Trouble with First Morning Start - Ethanol to blame?
I first talked to some collegues and they have said that many other types of cars (e.g. SRT-4s, Subarus, Lexus) are having the same problem. People in their forums are suspecting that it may be due to the E10 ethanol gasoline (10% ethanol, 90% gas). I brought my car in to the dealership and says that a few people have also been complaining and the dealer too suspects that it is caused by E10 gasoline which has recently been distributed. I've searched the forum and couldn't find anything similar (I apologize if there is). I guess I'm wondering if anyone else has seen this issue?. I live in the Northeast which may be adding to my problem due to the weather.
I first talked to some collegues and they have said that many other types of cars (e.g. SRT-4s, Subarus, Lexus) are having the same problem. People in their forums are suspecting that it may be due to the E10 ethanol gasoline (10% ethanol, 90% gas). I brought my car in to the dealership and says that a few people have also been complaining and the dealer too suspects that it is caused by E10 gasoline which has recently been distributed. I've searched the forum and couldn't find anything similar (I apologize if there is). I guess I'm wondering if anyone else has seen this issue?. I live in the Northeast which may be adding to my problem due to the weather.
Ethanol-based reformulated gasoline easily absorbs water, so it cannot be sent in pipelines to terminals and then trucked to gas stations like conventional gasoline. Instead, the gasoline and ethanol are sent separately to avoid water contamination and then mixed at the terminal. If they don't mix it correctly, you get water into your fuel system, screwing up, well..........your entire engine.
Last edited by TA-9FF; May 24, 2006 at 01:35 PM.
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i always use 93.
Octane is a measure of how much fuel can be compressed without combusting. If you use a low octane fuel in a high compression engine, you will have the fuel detonating on its own, before the engine wants it to. This causes "knocking" and our cars have anti-knock sensors that will detect and adjust the engine to prevent knocking. However, even a little bit of knocking, particularly in a more cheaply designed car, can be devastating to the engine. Its very very easy to totally bugger up your engine this way.
More pure gasoline does not mean higher octane. To reach the octane levels that we are putting in our cars, especially in areas that have octane levels as high as 95 or more, the gasoline has to have large amount of additives that have higher octane levels. For example, pure Ethanol has an octane of 113. These additives do NOT neccesarily make the gasoline burn "better." Ethanol and MtBE are both oxygenates (they add oxygen to the mix) and so cause a more complete combustion, reducing carbonmonoxide emissions. As of 2005, the US federal government no longer requires oxygenates be added to fuels because of the negligible impact on emissions in modern vehicles.
If oxygenates have a negligible impact on carbonmonoxide emissions in a modern engine, that would imply that the oxygenate is not increasing the amount of gasoline that undergoes combustion. So, what is it doing? Combusting? Well, yes it is combusting along with the gasoline. But, does that actually HELP?
Back to ethanol. Ethanol burns at a lower BTU than gasoline. That means that it's burning cooler. Ethanol produces would have you assume that this is "better" because it doesn't "wear your engine" as much. But, how do our engines work? Gas burns, releases heat, expands inside the cylinder, piston is displaces by expanding gas. Basic gas laws state that as temperature rises, volume increases. So, burning at a higher temperature means the piston is being displaced with greater force. What does that mean for Ethanol? It means Ethanol is not as potent as gasoline. So, for every liter of gasoline that is replaces by ethanol, a little power is lost.
Conclusion- increasing octane beyond what an engine requires can LOWER horsepower.
all the gas stations along 65th street are all using E10 gas right now. since you met up with C230_05 near there i assume ur around there lol
Im in the interior of Bay Ridge a bit more, but I tend to go to the gas stations on 4th Ave in the 90's streets.
Conclusion- increasing octane beyond what an engine requires can LOWER horsepower.
I first talked to some collegues and they have said that many other types of cars (e.g. SRT-4s, Subarus, Lexus) are having the same problem. People in their forums are suspecting that it may be due to the E10 ethanol gasoline (10% ethanol, 90% gas). I brought my car in to the dealership and says that a few people have also been complaining and the dealer too suspects that it is caused by E10 gasoline which has recently been distributed. I've searched the forum and couldn't find anything similar (I apologize if there is). I guess I'm wondering if anyone else has seen this issue?. I live in the Northeast which may be adding to my problem due to the weather.
I recently got my car back from the dealer on tuesday, it was in the shop for 2 days.
Here's what I remember the service order saying (I can post it if anyone needs it):
Checked Fuel Pressure - OK
Checked Vaccum Pressure - OK
Checked Started - OK
Replaced all Spark Plugs
I also thought my car may have had a bad tank of gas. After the dealer, I also went to my regular gas station (they are E10) and put in 93 as well as my typical Mobil Fuel System Cleaner.
The car is running much better and will not stall on cold starts.
On another note, I did one thing this morning (may be a fluke). I turned my key to the ON position but did not attempt to START the engine for ~5 seconds (I'm guessing this gets the fuel pumps going). At which time, I attempted to start the engine and it turned right over without a problem.
However it was not helping me last week when I was having the stalling issues with the car.
However it was not helping me last week when I was having the stalling issues with the car.
And my wife and I normally do this as well while we wait for the seat to get to position. Turn key to on and seat starts to move tro preset position, we are both short so it only goes so far and we have to then push the button for the remaining inch for me and few inches for her. Then start, she fires up every time and has never stumbled.
For my 190E if I use Mobil/Exxon my idle is silky smooth, if I use other gas it is a little more lumpy. Not bad but a noticeable diference.
-only happens to people in colder climates
-goes away after engine warms up
What I cannot fit, but is probably the key:
-doesn't happen if the key is in the "on" possition for a time before starting
Anyone know what exactly happens while the key is "on" but the engine is at rest?



