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07 C230 (sold) 2009 E63 AMG (SOLD), 2015 E 63 AMG S
Originally Posted by kluvsbenz
I will gladly pay you Tuesday for you to give up those rims today J/K!!
Autohausaz, rmeuropean, discountmbparts.com are my go to sites. I am sure there are tons of others.
Have not heard much on the zimmermans. I have ATE ceramics and Pagid pads on rears. No problems and great price. Akebonos seem to be the consensus on this forum. I might check those out on my fronts when the time comes up.
Hahaha ill think about it.
I found them on rmeuropean for 115 a set.. I have brand new ceramic pads all around but my front rotor literally has a lip
Why can I not find a DIY thread anywhere on replacing the rotors?! I have been searching all day so forgive me if I am just being stupid and not typing in the right things in the search box, but...
I've replaced the rotors on my previous cars and I know how to do it, but I was wondering if anyone knew if there is anything special I need to know about replacing them on a '06 w203 with the sport package?
I just ordered 4 Disc Italia drilled and slotted rotors and Akebono ceramic pads so I could replace them, but I want to make sure there isn't anything special I need to know before I'm sitting dead in the water with my car on jack stands. I also want these rotors to last because they were not cheap!
Probably not. Unless you're as unlucky as I was (https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ke-rotors.html), there just isn't that much to it. ND2020 got you started:
1. undo the torx screw.
2. Take out the pads (drift the two pins in toward the center of the car. You may have to use a screw driver to compress the pistons in the caliper to get them off. I used a screwdriver to pry the lower inside pad on the upper outside pad and vise versa. Make sure you don't poke a hole in the seal around the caliper piston.)
3. Take off the caliper (18mm bolts on the back of the hub. They screw through the hub into the caliper). Hang it or rest it somewhere somehow so that the brake hose is not stressed.
4. Use a dead blow, small sledge, or any BFH to knock them off from under the car while turning them. They will be stuck on there good so don't be afraid to hit it hard.
5. Use a C clamp and an old pad to push the pistons in the caliper the rest of the way in.
As they say, assembly is the reverse. Be sure you clean the surfaces of the hub and interior of the rotor.You may also want to refresh the lock patch on the caliper bolts with blue locktite. Also, remember to use the goo on the back of the pads.
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
One word of warning. Do not push pistons back further than necessary to insert a new set of pads or to insert a new rotor. Any further can lead to caliper over return due to seal stiction in the bore & a low pedal. Fixing this can sometimes mean a dry strip of the brake system. Also crack the bleeder nipples before pushing back the pistons or you can damage the ABS block which is expensive.
One word of warning. Do not push pistons back further than necessary to insert a new set of pads or to insert a new rotor. Any further can lead to caliper over return due to seal stiction in the bore & a low pedal. Fixing this can sometimes mean a dry strip of the brake system. Also crack the bleeder nipples before pushing back the pistons or you can damage the ABS block which is expensive.
Yes! Thanks for that reminder. I wasn't aware of the ABS issue. I haven't had a problem yet, but I'll not take the chance in the future.
need some clarification here. what piston caliper is this 1, 2 or 4? I don't think it is 4 since it was mentioned before that it is only on 2004.5 production years. my coupe's production year is march 04
ok guys..Just hit the 26,000 mile mark and am getting ready to redo the front and rear breaks.. Car is a 2006 C280 luxury non 4 matic.. I do not want to upgrade to bigger brakes at this time, nor do I really need anymore stopping power.. I want a setup the will keep my nice new wheels clean for summer and a rotor that is more aggressive looking than stock.
Here is what I was thinking..
StopTech sport stop cross drilled rotors all the way around with new Akebono pads as well.. Price for all parts and shipping is right around $450.00 . I plan on doing the install myself.. Any and all feedback is appreciated.. Thanks in Advance..
ok guys..Just hit the 26,000 mile mark and am getting ready to redo the front and rear breaks.. Car is a 2006 C280 luxury non 4 matic.. I do not want to upgrade to bigger brakes at this time, nor do I really need anymore stopping power.. I want a setup the will keep my nice new wheels clean for summer and a rotor that is more aggressive looking than stock.
Here is what I was thinking..
StopTech sport stop cross drilled rotors all the way around with new Akebono pads as well.. Price for all parts and shipping is right around $450.00 . I plan on doing the install myself.. Any and all feedback is appreciated.. Thanks in Advance..
Andrew..
It's a pretty straight forward job. I like my Akebono pads. You shouldn't need replace the disks at 26K miles - certainly not the rears. Since the rears participate less in the braking - you don't need cross-drilled rotors there. It certainly wouldn't hurt to put them there, though. I got my disks from rmeuropean Though I have nothing against Stoptech. If you do change your pads, I would spray the hat section with silver paint. The wheel spokes are so open, when they rust, it shows.
want drilled in the front and back to match>>>plus with everything new it will be easier to keep track of the wear and tear...I need to start my own thread anyway.. I have had some help from tru taing and phister so I need to post the pics just been slackn...coming soon
want drilled in the front and back to match>>>plus with everything new it will be easier to keep track of the wear and tear...I need to start my own thread anyway.. I have had some help from tru taing and phister so I need to post the pics just been slackn...coming soon
I have drilled rotors in the back, got them from brakeperformance.com. obviously just cosmetic, but I think it looks great. if you haven't ordered them yet check there, I forget exact numbers but I got everything for just under 400 I believe. I got pads from amazon by the way, search by akebono 873 or whatever model number instead of by w203.
want drilled in the front and back to match>>>plus with everything new it will be easier to keep track of the wear and tear...I need to start my own thread anyway.. I have had some help from tru taing and phister so I need to post the pics just been slackn...coming soon
oK reading through thread i couldn't find answer so here it goes. i have Akebono front brake pads ceramic with oem rotors. ive had them on for about 3k miles now. i love the no dust from the akebonos BUT here where it gets weird. when i back up i get this loud squeal fron the front passenger side. after a few seconds it goes away and i can keep backing up. then i go forward and it squeals again for like 2 presses of pedal then it goes away completely. then it repeats it self when i back up etc etc. ive taken them off and used the 'squeal free' for a few days theere will be no noise, then its back on. anybody experience something similar? btw this is not the first time changing my own brakes, but first time using ceramics.
I wonder if you put enough goop on the back of your pads... I don't really know what the proper amount is but I probably put more than I need to. I always buy an extra packet of it at the parts store and spread a good coating over the entire pad backing. I probably use at least 50% more than they provide with the pads. So far... no squeak.
I'm in doubt I'm almost ready to change my current calipers to the sports package ones...
only, I don't know wich color ... I don't want to go for yellow, because it's becoming the new red ...
currently, i have the stock brakes, and i painted those red a few years ago.
also, I don't want anything that contrasts to much with the SML's, as i want to keep those orange. It's a thing over here in europe to have orange sml's
This is how the car looks now
for the sports calipers, I'm planning on either going Red again (this time fire-opal red, oem mercedes color) or going for silver-grey
I think the silver might make it look a bit classier, but it won't track as much attention, as changing calipers is not allowed on technical control over here... Or i can stay with red, I still have 6 months or so until I have to go to the technical controls, so they will be well used by then, and hopefully look as they have always been there.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
I did mine with BOSCH Quietcast rotors because I got them off Amazon Warehouse for $6 each (not a typo) and EBC Ultimax (2) pads, which were available for $30 for some reason.
Prestone DOT3, because it has more anti-corrosives than DOT4 and lasts longer. I'll probably have to redo it again soon anyway since it was nasty.
The fluid was olive green, which I never saw before...
A $45 total front brake job. DIY is better than a shop for brakes. So far so good.
I used Zimmerman and Brembro pads on my A4 not long ago. For $60 I would recommend them for Mercedes, but I wanted to try the EBC and 1/2 the price...
Wagner ThermoQuiet and Centric Posiquiet are bother very good FLAPS options.
Last edited by Audi Junkie; 11-06-2018 at 06:36 PM.