DIY 722.9 7G-tronic 7-speed automatic transmission service thread

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...+722.9+service

The use of 236.14 fluid is mandated. Ryder fleet products have by far the best deal on this product by Shell at under US$ 6 per quart. Most dealers are charging over $20/quart. The Shell product is fully approved. Many use Fuchs Titan 4134 as well.
See description. It is Shell product in a Shell container - Pennzoil is owned by Shell. Many have confirmed correct product in Shell packaging on receipt.
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ry...oductDetail.do



Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Dec 9, 2011 at 05:27 PM.

MERCEDES-automatic-transmission-722-9
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W204 - https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...s-60k-kms.html
W203 - https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...s-60k-kms.html
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jan 21, 2012 at 11:41 AM.
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I just found in another thread where someone who just had a transmission service found that he was charged for 6 quarts of fluid and the concensus is that they must have not done the torque converter as it should have taken 9 quarts.
Does this sound right and does it apply to my 2008 C300????
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-done-but.html
Last edited by JimPap; May 4, 2012 at 08:12 AM.
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I was invited to bring car and they show me, I will do that.
What now ?, is my question.

Thanks! Jerry

Last edited by Nero Tenebre; Feb 22, 2014 at 01:40 PM.
Can I determine if my trans uses blue or red from the VIN?
WDD2040772A658173
....Found it 236.15 blue for post 21st June 2010
Last edited by Missionary; Aug 6, 2015 at 07:29 AM.

- Torque Converter draining: Finding the T/C drain plug without an assistant as I did was made much easier by doing it by feel - I had to be close to the front end of the engine to supply sufficient strength to the breaker bar to rotate the engine (and therefore you can't see into the little T/C inspection window) - but I found it quite easy to reach back into the opening with my free hand and just feel the T/C surface as I slowly rotated it with the breaker bar. This way you really can't miss the plug.
- Transmission cooler flush using compressor air - forced fluid: In the video Scott uses a conical rubber fitting on a metal tube to hook up temporarily to the cooler line for the flush. I found it much easier to use 12mm clear tube (instead of 10mm) which fits just nicely onto the cooler line over the o-ringed end. This allowed me to not have to shift the cooler line end as far away from the transmission, as I could easily curve the vinyl tube onto the line fitting. I didn't worry about damaging the o-rings as I replaced them when I finished the flush part (just a couple of $).
- I used new factory pan bolts as I wouldn't trust the different expansion rates if substituting steel as Scott did. I also used MB fluid, as here in Australia the difference was only about $40 dearer than the aftermarket fluid.
All went well. No leaks.
I bought the CLK with just 50 K kilometers on the clock, but didn’t discover the need for the ‘once-only ATF replacement at 60,000 k’ until recently. It IS in the maintenance book, but hidden under ‘other maintenance’ ! There is no mention in the service history of it having been done before I bought it (it was not even due). So the change was well overdue.
Used all OEM parts for safety. Happily The oil pan was the new one so all good there.
I drained the pan and the torque converter, but did not flush the lines or cooler.
Some thoughts:
- when we opened the pan drain, quite a bit of oil came out. Why would this be when the level should only have been to the top of the filler tube,especially when cold? Would it have been overfilled at factory, or is there some other reason.
- The oil was not too black, and there was little or no metal sticking to the magnets. Maybe I am lucky, but it did make me wonder if the change had been already made for some reason.
- I had trouble getting a filler tube, so we made one from a nylon bolt with the correct thread and drilled a hole down the middle.
- We used my son’s car lift, which allowed us to sit underneath to work. I am not sure how we would have managed without it.
cheers.
- When we removed the pan plug, there was a gush of ATF. This surprised me as I expected there to be no oil above the filler tube,especially when cold ! Can anyone suggest why the oil would be at that level?

The level is checked when running and therefore fluid is "in place" in the various valves and actuators and also above the natural drain level of the T/C as it is being pumped around in the transmission. When the transmission is stopped (engine off) the fluid drains back down into the pan as it is no longer "in use" in the mechanisms above the normal static fluid level. The static fluid level (even when cold)) would therefore be well above the top of the fill tube. If you look at the You tube videos you will see all of them (at least those that I watched) would drain maybe 1 to 2 litres at the first removal of the drain plug. Mine certainly did exactly that.



