AUDISON BIT 10 (audio processor) info needed
Appreciate any info or usage you have. Installing in my 2015 ML250. By the way,how much audio do you get from the small speakers mounted in top area of the 2 rear doors? I don't get much of anything. Any other good ideas that I can afford? Planning on keeping this ML a long time. Great car! Thx.
Seeing you dealing with a regular audio company that doesn't have the means to enable/disable the COMAND audio features, most likely the EQ curve will change when you turn the factory volume up/dn or the car on/off.
if you are an iphone user than you can use the Pure i20 with optical output (don't believe it supports the 5 though, never tried it...) you can use the toslink input.
now if it were my vehicle, I would also consider the Alpine PXA-H800 and the RUX controller. I just believe it has a lot more usability and 6 presets. either way, personally I have used both and many of the bit1's
something to ponder
Anything else you can comment on can still be included @ this time. "Randy" has done work for me for several yrs & is flexible.
Last edited by greasykid; Sep 13, 2015 at 11:19 AM.
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Appreciate any info or usage you have. Installing in my 2015 ML250. By the way,how much audio do you get from the small speakers mounted in top area of the 2 rear doors? I don't get much of anything. Any other good ideas that I can afford? Planning on keeping this ML a long time. Great car! Thx.
Make sure on your Bit when the shop runs the initial config they do the de-equalization process. That will remove the factory EQ and give you a flat signal to start with.
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Seeing you dealing with a regular audio company that doesn't have the means to enable/disable the COMAND audio features, most likely the EQ curve will change when you turn the factory volume up/dn or the car on/off.
if you are an iphone user than you can use the Pure i20 with optical output (don't believe it supports the 5 though, never tried it...) you can use the toslink input.
now if it were my vehicle, I would also consider the Alpine PXA-H800 and the RUX controller. I just believe it has a lot more usability and 6 presets. either way, personally I have used both and many of the bit1's
something to ponder
Thanks.
Re earlier post here. The factory EQ removal was the 1st thing done.
Make sure on your Bit when the shop runs the initial config they do the de-equalization process. That will remove the factory EQ and give you a flat signal to start with.
G Style, the S221 is a hard vehicle like the 7 series BMW to get right and it is not cheap. navtv was working on a solution for extracting the audio but it really hasn't matured from concept. you should beat them up by emailing derek@navtv.com and ask them wtf?
they have the hardware and time into it, but back burner'd it like 20 other cool mb products
so an amp will always be needed. I am suprised you didn't go the alpine V9 for a sub in the future or a Voce5.1k
Make sure on your Bit when the shop runs the initial config they do the de-equalization process. That will remove the factory EQ and give you a flat signal to start with.
I was asking about the guy that did the 8.9, and comparing it to a Audio 20. I'm new to this posting stuff so I don't know if I'm responding in the proper place-location, here.
G Style, the S221 is a hard vehicle like the 7 series BMW to get right and it is not cheap. navtv was working on a solution for extracting the audio but it really hasn't matured from concept. you should beat them up by emailing derek@navtv.com and ask them wtf?
they have the hardware and time into it, but back burner'd it like 20 other cool mb productsThat left the Prima to handle just the front and rear door arrays, which do most of the heavy lifting. We set the fronts as 3 way active, and the rears as two way passive.
Prima Channel Distribution
TW -CH1.................................TW-CH2
MID CH3.................................MID CH4
WF CH5..................................WF CH6
--------....................................---------
2 Way-CH7.............................2-Way-CH8
CH9 Unpowered
Sub Out --------------------> JL 300------------> Factory Sub
Took very little tuning to blend the three little surrounds into the mix. Great sounding system, lot's of low end punch, clean mid bass, smooth mid range and transparent highs. Not cheap, around $900 for the Prima, $300 for the JL Amp, around $600 labor. I did my own tuning. Here's an example of the config on the left front woofer:
You get this level of control over each individual speaker in the front doors. Level, Filter Type, EQ, Time Correction,
De-Equalization of the factory signal.
The compact Prima and the JL Sub Amp installed:
Last edited by Mike5215; Oct 9, 2015 at 12:18 AM.
It'll definitely make the most out of your new Hertz gear. I did a speaker replacement first on my 221 (Focal KRS100 in the front doors and Hertz DSK in the rears) and there was some improvement, but the new speakers are totally different animals on the Prima. The Hertz especially "woke up".
Last edited by Mike5215; Oct 9, 2015 at 03:34 PM.
It'll definitely make the most out of your new Hertz gear. I did a speaker replacement first on my 221 (Focal KRS100 in the front doors and Hertz DSK in the rears) and there was some improvement, but the new speakers are totally different animals on the Prima. The Hertz especially "woke up".






