Experience with Intercooler Replacement

[ddtham]

Hi everyone, I first noticed that my IC might be leaking when I would lose coolant at a rate of 1-2 quarts per week I opened the intake plenums (the one with AMG logo), and noticed gunk on both sides of the intake runners confirming my uncertainty. I was also suspicious, because a modded SRT-4 Caliber was able to keep up with me from 0-60 New IC was going for $1,500-ish, but I was able to get one from OverDrive (thanks man!), which was gently used before he went with Code 3. I will add that his IC looked pretty much brand new and arrived within 4 days. While I had my SC off, I decided to might as well upgrade/replace: 1. SC oil (aircraftspruce) 2. Needswings cork upper intake manifold gaskets (Needswings) 3. Needswings cork SC-IC gasket (Needswings) 4. MB OEM lower intake manifold gaskets (Dealer) 5. MB OEM secondary air injection gaskets (Dealer) 6. Upper Y-pipe from V8K to replace my DIY Code 3 T-pipe I used the instructions from Boohooramblers (Intercooler replacement). The removal was pretty straight forward. Couple of points to note: 1. I had an issue with removal of a vacuum hose that connects to the supercharger snout (picture below). The hose is very hard, I ended up cutting it with a saw and reconnected it with a fuel injection hose. I think I am still getting minor vacuum leak from this hose, therefore I decided to order from MB, which costed me $59 just for a hose! Oh well, live and learn I guess. 2. Six electrical connectors for the fuel injectors were a pain in the bottom to remove. If you plan to do this, I would suggest spraying some dielectric greaser. 3. MB Sealant was also a pain to apply, I should have purchased the caulk gun from Needswings as suggested by Rob. 4. Seafoam works wonders in cleaning the gunk from the engine and everything else. 5. Some of the bolts have different length for the same part, I would suggest creating a diagram and label it appropriately. 6. You would need two people or a hoist with a special bracket to lift the SC and IC, unless if you're a machine. FYI, upon talking to Rob, he mentioned the correlation of the higher-flowing Johnson CM30 IC pump with failing intercooler. He has seen it on some customers' cars and always suggested to just replace it with OEM Bosch pump. I might do that really soon. I would like to just mention that Rob went above and beyond just selling me the gaskets and called it good, I emailed him at 11 pm and he replied five minutes later! He was also always there to answer even the most mundane questions. I would recommend Needswings to everyone. All in all, it took me around 24 work hours to do this, but that includes cleaning all of the crap from intake runners, intake walls, plenums, throttle body, supercharger, valve covers, drain coolant, etc. I would recommend this DIY to anyone with basic mechanical skills The car drives much better than before, I think the leak causes my car to lose around 50 hp I still cannot decide if I like the Y-pipe over Code 3 Intake. The Y-pipe makes the car sound like raped ape, while Code 3 just sounds cool, because you can hear any throttle response.

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[Lenin]

+1 for bravery. And +1 for recommending Rob.
I don't agree however with the connection between Johnson CM30 and the Intercooler failure. My first intercooler failed shortly after the original Bosch failed and the second intecooler outlived the Johnson pump I put in place of the Bosch. I think the issue is that once the pump fails, the higher temps compromise the intercooler core. Maybe Gen2 OEM Bosch is more reliable but the original Bosch failed often. So, if you replace your original pump with Johnson but the intercooler was already compromised, it looks like it was the fault of the Johnson pump. I haven't heard of too many intercooler problems with the original working Bosch still in place. But that's just my theory.

[320 dreamer]

your missing the locking tab for the black hose. it goes over the red part. squeeze it in on the sides and the line pulls out.

[ZAHANMA]

Originally Posted by 320 dreamer

your missing the locking tab for the black hose. it goes over the red part. squeeze it in on the sides and the line pulls out.

+1

If you have the locking tab on there I don't think you would be seeing any leaks.

Well done on the work, and I completely agree that Rob goes above and beyond all the time for his customers.

[OverDrive]

NP, Seems like your install went without any major hickups. Ya its a pain to take out the S/C but I manage to do it by myself, its at least 80-100lb's but its so bulky so its hard to handle

[ddtham]

Thanks everyone,

The pic was taken before I took the hose off, and the locking tab was off the picture.

I still had to wait for 1-2 weeks before the replacement hose comes from germany, therefore the car currently has an oversized hose that goes over the protrusion and the original hose. I couldn' put the locking tab over the connecting hose and just resorted to duct tape for now

Lenin, it might be true about cm30 not affecting ic leakage, perhaps we can ask high milage c32s on whether they have to replace ic at all despite different ic pumps being used.

On another note, I was ready to sell the c32 before this, but after replacing the ic, I think I will hang onto it. I test drove a stock E55k but felt no difference with my 32 from 0-80 ish.

[Lenin]

Originally Posted by ddtham

Thanks everyone,

The pic was taken before I took the hose off, and the locking tab was off the picture.

I still had to wait for 1-2 weeks before the replacement hose comes from germany, therefore the car currently has an oversized hose that goes over the protrusion and the original hose. I couldn' put the locking tab over the connecting hose and just resorted to duct tape for now

Lenin, it might be true about cm30 not affecting ic leakage, perhaps we can ask high milage c32s on whether they have to replace ic at all despite different ic pumps being used.

On another note, I was ready to sell the c32 before this, but after replacing the ic, I think I will hang onto it. I test drove a stock E55k but felt no difference with my 32 from 0-80 ish.

Well... I'm at 130K miles. I also think that a big factor towards IC reliability may also be a split cooling setup. If the system is de-pressurized, it should help reliabilty.

[lizardjack]

Originally Posted by ddtham

Hi everyone,

I first noticed that my IC might be leaking when I would lose coolant at a rate of 1-2 quarts per week I opened the intake plenums (the one with AMG logo), and noticed gunk on both sides of the intake runners confirming my uncertainty. I was also suspicious, because a modded SRT-4 Caliber was able to keep up with me from 0-60

New IC was going for $1,500-ish, but I was able to get one from OverDrive (thanks man!), which was gently used before he went with Code 3. I will add that his IC looked pretty much brand new and arrived within 4 days.

While I had my SC off, I decided to might as well upgrade/replace:
1. SC oil (aircraftspruce)
2. Needswings cork upper intake manifold gaskets (Needswings)
3. Needswings cork SC-IC gasket (Needswings)
4. MB OEM lower intake manifold gaskets (Dealer)
5. MB OEM secondary air injection gaskets (Dealer)
6. Upper Y-pipe from V8K to replace my DIY Code 3 T-pipe

I used the instructions from Boohooramblers (Intercooler replacement).

The removal was pretty straight forward. Couple of points to note:
1. I had an issue with removal of a vacuum hose that connects to the supercharger snout (picture below). The hose is very hard, I ended up cutting it with a saw and reconnected it with a fuel injection hose.

I think I am still getting minor vacuum leak from this hose, therefore I decided to order from MB, which costed me $59 just for a hose! Oh well, live and learn I guess.
2. Six electrical connectors for the fuel injectors were a pain in the bottom to remove. If you plan to do this, I would suggest spraying some dielectric greaser.
3. MB Sealant was also a pain to apply, I should have purchased the caulk gun from Needswings as suggested by Rob.
4. Seafoam works wonders in cleaning the gunk from the engine and everything else.
5. Some of the bolts have different length for the same part, I would suggest creating a diagram and label it appropriately.
6. You would need two people or a hoist with a special bracket to lift the SC and IC, unless if you're a machine.

FYI, upon talking to Rob, he mentioned the correlation of the higher-flowing Johnson CM30 IC pump with failing intercooler. He has seen it on some customers' cars and always suggested to just replace it with OEM Bosch pump. I might do that really soon.

I would like to just mention that Rob went above and beyond just selling me the gaskets and called it good, I emailed him at 11 pm and he replied five minutes later! He was also always there to answer even the most mundane questions. I would recommend Needswings to everyone.

All in all, it took me around 24 work hours to do this, but that includes cleaning all of the crap from intake runners, intake walls, plenums, throttle body, supercharger, valve covers, drain coolant, etc. I would recommend this DIY to anyone with basic mechanical skills

The car drives much better than before, I think the leak causes my car to lose around 50 hp I still cannot decide if I like the Y-pipe over Code 3 Intake. The Y-pipe makes the car sound like raped ape, while Code 3 just sounds cool, because you can hear any throttle response.

Just FYI to remove the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster the only thing you had to do was press that red bushing inside and pull the hose

[effinboss]

WTB C32 intercooler
Wanted to buy ASAP C32 intercooler for my 2002 C32 AMG. Prefer new or new condition.

Please email me call or text
Effinboss@gmail.com
Cell: 401-480-5201