W211 - Speaker only upgrade on Harmon Kardon system
#51
Thanks! I will be installing a 2/4 ohm, 5 channel amp: 1 for each door and 1 for the subwoofer, and also a preamp to get custom equilization. Although mine is not HK but Bose, I will give it a try to the OEM speakers with the new amp and, if not satisfied, will replace them. I have had good experience in the past with 3-way 6.5's, combined with 6x9's or subs. I have installed all this by myself a hundred times in every Honda and Toyota I have had before. This is my first MB and it is absolutely another animal. It is frustrating that I have been 6 months trying to do this, have taken the car to 5 different car audio experts and when they take a look at the radio and realize it is optic fiber nobody wants or knows how to work on it. But it is simple and clean once you know the wiring. I will be working on this during the next few days (or weeks?); I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again!
- Absolutely no electrical problems whatsoever
- The amp I installed is 2ohm/4ohm compatible. OEM speakers are 2ohm hence I selected a compatible amp since I went back to OEM speakers. I intend to replace OEM speakers with component speakers in the new year. Your amp needs to be compatible with installed speakers. You could use 4ohm compatible amp if you intend to replace OEM speakers with 4ohm ones.
- 3-way speakers will work fine but I have no experience with 3-way 6.5" round speakers.
- As enclosed sub would be the easiest option to install and it will give you a nice thump.
- The amp I installed is 2ohm/4ohm compatible. OEM speakers are 2ohm hence I selected a compatible amp since I went back to OEM speakers. I intend to replace OEM speakers with component speakers in the new year. Your amp needs to be compatible with installed speakers. You could use 4ohm compatible amp if you intend to replace OEM speakers with 4ohm ones.
- 3-way speakers will work fine but I have no experience with 3-way 6.5" round speakers.
- As enclosed sub would be the easiest option to install and it will give you a nice thump.
#52
I am sorry that I did not update this before, but I got caught in several issues at work tah have kept me busy. I completed the project and it sounds very good. The StarTek info website gave me the clor an polarity codes and they matched perfectly to what it was in the car. Instead of cutting the wires coming out form the AGW where you did it, I cut them maybe a foot ahead below the power trunk mechanism; there was more space to work there and I installed connectors as you did. The only difference to your job was that since I installed a 5 channel amp, it was larger and did not fit behing the navigation unit , so I put it under the rear deck. I got a piece of cloth almost identical to the trunk factory cloth and covered it. Beisdes that, I put a 10" Bazooka sub at the far end inside the trunk. After al this, voila!!!, it sounds very very good. I think it might sound better with a Cleansweep sound processor but I am not sure if it worths the difference in sound (do you have installed one of these? or know someone that have installed it? did it make a difference?). I do not want to get any cables to the cabin and saw a Rockford Fostage that you may control via Bluetooth with your laptop, but it is very pricy ($600). The beauty thing about all this is that it is fully reversable, it is working ok with the factory head unit and speakers (as you said, do not know how long they will stand the abuse but they are handling it ok right now), and I saved over $200 on the instalation doing it myself. Thanks for all your tips.
#53
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I am sorry that I did not update this before, but I got caught in several issues at work tah have kept me busy. I completed the project and it sounds very good. The StarTek info website gave me the clor an polarity codes and they matched perfectly to what it was in the car. Instead of cutting the wires coming out form the AGW where you did it, I cut them maybe a foot ahead below the power trunk mechanism; there was more space to work there and I installed connectors as you did. The only difference to your job was that since I installed a 5 channel amp, it was larger and did not fit behing the navigation unit , so I put it under the rear deck. I got a piece of cloth almost identical to the trunk factory cloth and covered it. Beisdes that, I put a 10" Bazooka sub at the far end inside the trunk. After al this, voila!!!, it sounds very very good. I think it might sound better with a Cleansweep sound processor but I am not sure if it worths the difference in sound (do you have installed one of these? or know someone that have installed it? did it make a difference?). I do not want to get any cables to the cabin and saw a Rockford Fostage that you may control via Bluetooth with your laptop, but it is very pricy ($600). The beauty thing about all this is that it is fully reversable, it is working ok with the factory head unit and speakers (as you said, do not know how long they will stand the abuse but they are handling it ok right now), and I saved over $200 on the instalation doing it myself. Thanks for all your tips.
Last edited by pinebaron; 02-01-2010 at 07:58 PM.
#54
Thanks my friend. By the way, did you replace the pads yourself? or did you take it to a MB technician? I took advantage of the time I paid at StarTek Info to check on how to change pads, and the first step is to disable the brake system using the computer. I had no clue about how to disable that system without the scanner. As I told at sometime before, I had always did these things myself but the MB is quite different in everything.
#55
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Thanks my friend. By the way, did you replace the pads yourself? or did you take it to a MB technician? I took advantage of the time I paid at StarTek Info to check on how to change pads, and the first step is to disable the brake system using the computer. I had no clue about how to disable that system without the scanner. As I told at sometime before, I had always did these things myself but the MB is quite different in everything.
#56
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2003 E 320, 2005 CLK 320
Hello, I'm doing my own install on my 2003 E320. I am installing an Pioneer AVH 4200 and an MB Quart Amp 60rmsx4 , keeping the speakers and sub stock for now. I will power the fronts and bridge channel 3 and 4 for the sub. My question is, what is the color wire codes for the speakers leading to the Front Speakers and Subs?
Thanks
Christian
Thanks
Christian
#57
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Hello, I'm doing my own install on my 2003 E320. I am installing an Pioneer AVH 4200 and an MB Quart Amp 60rmsx4 , keeping the speakers and sub stock for now. I will power the fronts and bridge channel 3 and 4 for the sub. My question is, what is the color wire codes for the speakers leading to the Front Speakers and Subs?
Thanks
Christian
Thanks
Christian
#58
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2003 E 320, 2005 CLK 320
Thanks Pinebaron / Zayasw, you guys inspired me to upgrade my system DIY. I went a step further and changed my head unit. See this link:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...h-4200dvd.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...h-4200dvd.html
#59
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Thanks Pinebaron / Zayasw, you guys inspired me to upgrade my system DIY. I went a step further and changed my head unit. See this link:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...h-4200dvd.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...h-4200dvd.html
#60
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2003 E 320, 2005 CLK 320
#61
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OEM speakers (from what I've seen in my vehicle) only use a high pass capacitor on the tweeter. I used Boston Acoustics Pro60 SE component speakers for the rears after I blew the OEMs. All others are still OEM.
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2003 E 320, 2005 CLK 320
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2003 E 320, 2005 CLK 320
The weird thing is, I saw the tweeter with 4ohms. I keep reading that the speakers are 2ohms. I can only guess that the stock woofer is also 4ohms, and that they are wired in parallel to produce 2ohms right? Pinebaron, can you confirm this when you pulled out the front woofer?
The reason I'm shopping for the tweeter only is because I notice crackling noise on my front left tweeter only. The woofers, like you I will keep because I have no problem with their sound. Also, I have been researching about DIYmobileaudio.com and you can select each component of drivers to match your needs. You can get raw drivers from Scanspeak, Vifa, Dayton, Peerless, and Seas for less than a hundred bucks. These drivers are used in audiophile speaker systems that cost over a thousand dollars a pair. Scanspeak I believe make the drivers for Alpine F1 Status witch are over $1200 a pair.
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2003 E 320, 2005 CLK 320
The weird thing is, I saw the tweeter with 4ohms. I keep reading that the speakers are 2ohms. I can only guess that the stock woofer is also 4ohms, and that they are wired in parallel to produce 2ohms right? Pinebaron, can you confirm this when you pulled out the front woofer?
The reason I'm shopping for the tweeter only is because I notice crackling noise on my front left tweeter only. The woofers, like you I will keep because I have no problem with their sound. Also, I have been researching about DIYmobileaudio.com and you can select each component of drivers to match your needs. You can get raw drivers from Scanspeak, Vifa, Dayton, Peerless, and Seas for less than a hundred bucks. These drivers are used in audiophile speaker systems that cost over a thousand dollars a pair. Scanspeak I believe make the drivers for Alpine F1 Status witch are over $1200 a pair.
#66
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'14 F15 M, '06 E55, '20 Highlander, '18 M550
Happy 4th of July! Anyways, I had some time yesterday to check out the tweeters. I pulled out the little triangular cover and saw the tweeters. I did see the capacitor, and you are completely right that it doesnt have a crossover.
The weird thing is, I saw the tweeter with 4ohms. I keep reading that the speakers are 2ohms. I can only guess that the stock woofer is also 4ohms, and that they are wired in parallel to produce 2ohms right? Pinebaron, can you confirm this when you pulled out the front woofer?
The reason I'm shopping for the tweeter only is because I notice crackling noise on my front left tweeter only. The woofers, like you I will keep because I have no problem with their sound. Also, I have been researching about DIYmobileaudio.com and you can select each component of drivers to match your needs. You can get raw drivers from Scanspeak, Vifa, Dayton, Peerless, and Seas for less than a hundred bucks. These drivers are used in audiophile speaker systems that cost over a thousand dollars a pair. Scanspeak I believe make the drivers for Alpine F1 Status witch are over $1200 a pair.
The weird thing is, I saw the tweeter with 4ohms. I keep reading that the speakers are 2ohms. I can only guess that the stock woofer is also 4ohms, and that they are wired in parallel to produce 2ohms right? Pinebaron, can you confirm this when you pulled out the front woofer?
The reason I'm shopping for the tweeter only is because I notice crackling noise on my front left tweeter only. The woofers, like you I will keep because I have no problem with their sound. Also, I have been researching about DIYmobileaudio.com and you can select each component of drivers to match your needs. You can get raw drivers from Scanspeak, Vifa, Dayton, Peerless, and Seas for less than a hundred bucks. These drivers are used in audiophile speaker systems that cost over a thousand dollars a pair. Scanspeak I believe make the drivers for Alpine F1 Status witch are over $1200 a pair.
In regards to what is found in the DIY route .. many of these drivers are fairly good and inexpensive, BUT it is a lengthy trial and error voyage. Even when 'on paper' parameters line up, it still might not be a suitable driver for YOU. Also mind you the majority of DIY'ers ( myself included both personally and professionally) using this method are are actively processed where tuning is a breeze. With the OE configuration you are limited to the T/A and passbands already preselected.
Overall you may get lucky and find something that works for you, alternatively and more common your search and labor could take more time than anticipated.
#67
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2003 E 320, 2005 CLK 320
I do not recall how it is wired, but may also be based on which level of audio. My drivers are all laying around in a box somewhere so I can check when I have some free time.
In regards to what is found in the DIY route .. many of these drivers are fairly good and inexpensive, BUT it is a lengthy trial and error voyage. Even when 'on paper' parameters line up, it still might not be a suitable driver for YOU. Also mind you the majority of DIY'ers ( myself included both personally and professionally) using this method are are actively processed where tuning is a breeze. With the OE configuration you are limited to the T/A and passbands already preselected.
Overall you may get lucky and find something that works for you, alternatively and more common your search and labor could take more time than anticipated.
In regards to what is found in the DIY route .. many of these drivers are fairly good and inexpensive, BUT it is a lengthy trial and error voyage. Even when 'on paper' parameters line up, it still might not be a suitable driver for YOU. Also mind you the majority of DIY'ers ( myself included both personally and professionally) using this method are are actively processed where tuning is a breeze. With the OE configuration you are limited to the T/A and passbands already preselected.
Overall you may get lucky and find something that works for you, alternatively and more common your search and labor could take more time than anticipated.
#68
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Front and rear door speakers are 2ohms each; I still have the old speakers for reference.
#69
Confirmation
Just to confirm- will the Hertz speaker fit the W211 model? (given your suggestion below)
emilner, for a center speaker that fits with no problems, check out the Hertz HL70.4, it has to be the .4 model though as it is the new version. i just used it in a 5.1 system with a separate tweeter, and I can only say phenomenal![/quote]
emilner, for a center speaker that fits with no problems, check out the Hertz HL70.4, it has to be the .4 model though as it is the new version. i just used it in a 5.1 system with a separate tweeter, and I can only say phenomenal![/quote]
#70
Success and no money spent!
I got a second hand 2006 E350 in July. H-K/Logic7/Command (NTG1). After driving Volvo S80 with Dynaudio Premium Sound, MB was huge disappointment. It just sounded wrong.
After 6 months of trying various things, and being ready to return the car or rip the whole audio out and have something decent insalled, (because I am an audio purist and I have no fun driving a car with substandard sound), last week I fixed it.
As I mentioned, i am a purist. All virtual surround systems (e.g. Dolby PLII, etc) always soudned wrong to me nd first thing to do would be to switch them off. But MB sounded better (although still horrible) with Logic 7 on. i could not understand why. And then I realised that even with Logic 7 off, there was some sound coming out of central speaker and the to satellites next to the subwoofer. This was against the logic (at least my logic). Mid-rage mixed into a central channel? I thought this might explain the horrible flat sound, no power, and lack of ability to localise sounds.
So the first thing was to disconnect the central speaker. What a change! All of a sudden, things were clear, localizable and powerful. There was however still a bit of funny high-pitch echo coming from behind. Guess what I did - disconnected the satellites. Now it sounds excellent - very close to what I was used to on the Volvo. Bass is bass, and drums sound like drums, and even violin sounds like violin on classical music. Of course Logic 7 is off (when I turn it on it turns the sound into flat plastic bass and treble, because middles cannot melt into the central anymore).
So I saved myself a good couple of $000s by switching off and disconnecting all pieces of Logic7. The amp, good set of speakers, and no fiddling with what is a good stereo recording is all I need.
I would however appreciate a real surround system that can play DVD-A or SACD.
My audio rules for home and car are:
Down with mp3!!!
Down with virtual surround!!!
Long live proper speakers!!!
And i do not care if you think otherwise.
Joyjay
After 6 months of trying various things, and being ready to return the car or rip the whole audio out and have something decent insalled, (because I am an audio purist and I have no fun driving a car with substandard sound), last week I fixed it.
As I mentioned, i am a purist. All virtual surround systems (e.g. Dolby PLII, etc) always soudned wrong to me nd first thing to do would be to switch them off. But MB sounded better (although still horrible) with Logic 7 on. i could not understand why. And then I realised that even with Logic 7 off, there was some sound coming out of central speaker and the to satellites next to the subwoofer. This was against the logic (at least my logic). Mid-rage mixed into a central channel? I thought this might explain the horrible flat sound, no power, and lack of ability to localise sounds.
So the first thing was to disconnect the central speaker. What a change! All of a sudden, things were clear, localizable and powerful. There was however still a bit of funny high-pitch echo coming from behind. Guess what I did - disconnected the satellites. Now it sounds excellent - very close to what I was used to on the Volvo. Bass is bass, and drums sound like drums, and even violin sounds like violin on classical music. Of course Logic 7 is off (when I turn it on it turns the sound into flat plastic bass and treble, because middles cannot melt into the central anymore).
So I saved myself a good couple of $000s by switching off and disconnecting all pieces of Logic7. The amp, good set of speakers, and no fiddling with what is a good stereo recording is all I need.
I would however appreciate a real surround system that can play DVD-A or SACD.
My audio rules for home and car are:
Down with mp3!!!
Down with virtual surround!!!
Long live proper speakers!!!
And i do not care if you think otherwise.
Joyjay
#71
Amp Install
Upgrade is done for now and I will pause a while. There is absolutely no physically visible sign of an upgrade. No wires, no subs, controllers nothing; everything is put away next to NAV in the rear (see photo prior to beginning project and one when I was close to done). The only down side is everything needs to be preadjusted but I don't expect to change settings until and if I replace door speakers.
In the meantime, I will listen to the new level of audio, appreciate/critique quality of sound from OEM speakers and decide if I should upgrade door speakers. I don't really need more base but for those of you who cannot live without extreme base, you should just get an amp and initially drive OEM subwoofer to establish its capacity and durability. 10" subs are readily available.
I've taken loads of pictures but need to sequence them properly, add a little narrative prior to publishing them on my web site; give me a few days.
In the meantime, I will listen to the new level of audio, appreciate/critique quality of sound from OEM speakers and decide if I should upgrade door speakers. I don't really need more base but for those of you who cannot live without extreme base, you should just get an amp and initially drive OEM subwoofer to establish its capacity and durability. 10" subs are readily available.
I've taken loads of pictures but need to sequence them properly, add a little narrative prior to publishing them on my web site; give me a few days.
#72
Member
Do you have an active link to your pictures. I'm looking to install a new amp to bypass the Harmon Kardon MOST system. I am keeping factory speakers but I replaced the sub and sub amp and replaced the head unit. I'm looking to find the termination of the speaker wires in the trunk.
#73
http://www.systembiz.com/W211Speaker...lifierinstall/
Let me know if you have any questions and I will explain or add more pictures to the site.
Let me know if you have any questions and I will explain or add more pictures to the site.
#75
Hey there,
I've been looking into the whole topic and I'm loving this project so much, I'm actually looking into doing a similar project of my own, however, I don't have the HK sound system in my car, I do have the second option however, the "premium" sound system, in short, I only lack the parcel shelf speakers and subwoofer but everything else is there, including the center speaker in the dashboard. Everything is also driven by an amplifier which is hidden under the piece of plastic in the trunk area near the backseats.
Would it be still possible for me to simply throw in another aftermarket amplifier and rewire the existing sound system to said amp? Or would that be an really bad idea?
I'm not sure if the non hk "premium" speakers are far worse or how much they can handle or if it's even remotely possible, quite new to this I must say, although I have been adding options and modifications to my W211 with success so far.
Would love to hear from you guys, any information is appreciated!
I've been looking into the whole topic and I'm loving this project so much, I'm actually looking into doing a similar project of my own, however, I don't have the HK sound system in my car, I do have the second option however, the "premium" sound system, in short, I only lack the parcel shelf speakers and subwoofer but everything else is there, including the center speaker in the dashboard. Everything is also driven by an amplifier which is hidden under the piece of plastic in the trunk area near the backseats.
Would it be still possible for me to simply throw in another aftermarket amplifier and rewire the existing sound system to said amp? Or would that be an really bad idea?
I'm not sure if the non hk "premium" speakers are far worse or how much they can handle or if it's even remotely possible, quite new to this I must say, although I have been adding options and modifications to my W211 with success so far.
Would love to hear from you guys, any information is appreciated!