Good to hear Betterdaze. My only advice is to make sure the o-rings associated with the hook-ups to the tank are new and the mating surfaces are super clean. Otherwise due to the pressure in the tank, they tend to leak. I had to sand the fuel level sender surface to get it to not leak when I cleaned out the sender 6 years ago. Same goes with the connection at the feeder hose to the pump, I'm sure.

Good luck with the installation.

 

Thanks again dolucasi. I finally have some time to work on the car this weekend. I will no longer have access to a lift though and want to avoid getting under the car if possible.

Does anyone recall if there is enough room to get a wrench on the 22m supply line from within the trunk if you remove the bolts retaining the tank and slightly lift it up?

 

Hmmm, I do not think so. You need to get to that 22mm from the bottom and need a plumbers vice-wrench that works at a 90 degree angle.

 

Okay gotcha, I still have the plumbers wrench from harbor freight you recommended a while back.

 

Autozone has lightweight ramps which would work but since these are rear wheels you have to secure the ramp so that the wheels do not pull them under and fall off the edge.
That would cause body damage. You need to brace them or tape them to ground.

https://www.autozone.com/engine-and-...max/366075_0_0

 

Actually got to work today and this job is easier than expected I have my car parked on an incline and didn’t need to lift it or put it in ramps at all. I was able to source a couple possible leaks so good signs well be back rolling after this. Exit hose was loose and fuel pump banjo connection was leaking,no washers were on it.

I broke my plastic fuel tank vent valve (201 476 01 32) but looks easy to replace any suggestions on where to find another?

and can someone verify if washers need to go on both sides of the fuel pump banjo like the fuel filter in this pictured below or just one? New pumps didn’t come with any.

 

Pretty disappointed with bosch. I have a new pair in my stock and it does not have the crush washers in it either. It includes the check valves.
When you just order the check valve separately, it comes with the washers (3 one for the base, 2 for the banjo fitting).
Here is the proof:
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog/c...tem?s=d&page=2

- Cheers

 

Much appreciated! yeah Bosch is wrong to sell these pumps with no new crush washers. The Haynes manual was clear to replace them, so I’ll pause my project until i order some new ones, the vent valve is actually on autohausaz for pretty cheap.

Will update once I finally get everything back together and see how it runs.

 

You figure when you purchase a $100 pump, it ought to come with a couple of 20 cent crush washers! Shesh,,,

 

I totally agree with you. Doing such a slimy thing won't do wonders for Bosch's reputation.

 

Another parts option might be to scroll down the MB Classic Center's parts catalog that's now online to see if they might have the plastic fuel tank vent value you're looking for.

 

They did have it on classic center part number was superseded. Everything is back together except I lost the little electric terminal nuts for my fuel pumps and broke another brittle hose, the one that attaches from the elbow to the fuel accumulator. Thought I could combine my two exit hoses into one okay one but no…one cracked the other broke accumulator line.

Can I just get some 6mm nuts from Home Depot? And where can I get these hoses refurbished? It’d be nice while I have things undone

 

Bosch strikes again! The $100 fuel pump does not come with the nuts for the electrical terminals!
I hope you noticed that the hot and ground side are different sized nuts. While the hot is the same size and pitch with, say the plastic nuts used for the plastic cover for the fuel pump plumbing the ground side is one size larger. This is to make sure I suppose the terminals are not reverse connected by mistake. Buying them at the hardware store is probably fine, I would take the pump with you to make sure the size/pitch is correct though.

Happy Sunday!

 

Yeah I recall the smaller wire can’t fit onto the larger terminal they did good to make sure you don’t mix them up. I think one is 6mm the other 7 or 8mm? Bosch doesn’t include them and the Dealer has them $5 per lol

I found a shop to take my hoses to, hopefully they can just crimp fresh rubber on the OE metal fittings

 

I wound up having a fuel hose made for my W201 earlier this year when a new one was NLA. I think your plan should work.

 

I took them both hoses, the metal fitting with the little arm is not supposed to rotate so one hose actually ended up being useless…they couldn’t replicate the rubber bends (elbow) but said it would be fine to use the non-cracked elbow. They sawed off the metal crimp that held the accumulator line, there is a nozzle within it that will securely hold the line if you put a clamp instead

Im going to keep the bad hose since it’s NLA I’m sure another shop might be able to refurb it

 

Can’t believe it guys!! I got everything back together and it started right up and didn’t quit or sputter while getting up to temp. I successfully drove it to the gas station and back!

 

Congrats! I just love happy endings.

 

This is great to hear! Now you get to enjoy the car a bit...

Cheers!

 

Well I am noticing one last symptom…at idle the rpm are increasing up and down from 6 to 10, car acts like it wants to drive itself forwards when if I shift into reverse or drive. Checking things out now….adjusted micro switch and throttle cable haven’t noticed it again yet

 

Have you sorted out all the vacuum leaks in and around the intake manifold?
First you have to decide if the engine management system is causing it or reacting to the root cause.
I would put a voltmeter on the IACV terminals as it is idling and let us know what you see.
How rhythmic is the surge? Random or if regular how frequent?

 

No I haven’t done a thorough vacuum leak check yet. It will usually start surging after I’ve driven a while, park and idle just before getting out.

This morning in low traffic I went on a test drive and it stalled when coming to a stop downhill. I was curious and can sometimes replicate it, rpm seems to occasionally drop below 500 coming to a stop then the engine cut out, but started right up immediately, I got it back home it was surging again hoping it’s just an air related issue.


I just remembered our Benzworld discussion on the same symptoms from May of last year, but happy to start fresh with the fuel system taken care of.

 

How likely is it that a loose valve cover have been the culprit? I found evidence of oil spray near some of my fuel injector ports. I retightened the valve cover to spec , the oil gauge quit jumping around, stays pegged as it should between 3 and 2, car seems to run slightly better and coming to a stop it’s staying around 700rpm. Will continue driving it to see how it acts

 

It's possible that a loose valve cover has allowed oil to get into places it shouldn't be getting into and the symptoms you're now experiencing are in response to that. Keep driving to see what it does and then let us know how it behaves.

 

I would say a loose valve cover causing idle issues, stalls etc. is not probable at all. The stalls like this are either electrical or vacuum problems on the intake side after the AFM plate.
Valve cover is neither electrical nor part of the intake (it is in front of the AFM plate).

Because your car is having a hard time regulating idle, it is most likely the stalls are associated with that. It could be independent but we will find out.
So first things first you need to stabilize your idle. Meaning your idle needs to be rock solid as long as your are not changing gears, etc. from park to neutral to drive.

If it is not stable, we need to start monitoring the voltage at your IACV.

See if your idle is solid/constant in neutral or park first.

I would second 190Efan's call on dirt/grime/oil on the intake side of things. A properly cared for M103 should have none of those in the IACV, AFM plate, throttle body, vacuum return from the valve cover, etc. Mine is at 207K mile now and all those areas are bone dry and I never had to fix anything to keep them clean either but not everyone is that fortunate. Mine were never cleaned either. Yes I know, I am surprised as well.

What I'm saying is your expectation should be completely dry components for these areas. And you should make sure your vacuum is sitting at around 17 inch-mercury (negative of course) in neutral gear with the AC off. Will be less with the car in gear/park.
That is the full scale of the economy gauge of pre-1991 cars. If you do not have one in your cluster I would recommend just buying one at your favorite parts store for less than $20 and connecting it temporarily at the intake. Better yet buy a mightyvac for maybe $45 that has a handpump as well so you can check for vacuum leaks of various components of your HVAC, central locking, etc. etc.

I'm sure we can diagnose your problem here but it may take some time and step by step diagnosis.

- Cheers!