My LED's are still running fine. I just took them off and sent them to autowerks to be tinted. Really looking forward to the finished product. lol reading this thread reminds me of my noob days. back to reality.

 

All the S-Class taillights are made by the same manufacturer. Just check the seller feedback on e-bay or check some of the sponsors on here.

 

And you've learned and adapted, so I must give you a for that.

LED's took over a year to go bad.

 

Thanks for your reply! So something like this seems like it'd be good, the feedback is good on the seller.

 

So those wouldn't be LED's, but I dont want to be replacing the lights in a year from now. But I was wondering, when these LED's go bad, do you need to replace the whole unit or is it just a bulb?

 

Unless you like soldering, the whole unit.

 

Ok, i've wired my tails so that the whole row lights up but i've lost the foglight function which i never use anyway. I tapped into the running lights and haven't got any error messages so far. My question is: will doing this harm anything? i.e. messing up the rear SAM or anything else. I just thought maybe i'd have to change a fuse or something since it is now drawing more current and the bulbs that were in the inner seem to be of higher wattage. I did switch the inside with the outside though since the bulb inside was brighter.

 

No. It shouldn't harm anything. Frank did it before and I'm sure some other people did it.

Just so you know, now that I have a wire crimper, I plan on doing a project that will allow for the lights to look like the 2005 lights (both inside and outside running lights) and also maintain the rear foglight functionality. This requires a socket change (from single to dual filament bulb). I will post pics when I get to it.

 

Looking forward to it. Doesn't seem that hard actually now that i think about it, it'll just be obtaining the socket that may be an issue. I may try this out myself one day.

 

Ryan, if you get to it first, by all means...go for it! I've been talkin' about it for so long, but just never had the tools readily available to me. Since I had to buy a wire crimper and cutter for my foglight wiring, now I have the equipment. Just gotta find the time to sit down and do it.

Just to give you an idea of what's needed for one taillight assembly, you need:

(1) wire crimper and cutter
(1) voltmeter (or multimeter) to measure amps (optional just to find out which is the line to power the running light)
(2) 1157 sockets (one for "import" works best)
(2) 1157 bulbs
(multiple) T-taps or barrell taps
(extra) wire

This is what you do (IN THEORY):
Outside running light
- Cut the 1156 socket off (from S-Class taillight)
- Splice in the 1157 socket (just the power and ground, 3rd wire not needed)
- 1157 socket needed for both outside and inside, in order to have the light consistency match.

Inside running light (w/ rear foglight)
- Cut the 1156 socket off (inside)
- Splice in the 1157 socket (power, ground and 3rd wire - I think foglight is green and white on the S-Class taillight wiring).

Now, this is just the theory. Whether or not it will work without a hitch is completely secondary. At that point, that's where I discuss it with my wiring guru cousin.

In order for the lights to be consistent, you'll have to do this for both left and right side. In theory, this should work, but with benz wiring...LOL...it's proven to be more challenging than normal.

 

I ordered some BS LED rear lights, they plugs don't match up and I didn't want to cut the wires.

I keep reading people have S Class LED tails....are they direct fit? I have a W203 C230 Sedan (2005)

 

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=120560

 

you could always do what I did.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/142674-easy-led-tail-light-mod.html

 

I have these LED tails sitting on a shelf, I have an 05 C230 Sedan....where can I get the connector adapter? The 7 to 6 pin adapter? I don't want to cut wires.

 

How about you build them for me....and I'll pay you. I'm too shy to start fkng with my car that much. I'd rather plug and play. You interested?

I actually still have these Eagle Eyes LED tails that everyone bought from E-Bay but I got mine from some yahoo store ....but the connector is 6 and my car is 7. I don't want to cut wires. I'd really rather just buy an adapter, or hell...cut the wires on the after market lights then put the proper connector on those. I'd rather damage the after market lights than damage my car.

Besides I got them for free anyway. When I tried to return them because they weren't direct fit (the connector) the store kept blowing me off so I disputed it with my CC company they too were ignored...so they gave me my money back and I got to keep the lights. Thank you Visa!

 

read my thread, requires no wire cutting, nothing that can't be reversed to original condition AND it includes LED binkers

 

Ask steve (MBenzNL).

 

The individual Part # is: A 211 545 03 28

but you will also need this "blade" tool: W 000 589 13 99 30

See the pics on this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....9&postcount=91

Carlos

Saprissa@aol.com

 

Carlos, you had to spoon feed that one, didn't you!...LOL j/k

 

I know I know...
it's just that it still boggles me, how people don't know how to search.

 

hey, do you like that ????

 

Okay, so my camera phone can't really get good shots of what was done, but I basically was able to sit down and do the wiring the past couple weekends (test last week, actual wiring this past Saturday).





I finally set the S-class taillights to have the running lights look like the 2005 running lights AND Keep the functionality of the Rear foglight. I will try to get better pics tonight. One of the bulbs turned out to be bad, so I still have to try it with fully functioning bulbs. This requires a replacement of ALL 4 1156 sockets to 1157 sockets.

Here is the DIY, but I'm to lazy to do it with pics.
- Purchase 1157 sockets (Got mine from Pep Boys - Marked as "import" sockets - part number to be provided later)
- If you get the ones from Pep Boys, there is a tab that needs to be cut off and shaved down in order for the socket to lock in.
- Purchase barrell taps (and wire cutter/crimper if not already in posession of one)
- Cut wires, for 1156 socket (as close as possible to the socket), that are used for the inside running light (where rear fog is located)
- Using barrel connector, tap ground wire and (bright light) power wire of 1157 socket to the wires that the 1156 socket originally were connected to.
- Leave 2nd power wire (on 1157 socket) hanging for now.
- Cut wires, for 1156 socket (as close as possible to the socket), that are used for the outside running light
- Using barrel connector, tap ground wire of the 1157 socket to the original ground wire the 1156 (outside socket) was connected to.
- Place power wire (dim light) of outside 1157 socket w/ power wire (dim light) of inside 1157 socket into one end of barrel connector.
- Other end of barrel connector will be tapped into the original power wire of the outside running light
- Extra power wire (on outside running light) can be left free, since there is no rear foglight on the outside running light.

Now, I'm sure some of you are wondering why all 4 sockets needed to be replaced instead of just the rear foglight socket. The reason for this, is to keep the light output the same across the board. If you keep the 1156 socket for the outside running light, the outside running light will be slightly brighter than the inside running light. I'm thinking that, if you switch to a mini-bulb that this could remedy the problem, but I chose to just play the safer route and go with replacing the outside sockets.

I am also considering running the wires underneath the interior trunk panel to have dual rear foglights. Not sure if I'm going to do that, but it's something I've considered.

 

+1!!
very detailed write up
thanks drex

 

Still some kinks to work out to get it 100% smooth, but works for now.

 

Before anybody jumps in and does this, hold off for a second. Ran into some snags on the way home.