Looking for info on CL600
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Looking for info on CL600
I posted this in another forum last week and got no answers. Hoping for better luck here.
I am considering buying a 2007+ CL600. I am doing research right now, probably buy after X-mas. I don't know much about these cars, and I have never owned a Mercedes although I was considering an SL a couple years back. I ended up with a Jaguar XKR instead. Other than that my experience is with American cars. I am in the market for another car and friend mentioned that I might look at the CL600 and I like what I see (at least what I see on the internet).
Is there anything I should watch out for when shopping for one? Are any specific years better than other years (style changes not withstanding)?
How much room is in the back seat? Is it big enough for average/small adults?
Thanks for any help.
I am considering buying a 2007+ CL600. I am doing research right now, probably buy after X-mas. I don't know much about these cars, and I have never owned a Mercedes although I was considering an SL a couple years back. I ended up with a Jaguar XKR instead. Other than that my experience is with American cars. I am in the market for another car and friend mentioned that I might look at the CL600 and I like what I see (at least what I see on the internet).
Is there anything I should watch out for when shopping for one? Are any specific years better than other years (style changes not withstanding)?
How much room is in the back seat? Is it big enough for average/small adults?
Thanks for any help.
#2
Super Member
V12 is costly to maintain.
I am speaking from experience of having to maintain a 2004 CL600 from new until 91k, as well as a 2008 CL600 from 12k until 75k over the past 13 years combined.
the W215 and W216 have the exact same engine, so items like ignition coils and anything that has to do with the cooling of the turbos and engine have to be maintained with care. ABC hydraulic pump and steering pump are one and the same, so preventative maintenance on this should be done as well, i.e. fluid flush and filter replacement for ABC pump. Any time these cars go into the shop, it is easily upwards of $500 to $1k or more. If the ABC pump fails, that's $3k easy. Each air suspension will cost $1k plus labor at a dealer. Ignition coils are $1.5k per bank. I know a great independent shop in Saint Louis (Euro Car), but my mother does regular maintenance at Marion Mercedes out of convenience.
As far as room for adults in the back. it is not terribly cramped, but I would not recommend for anything longer than an hour or two. this is a driver's car with an occasional passenger.
As I have previously stated, V12s are very temperamental, but if you factor in the sheer performance of these engines, think of it as an alternative to owning a traditional exotic, like an Italian vehicle.
My mother has driven a CL600 since 2003 and she couldn't settle for less. We owned an '04 from Dec '03 until Feb '12 and the '08 CL600 ever since Feb '12.
Power delivery is smooth and quiet, but with the force of a freight train. She uses it as a daily driver, and relatively speaking, it has not needed to go into the shop for other than regular maintenance up until about a year ago. Distronic has failed, engine mounts needed replacing, and the ABC suspension has been flushed. This coupe, regardless of V8 or V12, eats through tires every 15k miles or less.
If you're in the market for a CL600, consider looking at the CL550 face-lift, or CL63. Both have great performance and upgradeability, but a 550 will cost less to maintain. Plus, you will have the added bonus of 4Matic. A facelift model will have the V8TT, so an ECU upgrade will easily get you into AMG territory. Remember that an AMG will also have maintenance issues with performance parts, but not so much the engine itself as the V8 is a bit more reliable.
CL600 will have every option available, as well as exclusive nappa leather on the seats, as well as dash and all touch surfacess. CL63 won't have all options unless it is ordered like this, either by package or Designo.
General consensus will agree that these cars aren't cheap to maintain, but they are a joy to drive and give people a unique experience that is not common in cars within this price range, especially used. the real pain comes at the pump and the shop.
Whatever your choice, if you have these expectations in mind, the pill shouldn't be as painful to swallow. pockets will hurt the longer you own them, regardless. After all, a used $100k car for $20k will cost as much as a new $100k to maintain.
the W215 and W216 have the exact same engine, so items like ignition coils and anything that has to do with the cooling of the turbos and engine have to be maintained with care. ABC hydraulic pump and steering pump are one and the same, so preventative maintenance on this should be done as well, i.e. fluid flush and filter replacement for ABC pump. Any time these cars go into the shop, it is easily upwards of $500 to $1k or more. If the ABC pump fails, that's $3k easy. Each air suspension will cost $1k plus labor at a dealer. Ignition coils are $1.5k per bank. I know a great independent shop in Saint Louis (Euro Car), but my mother does regular maintenance at Marion Mercedes out of convenience.
As far as room for adults in the back. it is not terribly cramped, but I would not recommend for anything longer than an hour or two. this is a driver's car with an occasional passenger.
As I have previously stated, V12s are very temperamental, but if you factor in the sheer performance of these engines, think of it as an alternative to owning a traditional exotic, like an Italian vehicle.
My mother has driven a CL600 since 2003 and she couldn't settle for less. We owned an '04 from Dec '03 until Feb '12 and the '08 CL600 ever since Feb '12.
Power delivery is smooth and quiet, but with the force of a freight train. She uses it as a daily driver, and relatively speaking, it has not needed to go into the shop for other than regular maintenance up until about a year ago. Distronic has failed, engine mounts needed replacing, and the ABC suspension has been flushed. This coupe, regardless of V8 or V12, eats through tires every 15k miles or less.
If you're in the market for a CL600, consider looking at the CL550 face-lift, or CL63. Both have great performance and upgradeability, but a 550 will cost less to maintain. Plus, you will have the added bonus of 4Matic. A facelift model will have the V8TT, so an ECU upgrade will easily get you into AMG territory. Remember that an AMG will also have maintenance issues with performance parts, but not so much the engine itself as the V8 is a bit more reliable.
CL600 will have every option available, as well as exclusive nappa leather on the seats, as well as dash and all touch surfacess. CL63 won't have all options unless it is ordered like this, either by package or Designo.
General consensus will agree that these cars aren't cheap to maintain, but they are a joy to drive and give people a unique experience that is not common in cars within this price range, especially used. the real pain comes at the pump and the shop.
Whatever your choice, if you have these expectations in mind, the pill shouldn't be as painful to swallow. pockets will hurt the longer you own them, regardless. After all, a used $100k car for $20k will cost as much as a new $100k to maintain.
Last edited by ghaffar23; 11-14-2016 at 11:47 AM.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. I am not really considering a V8 right now, mostly because I want the full leather interior. I live in Alabama where snow is very rare so AWD isn't a big plus either (on the rare occasions it does snow I have a 4x4 suburban with all terrain tires).
I do all my own maintenance so that will save me money on labor and I currently have 5 other cars for three drivers so if one is out of commission for a few weeks it is not a big deal. As far as reliability, other than the coils is there anything failure prone on the V12?
The V12s also have a variant of the common Chrysler 5 speed transmission. That seems like it would be a big plus both because those transmissions are stout to begin with, parts are available everywhere and they are easy to rebuild. I don't know much about the 7 speed transmissions, but with AWD I would imagine they are much more complicated.
I do all my own maintenance so that will save me money on labor and I currently have 5 other cars for three drivers so if one is out of commission for a few weeks it is not a big deal. As far as reliability, other than the coils is there anything failure prone on the V12?
The V12s also have a variant of the common Chrysler 5 speed transmission. That seems like it would be a big plus both because those transmissions are stout to begin with, parts are available everywhere and they are easy to rebuild. I don't know much about the 7 speed transmissions, but with AWD I would imagine they are much more complicated.
#4
Super Member
There's nothing that I can recall for V12 issues aside from the coil packs. The engine gets quite warm, so keep an eye on auxiliary items like the radiator and water pump, IC pump. That being said, most of these cars were dealer maintained, so you'll be able to get a pretty clean example quite easily that has had these items regularly examined.
The 5sp transmission is quite beefy and it can handle the torque the V12 generates. That has not changed for the 600 V12. Perform a transmission fluid flush, as well as differential fluid flush at regular intervals.
Since this won't be your daily driver, that will help tremendously on minimizing wear and tear.
I agree with you on the full leather. We have a Mystic white exterior and Porcelain Designo interior with piano trim and that is the most beautiful color scheme when it came out in 2008. Everything is semi-aniline, nappa, and alcantara. I wouldn't have a CL any other way if I hadon't a choice. Unless you can find a face-lift Designo V8.
They're great cars and compared to a Lamborghini, Ferrari, Maserati, or Aston Martin, they're a little bit less to maintain and they're not as flashy.
The 5sp transmission is quite beefy and it can handle the torque the V12 generates. That has not changed for the 600 V12. Perform a transmission fluid flush, as well as differential fluid flush at regular intervals.
Since this won't be your daily driver, that will help tremendously on minimizing wear and tear.
I agree with you on the full leather. We have a Mystic white exterior and Porcelain Designo interior with piano trim and that is the most beautiful color scheme when it came out in 2008. Everything is semi-aniline, nappa, and alcantara. I wouldn't have a CL any other way if I hadon't a choice. Unless you can find a face-lift Designo V8.
They're great cars and compared to a Lamborghini, Ferrari, Maserati, or Aston Martin, they're a little bit less to maintain and they're not as flashy.
Last edited by ghaffar23; 11-15-2016 at 11:46 AM.
#5
Junior Member
There's nothing that I can recall for V12 issues aside from the coil packs. The engine gets quite warm, so keep an eye on auxiliary items like the radiator and water pump, IC pump. That being said, most of these cars were dealer maintained, so you'll be able to get a pretty clean example quite easily that has had these items regularly examined.
The 5sp transmission is quite beefy and it can handle the torque the V12 generates. That has not changed for the 600 V12. Perform a transmission fluid flush, as well as differential fluid flush at regular intervals.
Since this won't be your daily driver, that will help tremendously on minimizing wear and tear.
I agree with you on the full leather. We have a Mystic white exterior and Porcelain Designo interior with piano trim and that is the most beautiful color scheme when it came out in 2008. Everything is semi-aniline, nappa, and alcantara. I wouldn't have a CL any other way if I hadon't a choice. Unless you can find a face-lift Designo V8.
They're great cars and compared to a Lamborghini, Ferrari, Maserati, or Aston Martin, they're a little bit less to maintain and they're not as flashy.
The 5sp transmission is quite beefy and it can handle the torque the V12 generates. That has not changed for the 600 V12. Perform a transmission fluid flush, as well as differential fluid flush at regular intervals.
Since this won't be your daily driver, that will help tremendously on minimizing wear and tear.
I agree with you on the full leather. We have a Mystic white exterior and Porcelain Designo interior with piano trim and that is the most beautiful color scheme when it came out in 2008. Everything is semi-aniline, nappa, and alcantara. I wouldn't have a CL any other way if I hadon't a choice. Unless you can find a face-lift Designo V8.
They're great cars and compared to a Lamborghini, Ferrari, Maserati, or Aston Martin, they're a little bit less to maintain and they're not as flashy.
as a matter of fact I am also looking for a CL600....I'd like to know how much does the regular maintenance cost, things like changing the fluids,seals etc and at what intervals of mileage (km or miles pls specify) is the maintenance done at
other than that what parts should I ensure had been replaced in the past. ?
what questions should I ask the dealership when I'm getting the inspection done ?
(I am looking at an 08 CL 600 rn)
#6
Super Member
as a matter of fact I am also looking for a CL600....I'd like to know how much does the regular maintenance cost, things like changing the fluids,seals etc and at what intervals of mileage (km or miles pls specify) is the maintenance done at
other than that what parts should I ensure had been replaced in the past. ?
what questions should I ask the dealership when I'm getting the inspection done ?
(I am looking at an 08 CL 600 rn)
other than that what parts should I ensure had been replaced in the past. ?
what questions should I ask the dealership when I'm getting the inspection done ?
(I am looking at an 08 CL 600 rn)
Brake rotors are around $1500 and that depends on how hard a driver is on brakes. I have an E class that I drive daily and it is in its sixth year of its rotors. They will need replacing by next service because I feel vibration when braking.
Also, if there is any vibration not from the brakes, the transmission and or engine mounts may need replacing. At around 60k miles, we had to get them replaced @ $500, give or take. Honestly, if it is not routine maintenance, it could get close to $1000. If it is a hydraulic pump, steering, suspension, or ABC issue, those can be upwards of $1000 or more. Keep in mind that the air suspension is the Achilles heel for these high end Mercedes. If I were to do this all over again, the instant I have issues with the air suspension, I would immediately retrofit with aftermarket conversion springs.
For the V12, check to see if ignition coils have been replaced, check if transmission has been flushed, differential fluid flushed, hydraulic fluid and filters, air suspension, hydraulic hoses, brake rotors and pads replaced, and of course the brand of tires and if it has been dealer maintained or great independent shop records. Anything from the dealer can have the maintenance record pulled from STAR database via VIN. I said tire brand because the cost of tires tell alot about how the owner spent on the car. Obviously the better the brand, the better they took care of the car, generally speaking.
When we bought the '08 CL600 in 2012, the records were immaculate. Based on the low mileage, 12k at the time, it wasn't a daily driver, and the tires were brand new Michelin Pilot Super Sport. Maintenance records were good and we asked about the original owner who was older and had this as a secondary car. He traded it in for a new CL63. We purchased the car from Westminster Mercedes.
Last edited by ghaffar23; 11-17-2016 at 09:45 PM.
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TheCLguy (11-23-2016)
#7
Junior Member
Regular maintenance will be $400 to $500 per year. The normal A and B service are like all Mercedes, but there are different intervals for flushing the hydraulic fluid every other year or 20k miles (~$500), transmission and differential fluid flush should be done every 40k to 50k @ $500+. Also coolant flush is good to do every other year or 20k miles. These cars run hot, so it's imperative to keep the cooling system in top working order.
Brake rotors are around $1500 and that depends on how hard a driver is on brakes. I have an E class that I drive daily and it is in its sixth year of its rotors. They will need replacing by next service because I feel vibration when braking.
Also, if there is any vibration not from the brakes, the transmission and or engine mounts may need replacing. At around 60k miles, we had to get them replaced @ $500, give or take. Honestly, if it is not routine maintenance, it could get close to $1000. If it is a hydraulic pump, steering, suspension, or ABC issue, those can be upwards of $1000 or more. Keep in mind that the air suspension is the Achilles heel for these high end Mercedes. If I were to do this all over again, the instant I have issues with the air suspension, I would immediately retrofit with aftermarket conversion springs.
For the V12, check to see if ignition coils have been replaced, check if transmission has been flushed, differential fluid flushed, hydraulic fluid and filters, air suspension, hydraulic hoses, brake rotors and pads replaced, and of course the brand of tires and if it has been dealer maintained or great independent shop records. Anything from the dealer can have the maintenance record pulled from STAR database via VIN. I said tire brand because the cost of tires tell alot about how the owner spent on the car. Obviously the better the brand, the better they took care of the car, generally speaking.
When we bought the '08 CL600 in 2012, the records were immaculate. Based on the low mileage, 12k at the time, it wasn't a daily driver, and the tires were brand new Michelin Pilot Super Sport. Maintenance records were good and we asked about the original owner who was older and had this as a secondary car. He traded it in for a new CL63. We purchased the car from Westminster Mercedes.
Brake rotors are around $1500 and that depends on how hard a driver is on brakes. I have an E class that I drive daily and it is in its sixth year of its rotors. They will need replacing by next service because I feel vibration when braking.
Also, if there is any vibration not from the brakes, the transmission and or engine mounts may need replacing. At around 60k miles, we had to get them replaced @ $500, give or take. Honestly, if it is not routine maintenance, it could get close to $1000. If it is a hydraulic pump, steering, suspension, or ABC issue, those can be upwards of $1000 or more. Keep in mind that the air suspension is the Achilles heel for these high end Mercedes. If I were to do this all over again, the instant I have issues with the air suspension, I would immediately retrofit with aftermarket conversion springs.
For the V12, check to see if ignition coils have been replaced, check if transmission has been flushed, differential fluid flushed, hydraulic fluid and filters, air suspension, hydraulic hoses, brake rotors and pads replaced, and of course the brand of tires and if it has been dealer maintained or great independent shop records. Anything from the dealer can have the maintenance record pulled from STAR database via VIN. I said tire brand because the cost of tires tell alot about how the owner spent on the car. Obviously the better the brand, the better they took care of the car, generally speaking.
When we bought the '08 CL600 in 2012, the records were immaculate. Based on the low mileage, 12k at the time, it wasn't a daily driver, and the tires were brand new Michelin Pilot Super Sport. Maintenance records were good and we asked about the original owner who was older and had this as a secondary car. He traded it in for a new CL63. We purchased the car from Westminster Mercedes.
Plus you said that these cars run hot...I heard the regular temp of the car goes close to a 100 degrees...is it normal ?
...cheers
Last edited by TheCLguy; 11-23-2016 at 04:14 AM.
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#8
Super Member
Thanks a lot...will keep this stuff into account....what about the gas mileage....how much does it cost to fill up and how many miles/km does it give in one tank...lets take an average use of the car on everyday basis where we have some city traffic and a highway routine
Plus you said that these cars run hot...I heard the regular temp of the car goes close to a 100 degrees...is it normal ?
...cheers
Plus you said that these cars run hot...I heard the regular temp of the car goes close to a 100 degrees...is it normal ?
...cheers
13mpg city/20mpg highway/16mpg combined
These are US values, so translate accordingly.
These CL600s have a large tank, I believe 23.8 gallons or 90L. I know it is bigger than E class, which is 21.1 gallons, or 80L. It translates to a little over 450 miles per tank for CL600 with just highway. The range for E class comes out to about the same. You may get more, depending on your right foot. Mileage for city driving is a little over 350 miles.
As far as operating temperature, see below.
Operating temperature is around 90C. Completely normal.
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TheCLguy (12-09-2016)
#9
Auburn2, I own an 2007 XJR and I have to say it is a fantastic trouble free car. I bought it because I needed an every day car that I could take where ever I wanted, junk yards etc. I have owned since 2000, 6 CL 600's all new and all without trouble (except for an 04 with an electrical daemon inside).
I current have an 06 CL 600 with 3K miles, which has never been in for anything but services.
My 2014 Full Designo CL 600 has also never had a single problem except for a defective door latch. As for the coils, they were revised in 2010 or 2011, so you won't have to worry about those issues that preceded those years. I personally think if your going to buy a CL buy an 11 up not a 10 down. As for keeping up a high mileage or older car, proceed with caution. In 2007 they went to the W216 platform and revised the entire car, so most everything that happened on the W215 will not happen on the W216. The only exception are the coil packs (which have been address in later production cars)
If you go with a 550 remember the interior is actually MB tex and only the seat surfaces, steering wheel, console lid and door arm rests are actually leather. If you buy a Designo 550 will you get a full leather interior and foe suede headliner.
So, if your looking for full leather don't buy a 550 without a Designo interior and if possible buy an 11 up.
Good luck on your quest.
I current have an 06 CL 600 with 3K miles, which has never been in for anything but services.
My 2014 Full Designo CL 600 has also never had a single problem except for a defective door latch. As for the coils, they were revised in 2010 or 2011, so you won't have to worry about those issues that preceded those years. I personally think if your going to buy a CL buy an 11 up not a 10 down. As for keeping up a high mileage or older car, proceed with caution. In 2007 they went to the W216 platform and revised the entire car, so most everything that happened on the W215 will not happen on the W216. The only exception are the coil packs (which have been address in later production cars)
If you go with a 550 remember the interior is actually MB tex and only the seat surfaces, steering wheel, console lid and door arm rests are actually leather. If you buy a Designo 550 will you get a full leather interior and foe suede headliner.
So, if your looking for full leather don't buy a 550 without a Designo interior and if possible buy an 11 up.
Good luck on your quest.
#10
Junior Member
Gas mileage is dismal at best in the city, but the highway is pretty decent. Combined is middle of the range.
13mpg city/20mpg highway/16mpg combined
These are US values, so translate accordingly.
These CL600s have a large tank, I believe 23.8 gallons or 90L. I know it is bigger than E class, which is 21.1 gallons, or 80L. It translates to a little over 450 miles per tank for CL600 with just highway. The range for E class comes out to about the same. You may get more, depending on your right foot. Mileage for city driving is a little over 350 miles.
As far as operating temperature, see below.
Operating temperature is around 90C. Completely normal.
13mpg city/20mpg highway/16mpg combined
These are US values, so translate accordingly.
These CL600s have a large tank, I believe 23.8 gallons or 90L. I know it is bigger than E class, which is 21.1 gallons, or 80L. It translates to a little over 450 miles per tank for CL600 with just highway. The range for E class comes out to about the same. You may get more, depending on your right foot. Mileage for city driving is a little over 350 miles.
As far as operating temperature, see below.
Operating temperature is around 90C. Completely normal.
so...I guess I should be more careful with the engine temp....coz the one I looked at was having a slightly higher engine temp....
what I've read off the internet so far is saying like 13mpg which is a bit worrying, knowing that with time its gonna increase...but knowing that its an avg of 16...guess its good then
I looked up a couple of literature and it insisted that if the engine has been overheated then there would be oil in the radiator water tank/bottle...do you know where I could find the radiator bottle in the engine...like is it towards the top right or where exactly would it be...
from your experience will a cl600 from 08' have ever been in an overheating incident by now (2016) and we are on the verge of beginning 2017
Moreover what about the issue with the coil packs ?...I read off that the $7K-$10K repair is only good enough for 50K miles...have you ever faced such probs ?
is the standard interior of the cl600 a brown/pinkish one ?
I highly appreciate the time and effort you have put in so far
Last edited by TheCLguy; 12-09-2016 at 08:45 AM.
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thanks a lot for the details
so...I guess I should be more careful with the engine temp....coz the one I looked at was having a slightly higher engine temp....
what I've read off the internet so far is saying like 13mpg which is a bit worrying, knowing that with time its gonna increase...but knowing that its an avg of 16...guess its good then
I looked up a couple of literature and it insisted that if the engine has been overheated then there would be oil in the radiator water tank/bottle...do you know where I could find the radiator bottle in the engine...like is it towards the top right or where exactly would it be...
from your experience will a cl600 from 08' have ever been in an overheating incident by now (2016) and we are on the verge of beginning 2017
Moreover what about the issue with the coil packs ?...I read off that the $7K-$10K repair is only good enough for 50K miles...have you ever faced such probs ?
is the standard interior of the cl600 a brown/pinkish one ?
I highly appreciate the time and effort you have put in so far
so...I guess I should be more careful with the engine temp....coz the one I looked at was having a slightly higher engine temp....
what I've read off the internet so far is saying like 13mpg which is a bit worrying, knowing that with time its gonna increase...but knowing that its an avg of 16...guess its good then
I looked up a couple of literature and it insisted that if the engine has been overheated then there would be oil in the radiator water tank/bottle...do you know where I could find the radiator bottle in the engine...like is it towards the top right or where exactly would it be...
from your experience will a cl600 from 08' have ever been in an overheating incident by now (2016) and we are on the verge of beginning 2017
Moreover what about the issue with the coil packs ?...I read off that the $7K-$10K repair is only good enough for 50K miles...have you ever faced such probs ?
is the standard interior of the cl600 a brown/pinkish one ?
I highly appreciate the time and effort you have put in so far
I average 13-14mpg real world in my car. I do NOT drive it easy though, it's regularly run up over 100mph and enjoyed, the car is useless for putting around town, the V12 is a joy on the highway and just relentlessly powerful and smooth.
The coil pack issue is overblown IMO, the cars need coils usually due to lack of maintenance (if you don't change plugs when you should, the added load on the coils can cause failures), or damage they take when being removed (had one of mine come apart during a plug change, brittle original plastic just broke off). The part is under $1000 if you try, and the labor isn't bad at all, couple hours at most. The replacement part is going to be updated and will last even longer, in most cases I see original coils that are 10+ years old and have 100k miles on them still working fine.
#14
Junior Member
The cars don't normally overheat, but they run up to 95C before the fan comes on full blast and the car has a lot of radiators/coolers, two turbos, etc. The engine bay is a hot place and the plastic components take a beating with age.
I average 13-14mpg real world in my car. I do NOT drive it easy though, it's regularly run up over 100mph and enjoyed, the car is useless for putting around town, the V12 is a joy on the highway and just relentlessly powerful and smooth.
The coil pack issue is overblown IMO, the cars need coils usually due to lack of maintenance (if you don't change plugs when you should, the added load on the coils can cause failures), or damage they take when being removed (had one of mine come apart during a plug change, brittle original plastic just broke off). The part is under $1000 if you try, and the labor isn't bad at all, couple hours at most. The replacement part is going to be updated and will last even longer, in most cases I see original coils that are 10+ years old and have 100k miles on them still working fine.
I average 13-14mpg real world in my car. I do NOT drive it easy though, it's regularly run up over 100mph and enjoyed, the car is useless for putting around town, the V12 is a joy on the highway and just relentlessly powerful and smooth.
The coil pack issue is overblown IMO, the cars need coils usually due to lack of maintenance (if you don't change plugs when you should, the added load on the coils can cause failures), or damage they take when being removed (had one of mine come apart during a plug change, brittle original plastic just broke off). The part is under $1000 if you try, and the labor isn't bad at all, couple hours at most. The replacement part is going to be updated and will last even longer, in most cases I see original coils that are 10+ years old and have 100k miles on them still working fine.
so what are the steps to look for the problems from the on board system.....appreciate your help
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Nothing to check in the dash. You can look at the maintenance system for the next scheduled service, but that's easy to reset and not reliable. I would make sure there are NO warning messages coming up, if there are, get the car fully scanned and figure out why. Any suspension errors can be very expensive. A check engine light can be something very simple, or something expensive like a misfire that requires a coil replacement or more.
On cars of this nature, it pays to have the car inspected by a Mercedes specialist independent shop before purchase, unless you are going to be fixing it yourself and have a STAR unit.
On cars of this nature, it pays to have the car inspected by a Mercedes specialist independent shop before purchase, unless you are going to be fixing it yourself and have a STAR unit.
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TheCLguy (01-20-2017)
#16
Junior Member
Nothing to check in the dash. You can look at the maintenance system for the next scheduled service, but that's easy to reset and not reliable. I would make sure there are NO warning messages coming up, if there are, get the car fully scanned and figure out why. Any suspension errors can be very expensive. A check engine light can be something very simple, or something expensive like a misfire that requires a coil replacement or more.
On cars of this nature, it pays to have the car inspected by a Mercedes specialist independent shop before purchase, unless you are going to be fixing it yourself and have a STAR unit.
On cars of this nature, it pays to have the car inspected by a Mercedes specialist independent shop before purchase, unless you are going to be fixing it yourself and have a STAR unit.
#17
No, if you use the extened 0-40 Mobil 1, then you can go 15K miles but keep with the factory recommendations. 10K miles is long enough. I dont go by time but by miles. I havent changed my oil in my 06 with 3K miles since it was bought new. I know that full sythetic oils do no need changing but they want to sell oil. I sent mine out to be tested and the result came back that I had 98% life left on the oil.
As for coil packs, the later ones will last forever. I just changed my spark plugs on my 07 XJR with 103K miles and they didnt even need changing, no wear no nothing. It was a waste of $60.00 but I wanted to see what they would look like. The coils are the original's and the coils on that engine are known to take a crap at about 60K.
The updated coils on the later version CL's should last a while, they corrected all of the defects but you will know when one goes out and you can change them yourself in about 30 minutes or less, depending on your skill set.
As for your temp. guage, it is in the normal range. Remember it may say 90* on the guage but its actually 220* (being under pressure keeps it from boiling).
As for maintaince the main thing is to keep the fluids changed on the 550 cars that have the 5 and 7 speed transmissions. The ZF on the CL will not need maintance.
The brake fluid is a must change. If you can obtain a chem strip to tell the acidity, keep tabs on it. My Bentley GT Speed with 19K miles was really bad. My Jag with 102K miles is still non acidic. Go figure. Keep check on the alkalinity of the fluid.
Also, make sure your coolant is always in range with a Hydrometer. Replace as needed. Miles if driven on the freeway can sometimes be your friend. In town stop and go driving with high miles is not. Just as low miles cars with age can be detrimental as well, if not maintained.
As for coil packs, the later ones will last forever. I just changed my spark plugs on my 07 XJR with 103K miles and they didnt even need changing, no wear no nothing. It was a waste of $60.00 but I wanted to see what they would look like. The coils are the original's and the coils on that engine are known to take a crap at about 60K.
The updated coils on the later version CL's should last a while, they corrected all of the defects but you will know when one goes out and you can change them yourself in about 30 minutes or less, depending on your skill set.
As for your temp. guage, it is in the normal range. Remember it may say 90* on the guage but its actually 220* (being under pressure keeps it from boiling).
As for maintaince the main thing is to keep the fluids changed on the 550 cars that have the 5 and 7 speed transmissions. The ZF on the CL will not need maintance.
The brake fluid is a must change. If you can obtain a chem strip to tell the acidity, keep tabs on it. My Bentley GT Speed with 19K miles was really bad. My Jag with 102K miles is still non acidic. Go figure. Keep check on the alkalinity of the fluid.
Also, make sure your coolant is always in range with a Hydrometer. Replace as needed. Miles if driven on the freeway can sometimes be your friend. In town stop and go driving with high miles is not. Just as low miles cars with age can be detrimental as well, if not maintained.
Last edited by 2014CL600; 01-20-2017 at 09:38 PM.
The following users liked this post:
TheCLguy (01-22-2017)
#18
Junior Member
No, if you use the extened 0-40 Mobil 1, then you can go 15K miles but keep with the factory recommendations. 10K miles is long enough. I dont go by time but by miles. I havent changed my oil in my 06 with 3K miles since it was bought new. I know that full sythetic oils do no need changing but they want to sell oil. I sent mine out to be tested and the result came back that I had 98% life left on the oil.
As for coil packs, the later ones will last forever. I just changed my spark plugs on my 07 XJR with 103K miles and they didnt even need changing, no wear no nothing. It was a waste of $60.00 but I wanted to see what they would look like. The coils are the original's and the coils on that engine are known to take a crap at about 60K.
The updated coils on the later version CL's should last a while, they corrected all of the defects but you will know when one goes out and you can change them yourself in about 30 minutes or less, depending on your skill set.
As for your temp. guage, it is in the normal range. Remember it may say 90* on the guage but its actually 220* (being under pressure keeps it from boiling).
As for maintaince the main thing is to keep the fluids changed on the 550 cars that have the 5 and 7 speed transmissions. The ZF on the CL will not need maintance.
The brake fluid is a must change. If you can obtain a chem strip to tell the acidity, keep tabs on it. My Bentley GT Speed with 19K miles was really bad. My Jag with 102K miles is still non acidic. Go figure. Keep check on the alkalinity of the fluid.
Also, make sure your coolant is always in range with a Hydrometer. Replace as needed. Miles if driven on the freeway can sometimes be your friend. In town stop and go driving with high miles is not. Just as low miles cars with age can be detrimental as well, if not maintained.
As for coil packs, the later ones will last forever. I just changed my spark plugs on my 07 XJR with 103K miles and they didnt even need changing, no wear no nothing. It was a waste of $60.00 but I wanted to see what they would look like. The coils are the original's and the coils on that engine are known to take a crap at about 60K.
The updated coils on the later version CL's should last a while, they corrected all of the defects but you will know when one goes out and you can change them yourself in about 30 minutes or less, depending on your skill set.
As for your temp. guage, it is in the normal range. Remember it may say 90* on the guage but its actually 220* (being under pressure keeps it from boiling).
As for maintaince the main thing is to keep the fluids changed on the 550 cars that have the 5 and 7 speed transmissions. The ZF on the CL will not need maintance.
The brake fluid is a must change. If you can obtain a chem strip to tell the acidity, keep tabs on it. My Bentley GT Speed with 19K miles was really bad. My Jag with 102K miles is still non acidic. Go figure. Keep check on the alkalinity of the fluid.
Also, make sure your coolant is always in range with a Hydrometer. Replace as needed. Miles if driven on the freeway can sometimes be your friend. In town stop and go driving with high miles is not. Just as low miles cars with age can be detrimental as well, if not maintained.
#19
Go by your service manual
I dont follow the manuals miles not age. So, it depends on your miles. I live where it doesnt get cooler that 75* and the heat is around 110* in the summer with no humidity. So, your results may vary. A lot of the service is not needed where other are essential. I noticed on one post a guy mentioned that the W125 coils were the same as the W216. That is not the case for later versions of the W216. At some point in production they figured out that there was a defect and that was corrected. He also went on to mention that the PS pump were also the same. That to is incorrect. They were also corrected. W215's had major issues as he mentioned but in 2008 they improved upon these componets and kept on doing so until now. They wanted to make higher quality cars instead of making more cars. That was the new promise made by Mercedes, since they were in dead last in quality and customer satisfaction. I would suggest keeping the filter on the suspension change as well as the fluid. They have upgraded the filters on the W216 from a 10 micron filter to a 3 micron filter and I changed mine, airing on the side or caution, even though mine is still in warranty. Fluids are the key to any cars survival rate. Just follow your service manual and it will keep you going for a very long time. FYI, most of this stuff is DYI. Good luck. Remember, buy the newest version that you can afford.
#20
Junior Member
I dont follow the manuals miles not age. So, it depends on your miles. I live where it doesnt get cooler that 75* and the heat is around 110* in the summer with no humidity. So, your results may vary. A lot of the service is not needed where other are essential. I noticed on one post a guy mentioned that the W125 coils were the same as the W216. That is not the case for later versions of the W216. At some point in production they figured out that there was a defect and that was corrected. He also went on to mention that the PS pump were also the same. That to is incorrect. They were also corrected. W215's had major issues as he mentioned but in 2008 they improved upon these componets and kept on doing so until now. They wanted to make higher quality cars instead of making more cars. That was the new promise made by Mercedes, since they were in dead last in quality and customer satisfaction. I would suggest keeping the filter on the suspension change as well as the fluid. They have upgraded the filters on the W216 from a 10 micron filter to a 3 micron filter and I changed mine, airing on the side or caution, even though mine is still in warranty. Fluids are the key to any cars survival rate. Just follow your service manual and it will keep you going for a very long time. FYI, most of this stuff is DYI. Good luck. Remember, buy the newest version that you can afford.
MY question was (I'd love to rephrase it ): other than the regular services...when do the major services occur ? (ie more expensive services)
#21
I've never had a car with higher than 20K miles other than the Jaguar. So,
I'm not sure. I just know I don't go by the book only by the miles. I've never had to do a major service. My 2006 CL 600 doesn't have any miles on it, so I've never done anything to it except change the suspension filter and fluid and brake fluid and oil once. That's all. The 2014 CL is under warranty for 2 1/2 more years but I don't have but around 2k miles on it. I haven't changed that oil yet.
I'm not sure. I just know I don't go by the book only by the miles. I've never had to do a major service. My 2006 CL 600 doesn't have any miles on it, so I've never done anything to it except change the suspension filter and fluid and brake fluid and oil once. That's all. The 2014 CL is under warranty for 2 1/2 more years but I don't have but around 2k miles on it. I haven't changed that oil yet.
Last edited by 2014CL600; 01-23-2017 at 09:41 PM.
The following users liked this post:
TheCLguy (01-24-2017)
#22
Junior Member
I've never had a car with higher than 20K miles other than the Jaguar. So,
I'm not sure. I just know I don't go by the book only by the miles. I've never had to do a major service. My 2006 CL 600 doesn't have any miles on it, so I've never done anything to it except change the suspension filter and fluid and brake fluid and oil once. That's all. The 2014 CL is under warranty for 2 1/2 more years but I don't have but around 2k miles on it. I haven't changed that oil yet.
I'm not sure. I just know I don't go by the book only by the miles. I've never had to do a major service. My 2006 CL 600 doesn't have any miles on it, so I've never done anything to it except change the suspension filter and fluid and brake fluid and oil once. That's all. The 2014 CL is under warranty for 2 1/2 more years but I don't have but around 2k miles on it. I haven't changed that oil yet.
sweet ride tho...love the color
#23
I have just given my 2008 CL600 to a dealer and very good friend to sell. It has only 23,000 miles and is 040 black/black interior. Personally I would only buy a very low mileage one. The car is magnificent and I will be buying another one when this one sells.
It is at Carbine Motorcars in New Orleans. Thanks and good luck!
It is at Carbine Motorcars in New Orleans. Thanks and good luck!
#24
To add a little more to possibly help you if you haven't bought anything yet, to me, this is the absolute best value for the money relative to any other luxury GT. These cars depreciate dramatically from their $153,000 sticker. So to find one like mine for under $40,000 with such low mileage is I believe the safest choice.
I have owned at the same time a few years back a 2003 S600 and a 2003 CL55. Both were very quick but completely different driving characteristics. I felt at the time that the perfect solution if I could only have one would have been a CL600. I don't mile up cars as much as I did at the time I owned the other two. I also currently have an E550 as a daily driver.
I will tell you that I changed transmission in S600 but got 100,000 miles before selling it.
Some ABC issues but not until miles got to around 60,000 if memory serves me correctly. So that's my take on the importance of paying a little more for a low mileage example over buying one with 50,000 plus miles.
If you have not driven a CL600, you will be amazed at the quiet and powerful V12. It will take your breath away on the highway.
It also is the only car that my wife, who is not a car person, absolutely loves!
I have owned at the same time a few years back a 2003 S600 and a 2003 CL55. Both were very quick but completely different driving characteristics. I felt at the time that the perfect solution if I could only have one would have been a CL600. I don't mile up cars as much as I did at the time I owned the other two. I also currently have an E550 as a daily driver.
I will tell you that I changed transmission in S600 but got 100,000 miles before selling it.
Some ABC issues but not until miles got to around 60,000 if memory serves me correctly. So that's my take on the importance of paying a little more for a low mileage example over buying one with 50,000 plus miles.
If you have not driven a CL600, you will be amazed at the quiet and powerful V12. It will take your breath away on the highway.
It also is the only car that my wife, who is not a car person, absolutely loves!