rfoo

I could see that my RPM needle doesn't stay put whenever I'm on idle. It slightly goes up and down and isn't that noticeable yet unless you really stare at it, is this one of the symptoms that the MAF might be going bad or is this a different issue?

I might need to replace my MAF anytime soon as the car just hit 101,000 miles and I'm wondering where would be the cheapest place to get one. Also I noticed that ebay sells some cheap one but not sure of the quality. Any feedback from the ones of ebay?

xvvvz

autohaus az . com has good prices and genuine Bosch but they probably don't ship to Manila. Forget ebay.

rfoo

They can ship internationally, I ordered an item from them before but the shipping is pretty expensive. Thanks for the advice. Do you have any idea or feedback about the ones on eBay?

wesrick

Let me know on the eBay MAF sensors - I'm also curious

ivanj

The oil often causes premature failure of the MAF according to the STAR technical guy. This true for any oil-applied filter - use it sparingly.

rfoo

I can't really say if that screwed up my MAF considering that my MAF hasn't been changed. I haven't re-oiled my K&N yet so I don't think I screwed it. I figured it's probably with the age of my MAF and see what happens after I get a new one and observe if it screws up again then I'll get rid of the K&N.

GlockDaddy

You might try cleaning the MAF first. Any local parts store should have MAF cleaner, it comes in a spray can, I forget who makes it.

Also, if you haven't changed the plugs yet, you might try that too.

But if you do end up buying one, I would go with Autohaus AZ.

wesrick

I've tried the MAF cleaner, found it at my local Advance Auto - tried it twice - it worked for the initial drive (really smoothed things out) then the second time I got in to drive (shortly after) it was back to it's old ways.

I'm sure it must work on other MAF sensors, but not this one.

By the way, what the heck goes wrong with them, anyway? Is it just some type of build-up?

I'm definitely curious about the eBay MAF sensors, though.. but definitely wont' buy a used one, that seems to be a waste...

M-bENZ

rfoo,

Check out my thread and try to clean with that cleaner from the pics,

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...lters-now.html

Andy

ohlord

EBAY IS MOST ARE CHEAP FAKES.GET THE REAL DEAL.100 k miles you also need o2 sensors.
Any codes?

wesrick

Didn't hear any hard evidence on the eBay MAF sensors, so I went ahead and ordered one. Found an aftermarket for $55, as opposed to about $130+ on most sites. I figure it's worth a shot, I'll return it if it doesn't work as promised.

I'm not getting any codes, just runs pretty rough.. ie, it gets the shakes at stop lights.

ohlord

one is 166 at one of the lowest price real oe and oem suppliers.What you think you are getting for 50 bucks is anyones guess
Live and learn.

rfoo

Thanks for the help guys,

I plan on cleaning it yet as it might straighten things up. Only problem is, I can't find a MAF cleaner. All I see is a carb cleaner and some degreaser. I have to go and check other automotive stores to see if I can find one. Any alternative chem I can use to clean the MAF?

maksi

dude,

i have a spare MAF lying around here somewhere. but i don't think that's problem with your car, just yet. have you consulted one of the star guys and adviced you that you need to clean of replace your MAF?

maybe your idle throttle control, mine was acting up that way prior to the rewiring i did on the harness and now it works fine.

PM me so i can show it to you.

till next. . .

rfoo

I'll go and ask. As far as I know, my harness has been change to a tropicalized one that way it won't burn out. I'm not getting any codes when I had a computer plug to my car but that was a month or 2 before the problem started acting up.

I have to leave my car to constellation and have them check to see what's going on. Thanks.

wesrick

OK, eBay MAF came in today, just installed it. So far, car runs more smoothly.

I thought it pulsated ever so slightly when I first installed it (I'll know more after the drive to work tomorrow). However, I did go get on the highway and got on the throttle a couple of times and really noticed a significant power difference.

So far, quite pleased. Will keep anyone interested updated in case anything on it goes south, as the verdict on the slight pulsation is still out. (ie, slight pulsating was probably between 500 and 510rpm, just enough to hear it, and barely see the needle move).

rfoo

Let me know what happens after, who's the seller on eBay you transact with?

wesrick

morning went well - car doesn't shake to pieces at stop lights - and I also did notice more power when I got on it.

I bought it from autodealexpress
Here's a link to the specific item I purchased: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=410940981013

They shipped via first class mail. Got it in 4 days.

Any further questions, just post on the forum so everyone can see. I was pretty frustrated that no one who had used one posted anything publicly, so this was a blind try for me.

Lastly - didn't notice the pulsating this morning. I'm going to keep an eye on it, though. Will update if any problems arise.

rfoo

I tried clicking on your link but said item is no longer available.

Anyway, did he shipped the whole thing or just the sensor itself? I'm trying to get in touch with him and see if he has another one that I can purchase.

rfoo

Hey Wesrick,

Do you have any DIY on how to replace the MAF sensor itself? I can't get the screw out and don't know what the right tools are. Thanks.

wesrick

Yes, I was able to find a way to replace it. Here's what I did.

I didn't have a hex head that fit into the screw holes that they have, since they have that nub in the middle. So, I went to harbor freight and got a bit set that has a two pronged bit in it. This is a link to that bit set, it can be purchased locally: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93388
(Side note - you'll notice that this set appears to have the correct bit to fit perfectly into that funky screw - however - it doesn't fit - you have to use the two-pronged bit)

Then, when you replace the MAF sensor (it's going to be tough to take it out of the housing because of the rubber grommet on the MAF sensor itself), put everything back in place as it was before, including making sure that the clamp that screws down is tightened. Any extra air that gets in can really cause some problems, so make sure you put it back the way you found it. I can go into further detail if you need me to.

Next, I've seen conflicting reports, and I used the battery disconnect method described below.
1.) you can just start the car and be done with it. However, I'm not sure that this is the correct way to do it.
2.) Battery disconnect method - The better way would probably be to disconnect the battery, wait for a minute or so (let all the capacitors drain down) then reconnect the battery. This should reset it so it acclimates to the new MAF sensor.

***IMPORTANT***
What happened after I did the above really frustrated me. I noticed that the windows would roll up/down, but not "click" up or "click" down. You need to re-sync them. You can do this by rolling them down, then up, then after it's up all the way, click the button fully, for about 10 seconds. (it's called one-touch Windows). Do the same with your sunroof.

I think that covers most of it - if anyone else wants to chime in, feel free. I've read on other forums that you have to resync other things, such as power seats, but I've had no trouble with that aspect. I've also seen that things can be "blown" if the battery disconnect is not done correctly. So, please please please - do research before you do any of the above, specific to your car year/model.

wesrick

rfoo, how is your MAF sensor working out for you?

I do notice that the pulsating it still, barely, there. I also notice that on colder mornings, when I first hit the gas it's just a bit sputtery, for a couple of seconds (maybe 2 or 3 seconds), and that's it.

Other than that, I really can't believe how much power it has gained just by changing that one little component. I'm glad that I did it.

One last related note: I've changed the MAF sensor, and the Oxygen sensors, hoping that it would get rid of the shakes, but the dang car still has the shakes... grr

rfoo

I bought a MAF from mpg_auto, from ebay which had a top seller rating, and when I installed the MAF the car just dies everytime I started it. Took maybe 3 or 4 tries to make it start. I drove the new MAF for about 100 miles on the expressway and notice a big power increase and at the same time made alot of improvement on the shifting.

Now here comes the real problem, idling. Car will stall whenever I'm on D while pressing the brake. It happened to me twice but this time the starting has improved. It also had problems getting the idle smooth whenever the car is at N or P. At times it idles so low below 500 on the RPM making the car shake really bad and unable to move. It generally idles from 600RPM to 1000RPM which is pretty bad compared to the original I had.

The reason why I didn't buy with the person you recommended is because of the difficulty of installng the sensor to it's housing. I would probably change the oxygen sensor and see if it will help the idling problem. The MAF is drivable but just not on stop and go conditions. For the meantime I'm back using my Original but about to die MAF.

xvvvz

This is why you buy from a place like autohausaz.com that is known for selling new (not rebuilt) genuine Bosch whenever possible. Ebay is the worst place.

Why are you going to replace an o2 sensor? You have a bad new MAF and a dying old one. You have never gotten a good one to see of that is going to solve you problem.

rfoo

Point taken, I'll go get one from one of the local stores here and see if it improves. They sell Bosch MAF here and an original one for a really really expensive price. I'll let you know and see what happens.