190E (W201) 1982-1993: 190E 2.3, 190E 2.6, 190E 2.3-16, 190E 2.5-16, 190 D 2.2, 190 D 2.5, 190 D 2.5 TURBO, 190E 2.5-16 Evolution I, 190E 2.5-16 Evolution II

2.5 16v stalling

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Old 05-06-2022, 11:47 PM
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190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
I lost track. Did you ever get to measure your fuel pressures?
Old 05-07-2022, 12:03 AM
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W210 E55T
No. Couldn't get an attachment to the lower chamber.
I just put 10liters in
It ran fine when loaded and unloaded 2 times from flatbed trucks.
Ignition off
3-2=0
6-2=12.21
Ignition On
3-2=3.62
6-2=11.95
Engine on cold
3-2=6.83
6-2=13.60
Then stalls.
The pump is really noisy. Bet the filter or strainer is plugged.
Old 05-07-2022, 12:31 AM
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I undid the main hose front the strainer to the pump. Quite the flow came out then tapered I guess due the vacuum pressure. The residue in the catch pan doesn't look promising.
It's still on the flatbed so working on it there will be a challenge
Looks like it's running rich. But that wouldn't cause it to stall.
Attached Thumbnails 2.5 16v stalling-photo949.jpg   2.5 16v stalling-photo593.jpg   2.5 16v stalling-photo49.jpg  
Old 05-07-2022, 12:35 AM
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Pump should not be noisy. But your system pressure was normal a while back. You should also try and measure the control pressure.
No error code on the X11 port.
What is the coolant temp when it stalls?
Old 05-07-2022, 12:39 AM
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W210 E55T
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Old 05-07-2022, 04:12 AM
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Gees.
I wonder....
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Old 05-07-2022, 04:23 AM
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Strainer didn't look that bad.
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Old 05-07-2022, 02:44 PM
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1991 190E 2.3
Based on your pictures, it looks to me like you've got way too much crud running through your fuel system and that's why your car is not running properly. No car will run properly with that amount of crud in the fuel system. You need to do a complete flush of your fuel system to clean all of that crud out of there as I've suggested to you previously. Once you do that, then you can see where you're at. You're not going to get good measurements elsewhere with all of that crud running through your fuel system. I was always taught to never run a fuel injected car out of gas. If that's also what's happened, that won't help you either. Not only will your fuel injectors be dry and make the car hard to start, you're also straining your fuel pump by not having enough fuel in your gas tank to keep it covered and working properly so no wonder it's noisy. I was also taught to never buy gas when the tanker truck is filling up the gas station tank because it stirs up all of the crud at the bottom of the gas station tank. Looks like some of that crud has made it into your fuel system.
Old 05-07-2022, 04:29 PM
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I did clean the entire system. I pulled the tank 2Xs removed as much rust as I could with vinegar and sealed it with some stuff used for motorcycle tanks. That was last year. But true that tank was always low to empty. The specialist warned me that the pipes can also rust on these cars which appears to be the case here because the strainer wasn't so bad.
I ordered a new filter.
Old 05-07-2022, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rufrob
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That means the stall has nothing to do with emissions control but fuel delivery related. Like 190Efan mentioned you need to flush out the entire fuel system.
Also check the filter screen at the input port of the fuel distributor. That is your last defense and you need that to be clean before and after all the flushing.
Old 05-07-2022, 08:26 PM
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Also those pictures look like the crud is rust. That means even after you flush it, it may come back. You will have to rust proof the tank somehow if you have not done so already.
Old 05-08-2022, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rufrob
I did clean the entire system. I pulled the tank 2Xs removed as much rust as I could with vinegar and sealed it with some stuff used for motorcycle tanks. That was last year. But true that tank was always low to empty. The specialist warned me that the pipes can also rust on these cars which appears to be the case here because the strainer wasn't so bad.
I ordered a new filter.
I would suggest you clean it again. I would not use vinegar which can be very corrosive on its own or any product for motorcycle tanks which is not designed for your car. It's this crud that's plugging up your fuel system and preventing your car from running properly. You're going to need to replace everything in the fuel system that's rusted or the rust will keep coming back as Dolucassi correctly says and that will continue to plug up your new fuel filter until you eliminate the rust issue.
Old 05-08-2022, 06:46 PM
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Please remember I'm in Japan where access to aftermarket products and services is severely limited. If I could get the tank cleaned properly trust me I would. There are no rad/tank shops here. I used POR 15 on my 930 with great results. POR15 can't be used on the 190. The 190e specialist recommended I use that particular motorcycle tank sealer. So here we are.
I don't have an air compressor at home so all I can do is frequent filter changes until i can get it to a shop.
Old 05-09-2022, 12:43 PM
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1991 190E 2.3
Originally Posted by rufrob
Please remember I'm in Japan where access to aftermarket products and services is severely limited. If I could get the tank cleaned properly trust me I would. There are no rad/tank shops here. I used POR 15 on my 930 with great results. POR15 can't be used on the 190. The 190e specialist recommended I use that particular motorcycle tank sealer. So here we are.
I don't have an air compressor at home so all I can do is frequent filter changes until i can get it to a shop.
Thanks to the internet, automotive products from around the world are only a click away. There are many online automotive parts companies that advertise in the various MB magazines that ship their parts around the world. This should be a big help for you being able to get the parts you need. It takes some online research. I've had to do it for my W201.
Old 05-09-2022, 06:04 PM
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Parts and tools yes. Hazardous chemicals Not without a license or in bulk.
Old 05-10-2022, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rufrob
Parts and tools yes. Hazardous chemicals Not without a license or in bulk.
That's not always the case. You don't know if you don't ask. Your car won't run properly until this issue is resolved on a permanent basis.
Old 05-15-2022, 05:19 PM
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I installed a new filter but 1 of the pumps is still noisy so best flush the system again and install new pumps, strainer and filter.
I thought the PO installed new pumps and strainer but that is looking highly unlikely.
Old 05-16-2022, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by dolucasi
I lost track. Did you ever get to measure your fuel pressures?
This thread is super long and I didn't take the time to read it completely, so I may be repeating something already posted.
Had similar issue on 1986 2.3 16V.

After replacing and adjusting various things for 2 years, brought the car to https://www.precisionautocenter.net/ . Felipe checked car and determined the throttle body was the issue. He sourced one, put it in and the car starts and runs perfectly.
Old 05-16-2022, 11:09 AM
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So what was wrong with the throttle body and how many miles on the car when it was replaced Frank?
Old 05-16-2022, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by rufrob
I installed a new filter but 1 of the pumps is still noisy so best flush the system again and install new pumps, strainer and filter.
I thought the PO installed new pumps and strainer but that is looking highly unlikely.
This is a good plan. It sure looks like one of the fuel pumps is burned out which explains why it's noisy. I just worry that until you finally get all of the crud flushed out, that might damage your new fuel pumps, strainer and filter.
Old 05-16-2022, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by fcuratola
This thread is super long and I didn't take the time to read it completely, so I may be repeating something already posted.
Had similar issue on 1986 2.3 16V.

After replacing and adjusting various things for 2 years, brought the car to https://www.precisionautocenter.net/ . Felipe checked car and determined the throttle body was the issue. He sourced one, put it in and the car starts and runs perfectly.
Maybe. The car in this thread suffers from quite a bit of rust that's gotten into the fuel system and that's causing all kinds of trouble. I guess that might also affect the throttle body.
Old 05-29-2022, 02:37 AM
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Paint done. Still waiting for new pumps
Attached Thumbnails 2.5 16v stalling-photo323.jpg   2.5 16v stalling-photo874.jpg   2.5 16v stalling-photo822.jpg   2.5 16v stalling-photo25.jpg   2.5 16v stalling-photo177.jpg  

2.5 16v stalling-photo675.jpg  
Old 05-30-2022, 12:45 AM
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Paint looks good from here! Hopefully you can solve the engine running issues soon...
Old 05-30-2022, 01:21 AM
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Now it starts idles and revs smoothly. But one of the FPs is noisy and it had very little fuel in it. waiting for the new pumps to arrive and I already have a new tank strainer. Just want to do them all at the same time. A friend recommend I check the fuel pipes in the engine bay for rust. That's where he found rust on his 380SL.
Old 05-30-2022, 11:59 AM
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I suspect what happens when a car sits for months or years is that the humidity/water in the system separates from the fuel. This is when the parts of the system that is rust prone is in trouble.
My car never sat for more than a week or two and has been a daily driver for 33 years. Even so, I swapped in a spare accumulator when I changed the fuel filter a year or two ago and there was water in the return rubber hose between the accumulator and the tank. There is no flow there and it is a low point in the fuel system. Just an example of what happens with sitting fuel.

Hoping you have success in cleaning up the fuel system.

-Cheers!


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