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Cant turn drilled rotors??? WTF?

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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 02:28 PM
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Cant turn drilled rotors??? WTF?

Just bought the 2004 C230 SS and the shop tells me you cant turn drilled rotors? I have never heard that one before.
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hmontaq
Just bought the 2004 C230 SS and the shop tells me you cant turn drilled rotors? I have never heard that one before.
I've heard it before and it is possible, but it's been debated that it compromises the sturdiness of the rotors (referring to cross drilled rotors) if you turn them. I didn't turn mine, so just gonna upgrade when I need new pads. Benz recommends new rotors every other brake pad change.
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by drexappeal
I've heard it before and it is possible, but it's been debated that it compromises the sturdiness of the rotors (referring to cross drilled rotors) if you turn them. I didn't turn mine, so just gonna upgrade when I need new pads. Benz recommends new rotors every other brake pad change.

Thanks... I am shocked. All these years with HP cars and this is the first I heard it. NEW rotors each pad change? OUCH!

What upgrade are you getting?
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by hmontaq
Thanks... I am shocked. All these years with HP cars and this is the first I heard it. NEW rotors each pad change? OUCH!

What upgrade are you getting?
New rotors every other pad change is what Benz recommends. I never heard it before I had my Benz, but I'm guessing that's just to keep the performance level up to "spec" and prevent any complaints about the breaking.

Not sure one what exact upgrade I'm gonna go with, yet. I have about another year 'till my current pads are worn down, so I'll probably make a decision this summer. Might be going BBK, but not positive yet.
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by drexappeal
New rotors every other pad change is what Benz recommends. I never heard it before I had my Benz, but I'm guessing that's just to keep the performance level up to "spec" and prevent any complaints about the breaking.

Not sure one what exact upgrade I'm gonna go with, yet. I have about another year 'till my current pads are worn down, so I'll probably make a decision this summer. Might be going BBK, but not positive yet.
i agree usually they say that about german cars...i've worked at a shop for a while and we usually dont resurface the rotors...reason being is because the manuf. recommended thickness usually goes to low, and we just end up replacing them...also the rotors if you notice, they get eaten up pretty bad, so you have to go into it pretty deep and its not recommended to turn them. Basically a safety issue, and all that will happen if its to thin is that it will heat up faster and you'll have slumpy brakes(not good)
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 03:21 PM
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Yes One can surface crossdrilled brake rotors on a Mill..NOT a Brake lathe
If there is enought material to remove and still be in spec..also one MUST Chamfer the crossdrilled holes..again more labor..

It May be cheaper just to replace the rotors..

Also one Should have the rotors cryo treated to help with wear..The Treatment can make the rotors last up to three times longer than Untreated rotors
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MARK CUMMINS
Yes One can surface crossdrilled brake rotors on a Mill..NOT a Brake lathe
If there is enought material to remove and still be in spec..also one MUST Chamfer the crossdrilled holes..again more labor..

It May be cheaper just to replace the rotors..

Also one Should have the rotors cryo treated to help with wear..The Treatment can make the rotors last up to three times longer than Untreated rotors
Mark, thanks for that 411! Really helps a lot, for future reference.
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 04:37 PM
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I usually eyeball the rotors, if they look smooth, there's no pedal pulsation to give me a clue that they are warped I just do pads, don't touch the rotors. If they look like deeply grooved, you can see that the edge is much thicker than the meat of the rotors or it's warped I get new. I used to worry about getting the right rotor but I've had good luck with Raybestos low end, probably made in China but they work well, smooth, wear the same as anyother rotor. My only concern with the C is that it's drilled and those should come from a higher quality manufacturer as it has to be done right. One guy on the benzworld.org forum had his aftermarket cross drilled rotors break apart after a few weeks, scary...
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Buellwinkle
I usually eyeball the rotors, if they look smooth, there's no pedal pulsation to give me a clue that they are warped I just do pads, don't touch the rotors. .
Slap a dial indicator on the rotor and spin it. You can usually see the runout, if not, the dial indicator will pick it up.
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by hmontaq
Thanks... I am shocked. All these years with HP cars and this is the first I heard it. NEW rotors each pad change? OUCH!
On my E36 328i, I used to go thru a new set of front rotors for every 2 sets of brake pads... they just wore too thin to be safe. These were stock pads and rotors.... guess I was just heavy on the brakes....
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 03:36 AM
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Brake Rotors

From what I've heard, it's a given that you can't resurface drilled brake rotors. I don't know if you can for slotted either but personally I doubt it.

Now, I only have 10,500 miles on my 2005 C230k SS, I have the big 13.6 inch rotors in the front. And I'm wondering, for the people in the US that have the same car with the same brakes, how long do your pads last? And does your service advisor tell you to change the rotors at the same time you change the pads?

Have an E320 in the family, it needed a pad change at 33,000 miles and the service advisor insisited that we replaced the rotors at the same time as well. Damage of around $1000USD.

Summary (to make your life easier):
1. How long do pads on a 05 C230K SS (US version) last?
2. Did you have to replace the rotors on the very first pad change?
3. What's the financial damage for just pads or both pads and rotors (we're talking dealer parts and dealer labour)?

Thank you very much in advance.

Patrick

P.S. Anybody in the SF Bay area getting rid of their rims with useable tires left on them? Looking for the stock 17 inch 5 spoke staggered set or the 17 inch 5 double spoke (AMG) staggered set.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 12:19 PM
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I have a 2004.5, same brakes and I have 20K miles and the front pads still have more than half the pad thickness left, just checked it last week. My commute to work is all city streets, no freeway.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by patrick_y
Summary (to make your life easier):
1. How long do pads on a 05 C230K SS (US version) last?
2. Did you have to replace the rotors on the very first pad change?
3. What's the financial damage for just pads or both pads and rotors (we're talking dealer parts and dealer labour)?

Patrick
Patrick,

Answers:
1. Depends on what your driving style is and/or the areas you have to go through (i.e. lots of hills? / more highway than side street? / heavy braking foot?)
2. No. My MB Dealer recommended every other pad change
3. Just pads, I replaced with Porterfield pads, came to around $400 front and rear (Dealer charges up to $500+ just for front OEM pad replacement)
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 04:26 PM
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Quote from Drexappeal:

Patrick,

Answers:
1. Depends on what your driving style is and/or the areas you have to go through (i.e. lots of hills? / more highway than side street? / heavy braking foot?)
2. No. My MB Dealer recommended every other pad change
3. Just pads, I replaced with Porterfield pads, came to around $400 front and rear (Dealer charges up to $500+ just for front OEM pad replacement)
1. I don't go through a lot of hill driving. Don't have a heavy foot either. Regarding the E320 that had its pads and rotors replaced at the same time at 33k miles, that car didn't see much hilly driving either.

2. My dealer insisted that the E320 have its rotors changed. They said that it wouldn't last another 10,000 miles.

3. My dealer charged $990 approximately for the E320 pad and rotor change with labour and parts. I think it's highway robbery, but I unfortunately see no way around it. I hope that my C230K SS will not see that kind of replacement costs, although it's probably bound to be more expensive due to the fact that it has more expensive front rotors.

This is almost sad and pathetic, but since I try to be as economical as possible when I drive, I sparingly use the brake pedal and I try to coast a lot (not putting it into neutral, simply just letting off the gas to slow the car down) so I use the brake a lot less. If you see a black C230K SS in the SF Bay area that seems to be going rather slowly, especially in city and on highway exits, that's probably me. I'm not impeding traffic though nor sacrificing safety for any reason whatsoever.

Thanks again.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by patrick_y
1. I don't go through a lot of hill driving. Don't have a heavy foot either. Regarding the E320 that had its pads and rotors replaced at the same time at 33k miles, that car didn't see much hilly driving either.

2. My dealer insisted that the E320 have its rotors changed. They said that it wouldn't last another 10,000 miles.

3. My dealer charged $990 approximately for the E320 pad and rotor change with labour and parts. I think it's highway robbery, but I unfortunately see no way around it. I hope that my C230K SS will not see that kind of replacement costs, although it's probably bound to be more expensive due to the fact that it has more expensive front rotors.

This is almost sad and pathetic, but since I try to be as economical as possible when I drive, I sparingly use the brake pedal and I try to coast a lot (not putting it into neutral, simply just letting off the gas to slow the car down) so I use the brake a lot less. If you see a black C230K SS in the SF Bay area that seems to be going rather slowly, especially in city and on highway exits, that's probably me. I'm not impeding traffic though nor sacrificing safety for any reason whatsoever.

Thanks again.
Based on what you said, just to give you a guage, I drive hills at least 5 out of 7 days a week (because of where my house is at). I use my brakes a lot, but don't have a heavy brake foot. My OEM pads lasted me for 1.5 years. I only needed to change the fronts at that time because the dealership told me that the rear still had about 30% wear left, but since I only paid around $400+ for both front and rear pad replacement (at an independent mechanic - w/ pads purchased through FrankW), I replaced both front and rear. I didn't turn the rotors, but looking at how the wear is, I'm gonna be looking at an upgrade for rotors and pads by late next winter.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 07:18 PM
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After 10K miles I replaced my front pads with Porterfields because I was tired of the brake dust...there was already a lip worn into the edge of the rotors but I used them anyway. The Porterfields lasted 85K miles and would probably have gone another 10K. The rotors wore some from the Porterfields but not near the same rate as with stock pads. I think the Porterfields also stop better.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mleskovar
After 10K miles I replaced my front pads with Porterfields because I was tired of the brake dust...there was already a lip worn into the edge of the rotors but I used them anyway. The Porterfields lasted 85K miles and would probably have gone another 10K. The rotors wore some from the Porterfields but not near the same rate as with stock pads. I think the Porterfields also stop better.
would you say its worth switching to porterfields? i've heard of them..but never experience them. Better braking power? how much dust is there? compared to stock. and where do you buy from?
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by robohopar
would you say its worth switching to porterfields? i've heard of them..but never experience them. Better braking power? how much dust is there? compared to stock. and where do you buy from?
They are relatively expensive, about $190, but considering the wear and dust reduction it sure is worth it to me. They have a higher temperature operating limit than standard so are less likely to fade under hard use. Don't squeal when installed properly....an installation 'kit' comes with them to ensure they don't make noise. Dust is reduced to the nuisance level. I used to clean my wheels every 100 miles (almost daily) and now they dust less in a week than they did in a day.
http://myroadster.net/ If you follow the installation and break in procedure you'll get top performance and optimum satisfaction from them.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by robohopar
would you say its worth switching to porterfields? i've heard of them..but never experience them. Better braking power? how much dust is there? compared to stock. and where do you buy from?
Upgraded to Porterfields on my first brake pad change and I definitely have to say that after they were worn in a 'bit, they do have better stopping power than stock. At first, they were comparitively the same. Now, they brake much better. There is a very slight squeal every now and then (when the rotors are not cleaned), but the brake dust is very little compared to OEM pads.

Bought them from Frank, but I don't know if he can still get them.
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