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- Mercedes Benz E Class How to Replace Brake pads/calipers/rotors
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
DIY Front Brake Job 2006 E350
#26
Out Of Control!!
Thread Starter
Your welcome. It was actually fun as I don't get to work on my cars very much anymore.
#27
Senior Member
1. Do you have to dismount the caliper to insert the spreaders into position? If the old pads are pushed up against the rotor, there's nothing (or not much) for the spreader to mate up to.
2. Are you supposed to pop the old pads out first, then slip the spreader into the gap between the rotor and the pistons, and mate it up to the pistons to drive them back into the caliper?
Many thanks for suggesting the spreaders.
#28
Out Of Control!!
Thread Starter
Questions:
1. Do you have to dismount the caliper to insert the spreaders into position? If the old pads are pushed up against the rotor, there's nothing (or not much) for the spreader to mate up to.
2. Are you supposed to pop the old pads out first, then slip the spreader into the gap between the rotor and the pistons, and mate it up to the pistons to drive them back into the caliper?
Many thanks for suggesting the spreaders.
1. Do you have to dismount the caliper to insert the spreaders into position? If the old pads are pushed up against the rotor, there's nothing (or not much) for the spreader to mate up to.
2. Are you supposed to pop the old pads out first, then slip the spreader into the gap between the rotor and the pistons, and mate it up to the pistons to drive them back into the caliper?
Many thanks for suggesting the spreaders.
Also, these comments only apply to the caliper that my 2006 has which is the 4 piston caliper with the "Mercedes Benz" on the front. Not sure about the other calipers.
Lastly, I would not spend the money on such a tool unless I was planning to do a lot of brake jobs. It is not a big deal to just remove the caliper (two bolts) and use a c clamp.
#29
Good write up
Here is a modification I would do at step 11 if you don't have a the proper tool or c clamp. Well actually I do have the proper tools but I find this just as easy if not easier.
If you want to get fancy and not push old fluid back up into the master you could put a hose at the bleeder, have it go into a jar, open it then do this next step.
Here is a modification I would do at step 11 if you don't have a the proper tool or c clamp. Well actually I do have the proper tools but I find this just as easy if not easier.
If you want to get fancy and not push old fluid back up into the master you could put a hose at the bleeder, have it go into a jar, open it then do this next step.
#30
The other thing I noticed is...
Where are your sensors?
At least on the 03-05 you have one for each of the two front wheels.
And I believe (someone please correct me if I am wrong and have them switched) The left or driver's side gets the sensor in the pad with the hole at the 50% drilled mark. while the right side gets the sensor installed in the 15% drilled hole.
Where are your sensors?
At least on the 03-05 you have one for each of the two front wheels.
And I believe (someone please correct me if I am wrong and have them switched) The left or driver's side gets the sensor in the pad with the hole at the 50% drilled mark. while the right side gets the sensor installed in the 15% drilled hole.
#34
Out Of Control!!
Thread Starter
Good write up
Here is a modification I would do at step 11 if you don't have a the proper tool or c clamp. Well actually I do have the proper tools but I find this just as easy if not easier.
If you want to get fancy and not push old fluid back up into the master you could put a hose at the bleeder, have it go into a jar, open it then do this next step.
Here is a modification I would do at step 11 if you don't have a the proper tool or c clamp. Well actually I do have the proper tools but I find this just as easy if not easier.
If you want to get fancy and not push old fluid back up into the master you could put a hose at the bleeder, have it go into a jar, open it then do this next step.
The other thing I noticed is...
Where are your sensors?
At least on the 03-05 you have one for each of the two front wheels.
And I believe (someone please correct me if I am wrong and have them switched) The left or driver's side gets the sensor in the pad with the hole at the 50% drilled mark. while the right side gets the sensor installed in the 15% drilled hole.
Where are your sensors?
At least on the 03-05 you have one for each of the two front wheels.
And I believe (someone please correct me if I am wrong and have them switched) The left or driver's side gets the sensor in the pad with the hole at the 50% drilled mark. while the right side gets the sensor installed in the 15% drilled hole.
#35
Out Of Control!!
Thread Starter
Thanks!
#36
Super Member
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10 speed bicycle
The 50% sensor was eliminated due to causing AM radio static. There was a DTB to remove them from all 211's. Also just unpluging the SBC unit does not release pressure stored in the accumulator on the SBC pump.
#37
Thanks
Thanks for a detailed post that helped me get the job done. While I did not have the dual calipers on my 2006 E350 4Matic, I did find this post extremely helpful. I just finished the front brakes tonight so let me add a few things that might help others. Before you lock the doors, get your wheel installation guide out of the car, you will not want to risk unlocking during the repair. Locking the doors before removing the sensor connection is a key step, the car will post an error if you don't lock the door. Not sure what will happen, but it seems locking puts some monitoring to sleep. You will need a breaker bar style wrench to loosen the 18mm nuts you see in the pictures, they are on tight! The torx nut on my car was a #35, you'll want the torx that fits a 3/8 drive not one that is a t-handle or 90 degree angle. I had to buy a whole set from Home depot for $12, not a big deal as I got 9 others with it. you also need a 7mm allen wrench to remove the calipers, not a common allen type, $12 for a set of 10 from home depot. Again, get the ratchet style. You also need a 3/8 ratchet with a thin end for the top bolts , round ratchets will have problems, there isn't much room to maneuver. I only have two sensors both passenger sides on the front and rear brake. Finally, I recommend using parts.com, takes awhile, but originally MB parts and unbeatable prices. I got brakes, rotors and sensors all the way around for $458 shipped. Thanks again for a fantastic post!
#38
Just got this DIY done this afternoon and I have to thank you! Followed everything step by step and it went without a hitch! I saved myself $460 from the dealership quote to do the repair. Total parts cost $220. One thing i would recommend as an edit on your DYI (if you have the 4 piston caliper) that when resetting the piston you need have one side clamped down when clamping down the other side. Had a irritating moment when i would clamp down one side and the other would push out.
And tip. With the Caliper off i used the old pad to have a nice snug wedge.
Rev if you're ever in Sacramento Ca. look me up I owe you a beer!
Thanks!
And tip. With the Caliper off i used the old pad to have a nice snug wedge.
Rev if you're ever in Sacramento Ca. look me up I owe you a beer!
Thanks!
#40
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'12 Mustang 5.0, '89 Supra Turbo, C55,
Thanks for the great. detailed, well thought-out write-up! It prolly took you longer to take pics. and document, than doing the actual work!!
I didn't know our calipers are Brembo's!
CAN THIS BE MADE A STICKY?
I didn't know our calipers are Brembo's!
CAN THIS BE MADE A STICKY?
#43
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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2003 Mercedes-Benz E500
Question
Hey there, I have a question in regards to the red BRAKE light that shows up in the dash when you have to change your brakes. I recently replaced the front pads, rotors and sensors on my 2003 E500. The only thing i didn't do was unhook the SBC unit, I had no idea i had to do that. My question is why is the light in my dash still on after i replaced the pads, rotors and sensors? I basically did everything this post says except for unhooking the SBC unit. I also tried resetting the light with the scan tool and no luck. Also, the brake pedal still goes pretty far down when i press it... Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
#44
MBWorld Fanatic!
You need
to have it pressure bled.
You are lucky to not have lost a body part working on sbc not knowing the dangers.
You are lucky to not have lost a body part working on sbc not knowing the dangers.
#45
Senior Member
Thanks for the detailed write up
I'll be changing the front brake pads in the next couple of weeks (rotors still in good shape). Plan on using the akebono euro ceramic pads, which will make cleaning the wheels much easier.
I'll be changing the front brake pads in the next couple of weeks (rotors still in good shape). Plan on using the akebono euro ceramic pads, which will make cleaning the wheels much easier.
#48
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w211 e500
do you have to bleed the brake to push the pistons in the calipers? or can you just push it in with calipers without bleeding it like on a regular car the fluids just go back into the resevior as long that you open the cap?