Help Source Fuel Tank



The car was absolutely trashed. Cylinder head had been pulled years ago, surface rust on pistons. Front end was covered in spider webs and weeds.
I got the front bumper (which had fog light holes cut into it), spare tire cover/carpet and some other odds and ends. My buddy grabbed the rear bumper impact (16V specific)
Thanks to SEC560 for the heads up about the car. I think he's going to come and pull some of the other goodies on there.
By the time I got there another guy had taken the front seat backs and rear seat bottoms and the fuel injection system/intake manifold.




Im thinking that if the strainer (2014700506) fits multiple models then I could use a hose from one of those cars.
Last edited by BetterDaze; Sep 16, 2021 at 02:57 PM.




Check and see if the 2.3L 8V part is the same as the 2.6L 12V hose.
If so I maybe able to help you.
-Cheers!
Last edited by dolucasi; Sep 20, 2021 at 10:14 PM.




A handful of models from this era use the same strainer and fuel pumps, I don’t see why that particular hose couldn’t also be interchangeable especially from another 201.
I guess I’ll go ahead with the tank removal when my parts come and reach back out if things do go wrong.
Last edited by BetterDaze; Sep 16, 2021 at 09:24 PM.




So if I were you, I would not change it until it is leaking. It is probably overdesigned as most fuel lines are for safety and there is no pressure on it.
A red car with a palomino interior showed up at a junk yard near me, and a went and picked a couple of plastic parts for the bottom of the manual seats I was missing (manual seat specific).
Long story short, I checked the plumbing near the gas tank for you and sure enough someone took everything (pumps, filter, Accumulator) except that hose was left there. Probably did not have the plumbers wrench or a special tool to remove it. It is indeed size 22 nut but no way one can get to it. Of course I did not bring my tool so it is still sitting there. I'll take it next trip hopefully before the car get's crushed.
- Cheers!




what about those other two hoses attached to the tank? Does the tank just come off of them or are there some clamps under the car I’ll need to undo?




- Remove the retaining bolts to the body from the trunk
- remove and slide the rubber hose around filler neck (be prepared to replace this it may have deteriorated)
- Remove the rubber hose clamp to the L shaped elbow before the first pump. Pull the fuel line off that elbow and be prepared to drain the tank so have a bucket ready.
- Now at this point you may think you can jostle the tank and get it out of the trunk. No dice! You will have to remove the hose feeder from below using some sort of 22mm open spanner or the plumbers wrench from below. It is really tight in there. I am going to try to remove this one in the JY on Saturday and let you know if the plumbers wrench works.
Good luck!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




So here is a completion of the steps and yes those 2 other hoses need to come out to. One is the charcoal canister return line, I have no idea what the other one is. Make sure and take the picture of which one is which as one has a check valve on it. You do not want to cross them up during installation.
- Remove the retaining bolts to the body from the trunk
- remove and slide the rubber hose around filler neck (be prepared to replace this it may have deteriorated)
- Remove the rubber hose clamp to the L shaped elbow before the first pump. Pull the fuel line off that elbow and be prepared to drain the tank so have a bucket ready.
- Now at this point you may think you can jostle the tank and get it out of the trunk. No dice! You will have to remove the hose feeder from below using the plumbers sink wrench from below. It is actually a pretty loose fitting because it does not need to be that tight (like the sink faucet) (I would not overtighten it in the installation either or you will be looking for a new tank pronto.
-Lastly there are 2 short hoses with simple pressure clamps on them, you will need to remove these too.
- You need to also remove the 4" by 9" rubber protection, that just pulls out.
- You are ready to jostle the tank any remove it from the trunk
Last edited by dolucasi; Sep 21, 2021 at 04:12 PM.




Waiting on the strainer to arrive and I also ordered the POR15 fuel tank restoration kit, should be ready to do this project by the weekend.




I just replaced my filter and swapped in another accumulator and there was a lot of bad fuel (nothing like yours but with some water) that came out from the tank side of the accumulator connection.
If you think about it that fuel is from the tank and has been there for ages as the accumulator does not allow fuel flow in the reverse direction.
I just replaced my filter and swapped in another accumulator and there was a lot of bad fuel (nothing like yours but with some water) that came out from the tank side of the accumulator connection.
If you think about it that fuel is from the tank and has been there for ages as the accumulator does not allow fuel flow in the reverse direction.




I put things on hold a couple days. I underestimated how far up into the bottom of the car that fuel tank exit hose was and the fitting was pretty corroded.




I ordered a fuel tank from a 91 model for my 87 and it didn’t fit! My original fuel tank was flat in the back and it seems late model tanks have a arch in them which I can can only assume was a anti crumble safety feature that was updated in the latter half of w201s.
Instead I just cleaned the tank I already had and reinstalled it. The fuel tank screen was stuck and it feels as if it’ll break off into the tank so I left it alone…
Refilled the car with about 10 gallons of gas made sure battery voltage was good and went on my first drive of the year. Didn’t even make it to the next light and we are back stalling but a lot sooner than before. It will idle maybe 1-2 minutes before it stalls out.
The fuel pumps are extremely loud and may have gotten reclogged before I had cleaned the tank out. Soon I will undo that entire system under the car and clean it out.
what do your fuel pumps sound like, Can you hear them at all times when the car is running?
-sent from my iPhone
Last edited by BetterDaze; Apr 1, 2022 at 09:47 PM.
I ordered a fuel tank from a 91 model for my 87 and it didn’t fit! My original fuel tank was flat in the back and it seems late model tanks have a arch in them which I can can only assume was a anti crumble safety feature that was updated in the latter half of w201s.
Instead I just cleaned the tank I already had and reinstalled it. The fuel tank screen was stuck and it feels as if it’ll break off into the tank so I left it alone…
Refilled the car with about 10 gallons of gas made sure battery voltage was good and went on my first drive of the year. Didn’t even make it to the next light and we are back stalling but a lot sooner than before. It will idle maybe 1-2 minutes before it stalls out.
The fuel pumps are extremely loud and may have gotten reclogged before I had cleaned the tank out. Soon I will undo that entire system under the car and clean it out.
what do your fuel pumps sound like, Can you hear them at all times when the car is running?
-sent from my iPhone




Sad thing is no shop will touch it for the reasons previously stated. I mean I could try and crank it off and hope for the best but could end up needing another fuel tank in the end. Like you said it is getting expensive but I have plenty of patience and won’t ever give up on the car, this should be the last thing needed to get it back on the road faithfully.
Just sort of stuck at the moment….I might have to just wait until I can find another fuel tank matching my exact year/model.




You might want to use some mild rust remover with mild Phosphoric acid to loosen it up. They work very well.
I might have mentioned before but all the plumbing down by the pump will need to be flushed out for sure. So it has to be taken apart.
On the pump noise, you should not be able to hear it. They are pretty quiet. Mine are quite old now as I have about 85K miles/ 20 years on them. Mine make a gurgling sound sometimes when they first turn on but it goes away in a minute or two. I have purchased a pair as I think mine might go out in the next 10K miles.




Thanks for the advice! I won’t be starting the car up again until that screen is replaced




- Cheers!




I will take my time on this and provide an update once my car is back running




He has boiled down my issue to two possible culprits. He recommended tackling the EZL first, car is losing spark and secondly the o2 sensor (mine is “lazy”, rounded and seized). The plan is to try and put a used EZL from a m103 motor to see if there’s any difference, once I get my car back I’ll try to get a muffler shop to torch off my seized o2 sensor.
Thoughts?
He has boiled down my issue to two possible culprits. He recommended tackling the EZL first, car is losing spark and secondly the o2 sensor (mine is “lazy”, rounded and seized). The plan is to try and put a used EZL from a m103 motor to see if there’s any difference, once I get my car back I’ll try to get a muffler shop to torch off my seized o2 sensor.
Thoughts?




remember outside the consumables (distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs) the rest is super reliable. That includes, coil and EZL.
Also a lazy O2 sensor will hardly be noticeable when driving because if everything else is on order and your FD/airflow meter is properly aligned the O2's function is limited by design, it is just fine tuning your lambda ratio.



