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Audio System Upgrade (Keeping Comand Headunit)

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Old 03-09-2010, 04:52 PM
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2006 CLS55, 2005 Boxster-S
Audio System Upgrade (Keeping Comand Headunit)

Hey Fellas,

I was scouring the past threads to see what I can do to upgrade the stock HK system in my CLS55 without changing the head unit. I only have a basic understanding of audio components and some brand name recognition so I figured I'd post here in the Audio / Electronics section to elicit some opinions. I noticed a lot of folks in this forum have gone with Reus with various results and opinions. I kind of wanted to run my own setup instead of going with Reus so that I could spend more on the components as opposed to their proprietary parts and installation process. I wanted to keep the system relatively simple (dropping in some speakers into existing ports; no major cutting / drilling) with a budget of $2k-$2,500 inclusive of installation. My music tastes vary across different genres but I do want a sub box that can handle low bass tones that will rock the interior (used to run two JL 12s back in the days and probably don't need that much anymore) A local store in my area quoted me the following:

Amplifier
ARC Audio KS900.6 - $599 (This is a 6 channel amp at 550 watt. Power output RMS @ 4 ohms: 4 x 60 watts. Power output RMS @ 2 ohms: 4 x 100 watts. Should i be running a dedicated amp for the sub?)

Front Speakers
Hertz HSK165.4 - $399 (Are there any comparable speakers that are cheaper?)

Rear Speakers
Hertz ESk 165 - $209

Processors
Arc SRI - $129
Arc KEQ5 - $129 (May prefer to change to an equalizer with display and presets; any recommendations here?)

Subwoofer
Image Dynamic IDQ12D2 - $229 (an enclosed box with one 12")

Total on parts = 1694. With install should be about $2K

Are there any components that i'm missing here that i need to ask about? (i.e. Hi low converter, battery capacitor, cooling fans, etc). Do you guys think this is a decent set up for the price and my needs? I plan on going to their sound room but it always sounds so different after it's actually installed in your car. Any pointers, recommendations or opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

- TZ
Old 03-09-2010, 05:50 PM
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...a panty dropper...
I run a JL W7 8in and it gives me all the hard hitting bass I need and has GREAT low bass tones. JL is the way to go IMO for subs. You should run a bigger amp if your trying to run it to all speakers and the sub because that one wont be able to give you the power to run the sub and the speakers if you plan on doing it correctly.
Old 03-09-2010, 09:59 PM
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Thank BBB,

That's what i figured as well. I'll look into the JL and run a seperate mono amp for the sub.
Old 03-09-2010, 11:05 PM
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Those Hertz speakers can handle alot more power than 60 watts RMS. You may want a bigger amp to drive them in all 4 doors. Another option might be the alpine SPX series speakers.

As far as processors, I'm using an Alpine PXE-H650. Easy setup using a laptop and the provided microphone to take measurements in different spots in the cabin.

Last edited by nJuDunno; 03-09-2010 at 11:13 PM.
Old 03-10-2010, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by BigBodyBenzC240
I run a JL W7 8in and it gives me all the hard hitting bass I need and has GREAT low bass tones. JL is the way to go IMO for subs. You should run a bigger amp if your trying to run it to all speakers and the sub because that one wont be able to give you the power to run the sub and the speakers if you plan on doing it correctly.
I am getting a JL 10" installed and an Alpine Amp...question is should i have the sub in a sealed box in the trunk or run it open air in the rear deck, replacing factory sub?
Old 03-10-2010, 01:11 PM
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Thanks Nju,

I'm gathering that I do need more power to the system in order to run efficiently. Probably gonna run 500 watt to the sub and more watts for the amp running interior speakers. I've talked to another local shop and they tell me that a clean system would end up costing double $4000-$4500 and that I would be spending $1600-$2000 to install the sub and amp alone. I'll probably start there and work my way in. For those of you who are in the same boat as I am - I found a recent post from NateDawg that did an install for his E63 and it looks super clean and has the basic setup I'll probably end up with.

https://mbworld.org/forums/audio-ele...o-install.html

Another post I found that gave me some tips from AMGfan for an SL65 (may not apply to us 4 door guys that want to keep the stock HU)

https://mbworld.org/forums/sl55-amg-...de-thread.html
Old 03-10-2010, 01:51 PM
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...a panty dropper...
Originally Posted by CJ_E350
I am getting a JL 10" installed and an Alpine Amp...question is should i have the sub in a sealed box in the trunk or run it open air in the rear deck, replacing factory sub?
What model JL? Put it in the trunk because the factory sub was smaller and less powerful so you will get vibration and also possibly have to modify for fitment. I have mine in a box right behind the rear armrest facing into the cabin with a part of the plastic cut out of the armrest so the bass will travel through. Its a great setup but its all up to you and how much your looking to spend.
Old 03-13-2010, 05:54 AM
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well if you have the patience for budgeting it out look at the audison bit1 and the lrx5.1k on the new 6 1/2 hi energy hertz separates... also the new hi energy woofers are fantastic...
Old 03-14-2010, 05:43 PM
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What are you using to interface with the MOST ring? Are you leaving the factory amp in place for that and using a line out converter or is there something else? I would love to upgrade my HK system but I'm not sure how to go about getting a good input for the amp.
Old 03-14-2010, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jbondox
well if you have the patience for budgeting it out look at the audison bit1 and the lrx5.1k on the new 6 1/2 hi energy hertz separates... also the new hi energy woofers are fantastic...

Hey Jbondox,

Thanks for the input. I checked out the audison bit1 and love the presets; I'll definitely look in to getting it. Would the lrx5.1x be enough watts to run 2 10" sub or 2 12"?

Last edited by tzenri; 03-14-2010 at 11:15 PM.
Old 03-14-2010, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 91RS
What are you using to interface with the MOST ring? Are you leaving the factory amp in place for that and using a line out converter or is there something else? I would love to upgrade my HK system but I'm not sure how to go about getting a good input for the amp.
Hey 91RS,

I was told by an installer that I would need to keep the factory amp in place and that a processor would come behind it. I'll keep you posted on the build once I get started so i can let you know what works.
Old 03-15-2010, 07:03 AM
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Yeah, that seems like the only way with parts available now. I wish there was a line out converter for the MOST system, I found one for the older system.
Old 03-15-2010, 11:33 PM
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that amp is more than enough to run a pair of subwoofers
Old 03-15-2010, 11:34 PM
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Also mobridge is working on the interface for the most ring that will send an optical out to the Audison bit1
Old 03-16-2010, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jbondox
Also mobridge is working on the interface for the most ring that will send an optical out to the Audison bit1
Yeah, I found that through my research last night. I don't know if I want to spend that much money though! I was expecting a $1k tops, but the mObridge DA1000 is $600 (and is available for purchase) and I don't know a price of the Bit One yet, but I imagine it's at least the same as the DA1000. Then I should probably get a better amp and then I'll probably need a second amp and some more speakers to keep the surround sound and I suppose it's about time to get a crossover and run the tweeters too (or does a processor rid the need of a crossover??).
Old 07-09-2010, 01:04 PM
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Ride Rocks!

So I got my car back today and it absolutely rocks!! For those that are interested in maximizing your audio potential read the following:

I had the stock sub removed and had 2 12" JLW3 installed in a non ported box powered by a 750 watt JL HD amp mounted to the rear deck. The box sits right behind the rear seat and I'm still able to access the battery and spare tire with no modifications to the floor board. Sound deadening was installed on the rear deck, trunk and license plate frame. I also swapped out the center speaker and the front stage sounds excellent now. As for the subs I think the 2 12s were a bit much. I definitely enjoy feeling the subs but for increased musicality I think 2 10s would have a been better choice. If I max out the bass knob the 12s overpower the front stage and rattles the entire cabin. The bass knob was installed off the dynamic seat control for accessibility; very ergonomic - recommended by a forum member. You should be able to accomplish all of this for a little over $1,500. The only other items I may add would be complete sound deadening of the front doors and swapping out the tweeters. If I could swap out the front door mids I'd probably do that too, however, my installer informs me that the stock amp setup will not take after market speakers since they are (or aren't?) full range. Basically requires a processor and additional amp to make a noticeable difference. For those of you who were looking to gain a lot of sound without going all out this is definitely the way to go.

Hope this helps anyone that is unhappy with the stock HK system. I originally posted this in the CLS55 section and it won't allow for duplicated pics.

Go to this link if interested in seeing them: https://mbworld.org/forums/cls55-amg...-headunit.html

Last edited by tzenri; 07-09-2010 at 01:14 PM.
Old 07-13-2010, 01:52 PM
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W204 C180 / W176 A45
I've been looking into upgrading the stock audio 20 system with something better. There have been several questions asked here that I've already come across in my research.

1. JL subs aren't made to be run free air. Avoid installing on the back dash.
2. Integrating into the MOST ring in a W204 is a lot more troublesome that other vehicles. MoBridge and Motus Labs are working on it, but neither have a solution yet.
3. If you're looking to get a factory signal from the speakers and turn it into a clean signal that can be fed into an amp here are some options. JL Audio Clean Sweep. (Cheapest option), Audison Bit One and JBL MS-8. The latter two have a lot of processing, if you have little experience tuning car audio systems the MS-8 is a better option.
4. The number of subs you choose to install is a personal choice. I've been using a singe 10 JL W6 for years and it's been more than enough.
5. Don't skimp on the power. It's better to have more power than less. You can always turn down the gains.

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