Is it ok to use the German Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (or is it 0W-40?) in AZ where it regularly gets over 100 F during the summer?

 

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

If you live anywhere in the U.S., 0W-40 Mobil 1 will work for you. If you live in Arizona you can also use 15W-50 Mobil 1. I live in the Valley and use it all year round.

I never use 30 weight oils in my Mercedes no matter where I've lived in the U.S. (N.C., Minn., AZ).

 

That is kind of funny as the first thing Mobil 1 0w-40 does when you put it into your engine is shear down to a mid-30 weight. In fact, it shears down BELOW what Syntec 0w-30 would be at the same point in it's service. No offense, but guys who comment on oil as an expert and know little more than what TV ads or their dumb mechanic tells them...it makes me chuckle. FYI- Mobil 30 weights, like most 30 weights, are on the thin side of the range. 0w-40 thins only to re-thicken for the end of the ACEA A3 test sequence. (yuk!) Most people who know their stuff choose GC because it is shear-stable to the point of being like alien-technology. GC is a heavy 30 weight, meeting A3 specs and Mercedes 229.3. The spec to look for, ACEA A3 means an oil has an HT/HS (High-temp/High-shear) rating of over 3.5, a few 30 weights meet it. It is cautioned against 30 weight Mobil 1 in the mfg recommendations and it is NOT sold in Europe.

PS, Foget synthetics in roasting hot climate. Forget MB 229.3 spec. I would use a MB 228.3 15w-40 HDEO (Heavy Duty Engine Oil) like Mobil Delvac 1300 or Chevron Delo 400, great stuff in summer or hot climates, $1.75/q. Here is a snippet from the other thread...

For synthetic, Mobil 1 5w-40 "SUV" aka Delvac-1 is the best all-around choice considering how easy it is to get.

The best oils for the money are 15w-40 diesel-rated oils as long as it is not cold climate. Mobil Delvac 1300 or Chevron Delo 400 meet MB 228.3 specs, same as 229.3 except cold-cranking and MPG, but it has better detergent pack and viscosity retention. (M1 0w-40 thins out a lot only to re-thicken) I have to mention Syntec Blend 10w-40 an A3-rated oil with great used oil analysis results. Check my other thread with a list of 30 or more MB-approved oils.

 

 

Audie Junkie.....



what is interesting is the factory fills (non AMG) are some European brand of 5w-30.

Is it just because that most good Euro oils are not as widely avalable here? and Mobil 1 0w-40 is for 229.3 and .5 MB spec.

So Delvac would be best for my ride, in your opinion?

BTW what do you think of going the full 10k miles on factory fill? I am getting a sample for a UOA of mine at 5k. I am curious to see what's going on in there.....

 

What you are going to get from us is simply opinions. No one here is as knowledgeable as the engineers at Daimler Benz.

I posted a link to the oils that Mercedes approve of for your engine. I'd stick to that chart and ignore the pundits (me included).

 

errr, where the link???

 

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

 

Hi guys. If ambient temps do not go below +20f, I see no reasons to use synthetic nor do I like extended drains. IIRC, MB 228.3 and MB 229.3 are the same as far as sludge stipulation, viscosity retention, difference being MPG and cold-cranking. I was at it with an AMSOIL fanatic who lists all the so-called benefits of the expensive extended-drain oil. The UOAs of samples of AMSOIL after 25,000 miles do not indicate it to be suitable for that, yet the true believer in AMSOIL relies on the ECONOMY of extended drains to justify the COST. This represents a false economy as I can purchase oil with high(er) TBN (ability to neutralize acid) for a fraction of the cost. Add up the moles of acid nutralized over a few changes of 15w-40 diesel rated MB 228.3 verses one change of AMSOIL (or other 229.3 synth oil) it is an obvious choice. Other parts of the World, MEN use heavy oil as recommended in the manuals. Yep, the manufacturer recommends heavier oils everywhere else except here where we have CAFE mpg requirements. Motor oil is taxed heavily in Europe, that is partly why extended-drains are prefered. $15-$22 a litre there for the Syntec 0w-30 or similar. M1 0w-40 is good, but not considered #1 oil in Europe, as the list shows. Oil seals are an issue with synths...all too much to go into. Read up on the oil Forum and if you guys want something really awesome for sludge from those oem extended drains and leaky seals from the synthetic chemistry...try Auto-RX, no kidding.

http://auto-rx.com

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...?ubb=forum;f=1

PS ARX is NOT a solvent flush or one of those miserable oil treatments that either thin or thicken oil and add metallic additives simply to quiet valvetrain. Stupid stuff. ARX has unique slow-cleaning esters....blah blah.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...?ubb=forum;f=5

PS Thin 5w-30 dino SL oil is nothing like thicker Euro synthetic 5w-30.