revstriker

Yes. I've got a cheapo spreader which does not work, but I have seen better ones which probably would work.

Your welcome. It was actually fun as I don't get to work on my cars very much anymore.

Heatwave

Questions:

1. Do you have to dismount the caliper to insert the spreaders into position? If the old pads are pushed up against the rotor, there's nothing (or not much) for the spreader to mate up to.

2. Are you supposed to pop the old pads out first, then slip the spreader into the gap between the rotor and the pistons, and mate it up to the pistons to drive them back into the caliper?

Many thanks for suggesting the spreaders.

revstriker

Depending on the type of caliper spreader you have, you do not have to dismount the caliper. But you would most likely remove the old brake pads first, and then insert a caliper spreader. There are many different kinds on the market, but one like this should work:



Also, these comments only apply to the caliper that my 2006 has which is the 4 piston caliper with the "Mercedes Benz" on the front. Not sure about the other calipers.

Lastly, I would not spend the money on such a tool unless I was planning to do a lot of brake jobs. It is not a big deal to just remove the caliper (two bolts) and use a c clamp.

health services

Good write up

Here is a modification I would do at step 11 if you don't have a the proper tool or c clamp. Well actually I do have the proper tools but I find this just as easy if not easier.

If you want to get fancy and not push old fluid back up into the master you could put a hose at the bleeder, have it go into a jar, open it then do this next step.

health services

The other thing I noticed is...

Where are your sensors?

At least on the 03-05 you have one for each of the two front wheels.

And I believe (someone please correct me if I am wrong and have them switched) The left or driver's side gets the sensor in the pad with the hole at the 50% drilled mark. while the right side gets the sensor installed in the 15% drilled hole.

W211 Ryda

Awesome write up! Should be stickied!

bbaumgar

great write up.very detailed

MBNUT1

You are to be applauded for your generosity in assembling such a thorough write which will inspire confidence in others to take on this job.

revstriker

I would imagine this would work, but I would be worried about damaging the rotor. If you are going to replace the rotor anyway (as I was), I think it would be easier to just take the caliper off first. But I'm sure there are 100 different ways to do it.


On my E350 (06), there are two sensors. One is on the front passenger side, and the other is on one of the rear. In my example above, the drivers side, there was no sensor, and no place to plug one in to. Also, both of my sensors are the same. But you may be correct that on other year/models, there may be a sensor on both front wheels. But you should note that the sensors are not the same on both sides.

revstriker

Thanks!

MBtech1098

The 50% sensor was eliminated due to causing AM radio static. There was a DTB to remove them from all 211's. Also just unpluging the SBC unit does not release pressure stored in the accumulator on the SBC pump.

yurystephan

Thanks for a detailed post that helped me get the job done. While I did not have the dual calipers on my 2006 E350 4Matic, I did find this post extremely helpful. I just finished the front brakes tonight so let me add a few things that might help others. Before you lock the doors, get your wheel installation guide out of the car, you will not want to risk unlocking during the repair. Locking the doors before removing the sensor connection is a key step, the car will post an error if you don't lock the door. Not sure what will happen, but it seems locking puts some monitoring to sleep. You will need a breaker bar style wrench to loosen the 18mm nuts you see in the pictures, they are on tight! The torx nut on my car was a #35, you'll want the torx that fits a 3/8 drive not one that is a t-handle or 90 degree angle. I had to buy a whole set from Home depot for $12, not a big deal as I got 9 others with it. you also need a 7mm allen wrench to remove the calipers, not a common allen type, $12 for a set of 10 from home depot. Again, get the ratchet style. You also need a 3/8 ratchet with a thin end for the top bolts , round ratchets will have problems, there isn't much room to maneuver. I only have two sensors both passenger sides on the front and rear brake. Finally, I recommend using parts.com, takes awhile, but originally MB parts and unbeatable prices. I got brakes, rotors and sensors all the way around for $458 shipped. Thanks again for a fantastic post!

Cbtech

Just got this DIY done this afternoon and I have to thank you! Followed everything step by step and it went without a hitch! I saved myself $460 from the dealership quote to do the repair. Total parts cost $220. One thing i would recommend as an edit on your DYI (if you have the 4 piston caliper) that when resetting the piston you need have one side clamped down when clamping down the other side. Had a irritating moment when i would clamp down one side and the other would push out.

And tip. With the Caliper off i used the old pad to have a nice snug wedge.

Rev if you're ever in Sacramento Ca. look me up I owe you a beer!

Thanks!

revstriker

Haven't checked this post in a while. Glad to see that it has helped others. Also, thanks for all the added tips and suggestions.

gnma

Thanks for the great. detailed, well thought-out write-up! It prolly took you longer to take pics. and document, than doing the actual work!!

I didn't know our calipers are Brembo's!

CAN THIS BE MADE A STICKY?

revstriker

Will do. Making both the front and the rear stickys.

vettdvr

Did you do the front wheel bearings? Any pics?

Artie500

Hey there, I have a question in regards to the red BRAKE light that shows up in the dash when you have to change your brakes. I recently replaced the front pads, rotors and sensors on my 2003 E500. The only thing i didn't do was unhook the SBC unit, I had no idea i had to do that. My question is why is the light in my dash still on after i replaced the pads, rotors and sensors? I basically did everything this post says except for unhooking the SBC unit. I also tried resetting the light with the scan tool and no luck. Also, the brake pedal still goes pretty far down when i press it... Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

ohlord

to have it pressure bled.
You are lucky to not have lost a body part working on sbc not knowing the dangers.

wampa

Thanks for the detailed write up

I'll be changing the front brake pads in the next couple of weeks (rotors still in good shape). Plan on using the akebono euro ceramic pads, which will make cleaning the wheels much easier.

totalrecon

Excellent post! I'm about to service my brakes for the first time. This is just what I need to reference for successful completion. Thanks!

revstriker

You're welcome.

joesandiego1234

do you have to bleed the brake to push the pistons in the calipers? or can you just push it in with calipers without bleeding it like on a regular car the fluids just go back into the resevior as long that you open the cap?

radar

Nice writeup, but my 2006 E350 calipers look nothing like yours. Maybe because I have a 4matic?

ArcaneE270

Excellent post! Although my brakes don't look like yours, your write up gave me the confidence to tackle the job myself. Thanks again.