View Poll Results: What color calipers?
Gold
15
7.18%
Red
66
31.58%
White
5
2.39%
Gunmetal
20
9.57%
Silver
60
28.71%
Black
43
20.57%
Voters: 209. You may not vote on this poll
BRAKE Pad, Rotors, & Calipers Discussion Thread (OEM, aftermarket, etc...)
#101
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'02 C230K Coupe
Aren't brake dust shields generally dis-recommended because of heat concerns?
PS - If the 04.5 pads truly dust less than Porterfields, is it possible to get a set of those pads for my 02 coupe?
PS - If the 04.5 pads truly dust less than Porterfields, is it possible to get a set of those pads for my 02 coupe?
#102
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You can get those pads but you'll have to get the rotors and calipers with it. They changed in 2004.5 to the AMG style. I've used brake dust shields for 200K miles on my W201 and never had a problem. They are vented and are very thin so I don't imagine you will get any serious heat build up. They are just not that pretty but you can paint a picture of Brembo brakes on them.
#103
Originally Posted by Buellwinkle
You can get those pads but you'll have to get the rotors and calipers with it. They changed in 2004.5 to the AMG style. I've used brake dust shields for 200K miles on my W201 and never had a problem. They are vented and are very thin so I don't imagine you will get any serious heat build up. They are just not that pretty but you can paint a picture of Brembo brakes on them.
#108
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2009 Porsche 911 Carrera S
ddinata,
I purchased the Porterfield pads from ForMyMercedes
and paid ~$260.00 for front and rear pads. As to the installation, well it probably took me longer to jack-up and remove the wheel than to change the pads. It's a no brainer even for those that classify themselves as "mechanically challenged".
You can also get Pagid brand brakes much cheaper but I went with the Porterfileds based on the advice of many forum members. Oh yeah, one extra advantage is that they produce very LITTLE dust that easily washes off with the hose.
Hope this helps...
I purchased the Porterfield pads from ForMyMercedes
and paid ~$260.00 for front and rear pads. As to the installation, well it probably took me longer to jack-up and remove the wheel than to change the pads. It's a no brainer even for those that classify themselves as "mechanically challenged".
You can also get Pagid brand brakes much cheaper but I went with the Porterfileds based on the advice of many forum members. Oh yeah, one extra advantage is that they produce very LITTLE dust that easily washes off with the hose.
Hope this helps...
#109
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1959 220S / 1979 230 G / 2002 A210 AMG / 2003 C320 SC / 2004.5 C320 SS / 2005 ML350 SE / 2008 smart
hey, I'm one of those "mechanically challenged" people. LOL !
question for ya jlm003:
when you changed the pads to Porterfields, do you still use the MB brake pad sensors, or will those not work/fit on non-MB pads ?
Maybe it's a dumb question, because I just don't know enough about the brake pads and the sensor set-up, but figured you could tell me since you were able to do it.
Thanks !
Carlos
Saprissa@aol.com
question for ya jlm003:
when you changed the pads to Porterfields, do you still use the MB brake pad sensors, or will those not work/fit on non-MB pads ?
Maybe it's a dumb question, because I just don't know enough about the brake pads and the sensor set-up, but figured you could tell me since you were able to do it.
Thanks !
Carlos
Saprissa@aol.com
#110
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Mercedes-Benz
hey, I'm one of those "mechanically challenged" people also. LOL !
I've had that message up for atleast year and half now. I have no clue how to install brake pads. Installing the Audio 10 was hard enough for me. I'm more into computers, weight lifting, learning new things at college, but as for my car... I'm white trash. HAHA I bought WIS, and two other mercedes benz repair guides and still have no clue. I find that easy things for others, is hard for me. Things I find easy, other people find hard. So here I site, crabbing. lol
Plus I'm scared if I do something wrong, the car will not be stopping. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
I've had that message up for atleast year and half now. I have no clue how to install brake pads. Installing the Audio 10 was hard enough for me. I'm more into computers, weight lifting, learning new things at college, but as for my car... I'm white trash. HAHA I bought WIS, and two other mercedes benz repair guides and still have no clue. I find that easy things for others, is hard for me. Things I find easy, other people find hard. So here I site, crabbing. lol
Plus I'm scared if I do something wrong, the car will not be stopping. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Last edited by rockintunes23; 10-05-2004 at 05:32 PM.
#112
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2009 Porsche 911 Carrera S
Good news!!!
Just pull out the sensor from the original pad and install in the Porterfield (they come pre-drilled). As I remember there's only one sensor (front right, passenger, side on my 2004 C240).
By the way, make sure that you buy a couple of tubes of a compound that must be used on the back of the pads to keep them from squealing (Pep Boys carries this and it's a couple of bucks per tube). If you buy the pads from ForMyMercedes, they include the compound free and some basic instruction on how to keep the pads from making noise.
By the way here's a forum article regarding this subject:
Brakes
Just pull out the sensor from the original pad and install in the Porterfield (they come pre-drilled). As I remember there's only one sensor (front right, passenger, side on my 2004 C240).
By the way, make sure that you buy a couple of tubes of a compound that must be used on the back of the pads to keep them from squealing (Pep Boys carries this and it's a couple of bucks per tube). If you buy the pads from ForMyMercedes, they include the compound free and some basic instruction on how to keep the pads from making noise.
By the way here's a forum article regarding this subject:
Brakes
#115
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2009 Porsche 911 Carrera S
Johnp,
Unless you're competing in auto-cross events or love to do panic stops your rotors should be OK, specially if you've been using factory pads (which tend to be very 'soft' and hence wear out easily).
You normally "turn" rotors when they are warped which will in turn cause uneven pad wear. One of the main culprits of warpage is when the rotors become excessively hot by prolonged long downhill brake application, competition, etc. and you all of a suddent hit a large puddle of water or heavy rain. This immediate cool-down of the rotors is one of the main reason rotors warp.
All in all it should be OK to just change the pads...
Unless you're competing in auto-cross events or love to do panic stops your rotors should be OK, specially if you've been using factory pads (which tend to be very 'soft' and hence wear out easily).
You normally "turn" rotors when they are warped which will in turn cause uneven pad wear. One of the main culprits of warpage is when the rotors become excessively hot by prolonged long downhill brake application, competition, etc. and you all of a suddent hit a large puddle of water or heavy rain. This immediate cool-down of the rotors is one of the main reason rotors warp.
All in all it should be OK to just change the pads...
#116
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08 Silver Lexus IS250 (manual),73 air cooled super beetle-- black 2004 230 ss is gone
Cant agree with you----unless you're talking about Benz's exclusively. (This is my 1st one, but I've owned other highline/performance cars before it)I was taught that you ALWAYS have to turn or replace rotor to allow pad to wear properly/evenly. Every rotor I saw did not wear smoothly and had some ridges on its face. That is why I asked the question---to turn a rotor in order to smooth its face. I cant see how turning a rotor when warped will correct the problem. I wud thing too much metal wud have to be cut to correct the warpage. Hey, I cud be wrong. I just hope you realize I'm not arguing/being defensive here. Thanks for your response
#117
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I changed my pad last Saturday... no need to change the rotor.
and if you get the "Brake pad lining ... " message, you need to change your sensor too. The changing is no brainer. It was my "first-ever-touching-car" event.
BTW, I got Pagid from buyMBparts.com paid $76 (1 front pad set, 3 anti-squeal paste, 1 sensor).
Good Luck!
and if you get the "Brake pad lining ... " message, you need to change your sensor too. The changing is no brainer. It was my "first-ever-touching-car" event.
BTW, I got Pagid from buyMBparts.com paid $76 (1 front pad set, 3 anti-squeal paste, 1 sensor).
Good Luck!
#118
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Boxster987 C230KSS M3
Originally Posted by johnp
Cant agree with you----unless you're talking about Benz's exclusively. (This is my 1st one, but I've owned other highline/performance cars before it)I was taught that you ALWAYS have to turn or replace rotor to allow pad to wear properly/evenly. Every rotor I saw did not wear smoothly and had some ridges on its face.
Last edited by jinijazz; 10-06-2004 at 03:51 PM.
#119
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Mercedes-Benz
Exactly, my service rep. only replaces brake pads and rotors. Lets just say, a simple job that costs about a hundred and half gets you to almost a thousand there. That's why I'm still sitting here wondering when my car will not stop. lol
#120
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Someone asked about the sensor..it's about 5 bucks.
Once it the light on the dash comes on, the sensor is fried..
it just 2 wires sealed in plastic. When the pads wear down, the
plastic wears off, exposes the wires, and completes the connection on the rotor.
They wanted 660+ tax to do front and rear pads ONLY at my dealer. Did the fronts for 70 and never did the rears...funny but same dealer said they (rears) were fine 25K miles later.
Such lyin' cheatin' lo down money hungry dogs are they.
But I'm used to it now.
Only spent 700 on the whole AMG kit including shipping and brake fluid.
Once it the light on the dash comes on, the sensor is fried..
it just 2 wires sealed in plastic. When the pads wear down, the
plastic wears off, exposes the wires, and completes the connection on the rotor.
They wanted 660+ tax to do front and rear pads ONLY at my dealer. Did the fronts for 70 and never did the rears...funny but same dealer said they (rears) were fine 25K miles later.
Such lyin' cheatin' lo down money hungry dogs are they.
But I'm used to it now.
Only spent 700 on the whole AMG kit including shipping and brake fluid.
#121
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Some good DIY instructions here..
http://shorterlink.com/?851TOA
http://shorterlink.com/?851TOA
#122
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Mercedes-Benz
Look at that website and still have no clue. I'll be white bread and pay someone to do it. Probably I'll learn how to do it and can laugh about this matter later. So reminds me when I paid Jiffy Lube to change my window washer blades. After 35 bucks, I had a pair. Now I change them myself for 5 bucks.
#123
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05' c230 SS
My dad owns a auto garage/tire shop and I worked for him for five years. We turned the rotors on every brake job we did. If customers requested to just "slap" pads on we made them sign a hold harmless agreement. I turn my rotors every brake job and will continue with my new Mercedes. I'm not saying it's absolutely necessary, just the way I'm going to do it.
#124
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change rotors?
I believe the only reasons to change rotors are if the surface has cracks, the whole rotor warped, 'excessive' grooves or ridges are present, or they have worn below the minimum thickness. Rotors quickly get grooves and ridges on most cars and it doesn't affect the braking performance enough to turn them immediately... does it? No, we keep using them until the pads need replacement.
#125
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1959 220S / 1979 230 G / 2002 A210 AMG / 2003 C320 SC / 2004.5 C320 SS / 2005 ML350 SE / 2008 smart
What is exactly meant, when you say "Turn" the rotors ?