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Hello,
Is it possible to activate the magnetic disc from compressor, simply removing the AC relay and connect some wires (as 15 to 87 in the fuel relay)?
Or is it necessary to work underneath and directly put positive on the magnetic disc?
I've tried to connect both the two wires from the pressostat but it didn't work.
Or maybe conect at the pressostat AND at the A/C relay?
I understand in US to use always the AC but, in my country and not as daily, many AC from classic cars are failed.
It’s just to save time to know if the compressor/magnetic disc is failed or not.
if I can activate just a few seconds by removing the relay, I’ll test to refill the gas.
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
Now I understand. Yes from non-usage the gaskets in an AC system can indeed dry up and fail. That is why I always turn on the AC or activate the interior defogger once in a while, maybe once every 3 months in the winter. Summer gets enough usage here.
I do not have the answer to your question, Is it an R12 or has it been converted to R134? Here in the US when the conversion is done a sticker is put on the car so the future owners know. I think the fill coupling is also different.
If it is R134, I would just fill it and see what happens. I think they are $50 here a can, not sure about pricing in Europe. I'm sure the electrical part and such are still in working order as that is the less like part to break from not enough usage.
System was retrofitted with R-134a a few years ago (don't know when).
On the following diagram, to test the electromagnetic clutch, where have I to put (+)?
It's also possible directly on the compressor where there are 3 wires (BU/RD - BU/GN - BU/YL).
But which one activate the clutch? Or it is the two cables underneath?
Finally, on this picture the desiccant cartridge, there are two sensors. Two for the pressure? Or one pressure and other one temperature?
Sorry for all these questions but not used with the AC...
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
From your Klima relay diagram, it looks like you have to supply 12V to pin 7 of the clima relay to activate the compressor.
But I would first put refrigerant in before you do any work. Not sure if a compressor would be damaged if it is bone dry.
Sorry I know very little about AC, thus take what I say with caution.
Is the A/C currently working or not? You never want to run your A/C without refrigerant. My engineer father always taught me to run the A/C for 10 minutes at a time during the winter to keep everything properly lubricated. It's better that your car is R134a as freon for R12 is all but impossible to find now.
From your Klima relay diagram, it looks like you have to supply 12V to pin 7 of the clima relay to activate the compressor.
But I would first put refrigerant in before you do any work. Not sure if a compressor would be damaged if it is bone dry.
.
Thanks, it's also what I'm thinking because I've found another diagram which is more logical for me.
It's just to test the clutch, no need the motor is turning on.
Is the A/C currently working or not? You never want to run your A/C without refrigerant. My engineer father always taught me to run the A/C for 10 minutes at a time during the winter to keep everything properly lubricated. It's better that your car is R134a as freon for R12 is all but impossible to find now.
No, the A/C is not working.
Yes, I know, it's just to test first the clutch.
If it's good, I'll investigate about the fluid
No, the A/C is not working.
Yes, I know, it's just to test first the clutch.
If it's good, I'll investigate about the fluid
I think at this point, you're better off adding the R134a and then turning on the A/C to see what is working. The compressor just might be working but blowing hot air or maybe nothing might be working. I think this is the easiest way to determine this. You don't want to turn on your A/C without any R134a in it because you might do some really serious and expensive damage to your A/C.
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
BTW, you can not keep an AC running with the wild idle oscillations and near stalls anyway. The KLIMA relay has a speed sensor input.
Once the relay trips the compressor will not come on again until the engine is off and re-started.
I would put off the AC diagnosis till after you fix the running/idle issues.
BTW, you can not keep an AC running with the wild idle oscillations and near stalls anyway. The KLIMA relay has a speed sensor input.
Once the relay trips the compressor will not come on again until the engine is off and re-started.
I would put off the AC diagnosis till after you fix the running/idle issues.
Indeed but it’s not the same car. This one is a 2.3
During some seconds, testing with positive in connector #3 on the compressor, here is the problem: electromagnetic clutch is good but disassembled from the compressor…. (Watch video)
Other thing, is the compressor easy to rotate by hand because mine is hard/difficult?
Yes, I'm waiting for the quote (new compressor and fluid).
Because it seems that impossible to have clutch separate from compressor.
Maybe to Mercedes, I will ask them
It sounds pretty nasty so I agree with Dolucassi. I also think you're better off sticking with MB parts for this if they're still available. I've only ever had to add freon to my A/C a couple of times otherwise I've had no A/C trouble with my W201.
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