Resonator & Charcoal Filters Delete
#1
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Resonator & Charcoal Filters Delete
i have a cls63, was wondering when i delete the charcoal filters , which ones do i replace them with? am i better off with the K&N's or the green filters? also when i delete the resonator do i lose or gain hp? about how much gain for delete of resonator and charcoal filters? thanks in advance for the help!
#3
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man, you're everywhere asking questions... lol
the point of removing the charcoal filters is to remove them permanently... you will still have the stock filters... you can replace the stock filters with something else such as K&N's, green filter, or BMC, and others... (i have a set of slightly used K&N's for sale if you're interested)
i believe the resonator will only get you a sound increase
charcoal filter removal may be minimal if any increase, but with other mods that require more air flow it may be better
the point of removing the charcoal filters is to remove them permanently... you will still have the stock filters... you can replace the stock filters with something else such as K&N's, green filter, or BMC, and others... (i have a set of slightly used K&N's for sale if you're interested)
i believe the resonator will only get you a sound increase
charcoal filter removal may be minimal if any increase, but with other mods that require more air flow it may be better
#5
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no problem... i'm not a wiki, that stuff is just fresh in my head since i went through a similar research process to get my car the way it is now... lots of questions asked, got lots of answers... we're here to help each other out
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#9
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the only reason i have bmc filters is because my ROW boxes came with it when i bought it from another member... and i just decided to go with the bmc... i have no idea if i've gained more or not from the K&Ns vs bmc
#11
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i have a cls63, was wondering when i delete the charcoal filters , which ones do i replace them with? am i better off with the K&N's or the green filters? also when i delete the resonator do i lose or gain hp? about how much gain for delete of resonator and charcoal filters? thanks in advance for the help!
Last edited by DuaneC63; 06-26-2012 at 08:12 PM.
#12
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2012 C63C AMG
Just deleting the charcoal filter from the USA airboxes might help a bit(the filters you want to replace are the airfilters, but whatever you do don't get oiled filters, they are more trouble than they are worth). A better (admittedly more expensive) solution is to replace with ROW airboxes. The intake passage on the ROW boxes looks about 25% larger. You can get the ROW airboxes for a C class at ACG in San Diego (board sponsor). Ask them if they will fit a CLS intake. If you decide to delete the resonator, put in an x pipe (you'll have to have it made). This will make the exhaust louder but not raspy. The X pipe also help the scavaging effect. I haven't seen any premade resonator X pipe resonator deletes. So youll have to settle for aluminized steel as most shops don't do stainless. Make sure they set it up as a direct bolt on/off replacement so you can always swap it out at home. They may have to add some clamps or flanges to do this. On a C class there is just one cut and they add a slip clamp. The mufflers on a C class also have a better sound than the CLS and I know several people have retrofitted them to E63. With all the exhause ACG does they may know of some stock C63 mufflers for sale.
#13
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You don't have to but consider that the stock resonator has cross flow inside (letting both the left and right exhaust pulses combine) in addition to baffles to smooth and soften the sound. Putting two straight pipes will be louder but it will sound like two 4 cylinder engines (hence higher pitch). The X pipe gives the exhaust the deeper V-8 rumble you're looking for. Also since your getting an exhaust pulse every 90 degrees (as opposed every 180 degrees with straight pipes) this increases the scavaging effect (ie the vacumn left behind each exhaust pulse) to help pull the next exhaust pulse through the pipe. This is one of the reason long tube headers with 4 into one collector work so well (beside all the additional diameter for flow) as it also has a scavaging effect. Also consider removing the secondary cats as they are restrictive and down stream of the second O2 sensor so it will not throw CEL or change how the engine management system runs. Attached is a pic of your exhaust and the suggested mods. This require two cuts. I've found out that most muffler shops cannot work with stainless so you have settle for aluminized steel and stainless slip clamps at the two cuts. They can also do flanges at the cuts which is a bit more work. Some guys just cut everything out and weld it in, but then you have have it recut and rewelded if you go back to stock (like a warranty claim, smog test, or sale).
Last edited by DuaneC63; 06-26-2012 at 08:10 PM.
#14
Senior Member
You don't have to but consider that the stock resonator has cross flow inside (letting both the left and right exhaust pulses combine) in addition to baffles to smooth and soften the sound. Putting two straight pipes will be louder but it will sound like two 4 cylinder engines (hence higher pitch). The X pipe gives the exhaust the deeper V-8 rumble you're looking for. Also since your getting an exhaust pulse every 90 degrees (as opposed every 180 degrees with straight pipes) this increases the scavaging effect (ie the vacumn left behind each exhaust pulse) to help pull the next exhaust pulse through the pipe. This is one of the reason long tube headers with 4 into one collector work so well (beside all the additional diameter for flow) as it also has a scavaging effect. Also consider removing the secondary cats as they are restrictive and down stream of the second O2 sensor so it will not throw CEL or change how the engine management system runs. Attached is a pic of your exhaust and the suggested mods. This require two cuts. I've found out that most muffler shops cannot work with stainless so you have settle for aluminized steel and stainless slip clamps at the two cuts. They can also do flanges at the cuts which is a bit more work. Some guys just cut everything out and weld it in, but then you have have it recut and rewelded if you go back to stock (like a warranty claim, smog test, or sale).
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Since you already cut out the resonator it make more sense to put an X pipe in place of the secondary cats as they are side by side and this is an easy location. Pulling the secondary cats (or even primary cats) will add some sound, but beyond that you have to consider a complete cat back exhaust system. ACG carries a full titanium system that will rock your world but its $$$$$. To gain maxmimum HP/TQ, long tube headers (not those wimpy log type or tri y headers) and replacing the primary and secondary cats with high flow 100 cell metal substrate cats hooked up to the aforementioned titanium system would produce some monsters sound. In any system you should have an x pipe someplace for both sound and flow improvements.
Last edited by DuaneC63; 06-28-2012 at 02:41 AM.
#16
Senior Member
Since you already cut out the resonator it make more sense to put an X pipe in place of the secondary cats as they are side by side and this is an easy location. Pulling the secondary cats (or even primary cats) will add some sound, but beyond that you have to consider a complete cat back exhaust system. ACG carries a full titanium system that will rock you're world but its $$$$$. To gain maxmimum HP/TQ, long tube headers and replacing the primary and secondary cats with high flow 100 cell metal substrate cats hooked up to the aforementioned titanium system would produce some monsters sound. In any system you should have an x pipe someplace for both sound and flow improvements.
and thanks for your help.
#17
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San Diego
(877) 422-4736
Ask for Peter. He's forgotten more than I'll ever know about C63's. They have two MBZ certified techs on staff and they have done some monster builds
#19
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I know that MBH makes a secondary cat delete in stainless with an integrated X pipe. No sure if a double X system gets you anything hp or sound wise.