Aftermarket Speaker and Amplifier install pictures
First off the center speaker is blown/rattles. I'm thinking about replacing it with 2 mid range 4ohm speakers wired together so the resistance is 2ohm. (read this is possible on the internet) I might put these speakers above the feet of driver and passenger. The current system gives the center channel too much power anyway so I'm hoping this will make the system sounds louder.
I would like to add an AMP but I keep reading that I will blow my speakers if I try to run a 4 ohm AMP. Ideas for imporving without spending 2k are greatly appreciated.
run a 4ohm amp to new speakers and have that connected to your original deck via hi/lo converter. you will get a more powered set of speakers and it wont kill your wallet.




First off the center speaker is blown/rattles. I'm thinking about replacing it with 2 mid range 4ohm speakers wired together so the resistance is 2ohm. (read this is possible on the internet) I might put these speakers above the feet of driver and passenger. The current system gives the center channel too much power anyway so I'm hoping this will make the system sounds louder.
I would like to add an AMP but I keep reading that I will blow my speakers if I try to run a 4 ohm AMP. Ideas for imporving without spending 2k are greatly appreciated.
Your center speaker may (or may not) be a dual coil speaker; one easy option may be to replace it with another OEM speaker which will get rid of rattles.
For more overall sound from doors, follow my example or use a 5 channel amp if you intend to power the sub but a new sub may be required. Look what another member in this thread has done.
Keep it simple and manageable:
1. Replace center speaker first; why bother with more wiring but do what you feel is best for you.
2. Remove and examine a door speaker component set to determine if these can handle more power.
3. If #2 above fails then think about two sets of component speakers, 4ohm sets will do and a 4ohm 4 channel amp (5 channel if installing new sub, or 4 channel + 1 single channel for sub). Don't compromise on quality.




Basically you need to remove two torx screws located in the door handle area and another one or two located in the door lock area. Also disengage the tweeter housing which is clipped on to the door panel.
Let me know if you located the mercedes benz door panel removal pdf.
Vim
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
All that was preventing the door panel from being disconnected completely was the manual lock pull/knob next to the window. This knob connects to the inner door assembly via a heavy metal wire and I didn't want to break anything so I had to give up.
Anyone know how to disconnect this?




All that was preventing the door panel from being disconnected completely was the manual lock pull/knob next to the window. This knob connects to the inner door assembly via a heavy metal wire and I didn't want to break anything so I had to give up.
Anyone know how to disconnect this?
But there is also a metal rod, running vertically through the door panel, which has the lock/unlock indicator knob on top of it.
Do you know how this detaches?




But there is also a metal rod, running vertically through the door panel, which has the lock/unlock indicator knob on top of it.
Do you know how this detaches?








do you think taking an amplified signal from the amp (audio gateway) that is processed already is going to get clean via a crossover network? what freakin koolaid you drink? maybe you should let the adults converse...




do you think taking an amplified signal from the amp (audio gateway) that is processed already is going to get clean via a crossover network? what freakin koolaid you drink? maybe you should let the adults converse...





