any drop in the suspension. I took the car in and was told that the Accumulator internally combusted and fragments damaged the sensor. I was told that the Accumulator, Sensors and filter need changing. A few months ago I was told there was a very small minor leak in one of the hoses but not much to worry about at that time. Would it save any money to go ahead and replace this hose as well while they other work has to be done? What else should be changed while the system is down, or is it not any less expensive to to things now?
My extended warranty is covering the accumulator and the sensor. The sensor is way expensive.
Thanks for your help.
Last edited by Austinite; 06-04-2009 at 11:20 PM.
#16
ey guys wsp pleaseeee help me out. i have a 2002 cl500 and this noise coming under it and the ABC light is on and everytime i drive a little the back of my car drops sooo bad where it sais turn off the car.... i took it to the dealer they said that its gonna cost me about 8,000 dollars to fix it.. so i just left lol . i have no idea what to do.
#17
Member
I have a popping sound in my front end and have taken it back twice. This month it went ouf to warranty and they said the popping sound was a loose bolt. Because it's come loose it's made the mounting hole larger and the only solution is to R&R the subframe but that's not covered under warranty..I think this is BS, since the first time I had it it, they didn't resolve the issue.
did you ever get more info on the damaged subframe or cost to fix?
thanks..
did you ever get more info on the damaged subframe or cost to fix?
thanks..
#19
Hi
I have a 2002 CL500 and the rear left side is about 1 inch lower than the rear right. While I am driving I can hear a light knocking noise coming from that corner. I don't have any errors or warning lights displayed.
When I raise the car it levels out ok so I am not sure if the shocks need to be changed which I understand is very expensive.
I have my car booked into a garage for Saturday but am worried about driving it until then. Can someone please advise if they have experienced anything like this or what else could be causing this?
Thanks
Kaz
I have a 2002 CL500 and the rear left side is about 1 inch lower than the rear right. While I am driving I can hear a light knocking noise coming from that corner. I don't have any errors or warning lights displayed.
When I raise the car it levels out ok so I am not sure if the shocks need to be changed which I understand is very expensive.
I have my car booked into a garage for Saturday but am worried about driving it until then. Can someone please advise if they have experienced anything like this or what else could be causing this?
Thanks
Kaz
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
Try parking the car the other way round.
If the left rear is too low, then the right front must be too high. Otherwise the ground is not level, and then ABC behaves differently when the engine is running or not. When the engine is running, it levels the whole car so the average ride height left and right is correct. It doesn't do that when the engine is off - it just levels the front wheels, and lets the rears look after themselves. I don't know why.
Best thing to do is find a really flat piece of ground to park on, and then measure. Out of interest, try measuring with the engine on and off. Otherwise not much point measuring.
Nick
If the left rear is too low, then the right front must be too high. Otherwise the ground is not level, and then ABC behaves differently when the engine is running or not. When the engine is running, it levels the whole car so the average ride height left and right is correct. It doesn't do that when the engine is off - it just levels the front wheels, and lets the rears look after themselves. I don't know why.
Best thing to do is find a really flat piece of ground to park on, and then measure. Out of interest, try measuring with the engine on and off. Otherwise not much point measuring.
Nick
Last edited by Welwynnick; 02-09-2016 at 07:53 AM.
#22
Thank you for your replies.
I am more concerned about the knocking noise whilst driving. I will take a look at the height tomorrow as my office has a level car park.
I have booked the car in for Saturday morning so I will get them to connect the MB computer to check for any faults.
Thanks again
Kaz
I am more concerned about the knocking noise whilst driving. I will take a look at the height tomorrow as my office has a level car park.
I have booked the car in for Saturday morning so I will get them to connect the MB computer to check for any faults.
Thanks again
Kaz